Tuning exploits

  • Thread starter alainsenna
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Your too funny, that was my mistake, i.e when i found a good tune on car I would transfer all the same type of settings and ideas to most of my cars, now I tend to take into account the drive train, but my main grumble is the contradicting statements, some say this some say that works, I get different driving styles but grip is grip at the end of the day, I have been led to believe that higher suspension equals more grip. Also quite a lot of the tunes on gt planets tuning list, I find are quite rubbish and not that good in terms of feel,grip and most importantly lap times, more often than not there are a good base tune that I can work from, whats your thoughts on higher suspension equals more grip.
Say you have a car with a lot of power but no turn frustration station right? No mater what you seem to do it. Just keeps sliding or worse how do you stabilize said car try raising the rear suspension alot of people will tell you that doing so causes understeer not true
 
I have been curious about this as well
For instance, yesterday someone suggested negative front toe to improve steering and counter under steer
It worked but braking suffered,
Another trick l have had success with is buying both hard and soft race suspension setups, just to get the recommended spring rates, then using them to set the adjustable suspension, hard works well with race tires, and soft works with sport tires, while stock works for comfort tires
sway bars should be set softer when using stiff springs, and firmer when using soft springs,
the sway bar settings should be set after the springs, and opposite the spring settings,
A word of caution!!! Do not change from one suspension type to another while making adjustments! It will reset all your work when you return to the adjustable setup,
I use the far right 3rd setup to check spring rates, as l usually only have a race tire and a sport tire setup in the first two slots, and use the last 3rd one as a throwaway for testing changes,
Mid engine cars can be improved by adding ballast till you get 50/50 front/rear weight balance
For ride height l start at minimum setting on the adjustable suspension plus 20, so if minimum ride height is say 75 l set it at 95, that usually is 10 below the default setting with the adjustable suspension,


I am now starting at 10 above minimum ride height as a general rule,
Not sure if you're claiming negative front toe is an exploit or not.

If yes, negative front toe is by no means an exploit. Negative front toe is the standard way almost every car in real life is set up with, at least for the last 20-30 years.
 
Negative front toe is the standard way almost every car in real life is set up with, at least for the last 20-30 years.

Toe in is positive and that's the way most road going cars are set up, for straight line stability and safety. Race cars, different story.
 
Toe in is positive and that's the way most road going cars are set up, for straight line stability and safety. Race cars, different story.
My bad, I should have specified. You're totally correct. Toe in, which is positive, adds straight line stability, and is what most passanger cars come set with out of safety. Racecars, performance cars, and drift cars are another story though. A small amount of Toe Out (negative) can make the front end more responsive, more "pointy", and is basically the conventional way to set up a racecar.
 
Yep. I ran quite a bit of toe out on my Honda Autocrosser. Made it pretty tough to drive on the streets. Get into a regular car and I could practically drive no handed.
 
Thanks for all your helpful comments, I have tried adding Camber to some wayward cars, mainly ones where the back is a bit loose and unpredictable, such as Porches(still a little edgy but I suppose that' how they should be), I do think it definitely helps. I haven't been on much to do much testing, but I am looking forward to testing your advice out. Peace to all my fellow petrol heads, have a great Xmas and new year if I don't speak to you guys beforehand.
 
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