Which order to tune in?

Discussion in 'GT6 Tuning' started by ClippingTApex, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. ClippingTApex


    Hi all, I hope this is in the right place as it's about tuning, but not actually a tune itself. First off I'll start by saying that I enjoy the lobby racing most of all and that although I don't consider myself one of the best, I do feel that I am pretty damn quick......I just feel that I'm not quick enough. I only use automatic and tend to make sure that all of my cars are set to 50:50 balance. I'm not quite sure that's a good idea in all cases, but it seems to be working for me at the moment, I am wondering if this is part of my problem though.

    Looking into how other tuners set up I can't help but wonder where the heck they begin and how they figure how which settings best suit which cars.

    I'm curious to know how and where you all start when it comes to beginning and working your way through a tune.

    When I sit and look at all the various set up options together I consider starting with the suspension, but then I'll feel that other areas need to be worked on first. For instance, would it be better to give consideration to the gear box first or weight, balance or the pp requirement?

    As a couple of examples, is this ok to start with.

    Power and weight reduction and ratio (to improve the pp first), suspension, transmission and then LSD

    or would this be a better option

    suspension, power, LSD then transmission
  2. rams1de


  3. Sick Cylinder

    Sick Cylinder


    The link in the previous post will give you good answers. I'm not a tuner and I'm not fast - just an average player. I start with a standard car and then compare it with a basic tune. Then I pick as many suitable tunes from GTPlanet as possible and compare them with the basic tune - probably about 8 times out of 10 I find I'm faster with a basic tune, but occasionally I find the tune makes a big difference to reducing the lap time.

    For a basic tune I start with race soft suspension, brake balance (normally around 7/4) and LSD (normally around (10/25/15) - most of the time I find those settings faster than the proper tunes listed on GTPlanet.
    AnfieldLFC252 and DaBomm4 like this.
  4. Skygrasper550

    Skygrasper550 Premium

    people normally start with determining how much power or weight or PP level they want in the car that they would tune. If you are planning on tuning a car for a specific track, after determing the power or PP level I suggest you start with tuning the transmission first, because you would want to maximize the car's powerband on every bit of the track that you are tuning for. Then go for LSD and other differential tuning, then tune the suspension. Keep in mind though, if you're going for a certain PP level (i.e. 500PP or 600PP) choosing the right combination of power and weight upgrades is just as important as fiddling with all of the sliders.
    Brewguy44, AnfieldLFC252 and DaBomm4 like this.
  5. TexRex

    TexRex Premium

    United States
    I drive it stock first, usually on CH tires to get a good idea of what the car is inclined to do. I then gradually tackle any issues I find with driving it hard (starting with a preliminary differential tune and dispatching with PD's nonsensical default alignment values), slip on the tires I intend to use while racing and make minor adjustments to get it to a similar state with the newfound grip, and then add power and resolve issues that may come from that. Most of the cars I use are light or can't be made lighter, so PP increase means an increase in power.

    I also like to use Autumn Ring Circuit (Reverse) in Arcade Mode because starting anew with each change subjects the car to a reasonably long straight, some technical corners with varying elevations and inclines, a sustained corner that will point out any roadholding flaws, and then some more technical corners of varying elevations and inclines. It's a short track to begin with but it's nice to not have to lap completely to really wring a car out.

    Remember to not make too many different adjustments between each subsequent test and be sure you stick to the same line so you can not only be sure of what you changed to make a resulting improvement ( there's no "Was it the toe or the damper compression?") but also be sure there was an improvement at all. Changing your line doesn't provide definitive proof, hold off on changing it until you're confident you've made improvements and then stick to the new line until you're confident once more.
    The downside of that is there are numerous parts that actually change gear values, so it requires additional adjustment. Not to disagree with you, simply to amend the statement.
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  6. DaBomm4


