What Have You Done Today - (Computer Version)

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I'm getting increasingly desperate to replace my MacBook Air because a) I don't like the new OS X and things are starting to drop support for 10.9 and b) the 1440x900 resolution is starting to show its age, so I've borrowed my Pi-Top 2 (with an RPi 3 B inside) from work to test streaming my PC's desktop with Parsec - I don't think I've ever taken my MBA out of the flat in the whole five years I've owned it, so I think having a laptop as a streaming terminal for my PC is a good solution.

I have doubts the PT2 will age well, it's not that well-made to begin with, but it performs really well and, apart from the terrible keyboard layout and the trackpad that I can't set to ignore accidental inputs while typing without using the Polaris OS that comes with it (because I prefer Raspbian), using it as I am now is exactly like using a Windows laptop. I've had mixed results with streaming games, though; Forza Horizon 4 is lag-free but Battlefield 1 had about 2 seconds of latency. That's on the Pi's built-in WiFi though which is obviously not ideal, I'm really surprised FH4 worked as well as it did. Another problem is the audio, using the WiFi more or less breaks the Bluetooth (as they share a radio, I guess) so using wireless headphones was not a good experience - the PT2 doesn't have any built-in speakers. All in all, I think a USB 802.11ac dongle might work better and it should free up the on-board Bluetooth, in theory anyway. Then I'd have to work out a way to disable the trackpad when I have a mouse connected and it should be a usable game streamer, too.

Still, I'm not sure it wouldn't be a better idea to find a £300 1080p laptop that I could put Ubuntu on...
 
Drove at one of my GT6 course maker tracks again. As you can see in the video there’s a slight issue with camber angle getting reversed under some rare circumstances, which can create some nasty jumps...

The driving physics and controls are WIP. The clutch script needs refining (you can’t accelerate until the clutch pedal state is at less than 0.1 or else you trigger “let’s burn the clutch”-mode...), the brakes are made out of tissue paper and the steering is kind of wild (difficult to predict the driver’s intentions though when steering is done by binary keyboard inputs...).



Edit: Technically it's a new day, but I don't want to double-post :P

I improved the steering algorithm and the clutch algorithm. It's starting to become driveable.



Below is the new clutch script, for reference.

Code: 
    if logic.car['clutchPressed'] == False and logic.car['clutch'] > 0:
        x = logic.car['rpm']
        if x > 2500:
            clutchtarget = 0
            cRelease = clutchDelta
        elif x > 800:
            # y = a(x-h)**2+k
            a = -1/(2500-800)**2
            k = 1
            clutchtarget = a*(x-800)**2+1
           
            k = (clutchDelta-clutchDelta*0.1)/(2500-1200)
            m = clutchDelta-k*2500
            cRelease = k*x+m
        else:
            clutchtarget = 1
            cRelease = clutchDelta
           
        if logic.car['clutch'] < clutchtarget:
            logic.car['clutch'] += 2*clutchDelta
            if logic.car['clutch'] > clutchtarget:
                logic.car['clutch'] = clutchtarget
        elif logic.car['clutch'] > clutchtarget:
            logic.car['clutch'] -= cRelease
            if logic.car['clutch'] < clutchtarget:
                logic.car['clutch'] = clutchtarget
           
    if logic.car['clutch'] > 1:
        logic.car['clutch'] = 1
    elif logic.car['clutch'] < 0:
        logic.car['clutch'] = 0

When the clutch key is not pressed, and if the clutch is > 0 (0 = fully engaged), a clutch target is determined by the function illustrated in the graph below, and the clutch pedal is gradually moved towards that target.

clutch_function.png
 
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Replaced the thermal paste on my MacBook Pro because I was bored and it's over 4 years old now.
 
Lain
Replaced the thermal paste on my MacBook Pro because I was bored and it's over 4 years old now.
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Oh, they use paste now? The last one I took apart had pads, but that was a PowerBook G4 so it may have been somewhat out of date...
 
I saw that Blender Game Engine video a few days ago @eran0004 ! I am planning a slow return to the Godot Game Engine to further practice developing a decent (not seeking perfection) racing/driving game. I was actually returning on trying to practice methods of developing a 3D race track. Initially, it was a plan for me to use Sports Car GT or Racer to build a course; but since a lot of other programs have been twitchy for me, I may end up using some other kind of game or something to test my 3D track modeling.
 
