Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

  • Thread starter super_gt
  • 766 comments
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This is good news, I would like to think we might have them by the end of next week.

I'm surprised today's update doesn't include at least some integration of the DD Extreme, maybe not the Fullforce, but it would be nice to have button mapping, and all the lights working properly! That could of course come in a small patch at any time!
Mine has been collected by UPS and scanned for export, UPS tracking says estimated delivery this Thursday :D
 
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Mine has been collected by UPS and scanned for export, UPS tracking says estimated delivery this Thursday :D
Oh awesome..... mine seems to be one day behind yours, although the shipping labels were created on Friday, I only got the 'we have despatched your order' email this morning, and as far as I can see it hasn't moved yet. I expect it will be collected tomorrow, and due for delivery on Friday.
 
Hello Everyone,

New here, recently got into Gran Turismo 7, really like the game and decided to invest into a direct drive wheel. I decided to go with Fanatec DD+ Extreme, ordered it the package when it first launched and received the package along with the clubsport pedal v3 a week later. So far enjoying the setup, learning how to not be so aggressive going into corners and things like that. I'm currently using this configuration based on this link I found online, works well for me. I don't know what everything do, but trying to learn as I go.

Fanatec Clubsport DD+ Settings​

  • SEN – AUTO
  • FFB – 35
  • FULL FORCE – 60 (doesn’t matter at this point)
  • NDP – OFF
  • NFR – 5
  • NIN – 5
  • INT – 2
  • FEI – 100
  • FOR – 100
  • SPR – OFF (don’t matter)
  • DPR – OFF (don’t matter)
  • BLI – OFF
  • SHO – ON
  • MPS – AUTO
  • BRF – 85 (personal preference)

  • In-game FFB – 7
  • Sensitivity – 10

 
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Mine was quiet before. Sat in a quiet room with it for a while 100% sure. Now. Definitely window cracked in the north country during winter, type whistling. The pitch varies almost in a trilling sort of way.

Now I play with vr so i really don’t care, but it definitely happened yesterday
Here's some updated information about the "Coil Whine" issue straight from Fanatec. OFFICIAL FANATEC FORUM

Decisions...decisions....😐
 
Got my DD Extreme and spent a couple of hours with it last night. Mine is dead silent, even if I put my ear right at the base I can’t hear anything. Out of the box it worked in GT7 but the tuning menu was not working properly and FFB with the Extreme wheel was weak and it wasn’t smooth when turning. I only noticed this when I swapped to the McLaren GT3 and Porsche wheels. So I updated to 456 and the latest drivers. Now I get full FFB with the Extreme wheel and it feels smooth when turning. However the base does crash often with the Extreme wheel as reported by others when using the latest base firmware. I think I’ll wait for a newer firmware before downgrading to 455, unless I get crashes when using my other wheels.
 
DD+ here.. with a FV2.5 QR2 standard. Zero noises and cleanly updated to 455 before first use (fresh install of all programs from Fanatec before updating the base/QR and Wheel) I came from a CSL Elite which has been faithful for many years now.

I've asked this question on the Fanatec forums only to be told I was wrong, but I guess I'll ask here and see if I'm loosing my mind.... yet..

With the CSL Elite I had the standard CSL (Same as the WRC wheel) wheel attached which had a profile in GT7 to update button assignments. I bought the Formula V2.5 and when this wheel was attached the Podium wheel pre-set would be selected in the game and I was able to modify the button assignment to suit my preference. Swap back to the round wheel and the game would automatically select the appropriate pre-set.

With the DD+ and the F2.5 the game is selecting the GT DD Pro 8nm pre-set. You cant manually (or at least I cant find a way to) select the Podium pre-set and the buttons are all over the shop as I dont have the GT DD wheel.

Can anyone help or at least tell me I'm not loosing my mind....
 
someone state that the in game sensi’s range had been modified as well. Have you noticed anything?
No Sir, the Ingame Sensitivity as far as I'm aware of definitely did NOT change.
After I've read your post yesterday I did some investigatve testing and came to the conclusion that it hasn't been changed.
It's just the Torque Cuve/Distribution across the in game Torque Range setting which was widened.
Question re ndp. Is this the only other tool than int we have when it comes to moderation of the ffb signals?
Nope.
Every single tool on the Wheelbase Tuning Menu has an effect on how the FFB will feel.
But INT is the most important one as it's a the most effective one in terms of being the Fundamentals.
Once selected, then you should start with tuning the other ones.

And of course the in game Values are of importance too, let's not forget that these 2 sliders are the only ones which are used on ANY Wheel out there., so they are the only constant in the Settings Procedure across EVERY compatible Wheelbase.

The Wheelbase Tuning Menus or let's say the ones that do have this, are actually JUST for dialing in YOUR PERSONALLY preferred "Wheelrim" feel.
It's more of an in depth fine tuning thing, which of course can have a huge and undeniably positive or negative effect.
In General less is mostly more depending on how good or bad or detailed and nuanced the Raw code in game Signal is.