    United States
    I think what @=drifting24/7= means is once you have the power parts you will use on the car, then tune the transmission.
    Bowtie-muscle, Brewguy44 and TexRex like this.
  7. TexRex

    TexRex Premium

    United States
    Just caught that after a reread, cheers. ;)
    DaBomm4 likes this.
  8. shmogt


    Basically what I do is decide what you want to do. Want to make a 600pp car, a specific track car, a general good race car, etc. Then most important is add all the power parts and weight etc you need to reach the stats you want the car to have BEFORE tuning. If you starting tuning the transmission before adding the power parts many times it will change the settings later. I get a lot of people telling me they can't reach the exact settings I have for transmission and it's because they haven't added all the power parts yet. Other than that just drive the car around untuned and decided what needs to be changed from the test drive. Maybe it needs to be softer suspension, maybe it needs more positive rear toe to get rid of understeer, etc. I start at whatever was the worst performing after the test drive. Many times the transmission will hit the redline before a straight is over which means it needs to be tuned to be stretched out more. If it's super swirly I start with suspension. Basically make changes and re-test. Ideally if you notice a few problems at the first test drive you can try to fix them right away and test again.
  9. Skygrasper550

    Skygrasper550 Premium

    To be more specific, those power upgrade that change the max RPM of the car are:

    - Engine upgrades (100 rpm per level)
    - Computer (200 rpm)
    - Exhaust (100 rpm per level)
    - Catalytic Converter (200 rpm)

    so yeah, like @shmogt said and to clarify what I said earlier, you need to first choose and settle on the right combo of power and weight upgrades to reach a certain PP level before tuning, ESPECIALLY the power upgrades. As I enumerated above, those power upgrades change the max RPM of the car. Because if you decide to change those power upgrades after the tuning, it would affect your gear ratios. And in turn, it would affect your car's grip and handling. That effect might be minute on some cars, it might be drastic on others. So you have to be careful with those upgrades.
  10. OdeFinn


    Story of Beetlejuice: after every step driving half to three laps around Tsukuba

    All aids off, including ABS
    Testing stock
    Upgrading power to desired pp level, on this case 450pp, all power parts, custom gearbox and window plus hood lighten
    Setting some base starting point speed on gearbox
    Installing fully customizable suspension
    Setting brake bias/power on brakes
    Setting camber and toe
    Adjusting ARB for base body movements
    Adjusting springs for stable body roll
    Adjusting dampers to support body roll
    Fixing camber and toe work with new body roll movements
    Installing one or two grade better tires to see movements better, in this case tested both, comfort soft and sports hard
    Returning back desired tires, comfort medium
    Lowering body, testing suspension bottom point, raising above it.
    Adjusting springs for new drive height, checking camber and toe
    Testing better tires
    Returning desired tires
    Adding custom LSD, reverting it to 5/5/5
    Setting LSD from low end values ( numbered corners aren't only places, but easiest to feel)
    Setting LSD acceleration min after first turn
    Setting LSD initial min on corners 8 and 9
    Setting LSD braking min on corners 1, 5,10 and 12, most important is finalizing it on corner 12
    Doubling values to see is it working
    Reverting back to non doubled values
    Installing dual clutch
    Setting LSD again to work with dual clutch, in this case easy minus one to all values
    Testing doubled LSD
    Reverting back LSD
    Setting transmission, shortening some, lengthen other to get good working rev area during cornering
    Changing track to Nordschleife for top speed setup on gearbox, first wrong way on back straight, then normal way same straight
    Shortening final bit to get all out from engine, not so powerful so needs bit help.
    Back to Tsukuba testing
    Testing handling from CH to SS tires, maybe some stiffening on different sheet for better compounds, or not.

    Going online testing is everything fine there too, and starting to race with it. Constant low 1:10 times around Tsukuba full real no aids absless.

    Maybe it was there.. Hmm have to read this again tomorrow just to make sure at all is there.
    Tune can be found on my garage, link on my signature.
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2015