Tuning exploits

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jamsy
Hi,

I have embraced tuning for some time in GT6 mostly via copying peoples tunes from here but I am slightly confused by some areas and seek some guidance from my fellow GT players,there are so many theories out there, i do experiment myself and find that some works better on other cars than others, for example the M3 gtr, has ridiculously low spring rates and very high ARB settings, with no camber on mine and from testing relentlessly different setups, its clear this unrealistic setup is without doubt the best for the car.

1- the camber exploit seems to be widely acknowledged as existing within the game and I have embraced this i.e setting camber to 0 to provide more grip, but the majority of tunes listed on GT planet seem to use camber which confuses me slightly given this seems to be a quite widely known exploit.

2-the higher front end than rear exploit that people say gives the car more rotation

so the point of the thread is to help people like myself improve their setups, i know there is a tuning section but it is geared up to add and discuss specific tunes rather than the concept of tuning and known exploits which we know all racing games have, are there any more know over the above and whats your thoughts on the ones mentioned above, Also I know of the transmission flip, but again some people do it in different ways, it always begins the same, i.e move final gear slider, then top speed, then individual gears then final speed slider again, but even on this website there are different theories and recommendations, for example all the way to the left, all the way to the right, any feedback is greatly appreciated, thanks guys.
 
I have been curious about this as well
For instance, yesterday someone suggested negative front toe to improve steering and counter under steer
It worked but braking suffered,
Another trick l have had success with is buying both hard and soft race suspension setups, just to get the recommended spring rates, then using them to set the adjustable suspension, hard works well with race tires, and soft works with sport tires, while stock works for comfort tires
sway bars should be set softer when using stiff springs, and firmer when using soft springs,
the sway bar settings should be set after the springs, and opposite the spring settings,
A word of caution!!! Do not change from one suspension type to another while making adjustments! It will reset all your work when you return to the adjustable setup,
I use the far right 3rd setup to check spring rates, as l usually only have a race tire and a sport tire setup in the first two slots, and use the last 3rd one as a throwaway for testing changes,
Mid engine cars can be improved by adding ballast till you get 50/50 front/rear weight balance
For ride height l start at minimum setting on the adjustable suspension plus 20, so if minimum ride height is say 75 l set it at 95, that usually is 10 below the default setting with the adjustable suspension,


I am now starting at 10 above minimum ride height as a general rule,
 
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Hey Barra, great reply, thanks. Yes I use the neg front toe(not loads) and it makes the car turn in sharper and rotate better intially so I think your right there, the rear which is always set high stock, supposedly is better really low and again helps with under steer, although I haven't really tested this yet.

Suspension information is interesting, makes sense to get a good starting point from the stock and go from there, thanks i will start doing that, but yes harder for race tires without doubt, although i have some cars that only go well on really soft suspension its strange, maybe to do with a certain combination of settings.

The changing setting thing is a pain, thanks for tip, it also does it on other occasions, many times i have tuned online, went back online and bang, lost everything.

ballast thing i always use, but i learned only few weeks ago, not to have it more than 36% as it messes with the code and affects handling badly, so you can adjust to 50/50 but just have 36% or under, I don't know if this is true or not.

the gearbox is really strange, i get the whole flip concept,but there are slightly different ways, I have been told to start by moving final gear all way to left, all way to right, or 3/4 one way or the other,all from different people who are really quick that I have encountered online, and then there's all the tunes on here, GT Planet, a lot if not most don't use camber exploits and most others, which confuses me as there are some that I like you have tested and found to be true. its all rather contradicting, but I am still having fun learning. PEACE
 
I think some of the updates "fixed" tuning issues, or just changed how stuff works,
The transmission appears to be more realistic now, axle ratio effects launch,
4:11 rear feels like 4:11 gears, 3:23 feels like 3:23
I still am having a hard time with the LSA, not sure what it is supposed to be
A posi with different spring packs? A locker with different fly weights? Fluid coupling?
Any help with setting would be much appreciated
 
Ax
I think some of the updates "fixed" tuning issues, or just changed how stuff works,
The transmission appears to be more realistic now, axle ratio effects launch,
4:11 rear feels like 4:11 gears, 3:23 feels like 3:23
I still am having a hard time with the LSA, not sure what it is supposed to be
A posi with different spring packs? A locker with different fly weights? Fluid coupling?
Any help with setting would be much appreciated
Axle ratio?
 