JohnBM01
I saw that Blender Game Engine video a few days ago @eran0004 ! I am planning a slow return to the Godot Game Engine to further practice developing a decent (not seeking perfection) racing/driving game. I was actually returning on trying to practice methods of developing a 3D race track. Initially, it was a plan for me to use Sports Car GT or Racer to build a course; but since a lot of other programs have been twitchy for me, I may end up using some other kind of game or something to test my 3D track modeling.
Click to expand...

Here you can see how my track is made. In order for the landscape to merge smoothly with the track, the mesh resolution increases with proximity to the track. I have a reference landscape hidden in another layer and then I project the mesh onto that landscape. That way the height value is automatically sampled from the reference landscape and I only need to worry about the x and y coordinates when I do the modeling.

The actual road is a separate object placed on top of the landscape. It has a higher mesh resolution than the terrain.

The landscape is mostly quads and ngons, with a few triangles. I then add a triangulate modifier to get a pretty triangulation of the mesh (if you leave it to the game engine to decide how to divide the ngons, you sometimes get ugly results).

Skärmbild (963).png Skärmbild (964).png Skärmbild (965).png Skärmbild (966).png Skärmbild (967).png
 
Struggled with RAM bottlenecking today. I'm finding a need to look for more RAM and I don't know what thread I can ask about it in...
 
Grayfox
Make one?
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I thought there was a thread already loose around GTP about it.

I ended up getting the answer to the issue off-site. I just need a specific type of DDR4 (DDR-2133) RAM to put in my rig and it'll be all set.
 
I finally made a little "rig" so my pedals are usable under my desk. It sa quick mock up just to make sure concept works. Iplan on making the pedals independently adjustable on the x and adjust as one on the y. Gonna give it a go with Dirt rally once I've got my drivers updated.
20181106_170855.jpg
20181106_170820.jpg
 
Depending on how Christmas goes I may do some upgrades.
Currently have an FX-4130, 8 GB ram, 550 Ti. (I think 550 psu, haven't opened it up recently to clean it out yet but will be in due time)
Thinking of going to a FX-8350, add another 16 GB ram, with a 1050 Ti.
Also adding a 750w PSU. (PSU calculator has a recommended of 650w psu for the upgrades but I would think 750w would be safer.)
 
TJ13
Depending on how Christmas goes I may do some upgrades.
Currently have an FX-4130, 8 GB ram, 550 Ti. (I think 550 psu, haven't opened it up recently to clean it out yet but will be in due time)
Thinking of going to a FX-8350, add another 16 GB ram, with a 1050 Ti.
Also adding a 750w PSU. (PSU calculator has a recommended of 650w psu for the upgrades but I would think 750w would be safer.)
Click to expand...
I run an 8350 black. Not sure what your budget is/would be, but if you can, get an intel instead.i have 16gb and a 1070. I've not been thrilled with the FX chipsets multitasking abilities. I suppose it is ok if you dont plan on running much beyond the mobo and GPU support software, maybe team speak or discord while gaming. But I definitely can't recommend it if you plan on streaming or recording game play.
 
Rallywagon
I run an 8350 black. Not sure what your budget is/would be, but if you can, get an intel instead.i have 16gb and a 1070. I've not been thrilled with the FX chipsets multitasking abilities. I suppose it is ok if you dont plan on running much beyond the mobo and GPU support software, maybe team speak or discord while gaming. But I definitely can't recommend it if you plan on streaming or recording game play.
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I don't plan on streaming or recording.
Mostly to update my current setup with more current stuff.
My mobo can only go up to FX-8370 even though it's only a 4% difference between the 8350 to 8370 (Don't really want to do much more outside of just maxing out what I can now to give me a few extra years.)
I just want to play some games on my own.
Mostly a better setup for Train Sim World and/or TS2019.
 
Make sure to get a good AIO water cooler or a big beefy heatsink. 8350s are power hungry and run hot
 
TJ13
Depending on how Christmas goes I may do some upgrades.
Currently have an FX-4130, 8 GB ram, 550 Ti. (I think 550 psu, haven't opened it up recently to clean it out yet but will be in due time)
Thinking of going to a FX-8350, add another 16 GB ram, with a 1050 Ti.
Also adding a 750w PSU. (PSU calculator has a recommended of 650w psu for the upgrades but I would think 750w would be safer.)
Click to expand...
I wouldn't spend any more money on a dead platform, even a Ryzen 3 runs circles around an FX-8370 - https://www.techspot.com/review/1474-ryzen-vs-older-budget-cpus/
 
Rallywagon
Make sure to get a good AIO water cooler or a big beefy heatsink. 8350s are power hungry and run hot
Click to expand...