One other very important aspect is to ask yourself what YOU PERSONALLY want?
What is that you need in order to get or achieve the desired effect you are looking for.

For me personally I've come to conclusion a long time ago that it's either
A: A realistic feel for maximum immersion and joy
OR
B: The most effective way to be as fast as possible.

Of course there's something to be found in between as well for the undecided or unexperienced and newbies.

But yeah that's it.

Btw to give you an example what I mean.
There is this one chap who just recently posted some settings from a famous YouTube Bloke called Digit.
He is my Croatian Fellow so am I.
But we both have a completely different approach and Wheelbase Setup, although we both are using the exact same equipment.

Many YouTube Streamers in general are not after the most enjoyable or most authentic Driving experience.

They are simply setting up their Wheels to be as competitive as they possibly can be.
The Wheel has to be as quick and fast as possible. Details are of no high Importance.
As long as they are fast they are good.

So I highly always advice anyone to make sure to NOT just copy paste anyone's settings as long as they are not aware what they are looking for in terms of FFB Fidelity and Quality.

And of course copying someones settings won't make them as fast as the person who has posted or is actually using them.

Therefore the so called YouTube Streamer Reviews are absolutely of zero importance to Me personally, as they are of no value for ME.

But anyway let's not move too far away from the Topic.
I hope I could answer some of your questions and sorry for responding a tad bit late but I had to drive my Cars and enjoy my Wheelbase rather then responding in time 😅
 
Hrm. Is the whistling the whine they’re referring too?
I think so. Everyone has been calling it "coil whine", but I think you calling it a whistle is more accurate. At least that's how my ears perceive it. In any case, I've decided to contact FANATEC support about it. At the end of the day, they must evaluate the issue and recommend the course of action. Like the Fanatec Forum moderator post said, “this issue is widespread and requires a fix”.

I’ve dealt with their support system in the past. It’s straight forward. You just need to follow their instructions and pack your patience. They require a video of the issue along with a description of the issue. The trick with the “whistle” issue is capturing the sound. I’m not sure an iPhone video will cut it in this case as the sound is what needs to be captured. I have a SONY camera and mic set up at work, so maybe it’s sensitive enough to capture the “whistle”.

I really like this base a lot, but if the FANATEC support guys determine the “whistle” is not within spec, then sure, I wouldn’t mind having it fixed.
 
DD+ here.. with a FV2.5 QR2 standard. Zero noises and cleanly updated to 455 before first use (fresh install of all programs from Fanatec before updating the base/QR and Wheel) I came from a CSL Elite which has been faithful for many years now.

I've asked this question on the Fanatec forums only to be told I was wrong, but I guess I'll ask here and see if I'm loosing my mind.... yet..

With the CSL Elite I had the standard CSL (Same as the WRC wheel) wheel attached which had a profile in GT7 to update button assignments. I bought the Formula V2.5 and when this wheel was attached the Podium wheel pre-set would be selected in the game and I was able to modify the button assignment to suit my preference. Swap back to the round wheel and the game would automatically select the appropriate pre-set.

With the DD+ and the F2.5 the game is selecting the GT DD Pro 8nm pre-set. You cant manually (or at least I cant find a way to) select the Podium pre-set and the buttons are all over the shop as I dont have the GT DD wheel.

Can anyone help or at least tell me I'm not loosing my mind....
Correct. You can't manually set the preset to the PODIUM. Your DD Plus will always be seen as a DD Pro regardless of what wheel rim is attached. That's exactly what was communicated to people in the FANATEC forums. I would imagine Polyphony will update the game with a DD Plus preset, but it's likely to have the Extreme wheel pre-mapped. In my view, I don't see why they don't add multiple presets for FANATECS wheel offerings, but that may be asking too much from PD.
I'll double check tonight. I have the Plus and the F1 V2.5, so it will be easy to verify this craziness.
 
Hello Everyone,

New here, recently got into Gran Turismo 7, really like the game and decided to invest into a direct drive wheel. I decided to go with Fanatec DD+ Extreme, ordered it the package when it first launched and received the package along with the clubsport pedal v3 a week later. So far enjoying the setup, learning how to not be so aggressive going into corners and things like that. I'm currently using this configuration based on this link I found online, works well for me. I don't know what everything do, but trying to learn as I go.

Fanatec Clubsport DD+ Settings​

  • SEN – AUTO
  • FFB – 35
  • FULL FORCE – 60 (doesn’t matter at this point)
  • NDP – OFF
  • NFR – 5
  • NIN – 5
  • INT – 2
  • FEI – 100
  • FOR – 100
  • SPR – OFF (don’t matter)
  • DPR – OFF (don’t matter)
  • BLI – OFF
  • SHO – ON
  • MPS – AUTO
  • BRF – 85 (personal preference)

  • In-game FFB – 7
  • Sensitivity – 10

Welcome...... hope you are getting on well with your new set up!
There is a ton of info in this post.....

