Tyre choice for drifting
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Der Meister
(Banned)
- 212
I found cars understeer too much to start with on N1 tyres and make drifting too hard, try S1 on the back and S3 on the front, i did this today for some fun with an Amuse S2000 R1 fully tuned and was great around Tsukuba, holds the line well while the back kicks out and you can still set sub 1:00.000 times while drifting every corner!
I'm not talking 10 degree drift either, im talking FULL SIDEWAYS KICK A** DRIFT!!!
I'm not talking 10 degree drift either, im talking FULL SIDEWAYS KICK A** DRIFT!!!
By experiencing many drift situations... the overall best tires for Drifting would be S2's... BUT if you drift for the show to do some crazy*** manoeuvres and enjoy your replays... N type tires are ideal... but (if ur like me) and you drift to race and get the best time trial for every track that you drift on... S2 is my choice !!!! 👍
- 3,124
- Bradopoly
I stick with N2's, the only time I change is depending on the power level of the car. 👍
N2's all the way.
but to be honest when i learned (re-learned since GT4 physics was a tad more drastic than 3) on was Soft racing on the front, Hard Racing on the backs. I liked drifting at 100mph+ back then. This was the best setup for that type of drifting I was doing, but I settled down to N2's and started drifting the correct way (och hope I didn't touch any nerves). For me I can be drifting my 500hp+ JGTC RX7 or my less than 200HP AE86 I still use N2's. I've got N and I'm not going back..
I don't want to start a "what's drifting" war. But, Slide? What you want is the tires to start spining out on you so when the back end of your car start to whip out on you start counter stearing so you cars drifts into the direction the turn is turning too, maintaining the counter stear and tire spin is what is the hard part.
Since N2's don't have a lot of grip, when you gas it the tires start to slip (spining out). To initate a drift, You want to overstear the car so that you turn deeper into the turn then what is normally needed, the counter stearing keeps you from totally goofing up the turn or fish tailing.
So turn and throtle the car fully into the turn so your tires starts to spin and you start to overstear, what you want now is to counter the overstear so; you counter-stear the car so you wont eat wall/dirt but unlike in grip racing, you don't want the car to straigten back out you want the cars in the same overstear position/angle (sideways) but through the entire turn, this is where the spining of the tires come in, since your tires are stilling peeling (spining) you basicly have to fight the car from gaining back the traction, if you do regain the traction the car will automatical wants to go in that direction, and since the wheels are pointing the opposite direction than the turn you will hit go off in that direction which is usually off the course, or you will to try to compensate and snap back the car to go in the right direction but it usually turn into a spin out. Maintaing that wheel spin and counter stear is the hard part, getting the car into a drift is easy.
There are different ways to get a car into an over-stearing solution feinting is usually the prefered way of doing it. You Turn the wheel into the opposite direction of the turn for a few moments (so your car will be heading off course) then snap it back into the direction you want (and I usually fully throtle the turn also so I get more angle) before you get off course (this is all timing, and every turn is different) this should cause your car to overstear, Now what that huge paragrah I type out above this comes into play.
I mean, power sliding (hense when you typed "Slide" it kinda made me wonder " a car through a turn with full counter stearing on is technically a drift, but isn't the way it's usually done in this sport.
but to be honest when i learned (re-learned since GT4 physics was a tad more drastic than 3) on was Soft racing on the front, Hard Racing on the backs. I liked drifting at 100mph+ back then. This was the best setup for that type of drifting I was doing, but I settled down to N2's and started drifting the correct way (och hope I didn't touch any nerves). For me I can be drifting my 500hp+ JGTC RX7 or my less than 200HP AE86 I still use N2's. I've got N and I'm not going back..
I don't want to start a "what's drifting" war. But, Slide? What you want is the tires to start spining out on you so when the back end of your car start to whip out on you start counter stearing so you cars drifts into the direction the turn is turning too, maintaining the counter stear and tire spin is what is the hard part.
Since N2's don't have a lot of grip, when you gas it the tires start to slip (spining out). To initate a drift, You want to overstear the car so that you turn deeper into the turn then what is normally needed, the counter stearing keeps you from totally goofing up the turn or fish tailing.