I've heard this if you OC,
Lots of other reviews I have seen said that the stock is okay as long as you have the airflow.
Which even under load with my setup I get around 50-60C (With the heat on inside during winter) Also that's with an FX-4130 at 3.8 Ghz stock.
But I also am thinking of a better Wraith fan instead of the stock one (Because I have heard it's noisy)

@Nexus
Well I don't want to go through the hassle of finding a mobo to fit new setups.
I'd rather go to max on what I can with this and then by then some other latest and greatest stuff will be out.

Edit:
I know I would get a 1050 Ti, and 2x8 GB ram first (Along with a new monitor)
Then go with the fx-8350, 750w PSU, and wraith heatsink, after getting in and seeing how much room I have for everything.
I might go with the 8320 instead (Since some say you don't need to go to the 8350 and due to the power/heat issues.)
 
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TJ13
@Nexus
Well I don't want to go through the hassle of finding a mobo to fit new setups.
I'd rather go to max on what I can with this and then by then some other latest and greatest stuff will be out.

Edit:
I know I would get a 1050 Ti, and 2x8 GB ram first (Along with a new monitor)
Then go with the fx-8350, 750w PSU, and wraith heatsink, after getting in and seeing how much room I have for everything.
I might go with the 8320 instead (Since some say you don't need to go to the 8350 and due to the power/heat issues.)
Click to expand...
All you'd need to do is find a motherboard that's the same form factor as your current one (eg. Micro-ATX, ATX), and it'll fit without any problems.

I can understand wanting to get the best out of the parts that you currently have, but all you'd end up doing is wasting money on a dead (and quite outdated) platform. That CPU will severly restrict your upgrade path, as it would bottleneck anything more powerful than a 1050 Ti. And if you wanted to get a new CPU, you'd need to get a new motherboard and RAM at the same time, so you'd essentially be starting from scratch...

If you were to get a great deal on an FX series CPU on it's own, it might be worth going for one. Seeing as you're thinking of getting one as well as a brand new PSU, heatsink and RAM, it'd be much better to just go with new parts instead.
 
Nexus
All you'd need to do is find a motherboard that's the same form factor as your current one (eg. Micro-ATX, ATX), and it'll fit without any problems.

I can understand wanting to get the best out of the parts that you currently have, but all you'd end up doing is wasting money on a dead (and quite outdated) platform. That CPU will severly restrict your upgrade path, as it would bottleneck anything more powerful than a 1050 Ti. And if you wanted to get a new CPU, you'd need to get a new motherboard and RAM at the same time, so you'd essentially be starting from scratch...

If you were to get a great deal on an FX series CPU on it's own, it might be worth going for one. Seeing as you're thinking of getting one as well as a brand new PSU, heatsink and RAM, it'd be much better to just go with new parts instead.
Click to expand...
That's not quite accurate. Chipset and RAM compatibility isnt universal. You cant plug an AMD AM2 into an LGA 1156 socket, or use DDR3 in DDR4 slots for example.
While I wouldn't go with the 8350 either, I am speaking both in hind sight, and for my own pocket book.
On a budget build the 8350 proc is probably 150 bucks cheaper than any mobo and intel proc combo that would perform on par. In that regard, I know full well the desire to save some money. If the idea is minimal background apps and not full on graphics, this build will be good for a couple more years.
Which, upon consideration, might not be bad. That will allow time for ray trace tech to mature and prices drop. It will allow Intel's and AMDs new chipset time to circulate as well.
 
Rallywagon
That's not quite accurate. Chipset and RAM compatibility isnt universal. You cant plug an AMD AM2 into an LGA 1156 socket, or use DDR3 in DDR4 slots for example.
While I wouldn't go with the 8350 either, I am speaking both in hind sight, and for my own pocket book.
On a budget build the 8350 proc is probably 150 bucks cheaper than any mobo and intel proc combo that would perform on par. In that regard, I know full well the desire to save some money. If the idea is minimal background apps and not full on graphics, this build will be good for a couple more years.
Which, upon consideration, might not be bad. That will allow time for ray trace tech to mature and prices drop. It will allow Intel's and AMDs new chipset time to circulate as well.
Click to expand...
My mistake, I assumed that he was referring to finding a motherboard with the same proportions as his current one.

