Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,600 comments
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Marty, ask Eric about the board?

He got some experience mending such a PCB so maybe he could have a look if you sent it to him, gotta ask to get a reply though. Good luck hope you get it fixed whether mending it or getting a new one from Fanatec?
 
Might have to do that. I'll wait to see when and if Fanatec comes through for me. The trace is broken right at the chip. A friend who does board work couldn't fix it. It would require replacing the chip. Very difficult.

If I wasn't into doing upgrades to my '04 Mustang right now I think I'd just jump on a CSW V2 when it comes out. Fortunately my trusty ole G27 is good for my league races.
 
Yeah I know what you mean Marty, have a portable balanced amplifier used in my portable music rig that I somehow manage to mess up when I pushed the levers for gain setting to hard. Gain settings mounted directly on PCB but amp´s chassis is open so leavers can be flipped from outside using a small tool. I physically used enough power to push it off the PCB inside the amp and the traces on PCB just came with it and ohh boy that was no fun trying to mend lol.

Looks like this from outside, found no inside pic atm and too lazy to open mine again lol:

35it5z6.jpg


Somehow I id manage after messing around trying several solder stations as well as different solder, did not know about Eric back then or at very least had no contact with him even though I had read some on here. If I had I would much rather have asked him if he could help me out for a small fee and if yes then sent it to him for repair, dang that was really hard to mend imho and such small traces as well so scared of them breaking off again.

These types of jobs are not for me and other with little or no experience soldering, best left to the experts hehe..
 
eKretz
@MartyU new board should be available for $50 from Fanatec bud. If they don't want to sell you one I can definitely repair it.
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Thanks Eric. That's good to know. Keeping fingers crossed for Fanatec to come through. Your motor mod for the CSW has been a good investment so I really want to get the wheel back up and running. That said I'm quite amazed how race worthy the G27 that I'm using now is except running at max force it does fade some when it warms up.
 
Does anyone have successfully made a custom steering wheel for CSW vs CSR, without the 250$ universal hub from Fanatec?

I'm trying to build a formula style steering wheel, with Leo Bodnar's boards, but i know that the FFB works only with original stuff from Fanatec, so I think there is a closed protocol who enables the base...
 
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My goal is to be free to don't buy a Fanatech steeringwheel, mostly becouse is quite difficult to get a used one, of course becouse they sell V1 to get V2 and they keep the rims...
 
eKretz
@MartyU new board should be available for $50 from Fanatec bud. If they don't want to sell you one I can definitely repair it.
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Just reporting in, Fanatec contacted me with a price of $66.43 for the board and cable so I'm breathing easier now.

With previous warranty work and now the availability of parts for purchase I give Fanatec high marks for customer support.
 
GeeForceP
That's the guy! A bit of looking online and people loved his design, I wondered if they were still floating round anywhere?
The more I think about it the more I think buying CSPs makes sense!
Next pedal related question,
Does anyone have some thin soled racing boots they can recommend? Heel and toeing is hurting my poor little feet!!!
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I just purchased a set of OMP Evo's and absolutely love them. Very comfortable on in the car as well as on the sim rig. Highly recommend and also grabbed a pair of OMP Sport Racing Gloves. Both are the best I've ever had.
image.jpg
 
i have run into a problem, after trying to go back to my xbox 360 to mess around on some forza i cannot get my wheel to enter shifter calibration. i have tried reflashing the firmware dozens of times now with different versions and still no luck. im really strugling to find out why its not working, i googled it and saw some people had some issues with the 757 FW but coundnt find any real answers besides re-flashing again. any ideas?
 
Blue028
i have run into a problem, after trying to go back to my xbox 360 to mess around on some forza i cannot get my wheel to enter shifter calibration. i have tried reflashing the firmware dozens of times now with different versions and still no luck. im really strugling to find out why its not working, i googled it and saw some people had some issues with the 757 FW but coundnt find any real answers besides re-flashing again. any ideas?
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I had that once with my elite running forza horizon, try rolling back to a older firmware and re-apply 757FW again, it worked for me. :)
 
alright i shal keep trying, thanks bruzki


EDIT: well after another hour of changing/re-flashing the FW i still cant get the wheel to enter shifter calibration, i have tried reseting to the stock FW and a few others and i cant do it on any of them. holding down the tuning menu button and the start button will either do the rST or will put the wheel into xbox mode. i have never had this problem before and i have no idea whats causing it, its driving me nuts
 
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Hi, I'm working on a CSR/GT2/GT3 motor mod (single motor, using the standard encoder), because my Mabuchi fault (the second in 2 years....). Can you tell me if these motors are wrong and why?
I found these, all dual shafts motors :
First motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANSEN-DC-M...285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3c9cfad62d (i'd use only one motor)

Second motor: http://www.ebay.it/itm/Buehler-12V-...792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d0b30440 (12V motor)

Third motor: http://www.ebay.it/itm/HITACHI-24VD...912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3c9ab84f28 (is the optical encoder compatible with the Fanatec, or i have to use always the standard Fanatec encoder?)