For me, tuning is like a black art. It seems each car acts differently, and not just because they are different cars. The two wildest extremes I've found was a Mitsu FTO with 200kg weight at -50, and an Altezza Gita with 4 degrees of camber F/R. I've read the tuning guide and I understand the basics but don't seem to get the results I'd like.

That being said, I spent an hour or two tuning the trans on something ahwile back for the seasonal at Motegi, and picked up over 2 seconds a lap.
 
Hi Guys Thank for replies, could you maybe elaborate on your answers for people not as knowledgeable such as myself, what are theories and way of flipping transmission? Axle ?
 
Hi Dragon, great reply, thanks, are you saying the FTO was fastest with 200 kg added ?

200kg on the front minimized the pronounced wheelspin this car has, and made it feel more planted. I chalked this up to what I figure PD's not exactly correct theory of weight improving grip.
 
@Beginners weight improves grip, but only to an extent. There's a point where mechanical grip is improved without affecting much else, but simply tuning your suspension to let more weight sit toward the axle you want it to is probably easiest, but ballast can still help if you want a really specific handling profile.
 
I have always went for 50/50 weight split with MR drive train cars, is this best or sometime does a little extra back or front help ? Thanks. FF cars tend to be front wight biased anyways due to engine at front etc and I do sometimes add extra to get more traction, I find the RR and MR cars a little bit more tricky to get right, can some one post their transmission tuning setup advice please, thanks.
 
Also I see a lot of the quick guys advising , where possible, to set front down-force to maximum, and rear to none or very little to aid with turn in and rotation, I understand a lot of tuning setups are designed for different driving styles but I have no doubt that most of the quickest guys out there use this, a little lift off over-steer to get the nose turned in sharply seems to be the key advantage here, I also believe from personal tuning that this works and having rear down force doesn't seem to apply as much of its designed affect as you would hope.
 
For MR cars I generally use the general 6 speed transmission, but I mainly do touge, so it's tight corners, and you rarely get past 3rd gear.
 
For MR cars I generally use the general 6 speed transmission, but I mainly do touge, so it's tight corners, and you rarely get past 3rd gear.
Hi Kryption, Thanks for reply it is much appreciated, so you don't believe the transmission flip works or do you feel it just doesn't benefit you for the type of racing you do?
 
Hi Kryption, Thanks for reply it is much appreciated, so you don't believe the transmission flip works or do you feel it just doesn't benefit you for the type of racing you do?
It works for mainly top end I believe , I usually flip the trans if I'm dealing with a car like super gt, or on longer tracks also. It works like a charm with the f1 car, but no matter how you flip the trans you still have to pay attention to the little dyno, because if you make the gears too short or long , you'll for sure notice
 
Hi,

1- the camber exploit seems to be widely acknowledged as existing within the game and I have embraced this i.e setting camber to 0 to provide more grip, but the majority of tunes listed on GT planet seem to use camber which confuses me slightly given this seems to be a quite widely known exploit.

I can agree with most exploits you listed, but when it comes to camber, i would test it out on every tune you make, and see if you can gain any benefits. This subject was extensively tested (here and here) by others members, and some gained lap times while others lost. In my case, i use camber on all my cars, not because i think they add more grip, but because it makes the car more forgiving and better to drive. I normaly use 0.5 ~1.0 on the front and 1.0~1.5 at the back.

The transmission flip will make your lower gears longer, and that can be boring or slower with low pp cars. The good thing is, if you have a car that has a horrible tendency to oversteer when you drop to lower gears, it can become more stable with taller low gears.
 
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I can agree with most exploits you listed, but when it comes to camber, i would test it out on every tune you make, and see if you can gain any benefits. This subject was extensively tested (here and here) by others members, and some gained lap times while others lost. In my case, i use camber on all my cars, not because i think they add more grip, but because it makes the car more forgiving and better to drive. I normaly use 0.5 ~1.0 on the front and 1.0~1.5 at the back.

