Wheel Setup Help

Anyone try those tweaker settings on a T300 + PS4 yet?
Trying to be prepared for tomorrow, so I can just hop in and go. See a few options in this thread I'll try in the near future.
 
Spend around an hour today messing with settings and felt when I removed Body Damp completely I got a bit more fine detail coming through, especially with the RUFs.

When I get a chance I'll post um my settings.
 
Sprite
Spend around an hour today messing with settings and felt when I removed Body Damp completely I got a bit more fine detail coming through, especially with the RUFs.

When I get a chance I'll post um my settings.
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nice. it really is an ongoing thing. I thought I had some nice setups on a few cars I like to drive but then went back today and made them better. I'll post some as well when I'm happy. it's the fiddly stuff like camber and spring stiffness that takes the time. I still haven't even driven round all the tracks. so much to do, it's great.
 
xX Jojje Xx
I have downloaded this file and manually put in every settings for all cars ( PS4 ) and they work great. I used the Fy+SopLateral values.

WOW :bowdown:

https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckYUlFOURuX2RRU1U&export=download
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I just saw that in a post and will be trying it myself as well. (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24055-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-PS4-XB1-Spreadsheet)


Edit - I reformatted the sheet so that each tab would print out nicely - I wanted a paper copy to use - it is attached.
 

Attachments

  • Project Cars FFB Tweaks.xls
    199 KB · Views: 61
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Anyone with a CSR having issues mapping the clutch? Also when I start a race, I get throttle action on dash but car won't move? Edit* Figured I had to map clutch to a button as the ps4 doesn't recognize the pedal for some reason, hopefully this is fixed soon?

PS4 and Fanatec CSR/CSR Elite pedals? Thanks, hopefully I am overlooking something.
 
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I don't see whats going wrong but i see everyone using steering deadzone 0 but when i have it set to 0 it vibrates left and right massivly when wheel pointed straight, but when its at 1 it feels like a massive deadzone
 
I didnt calibrate my t300rs at all in the game and it works great,it calibrates itself when you turn on the ps4..
 
bleeder
after reading a lot of posts here and watching the ISR video up there ^^ I can safely say I agree with all the people who have reduced the Fx/Fy/Fz sliders. with FFB set to 100% those sliders need taking down somewhat for the T300 as the wheel is way too stiff at the default settings.

I'm running with:

master scale 26 (I bump this up to 40ish sometimes)
Fx 40
Fy 40
Fz 70.01
Mz 100.01
all smoothing off. can actually turn the wheel without a struggle and the general FFB feels a lot better. then I adjust the steering ratio per car until I like how it turns in.
SoP lat 10
SoP diff 10

the feedback I got from t'internet was valuable as always 👍
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This is my favorite T500 setup so far.
 
fastboysmith
I don't see whats going wrong but i see everyone using steering deadzone 0 but when i have it set to 0 it vibrates left and right massivly when wheel pointed straight, but when its at 1 it feels like a massive deadzone
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Perhaps your Dead Zone Removal ( I think it is called ) is set to high.
 
The in game calibrator is supposed to be used only for individual car setups only..your wheel calibrates when you turn your ps4 on and the game recognizes that and for each car you use it will automatically adjust the right rotation for the car model being used.
 
Someone sent me these plain english descriptions of some of the FFB parameters that some of us might find useful:

  • Fx scale (longitudinal forces) - Unless you use really much of this, you will mainly notice this as an added "noise" on the FFB when you hit kerbs etc. Higher amounts of Fx will make the steering wheel counter steer automatically against the slide, but will also make the steering movement on normal cornering feel heavier.
  • Fy scale (lateral forces) - You feel this mainly as a force that acts against your steering movement. Very easy to use too much and over saturate the feel making the FFB feel dull.
  • Fz scale (vertical forces) - Easiest to notice as a force that turns the wheel in the direction of the turning. Kind of acts as a "counter force" against Fy, so sometimes when you have too much Fy, adding a bit more of Fz can make the wheel feel lighter again while turning (a risk of saturating the FFB signal though if you just keep adding these on top of each others to compensate).
  • Mz scale (twisting forces) - Allows you to feel "grip level". Loosing grip will untwist the tires rubber, so adjusting this as high as is possible without creating the "center step" will help you feel better what the car is doing.
  • As a general note for all of the above (Mz, Fx, Fy, Fz), when you start to feel a distinctive FFB step/notch near the center of the wheel, you have too much of something there (or too much of all of them
    tongue.png
    ). Or then you might have just a "dull feel" -> then start to go lower starting with Fy.