Fourth motor: http://www.ebay.it/itm/Gleichstromm...17696?pt=Motoren_Getriebe&hash=item41706abd40

The second and the fourth are 12V and 7,5V, i could use them at 24v or they'll burn? And what about the encoder?
Thanks guys, and congratulations for the great mod 👍
 
iononome
Hi, I'm working on a CSR/GT2/GT3 motor mod (single motor, using the standard encoder), because my Mabuchi fault (the second in 2 years....). Can you tell me if these motors are wrong and why?
I found these, all dual shafts motors :
First motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANSEN-DC-M...285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3c9cfad62d (i'd use only one motor)

Second motor: http://www.ebay.it/itm/Buehler-12V-...792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d0b30440 (12V motor)

Third motor: http://www.ebay.it/itm/HITACHI-24VD...912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3c9ab84f28 (is the optical encoder compatible with the Fanatec, or i have to use always the standard Fanatec encoder?)

Fourth motor: http://www.ebay.it/itm/Gleichstromm...17696?pt=Motoren_Getriebe&hash=item41706abd40

The second and the fourth are 12V and 7,5V, i could use them at 24v or they'll burn? And what about the encoder?
Thanks guys, and congratulations for the great mod 👍
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The biggest problem you are going to have with the Porsche style wheels is that there is very limited room for a bigger motor. If you go a slightly larger diameter can then you will have issues mounting it as the stock motors are already right against the bearing housing at the back of the steering shaft (Unless you are planning on making a lot of changes to the base or making something from scratch)
 
Blue028
The biggest problem you are going to have with the Porsche style wheels is that there is very limited room for a bigger motor. If you go a slightly larger diameter can then you will have issues mounting it as the stock motors are already right against the bearing housing at the back of the steering shaft (Unless you are planning on making a lot of changes to the base or making something from scratch)
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Yes, if necessary i'll modify the base or even rebuild the base...now I just need to know if the motors I post are ok :D
 
im not an expert on the motors but the first three are probably useable, the last one definatly not as it looks like it draws more than 40A at stall. the second motor may be a little too much aswell at 3.5A stall, the porche wheels only run a 2.5A PSU from memory and i have no idea if the electronics in the wheel have much headroom. im not really sure on the 12V motor though, it could be used in 24v but will brobably generate alot of heat if its not designed for that much current
 
Lol, yup buddy. Hopefully one more trip to the shop and I'll be shipping out some motor blocks. Plus the kids birthday party was this weekend and they BOTH got sick, so we did too. Very tired.

As for the 3.5a motor above it might be OK, but you need to stick with something that stalls nearly the same as such unless you want to change the power supply. I'm not familiar with that wheel so I can't comment as to reliability or suitability. The PCB and components on it are going to be your limiting factor to using more powerful motors, and if you want to stick to near stock you need to look for motors that have similar specs to stock, so 24V and 2.5 - 3' ish amps at stall.
 
Question for the Guys with a Meanwell sp-320 , I Got mine over the weekend while racing down in Minnesota (Horrible run in both Nitro classes but managed a 1st and 5th in my E-Buggy class and took 2nd overall)

So the issue is i cant help but notice when you flip the PS upside down there's a lot of sounds of stuff wiggling around in there. Ive tried to look inside with a flashlight and wiggle it around but cant pin point whats making the sound, There's nothing thats Falling out of the case or anything just curious what the heck the sound is.
 
Nick Moxley
Question for the Guys with a Meanwell sp-320 , I Got mine over the weekend while racing down in Minnesota (Horrible run in both Nitro classes but managed a 1st and 5th in my E-Buggy class and took 2nd overall)

So the issue is i cant help but notice when you flip the PS upside down there's a lot of sounds of stuff wiggling around in there. Ive tried to look inside with a flashlight and wiggle it around but cant pin point whats making the sound, There's nothing thats Falling out of the case or anything just curious what the heck the sound is.
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Is the fan running when you hear the noise? If so it might just be something like a wire touching the fan blades. Mine is an SP-300 but they look to be the same basic configuration. The fan on mine only runs intermittently shutting off when the temp drops.

You could open it up to have a look or just don't turn it upside down. I'd want to look inside to see what's up.
 
eKretz
As for the 3.5a motor above it might be OK, but you need to stick with something that stalls nearly the same as such unless you want to change the power supply. I'm not familiar with that wheel so I can't comment as to reliability or suitability. The PCB and components on it are going to be your limiting factor to using more powerful motors, and if you want to stick to near stock you need to look for motors that have similar specs to stock, so 24V and 2.5 - 3' ish amps at stall.
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Ok...and is there a method to mount the encoder on a motor without dual shaft?
 
Nick, that's normal, I wondered the same when I first got mine and took it all apart and determined the noise is coming from one of the board components as well as an insulating card. I don't recall what exactly the component was - it was a LONG time ago that I took it apart. The insulating card is just a nonconductive thin sheet of plastic that rests under the solder joints of the PCB and isn't really tight, so it can float around and make noise if you jiggle the PS or turn it upside down. It just makes sure there can't be any contact between the solder joints and the aluminum case even if the PS gets crushed. Every one I've gotten makes the same noise, and I've gotten about 6 or 8 of them.
 

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