The transmission flip will make your lower gears longer, and that can be boring or slower with low pp cars. The good thing is, if you have a car that has a horrible tendency to oversteer when you drop to lower gears, it can become more stable with taller low gears.

Thanks Leo, great answer, I will maybe try messing with camber on some of the wilder MR cars, the transmission thing just confuses due to the number of different techniques of doing the flip etc.
 
I have found setting the final drive to its lowest position (2:50 - 3:00 all the way left) increases speed and power
I imagine it is due to lower driveshaft RPM at any given speed, so the driveshaft robs less HP, same as buying the carbon drive shaft, It works fine for rolling starts, but can hurt your launch from a dead stop, so there is a bit of a trade off
 
On the matter of MR cars, like yourself, I tend to put the car the closest possible to 50/50. I also raise the back 2cm's higher than the back, since the engine is there, and i noticed that on some cars that would help me cornering under acceleration. also normally use the alien set up of anti roll bars around 5~6 ,and the spring compression extension at 1~2 on racing cars and most MR/RR it has helped alot making them forgiving.
also the LSD deaccel setup is more inportant on them than any other type, in my opinion
 
As far as the Camber goes, alot of my friends utilized camber strictly for the look of it rather than for the purpose of stablizing or for over all tune setting etc. I use to knock on this idea until I got to try one of my friends camber happy car, and I was impressed with the way it handled. Initially, I thought it was going to show some side affects from such camber but it worked out nicely (he still hasn't shared his suspension setting for that car with me, even though he rarely plays gt6 anymore lol).
 
As far as the Camber goes, alot of my friends utilized camber strictly for the look of it rather than for the purpose of stablizing or for over all tune setting etc. I use to knock on this idea until I got to try one of my friends camber happy car, and I was impressed with the way it handled. Initially, I thought it was going to show some side affects from such camber but it worked out nicely (he still hasn't shared his suspension setting for that car with me, even though he rarely plays gt6 anymore lol).
Camber has a legit affect with drifting imo. I had stupid high suspension for a while because if it fixed one car, it has to make every other one better, right? :banghead: And setting my front camber at 9.0 and rear at 4.0 made it handle a lot better. I cringe at how bad my tuning used to be. I only stopped using ASM and TCS like 5 months ago for racing. I used to drift with ASM ffs!
 
Camber has a legit affect with drifting imo. I had stupid high suspension for a while because if it fixed one car, it has to make every other one better, right? :banghead: And setting my front camber at 9.0 and rear at 4.0 made it handle a lot better. I cringe at how bad my tuning used to be. I only stopped using ASM and TCS like 5 months ago for racing. I used to drift with ASM ffs!
Your too funny, that was my mistake, i.e when i found a good tune on car I would transfer all the same type of settings and ideas to most of my cars, now I tend to take into account the drive train, but my main grumble is the contradicting statements, some say this some say that works, I get different driving styles but grip is grip at the end of the day, I have been led to believe that higher suspension equals more grip. Also quite a lot of the tunes on gt planets tuning list, I find are quite rubbish and not that good in terms of feel,grip and most importantly lap times, more often than not there are a good base tune that I can work from, whats your thoughts on higher suspension equals more grip.
 
Camber has a legit affect with drifting imo. I had stupid high suspension for a while because if it fixed one car, it has to make every other one better, right? :banghead: And setting my front camber at 9.0 and rear at 4.0 made it handle a lot better. I cringe at how bad my tuning used to be. I only stopped using ASM and TCS like 5 months ago for racing. I used to drift with ASM ffs!

Your too funny, I will try messing about with camber again, I also find that a lot of the tunes on GT planets tuning list are not that great, I tend to use them as a base tune to be honest, but its rare that I try a tune and go it is so good that I don't tweak it, and i get driving styles etc, and to prove my point regarding contradictions, Barracuda moves final drive all the way to the left and some advise move all the way to the right. I have enjoyed the game immensely but given the delay to GT Sport, I know who would have seen that coming lol, I will have another go at tuning some cars rather than driving the same cars all the time, which is my pet hate in the game, people always going their fastest cars to win, as long as I am racing side by side or bumper to bumper for a good bit of the race I don't care where I come, I hope GT Sport has a better handicap system as some cars, and we all know them, at certain pp destroy all others, but hey enough about that , don't want to start wining and going off topic.
 