Also, there is the SoP (Seat of the Pants) adjustment as well which provides some of the non-steering rack forces. Just be cautious as too much of anything will drown something else out.

Source
 
diesel97
Are these settings olny for PC (not Pcars ) guys or will work for the T300 on PS4 ? I like the spread sheet hopefully we will see more
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I used them on ps4 with T300.. all I did was lower the Master Scale per car that I tried last night and this morning because it was a bit too strong.. if it said 34 for the master I ran about 28-30. But otherwise I followed the classic ones exactly.. I am sure it could be better.. but everyone I tried felt really good.

I wear racing gloves but my wheel stand is a little less stable than a wheel stand pro.. so if you are using a solid desk and chair you might be fine using their exact settings in that sheet.

-EDIT - make sure Master Scale and SoP Scale always match - that is what I just read from the source of the file.
 
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Spitfire77
I used them on ps4 with T300.. all I did was lower the Master Scale per car that I tried last night and this morning because it was a bit too strong.. if it said 34 for the master I ran about 28-30. But otherwise I followed the classic ones exactly.. I am sure it could be better.. but everyone I tried felt really good.

I wear racing gloves but my wheel stand is a little less stable than a wheel stand pro.. so if you are using a solid desk and chair you might be fine using their exact settings in that sheet.
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Noticed that you used the classic version.
Have you compared both versions ?
Just curious about the difference.
For us console gamers this is Force Feedback heaven. :dopey:
 
xX Jojje Xx
Noticed that you used the classic version.
Have you compared both versions ?
Just curious about the difference.
For us console gamers this is Force Feedback heaven. :dopey:
Click to expand...

I have not spent enough time yet to try the Fy+SoPLateral - I am sure it is good though. .. Also I might have made a mistake !!

If you lower the Master Scale (so I am reading) you should ALSO lower the SoP scale to match it.. notice how on every car on both types they always match!... OOPS!
 
Some of you did mention that problem but I have to ask again. Sometimes the ffb graph shows a white line under that yellow ffb line. And it shows me that something is wrong. On the wheel it feels like the motor inside my t300 is broken. It happens on diffeerent tracks and with different cars!

What should I do to avoid this. Is really buggin me. Please help me out asap. I just can't stand it. It's ruining my wheel experience totally!!!
 
PRO_TOO
Some of you did mention that problem but I have to ask again. Sometimes the ffb graph shows a white line under that yellow ffb line. And it shows me that something is wrong. On the wheel it feels like the motor inside my t300 is broken. It happens on diffeerent tracks and with different cars!

What should I do to avoid this. Is really buggin me. Please help me out asap. I just can't stand it.
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I'm pretty sure it's a bug with the game & the T300. I had it happen to me earlier in a career race. my settings were as normal, but the white line came on and the FFB was nasty. it's clipping. the next race was fine. I thought I'd stopped it as I don't use the default FFB settings but it came back this one time. been hours since I first had it though.

not sure what to suggest other than lowering your FFB settings, adjusting the master scale or lowering the Fxyz sliders.

hopefully they'll fix it along with those T500 issues.
 
Thank you. Next race it was gone without me changing anything. Hope this gets fixed.
I have ffb at 75. I don't want to mess with the fxyz sliders yet.
 
PRO_TOO
Thank you. Next race it was gone without me changing anything. Hope this gets fixed.
I have ffb at 75. I don't want to mess with the fxyz sliders yet.
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I never experienced what you are explaining with my t300 on the ps4.. honestly I do not understand all the FFB settings but I do understand if the internal settings are all too high it wont matter if you turn down the main FFB slider - it can still go flat which maybe what you are experiencing ? The defaults maybe bad - but I never tried them because I read not to.