I quickly whipped up two potential builds - one with an FX CPU (as well as a new PSU, RAM, and cooler) and one with a Ryzen CPU (with a new motherboard and RAM).
FX build
Ryzen build
The price for both builds are approximately the same, so I'd say that the Ryzen build is a no-brainer (especially since the Ryzen easily outperforms the FX - refer to my previous post). Having said that, a decent quality 550W PSU should enough for an 8350, so he could probably just keep his current one.
 
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Today, I finally begun to move on from my Google Nexus Player to a new set Android TV box- the Xiaomi Mi Box S. Sadly, I had to re-format my USB drive that had a lot of applications on it from the Nexus Player. So I am in the process of trying to regain most of those apps while also trying out some new ones. There are a number of differences going from the Nexus Player to the Mi Box S. For one, I can actually turn off the device rather than let it run all day. I can also adjust the volume at will. However, I can't use this for private listening. I will have to use the headphone jack on my TV unless I can find some other way to listen privately. I may just simply have to mute the TV audio so I can properly hear with the headphones.
 
Some sites are taking the urine with the whole cookie preferences thing. I've just been to one that had me marked as "opted in" by default, correct me if I'm wrong but if you tell me I've got something enabled when I didn't enable it, that's very much the opposite of me opting in!
 
Spent more time than I care to admit yesterday and today setting up my PS4 controller to work on Star Wars Battlefront II (2005), much like how it was for me on the PS2 version. I tried just setting the controls in game using the controller, but since Battlefront II doesn't allow more than one action to be binded to one button, (such as rolling and crouching) I had to find a work around. Tried using DS4Windows and long story short, I had nothing but trouble with it. In fact, I almost gave up and thought about going back to using a PS3 controller, but I dreaded dealing with Motionin Joy again. :ill: (it was remarkably fickle for me)

So I messed around with Xpadder again and learned a few things about it and now I have it set very close to how it was on the PS2 version for both infantry and fighter controls. Only catch is I noticed for rolling and doing stunts in a fighter, it's not assigned to one button like the PS2 version was, I had to map one of them to another button since I couldn't do both at once. I had to get pretty creative with the Jedi and turret controls though. For the Sith and the Jedi, unlike the PS2 version, they for some strange reason have different controls than the typical player, luckily all I had to do was go into the game itself, change a few controls and it now it's more or less normal to me. The turret controls on the other hand I just had to completely change them in game using the PS4 controller to keep them from interfering with what I had set on xpadder. Now I think I got it more or less the way I want it to be for whenever I decide to play the game.

I have to say, I really like using the PS4 controller soooo much better than the PS3 controller on PC. 👍
 
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I agree about using the PS4 controller. It was cool someone made joy motion, but damn it was not optimized in any sense of the word.
It's amazing thinking how much time is spent configuring controls and settings, especially in PC gaming. I probably have a solid 40 hours in configuring controls and playing with graphics setting in War Thunder. Can add a few more since I still need to work on the controls for boats and helicopters. More once I get my desk built and the button box made.
 
Rallywagon
It was cool someone made joy motion, but damn it was not optimized in any sense of the word.
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I can remember with mine I would plug my controller in and the buttons wouldn't work correctly at first. Like if I pressed R1, it would think I pressed the X button for some reason. So I think I had to disconnect it and then reconnect it before it started working like normal again. (I haven't used it in a while) It's made even worse if I accidentally unplug it while in the middle of a game, because in most cases I think I had to quit the game and then do that all over again. :banghead: And internet connection required? Seriously?! :grumpy: I mean yes it's great someone made the program, but things like this are what put me off from ever wanting to use my PS3 controller more often. 👎 What's worse is I have some games, namely Nerf Arena Blast, that I just don't like to play on anything besides a controller and since Motionin Joy was such a pain for me, I by extension ended up not playing them much as a result.