So turn and throtle the car fully into the turn so your tires starts to spin and you start to overstear, what you want now is to counter the overstear so; you counter-stear the car so you wont eat wall/dirt but unlike in grip racing, you don't want the car to straigten back out you want the cars in the same overstear position/angle (sideways) but through the entire turn, this is where the spining of the tires come in, since your tires are stilling peeling (spining) you basicly have to fight the car from gaining back the traction, if you do regain the traction the car will automatical wants to go in that direction, and since the wheels are pointing the opposite direction than the turn you will hit go off in that direction which is usually off the course, or you will to try to compensate and snap back the car to go in the right direction but it usually turn into a spin out. Maintaing that wheel spin and counter stear is the hard part, getting the car into a drift is easy.
There are different ways to get a car into an over-stearing solution feinting is usually the prefered way of doing it. You Turn the wheel into the opposite direction of the turn for a few moments (so your car will be heading off course) then snap it back into the direction you want (and I usually fully throtle the turn also so I get more angle) before you get off course (this is all timing, and every turn is different) this should cause your car to overstear, Now what that huge paragrah I type out above this comes into play.
I mean, power sliding (hense when you typed "Slide" it kinda made me wonder " a car through a turn with full counter stearing on is technically a drift, but isn't the way it's usually done in this sport.
- 661
for me personally n3 is the way to go
n2 is good to learn...
I find that the tires don't push forwards enough while in a drift unless on n3....
to me when I see n1 and n2 drift i just see cars sliding...not pushing through a corner like with n3....
And I think that drifting is not merely losing traction, but rather pushing through corners hard while being able to move the car with the acclerator. I find that there is a lack of push in n2 and n1 compound tires.
Besides...N3 is the fastests tire that produces faster drifts....and technically I think it is a lot harder to master then walmart brand comfort and econ tires. Its like N3 tires are sportier tires like neova or something, and then the N2 tire is like your all season tire. But n2 is still great...N3 is just the next level.
N1-n2= power oversteer drifting
n3= technical drifting can't just power over to drift.
n2 is good to learn...
I find that the tires don't push forwards enough while in a drift unless on n3....
to me when I see n1 and n2 drift i just see cars sliding...not pushing through a corner like with n3....
And I think that drifting is not merely losing traction, but rather pushing through corners hard while being able to move the car with the acclerator. I find that there is a lack of push in n2 and n1 compound tires.
Besides...N3 is the fastests tire that produces faster drifts....and technically I think it is a lot harder to master then walmart brand comfort and econ tires. Its like N3 tires are sportier tires like neova or something, and then the N2 tire is like your all season tire. But n2 is still great...N3 is just the next level.
N1-n2= power oversteer drifting
n3= technical drifting can't just power over to drift.
- 939
- Home
- The_Ske
- PzR Ske
That's just down to a little bit of throttle control, obviously you haven't seen THAT much
That being said, I do find myself using softer compounds when I'm on my DFP for some reason... the throttle response is quite different from the DF, and I don't seem to get the same level of control as with the DF. It's weird, but the more I use the DFP, the more numb and digital I think it feels.I view N3s as the best solution for control... the slippier it gets, the more potential for good looking drifts, but the more careful you have to be with your inputs and entry speeds. N2 is a good all-rounder cause it offers both some of the safety net of N3s and some of the slippiness of N1s.
In the end, I think it's very much down to which tire fits the car best.. some cars can deal with N1s, but others need to be "tamed" with stickier rubber (old Z28 is a good example). People that are "come from" grip racing will possibly prefer N3s while old rally fans like me will possibly enjoy N1s more. I still think learning all 3 types is the best, you might learn a bit from using a different compound now and then.
- 1,382
- New Jersey
S2's (stock tires)
So far most of my drift cars are in the 450 hp range and are 4wd and they seem to work just fine. They provide also a nice grip/drift blend so i can drift when i want and grip when i want
So far most of my drift cars are in the 450 hp range and are 4wd and they seem to work just fine. They provide also a nice grip/drift blend so i can drift when i want and grip when i want
- 85
Uh, as a real drifter, I can tell you that my friends and I definitely don't do it for cost efficiency. Unless you're a rich bastard and have a 240 with an SR or RB in it, you need less traction in the rear. Drifting at any speed over, say, 50 miles per hour is scary as ****, and those are the only speeds when you really need decent traction in the rear.
I drift with radials in the front and slicks in the rear, practically no tread. Once the front tires are worn down enough, I switch those to the rear and buy two new radials for the front.