The guide I used has me at a great starting point. - It has been updated in a PDF (attached) I just lower the Master Scale per car until it feels right to me (also make the SOP scale match as it says). - Just pick one car (I suggest the Merc 190 DTM on a track you know well) and follow the instructions.

The best way to quickly adjust and get back to driving is to use the free practice

The settings can always be set back to default if you do not like it.. but please give it a try. Also once you have a good base setting for the car - you can save that setting to all tracks for that car.

I watched this ISRTV video on a starting guide and it really helped with the process. http://www.isrtv.com/pc-racing/project-cars-force-feedback-tips-and-settings/

For me I would rather get one car feeling really good with no FFB issues and move on to the next vs just playing a lot with issues.
 

Attachments

  • Project Cars FFB Tweaks.pdf
    366.8 KB · Views: 28
Thank you. I'll be honest: I want to race not to set up (I'm here to lead, not to read! :) ). I will invest some time but setting up ffb for all cars just scares me a little. I'm a lazy console gamer. :D
 
PRO_TOO
Thank you. I'll be honest: I want to race not to set up (I'm here to lead, not to read! :) ). I will invest some time but setting up ffb for all cars just scares me a little. I'm a lazy console gamer. :D
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I totally understand that, I wanted to race right away too and the defaults should be MUCH better for consoles - the community provided them during development but pCARS released with defaults that are way different from any of the suggestions from long time pCARS racers, at least that I have seen. I really don't know how it worked with WMD and SMS.

There also should be a basic mode (like GT6 two sliders ) - it is nuts with all the settings. - When my wife saw the settings sheet and I told her what it was she said that is crazy.. I said yes it is and hopefully it is worth it.

This was the first racing game that I drove by myself for multiple hours before I thought OK lets add in some AI.
 
PRO_TOO
Thank you. I'll be honest: I want to race not to set up (I'm here to lead, not to read! :) ). I will invest some time but setting up ffb for all cars just scares me a little. I'm a lazy console gamer. :D
Click to expand...
If you change your settings you will get rid of the white line , and not kill your wheel . The settings are to high
 
xX Jojje Xx
I have downloaded this file and manually put in every settings for all cars ( PS4 ) and they work great. I used the Fy+SopLateral values.

WOW :bowdown:

https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckYUlFOURuX2RRU1U&export=download
Click to expand...

Well I can confirm the settings used in this doc for the Clio are great. Really added more depth. The only thing I changed is the Body Damp to 0.

It allowed my to concentrate on the actual car setup for Brans and I settled on just upping the tyre pressures and allowing the break bias to fall more to the rear. A very nice car indeed.
 
I need a good FFB setup for the R18. If I center the wheel when going in a straight line, it feels like its going to shake itself to pieces.
 
fortbo
I need a good FFB setup for the R18. If I center the wheel when going in a straight line, it feels like its going to shake itself to pieces.
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Lower Deadzone Removal Range and Deadzone removal Falloff or lower Mz on the FFB car setup
 
Haven't got the game or anything, but reading this thread is giving me a lot of pause right now. Are we supposed to have individual FFB setting for individual cars to have a good experience with this? I used to do this in GTR/rFactor/GTL editing the text files with the parameters. But that wasn't exactly a great aspect of the experience, and somewhat acceptable because you have modding community making addons vs a released game by a developer....
 
RacingManiac
Are we supposed to have individual FFB setting for individual cars to have a good experience with this?
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No, setting the global parameters is sufficient to get good FFB. But if you really want the optimal experience and the best feel, then yes.
 
@xX Jojje Xx
I tried a few of the Fy+SOPLateral last night and this morning did not like them as much as the Classic ones.. so for now I am sticking with the classic ones - I use the exact settings in the sheet then drop master scale one notch and the SoP Scale a notch to match and race.. works great for now.
 

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