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  • Thread starter raif330
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raif330
Hi
I have problem driving withaut TRS.
I try so hard. I have problems when I play without TRS. I play with TRS 2 all the time although I see a lot of players playing TRS 0 on YouTube. Can anyone give me some tips? Thank you in advance.
 
Hi
I have problem driving withaut TRS.
I try so hard. I have problems when I play without TRS. I play with TRS 2 all the time although I see a lot of players playing TRS 0 on YouTube. Can anyone give me some tips? Thank you in advance.

Excuse me, I think you say TCS? meaning "Traction Control System".

and only one thing you can do is "Throttle Control Training"
 
Hi
I have problem driving withaut TRS.
I try so hard. I have problems when I play without TRS. I play with TRS 2 all the time although I see a lot of players playing TRS 0 on YouTube. Can anyone give me some tips? Thank you in advance.
First thing, do you have pedals or a controller? With pedals it's much easier to manage your throttle.
 
Bits of tips: Set the TCS 1 on launch, then turn back to 0 on MFD once reaches second gear.

GTS for some reason has a not so good low speed tire physics so it acts like a launch control and accelerates much faster than full TCS 0.
 
Hi
I have problem driving withaut TRS.
I try so hard. I have problems when I play without TRS. I play with TRS 2 all the time although I see a lot of players playing TRS 0 on YouTube. Can anyone give me some tips? Thank you in advance.

First thing, do you have pedals or a controller? With pedals it's much easier to manage your throttle.

I play with a controller. It can be challenging to drive without TCS, but practice squeezing the throttle slowly. Also, many corners are faster if you use 1 gear higher than the game suggests. So, if the game say "gear 1" use 2.

I also move the brake balance toward the front so that the rear tires do not heat as much on corner entry, because the engine is applying engine braking to the tires as well as regular braking force. I run almost all my mid engine cars with the brake at -5 (full forward).

practice practice.
 
I play with a controller. It can be challenging to drive without TCS, but practice squeezing the throttle slowly. Also, many corners are faster if you use 1 gear higher than the game suggests. So, if the game say "gear 1" use 2.

I also move the brake balance toward the front so that the rear tires do not heat as much on corner entry, because the engine is applying engine braking to the tires as well as regular braking force. I run almost all my mid engine cars with the brake at -5 (full forward).

practice practice.

I usually go 3 to the back.
2 to the front on the hybrid LMPs.

But... too much Red Dead Redemption going on. Maybe things have changed.
 
For my G29 and controller I'm about the same.

For most sub 700hp cars I can do TCS0.

For a relaxing time like on GT3 endurances, TCS1.

For LMPs TCS1 seems to be ok too. If I really 'click' with how a car drives, TCS0 works eg. the W08 and the two McLaren VGTs...

I rarely ever need to move to TCS2 unless there's some emergency.... eg. laps 25/30 position #1 and I'm on a full tank but 66% tyres and I just need to nurse the thing home... especially if I'm in a 911 of some sort.
 
I usually go 3 to the back.
2 to the front on the hybrid LMPs.

But... too much Red Dead Redemption going on. Maybe things have changed.

Try rear bias on the LMP cars for better hybrid recharge.

For OP try a low powered car on sports hard like an MR2 and no TCS they constantly want to step out but are more “catchable”, it’s actually good training for the race cars
 
My TCS 0 driving improved considerably when I realized how messy the throttle input is. It is even worse for me than what other people have described. At about 75% pedal angle, I have 50% throttle and then even before I press the pedal completely down, I reach 100% throttle.

That means, I have to stay at 50% until it's save to go 100.

This sucks but at least when I found that out reading in this forum, I understood why I had such problems with TCS 0 in the beginning even though I never had problems in other sims with that.
 
The only tip I can think of for driving without traction control is throttle control, and exiting corners in a higher gear depending on how the car is geared. For example, many Group 3s can safely use second gear out of corners. Don't bother paying attention to whatever gear the game is suggesting you. And make sure the car is pointed straight enough when exiting lower speed corners and avoid steering if you're spinning the wheels. However, it is a good idea to use one tick of traction control for standing starts to avoid wheelspin on launch, though you can safely turn it off in the MFD once you're through the first two or three gears. And many all wheel drive cars don't really need traction control badly because they have trouble spinning the tires anyway. I use a DS4 as I don't own a wheel.