Your too funny, that was my mistake, i.e when i found a good tune on car I would transfer all the same type of settings and ideas to most of my cars, now I tend to take into account the drive train, but my main grumble is the contradicting statements, some say this some say that works, I get different driving styles but grip is grip at the end of the day, I have been led to believe that higher suspension equals more grip. Also quite a lot of the tunes on gt planets tuning list, I find are quite rubbish and not that good in terms of feel,grip and most importantly lap times, more often than not there are a good base tune that I can work from, whats your thoughts on higher suspension equals more grip.
It depends on the tyres and ride height. Weight distribution must be taken into account too. I usually set my springs midway while taking dampers and weight distribution. There is no god tune that works for all cars. Every car has different weight over each axle, different width, power, torque, wheelbase, etc. Tuning is a pain in the ass usually and takes hours to get exactly right. I still can't tune MR cars. I know all the theory and stuff but it just doesn't work out for me. I'm definitely going to look into what the guy a few posts ahead said though. Over rotation is my pet peeve. And I'm getting a T150 for christmas so I'll not be able to wing tunes as much.

A lot of tuning is preference. Some people keep ABS off, others use it at 1 or above. People get into tuning for their racing style and it doesn't work for everyone. I can't stand some people's tunes because I like cars that behave and are smooth, but they use -2 sens and prefer what would be twitchy for me. Camber is less about grip and more about rotation when I've messed with it. Tuning is truly a dark art, akin to the alchemy of olde.
 
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As far as the Camber goes, alot of my friends utilized camber strictly for the look of it rather than for the purpose of stablizing or for over all tune setting etc. I use to knock on this idea until I got to try one of my friends camber happy car, and I was impressed with the way it handled. Initially, I thought it was going to show some side affects from such camber but it worked out nicely (he still hasn't shared his suspension setting for that car with me, even though he rarely plays gt6 anymore lol).
Hey Numb, y
 
I meant 2cm's higher than the front, since most whight shift would be at the back. this of course, when the car is at 49/51 and above.

and has @Death2508 SAid, camber afects rotation. but the more rotation the easier is to loose gip. so you're both right, I guess. I normally use the toe angle to add grip and stability
 
Camber has a legit affect with drifting imo. I had stupid high suspension for a while because if it fixed one car, it has to make every other one better, right? :banghead: And setting my front camber at 9.0 and rear at 4.0 made it handle a lot better. I cringe at how bad my tuning used to be. I only stopped using ASM and TCS like 5 months ago for racing. I used to drift with ASM ffs!

I utilize traction control along with gripper tires for some of my beefier vehicles. If I am able to handle such cars alot better with those features on, I won't hesitate to use them unless the room states otherwise (or if it's regulated event etc.). Ofcourse when it comes to drifting, I turn everything off (some of my Touge tuned vehicles do have at least traction control at 1 because they are grip/drift oriented to get the best of both worlds).
 
Your too funny, that was my mistake, i.e when i found a good tune on car I would transfer all the same type of settings and ideas to most of my cars, now I tend to take into account the drive train, but my main grumble is the contradicting statements, some say this some say that works, I get different driving styles but grip is grip at the end of the day, I have been led to believe that higher suspension equals more grip. Also quite a lot of the tunes on gt planets tuning list, I find are quite rubbish and not that good in terms of feel,grip and most importantly lap times, more often than not there are a good base tune that I can work from, whats your thoughts on higher suspension equals more grip.

Speaking of using same settings for different vehicles... I own at least 3 drift vehicles that has exact same suspension settings. Luckily, these vehicles were able to be adjusted exactly the same. Infact, I input similar ratio of suspension setting for few other cars (because they wernt able to habe exact same configuration) and I ended up leaving them like that because I enjoyed how it handled. As long as I am comfortable with the handling, I see nothing wrong in doing so.
 
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