Maybe it's different for drifters in different areas of the world, but that's how we roll
i've bin Drifting for about 5 months now(Drifting a real car) and i've learned
that at any speeds you want grip,no grip means no controll of the Drift,but not to get off topic...
i use a 240sx hatchback in GT4 with about 400Hp and i use sports hard tires
when i 1st got GT4 i could'nt use these tires but then i got used to them:tup:
- 1,508
- StReeTz166
Yea, generally I use a grippier tire in the front and (N1's) less grippy tire in the rear. This allows you to direct your drifts while really getting the ass-end of the car to break loose.
Edit: Also it's a good idea not to fully modify your car, 250-400hp (Lighter Car --> Heavier Car). You don't want to go crazy and just plain blow the tires off the car because you have to remember you are starting with virtually no grip to being with (N1,N2,N3).
Edit: Also it's a good idea not to fully modify your car, 250-400hp (Lighter Car --> Heavier Car). You don't want to go crazy and just plain blow the tires off the car because you have to remember you are starting with virtually no grip to being with (N1,N2,N3).
- 35
- isocuda, GTP_isocuda
Yeah if you wanna just drift and get the sideways feel, if you have won or unlocked the [D1GP Falken BP RX-7] take that out onto a comfertable course, Grand valley reverse works well, N2's for starters, and obviously cancel the traction control, this car seeeing as its designed for it, can, once you get used to it, slide around every corner with impressive angles. It has a smooth break away and no snap-back. (My real life miata has vicious snap back coming out of a drift that can kill you), but throttle control is key, if its wrong youll spin out slide out,but i mention all this to get used to was proper show drifting is, i don't drift when im racing, but pratice going wide holding the back tires right on the edge of the track, and then the inside with the inner front wheel right on the white line, then try drifting directly on/in "the groove" that almost every track has. once you get used to this then switch up the tires and play around, you'll learn what things you like and don't like, now after you get this all down, go and grab your favorite or preffered car you want to tune from stock get all the parts you need, and 300-350 HP is just the right amount of power you need (Generally). so you know what a properly tuned machine can do, now you'll have to take a stocker and figure out how to gain similar performance.
everybodies setup is unque to there driving skill and reaction times. So trail and error, with some logic is what youll need to do.
But as general advice:
50/50 balance cars like miata's are snappy, FR slightly unbalanced is best.
Stiffen as much as you can.
Keep the rear suspension soft and rolly, and leave the front the way you would normally tune it for racing.
300-350 horses
No traction control, brake assist, or any eletronic driving aids
auto's ok for racing in the game, but don't use it in drifting, the computer lets the rpms drop too much with out downshifting when your sliding around
Weight Transfer has alot to do with it, you have to shift from front to back to get the right line, but thats for you to figure out, seeing as the way i drive might not be for you...........
have fun
everybodies setup is unque to there driving skill and reaction times. So trail and error, with some logic is what youll need to do.
But as general advice:
50/50 balance cars like miata's are snappy, FR slightly unbalanced is best.
Stiffen as much as you can.
Keep the rear suspension soft and rolly, and leave the front the way you would normally tune it for racing.
300-350 horses
No traction control, brake assist, or any eletronic driving aids
auto's ok for racing in the game, but don't use it in drifting, the computer lets the rpms drop too much with out downshifting when your sliding around
Weight Transfer has alot to do with it, you have to shift from front to back to get the right line, but thats for you to figure out, seeing as the way i drive might not be for you...........
have fun
peeweegary
(Banned)
- 1,030
- GTP_peeweegary, peeweegary
N2s most of the time
- 10,544
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
Because you are practicing bad habits. Using the same tires will give you more traction so you can get more speed coming up to a section, you will sustain more speed though the drift, and your exit speeds will be higher due to higher speeds. In tandem if you use N3/N2 tires and the other guy has N3's then he will pull a lot of space on you while drifting if he leads, or if he chases you, he will be able to get closer to you and put more pressure on you because of it. Also this will look good to the judges(the guy using N3 all around). Not to mention he will have more smoke, and will be able to adjust his line easier than you since he has more overall traction in the rear.
AOS-
Premium
- 28,788
- 'Sauga, ON
To correct on that...
I use N3's on AWDs because I tend to need to use more power thus the car yaws more, so i need grippier tires to slow it down a bit.
N2's, currently, I don't like becasue I worry more about my drift entry rather than speed. Meaning I tend to go fast into a corner, so N2's will just amplify my failure.
N3's on an Aston Martin =
(08.28.07)I see a lot of Non N Tire users, Maybe I will tr it out myself.
y
- 45
- SlideFreak
I use n2's i do not stagger tires and i kind of look down upon people that do.
