YLOD Question for the techies.

  • Thread starter chippy1000
  • 32 comments
  • 3,593 views
Hi I have an 80 GB CECHE01 (MGS4 bundle) model, I've had it for about 5 years running with no problems at all. I got the YLOD yesterday, and been checking for solutions ever since, I just have a couple of questions.

Q1) If I manage to start it up using the hair dryer method, is saving GT5 save data to a USB enough to cover everything GT5 related or do I need to save the game data too.

Yes, although you'll be missing downloaded content, which is just a matter of redownloading it. I'm talking about things like Stealth cars and the Gillette Camaro. I don't know how the new content works, however. If you haven't bought Spa or any of the new DLC, then you've nothing to worry about.

Q2) Why do I need to deactivate my psn account? Can't I just login from a different PS3 and retain my id etc? I need some clarification as I don't fully understand this part.

When doing a LAN backup, the PS3 requires you to deactivate your PSN account from that PS3. As far as I know, you can only have your account activated on 5 PS3s at a time, so while not strictly necessary it could be wise to do it if you're not going to use the old PS3 anymore.

Q3) If I can't fix my fat 80GB ps3, are the slim ones immune to the YLOD or not?

No, they're not. They're done with newer materials and don't get as hot as a fatty under normal operation, but they can still be victims of it.

Q4) Why would it get YLOD after 5 years of perfect operation? Are the fixes permanent or would the YLOD come back again?

The only permanent fix is a reballing process. A reflow with a heat gun is temporary. There's been people who've had their PS3s working for 6 months after a reflow, and some that have reported barely a few minutes.

Responses above.
 
Just out of curiosity, is there any other cause of the YLOD/3-beeps of death? My original Fatty just died (this is the one with the "real" PS2 inside it, so I want to fix it, not replace it). However, most reports I've seen suggest systems that begin to fail, shutting down due to over-heating. Mine just died all of a sudden, not while playing a game, but only while playing NetFlix. Up until that point it had always worked perfectly. This leaves me wondering if I might have a YLOD caused by a different component failure than usual. I'm perfectly capable of performing the repair (for those who haven't used iFixit yet, they have a fantastic guide and a repair kit including the heat-gun), but I don't want to wasted my time or money if my YLOD is being caused by an unknown problem instead of the common one.

So, anyone have a PS3 with the YLOD that just failed all at once with no prior symptoms? Anyone successfully fixed a PS3 that has failed in such a way?

Thanks!

(Note: Anyone else here remember way-back when many chips were socketed? And they would work loose from the heat/cool cycle over time. Just open the case and push firmly down on all the socketed chips and you were good to go. Or, just pick up the computer and drop it 2 inches. Ouch! Anyway, one would have thought that manufacturers would have finally figured out that heat/cool/heat/cool is a part of computing and actually built their equipment to tolerate it. Too much to hope for I guess...)
 
Just out of curiosity, is there any other cause of the YLOD/3-beeps of death? My original Fatty just died (this is the one with the "real" PS2 inside it, so I want to fix it, not replace it). However, most reports I've seen suggest systems that begin to fail, shutting down due to over-heating. Mine just died all of a sudden, not while playing a game, but only while playing NetFlix. Up until that point it had always worked perfectly. This leaves me wondering if I might have a YLOD caused by a different component failure than usual. I'm perfectly capable of performing the repair (for those who haven't used iFixit yet, they have a fantastic guide and a repair kit including the heat-gun), but I don't want to wasted my time or money if my YLOD is being caused by an unknown problem instead of the common one.

So, anyone have a PS3 with the YLOD that just failed all at once with no prior symptoms? Anyone successfully fixed a PS3 that has failed in such a way?

Thanks!

(Note: Anyone else here remember way-back when many chips were socketed? And they would work loose from the heat/cool cycle over time. Just open the case and push firmly down on all the socketed chips and you were good to go. Or, just pick up the computer and drop it 2 inches. Ouch! Anyway, one would have thought that manufacturers would have finally figured out that heat/cool/heat/cool is a part of computing and actually built their equipment to tolerate it. Too much to hope for I guess...)

Apparently the cause is the lead-free solder used which cracks eventually and the poor thermal paste used, the only real long term solution is reballing with lead based solder which is expensive and probably not the effort unless you're especially attached to your fatty. The reason lead free solder is used is because it's classed as a toy(!) and so has to use lead-free as a result. The Military still uses lead solder in it's electronics, and for a reason.

Mine died with a YLOD the other day with absolutely no warning at all, was just browsing the XMB after booting it up and bam, it went. I used the hairdryer trick blowing it through the rear vents, theres some videos on youtube. It's working again for now, long enough to pull the data off at any rate.
 
Back