- 11,511
- United States
I just had a quick go at using some of those tips and your right, those picture aren't as good as they could be.
Here are some of the results:
Just found this effect and thought I'd upload a pic
👍👍👍 i really like
Toxic Dose Crew Photo Forum
- Thread starter raceorama123432
- 146 comments
- 5,204 views
👍👍👍 i really like
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
i belive that these are my best photos so far!
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
- 6,598
- United Kingdom
- MSTER232
- PS3 =/= Xbox 360
Do you try panning Mode 3 for your shots? It allows you to blur the background but keep the car in focus making the car look like it's going fast. I know this picture has nothing to do with TDC or drifting, but have a look at the blur effects:
But if you have the following situation where the car isn't going too fast anyway then don't worry:
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
how do you change the panning mode?
- 2,386
- UK
- spikeyhairdude
This car looks like it came out of borderlands. It looks so cool. with the almost 2d
- 4,186
- Donington Park
- ROB__MK2
Thanks Spikey
Press triangle to get camera menu. Shutter speed 60, panning mode 3 and AE lock on
My pictures from last night:
marbels pictures from last night:
My tip for you marbel. Use what I said above to gamerone
Last edited:
- 947
- Ural
- madmosskill
This is very cool 👍
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
hope you like them because it took me a while choosing the best ones out of 25
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
yes but that would take a considerable amount of time and the chances of two cars drifting through a tight gap, not hitting anything, and not overshadowing other cars with their smoke, and looking good all at the same time it would be faster to try to solve 5 rubixcubes with your feet, blindfolded,and skateboarding at the same time.
- 6,598
- United Kingdom
- MSTER232
- PS3 =/= Xbox 360
.
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
oh thats why he has that 700 hp supra vid with the team colours...
- 6,598
- United Kingdom
- MSTER232
- PS3 =/= Xbox 360
That video was uploaded while I was still in the team. I haven't repainted the supra yet.
- 4,186
- Donington Park
- ROB__MK2
My Favorite Ten from last night:
- 3,159
- Livingston, Sco
- BkS-y0
- APX BkS
Right, I think I've sat back for long enough and you really need help taking photos so this is going to be long, but bear with me as I can't contain my rage for my longer. 
Your angles are repetitive and after a while that gets boring. Decent shots are usually taken between 55-250mm. If you back away from the car a fair bit, you can zoom in 500mm and get very nice long lens shots.
Stop using 1/8000th shutter speed. The only real time you should use it, is in phototravel or when taking static photos. If your going to use Panning mode 1 at least use it effectively. Panning mode 1 is all about point of focus. To get a sense of speed with that mode you really have to be zoomed in at 300-500mm and not be going any faster than 110MPH.
If you look at your photos, you'll notice some of them are quite under-exposed and others are over-exposed. You need to mess around with the exposure setting (EV) to get a different feel for each.
An important part of taking photos is using the rule of thirds. just imagine your photos split up into 9 equal squares. Now imagine a thick outline in the middle square which connects them all, like this:
Where the red dots are highlighted, your main subject should be positioned somewhere near them. This is how you create an effective photo because the viewers eyes are immediately drawn to the corner where the subject is. The photo will also be balanced with there being 1/3 of background being shown.
You should be taking photos at 1/60th shutter speed and using Panning mode 3 as this produces the best results for photos. You can access which panning mode to use by pressing triangle to bring up the camera options menu.
Another fundamental element of taking photos is depth of field and focus. I briefly covered this in paragraphs 2 and 3, however I didn't cover aperture.
Aperture is basically lens blur. I controls what is in focus and what is not.
Aperture is all about experimentation. You need to find a setting that suits your style of shooting. Personally I use 32f for high speed shots to create a sense of speed along with panning mode 3. I also use 4.5 or 7.5 to create a realistic feel for photos when using panning mode 1.
Use lighting for creating mood. The way light is dispersed in a photo is what creates the atmosphere. Things like the colours in the background, the colour of the cars and the surroundings is what makes a photo effective or not.
For instance, if you go to Monza you'll see there is a lot of green. However there are banners with yellow and the red & white rumble strips. These things even up the photo, but it's the colour of the car that will either make use of the surroundings or not. Strong bold colours are normally the best types of photos to shoot there, like yellow, sky blue, red, pink. But not green!