PS4 controller on the other hand is so much easier. For me it's just, plug in the controller, load Xpadder (if it isn't already loaded), and play the game. No stupid Motionin Joy required! If I accidentally unplug my USB cable, all I have to do is plug it back in and it will continue working without any issues, much like how it was on the PS2. What's cool about Xpadder is I can set it to where it starts automatically when I turn my computer on, making it even easier to get into the game. 👍
Rallywagon
It's amazing thinking how much time is spent configuring controls and settings, especially in PC gaming.
Click to expand...
Indeed. I didn't think i'd be spending so much time setting up my controls in Battlefront II, but I ended up spending most of my afternoon yesterday doing just that. Of course, I was learning a few things about Xpadder along the way and chances are the next time I set up my controls for another game, it may not take nearly as long. In fact after messing around with the PS4 controller some, it's somewhat renewed my interest to play some of my PC games again and I may even set my laptop up so it could be played on my flatscreen TV.
 
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I dont use my DS4 for much other than GTA V/Online for driving/flying and some random games like absolute drift or overcooked etc that just play better with a controller. But, I havent had to worry about remapping the controller at all.
 
Rallywagon
I dont use my DS4 for much other than GTA V/Online for driving/flying and some random games like absolute drift or overcooked etc that just play better with a controller. But, I havent had to worry about remapping the controller at all.
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It's possible those games already support the PS4 controller natively, but I don't play them so I wouldn't know. Older games like Battlefront II however do not for obvious reasons, which is where Xpadder really works wonders.

Weirdly when I was fiddling with DS4Windows, it did roughly the same thing Motionin Joy used to do for me I think, but once I stopped using DS4Windows, all was fine. Now I haven't used Motionin Joy in over 2 years so I may be forgetting somethings. While Motionin Joy does have some kind of offline mod for it, it seems like it didn't work for me and some even say Motionin Joy is spyware. Don't know if it's true or not, but no matter what, I don't care if I never use it again anyways. :yuck:
 
The support is built into windows... it's a native usb device and should work for any windows game as such. This is exactly why you don't need a program like MotioninJoy in games like gta.
Edit: I don't mean to doubt you, it's just odd you would need a program to get this to work. Its recognized and support by windows which treats it as an xbox controller.
 
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Rallywagon
The support is built into windows... it's a native usb device and should work for any windows game as such.
Click to expand...
Yes of course the controller itself is native with Windows and it does work in Star Wars Battlefront II, but the most I can do is move the cursor around and select things in game. Of course you can go into the games control settings and set it up using the DS4, but I decided to use Xpadder instead. What Xpadder does is it makes it so whenever I press a button on the DS4, it will do whatever the key I typed in does. For instance, if the left mouse button is to fire and I want to use the R1 button for that, I can set it where when I press R1, it will do what the left mouse button is supposed to do.

To clarify, I don't use anything to install the drivers for the controller since Windows already does that and I don't actually need this program to play the game, I just prefer using it as it allows me to map multiple keys to one button. Hope this clears things up and here is a link to Xpadder if you're still wondering how it works.
 
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So after messing around with Battlefront 2 plenty last week, it motivated me to go through and set up some of my other PC games for my DS4 controller and of course make sure my settings were want I wanted. So I did and I finished up just today, I noticed some interesting things along the way though. Call of Duty Black Ops doesn't work at all with a DS4 unless I use Xpadder (which doesn't surprise me much) and it's great afterwards. However if I load the game with game_mod, it don't work no matter what, even with Xpadder. Which is a shame because I prefer playing with game_mod more than anything else. Strange how not even Xpadder can touch it because it works with literally everything else I have tried. I started to set it up for Black Ops III, only to realize I didn't have to since the game apparently has direct support for the DS4 with no configuring required. 👍

I have some late 90's Hot Wheels games that actually somewhat work with the DS4 without anything needing to be done. Only thing is one of them behaves rather wonky with it and another works just fine, but it is literally mapped so the X button is to brake and the square button is accelerate. I changed it up though, but I did leave some of the original controls since they worked okay. It was pleasantly surprising to see how they worked with the DS4 without anything being done, Lego Island 2 on the other hand left me absolutely flabbergasted! When I tried it with a DS4, it worked as if it was made to work with it already, the only catch was I couldn't pause the game and I couldn't change it to do so in game. Other than that, it worked perfectly with the game without any addition configuring at all! :eek: (I did end up using Xpadder to map the pause button though)

It's astounding to me how a Lego game from 2001 works almost perfectly with a DS4 when a shooter game from 2010 doesn't work at all. Must be more to controller support than I am aware of since I am somewhat new to this.
 

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