Walter's jalopies, '07 Jag XJ8 L and '99 Miata

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wfooshee

Rather ride my FJR
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Oil changes done on all three vehicles, the two cars and the FJR1300. I used full synthetic, 4.5 or 5 quarts each for the bike and the Miata, and 7.5 for the Jag. I bought a 12-quart box, which is a bag in the box with a dispenser spout (and a lot cheaper than 12 1-quart bottles,) for the cars, and a 1-gallon bottle plus a loose quart for the bike, so 4.25 gallons altogether. Three filters, and my do-it-yourself oil change times 3 still ran nearly 140 dollars!

Ever since I've had the Miata, I've fought the oil filter when changing it. It's VERY hard to reach, located behind a brace supporting the intake manifold. You can get the filter out, but some of that is from above, and some from underneath, so it's a royal pain in the hind quarters!

When I replaced the alternator some time back, I found that the lower bolt for the alternator cannot be removed with that intake manifold brace in place; it has to come out to change the alternator! Turns out, it's only 3 14-mm bolts, two up top and one underneath, EZ-Peasey! While it was out as I was changing the alternator, I looked up and said to myself, "Hey, look! there's the oil filter! Right THERE!!!"

Remembering that this time, I removed that brace, and the filter was as easy to change as any I've ever done!

The same cannot be said for the Jaguar. This is only the second change since I bought the car December '21, as it's only had 5000 miles in all that time. I did not change the filter the first time because I couldn't get it spun off. Well, it had to come off this time, and none of my filter wrenches would do it. I wasn't going to punch it with a screwdriver and try that as a handle, because the last time I did that on whatever car that was, I simply ripped the case off of the filter. I ran down and got one of those rubber strap wrenches and had at it. The filter case began to crush, which was not encouraging, but it finally moved. Obviously the prior idiot wrenched the filter on, for which I'd like to severely punish him. New filter reinstalled, CORRECTLY, just hand tightened maybe a quarter turn after the gasket touches.

Oh, yeah... one other additional step for the Jag oil change: it has an underbody panel for aero under the engine bay, and that has to come out. Seven 10mm bolts, but you have to crawl to three places under the car to reach them all.

Oh, yeah... not a single "unable to set parking brake" or "cruise control not available" fault since the battery change mentioned in #57! Volts are apparently important!
 
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wfooshee

Rather ride my FJR
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Something I've discovered about the Jaguar during my time with it.

The rearview mirror is electrochromic, like many cars these day. That is, it darkens itself when it detects bright headlights behind you and it's dark outside. No big deal by itself, as that's quite common, almost a requirement any more for a luxury sedan. But the side mirrors are also electrochromic, and behave the same as the interior mirror, so headlights in the side mirrors are not blinding! That's a very nice touch!

EDIT: Another feature I knew about from the driver's seat, but just discovered applied to all positions. The windows for all four doors are auto-down and auto-up. Just push the switch fully and let go, the window opens fully and closes fully. I knew from day one that this worked from the driver's switches, but I've just discovered that it works at each door's switch as well, the front passenger and both back doors are auto-down and auto-up.

The sunroof is the same, auto-open and auto-close, you don't have to hold the switch, and that applies for both sliding and tilting.
 
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Famine

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Rule 12
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But the side mirrors are also electrochromic, and behave the same as the interior mirror, so headlights in the side mirrors are not blinding! That's a very nice touch!
And very expensive to replace when a van takes one of them off :lol:

It wasn't mine, but my dad experienced it with his XJ6, many years ago.
 

wfooshee

Rather ride my FJR
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Weird thing on the Jag's trunk release. Since I've had the car, pushing the dash button, the remote button, or the button on the trunk itself, all of which are supposed to open the lid and let you lift it, simply unlock to the soft-close position without actually fully unlocking. I still have to use the key to finish the unlock and open the lid. Once in a great while, like one out of 50 tries, it fully releases.



The latch mechanism new is a bit north of 200 bucks, and they're available used on eBay for $150 or so. For that money I'll keep using the key. It locks just fine when closing, and all behavior is correct except for that last little release.

During the recent cold snap before Christmas, when temps dropped into the 20s where I live (not common at all!!!) I noticed that the release worked perfectly, and would fully release the trunk lid when actuated. as the day went on and temps went closer to where they belong, the latch reverted to what I've come to think of as "normal" behavior. In this video, the first half is cold, the second half is warmer.



Not sure how the temperature affects the function of that device. Something catches and interrupts the cycle when it's warm, doesn't catch when it's cold.