Are there any specific cars you're having trouble driving without traction control or is it just a general thing?
 
Try rear bias on the LMP cars for better hybrid recharge.

For OP try a low powered car on sports hard like an MR2 and no TCS they constantly want to step out but are more “catchable”, it’s actually good training for the race cars

I’ll keep that in mind, but I tried. I used to play a LOT! And Gr.1 was my favorite group.
 
For each and every corner, each and every car has a different natural tendency to behave (or not) in a certain, most of the time, predictable manner.

Simply though oversteer occurs when the rear tyres lose adhesion before the front.

This can happen on corner entry, mid corner and corner exit how to manage these events you have to think where is it that your suffering from oversteer,

Corner entry.
Apex.
Corner exit.

There is another event that can cause oversteer which you will notice happening perhaps when taking to much kerb, and this is because of weight transfer - managing this is the same however.

How do you manage it?

  • Cornering speed.
  • Throttle.
  • Braking.
  • Steering inputs.
  • Weight transfer.
These are things that you control in GTS (unless settings are unlocked in which case it becomes a combination of setting tweaks and driving style).

Learning how to control oversteer will happen when your able to break down and diagnose whats causing it, but, until your running TCS at 0 your never going to learn the fine motor skills needed to control it. Through experience just like your brain knows to pull your hand away from a hot surface when you touch it, your hands and feet (obviously using a wheel) will instinctively react in the correct way, we learn through mistakes, turn it off and see it through, practice practice practice, and even if you eventually revert back to TCS being on you will find that you have found laptime because your training yourself to look for it.
 
I'm glad raif330 posted on this matter. It's been discussed before but the normal refrain seems to be practice, practice and more practice. The only thing wrong with that is if you are making mistakes and you don't know what you are doing incorrectly, all the practice in the world won't make any difference. I am having a very hard time learning how to drive without TCS on. But I have also found out sometimes you have to go slow to be fast. I am also looking forward to Tidgney's driving school series.

Is it also possible that wheel FFB settings can hinder the feel when the car is getting loose or not? That's one of my issues when trying to "catch" the car in time.

Keith.
 
Try rear bias on the LMP cars for better hybrid recharge.

Off topic, but how do you know it's recharging????

I usually go 3 to the back.
2 to the front on the hybrid LMPs.

But... too much Red Dead Redemption going on. Maybe things have changed.

I think it's more of a preference. Since I am on a controller, the throttle input is a bit more challenging (as noted in the thread). It's a trade off of rotation into the corner versus exit out of it.
 
Well, why in the world would they exclude this from the regular display? I have to say, I never noticed a degradation in recharge, but maybe the races haven't been long enough.

Maybe because some people would still complain there is too much "clutter" on the screen.
 
Well, why in the world would they exclude this from the regular display? I have to say, I never noticed a degradation in recharge, but maybe the races haven't been long enough.
Its not a degradation as such its more that different brake bias’s give you different amounts of recharge and thus more or less deployable energy.
 
Well, why in the world would they exclude this from the regular display? I have to say, I never noticed a degradation in recharge, but maybe the races haven't been long enough.

I understand your perspective and I agree with it... information should be consistent on bumper or chase or cockpit however the reality is we accept there are limitations... ie. I use bumper cam and I'm a better driver here... obviously I can place the car more accurately and my times go down.

BUT I prefer the realism of cockpit view and I know my race suffers but its more realistic. When we drive a car in real life we accept that we cant always accurately place the tyres.

Further in bumper we have a better rear vision mirror often versus no mirror at all in cockpit.

THe less said about chase cam the better.
 
After apex, your objective is to go full throttle asap.

If you go full throttle right after apex, three things can happen:
A- too much oversteer
B- too much understeer
C- perfect

obviously,
if 'perfect' then no worries.
if not, then there is a preliminary step before you can go full throttle.

In case of understeer (B),
simply control throttle to avoid too much understeer,
- if too much throttle -> understeer again, you will run wide
- if too little, your losing time.

In case of oversteer (C),
You must balance the car first, and that is your 1st priority; make it more parallel to the next straight.
If you have a parallel car but are still spinning, then also think about weight transfer and a smoother throttle progression.


This will not make you an alien, but you can work from there
 
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