You need to create a contrast between the car and the environment it's it.
Once you put all these things together you get a wonderful photo and something to be proud of.
A wise photographer once said to me - "Your first 1000 photos are your worst"
And he was right. If you look at my photos now, compared to where they were when I first started, my photos are now miles better, but it's because I experimented with different situations, and found something that suited my style. It's takes practice, time & patience to get good.
Don't take this the wrong way, I'm just trying to help you out here, but if you focus on these things your photos will become better.
When you finally get the hang of things, you can then edit them and make them "pop" even more. But don't go with a tri-tone colour posterized effect like you did a couple of pages back. It's just horrible. Read tutorials on how to effectively create warm/cold tones. How to adjust channels using curves, etc.
I really do hope this helps. 👍
Your angles are repetitive and after a while that gets boring. Decent shots are usually taken between 55-250mm. If you back away from the car a fair bit, you can zoom in 500mm and get very nice long lens shots.
Stop using 1/8000th shutter speed. The only real time you should use it, is in phototravel or when taking static photos. If your going to use Panning mode 1 at least use it effectively. Panning mode 1 is all about point of focus. To get a sense of speed with that mode you really have to be zoomed in at 300-500mm and not be going any faster than 110MPH.
If you look at your photos, you'll notice some of them are quite under-exposed and others are over-exposed. You need to mess around with the exposure setting (EV) to get a different feel for each.
An important part of taking photos is using the rule of thirds. just imagine your photos split up into 9 equal squares. Now imagine a thick outline in the middle square which connects them all, like this:
Where the red dots are highlighted, your main subject should be positioned somewhere near them. This is how you create an effective photo because the viewers eyes are immediately drawn to the corner where the subject is. The photo will also be balanced with there being 1/3 of background being shown.
You should be taking photos at 1/60th shutter speed and using Panning mode 3 as this produces the best results for photos. You can access which panning mode to use by pressing triangle to bring up the camera options menu.
Another fundamental element of taking photos is depth of field and focus. I briefly covered this in paragraphs 2 and 3, however I didn't cover aperture.
Aperture is basically lens blur. I controls what is in focus and what is not.
Aperture is all about experimentation. You need to find a setting that suits your style of shooting. Personally I use 32f for high speed shots to create a sense of speed along with panning mode 3. I also use 4.5 or 7.5 to create a realistic feel for photos when using panning mode 1.
Use lighting for creating mood. The way light is dispersed in a photo is what creates the atmosphere. Things like the colours in the background, the colour of the cars and the surroundings is what makes a photo effective or not.
For instance, if you go to Monza you'll see there is a lot of green. However there are banners with yellow and the red & white rumble strips. These things even up the photo, but it's the colour of the car that will either make use of the surroundings or not. Strong bold colours are normally the best types of photos to shoot there, like yellow, sky blue, red, pink. But not green!
You need to create a contrast between the car and the environment it's it.
Once you put all these things together you get a wonderful photo and something to be proud of.
A wise photographer once said to me - "Your first 1000 photos are your worst"
And he was right. If you look at my photos now, compared to where they were when I first started, my photos are now miles better, but it's because I experimented with different situations, and found something that suited my style. It's takes practice, time & patience to get good.
Don't take this the wrong way, I'm just trying to help you out here, but if you focus on these things your photos will become better.
When you finally get the hang of things, you can then edit them and make them "pop" even more. But don't go with a tri-tone colour posterized effect like you did a couple of pages back. It's just horrible. Read tutorials on how to effectively create warm/cold tones. How to adjust channels using curves, etc.
I really do hope this helps. 👍
.
- 4,186
- Donington Park
- ROB__MK2
Yeah, my pictures do seem to be in the same place, now you look at it.
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
Yeah, my pictures do seem to be in the same place, now you look at it.
sorry to point this out but you seem to focus on the lower right corner mostly, though i know i have problems with my photo's too. such as way over exposing the photo, or not having enough light...
- 184
- cambridge
- gamerone00
boys drift cars, MEN drift samba buses!