 
My Settings are as following
FFB 100
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 0
INT 4 everything else is default
Thanks for these settings. Post 1.43 I had a hard time getting the DD+ dialed in and these work great with 5/7 in game. I'm actually happier with these settings than what I had pre-1.43.
 
No Sir, the Ingame Sensitivity as far as I'm aware of definitely did NOT change.
After I've read your post yesterday I did some investigatve testing and came to the conclusion that it hasn't been changed.
It's just the Torque Cuve/Distribution across the in game Torque Range setting which was widened.

Nope.
Every single tool on the Wheelbase Tuning Menu has an effect on how the FFB will feel.
But INT is the most important one as it's a the most effective one in terms of being the Fundamentals.
Once selected, then you should start with tuning the other ones.

And of course the in game Values are of importance too, let's not forget that these 2 sliders are the only ones which are used on ANY Wheel out there., so they are the only constant in the Settings Procedure across EVERY compatible Wheelbase.

The Wheelbase Tuning Menus or let's say the ones that do have this, are actually JUST for dialing in YOUR PERSONALLY preferred "Wheelrim" feel.
It's more of an in depth fine tuning thing, which of course can have a huge and undeniably positive or negative effect.
In General less is mostly more depending on how good or bad or detailed and nuanced the Raw code in game Signal is.

One other very important aspect is to ask yourself what YOU PERSONALLY want?
What is that you need in order to get or achieve the desired effect you are looking for.

For me personally I've come to conclusion a long time ago that it's either
A: A realistic feel for maximum immersion and joy
OR
B: The most effective way to be as fast as possible.

Of course there's something to be found in between as well for the undecided or unexperienced and newbies.

But yeah that's it.

Btw to give you an example what I mean.
There is this one chap who just recently posted some settings from a famous YouTube Bloke called Digit.
He is my Croatian Fellow so am I.
But we both have a completely different approach and Wheelbase Setup, although we both are using the exact same equipment.

Many YouTube Streamers in general are not after the most enjoyable or most authentic Driving experience.

They are simply setting up their Wheels to be as competitive as they possibly can be.
The Wheel has to be as quick and fast as possible. Details are of no high Importance.
As long as they are fast they are good.

So I highly always advice anyone to make sure to NOT just copy paste anyone's settings as long as they are not aware what they are looking for in terms of FFB Fidelity and Quality.

And of course copying someones settings won't make them as fast as the person who has posted or is actually using them.

Therefore the so called YouTube Streamer Reviews are absolutely of zero importance to Me personally, as they are of no value for ME.

But anyway let's not move too far away from the Topic.
I hope I could answer some of your questions and sorry for responding a tad bit late but I had to drive my Cars and enjoy my Wheelbase rather then responding in time 😅
Appreciate you taking the time to check out the sensi slider. And i fall into the category of wanting the most realistic ffb possible. If i can feel the car as it traverses corners, the weight of the tires loading and the various stages of grip..all the good stuff! I will get progressively faster..or more importantly, just have fun.
 
Hope so...... Mine arrived today, and I am literally about ready to turn it on now!!
... I'm up and running, and so far so good! I was hoping that I wouldn't have to update firmware, but I did!

Straight out of the box it worked but I didn't think it was going to at first - I pressed the PS button to log it in and then the X but that didn't work, it might be that I wasn't pushing X hard enough. Turned everything off then on again and it logged in fine with the following notes:
  • No display, every pixel was lit, so just a big rectangle.
  • Force Feed Back very weak.
  • A slight notch could be felt every so often, like a little click when turning... and it could also he heard with the volume down, but that is all that could be heard, apart from that it was silent.
So, no option but to update firmware which I did using 455. That was straight forward but afterwards the wheel needed re calibration. Once I'd worked that out it seems to be fine.
  • The display is working as it should, albeit limited for now. It does look a bit dim though so I need to check that out.
  • Force Feed Back seems strong, will be checking @PirovacBoy settings soon.
  • The slight notch is gone and it is still perfectly silent although I have only used it for like 5 minutes so will keep an ear on that.
Next job is swap the QR2 Lite for QR2 (Edit - I forgot to mention, the screws holding the QR2 Lite were not very tight out of the box, but the manual for the QR2 does say only 3nm which isn't very tight. I'm going to be careful tightening them)

The quality of the Extreme really does make the Pro look like a toy, it's lovely to use and as for magnetic shifters... it's the first time I've used them, and I won't be going back!
 
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Hope so...... Mine arrived today, and I am literally about ready to turn it on now!!

... I'm up and running, and so fer so good! I was hoping that I wouldn't have to update firmware, but I did!

Straight out of the box it worked but I didn't think it was going to at first - I pressed the PS button to log it in and then the x but that didn't work, and it might be that I wasn't pushing it hard enough. Turned everything off then on again and it logged in fine with the following notes:
  • No display, every pixel was lit, so just a big rectangle.
  • Force Feed Back very weak.
  • A slight notch could be felt every so often, like a little click when turning... and it could also he heard with the volume down, but that is all that could be heard, apart from that it was silent.
So, no option but to update firmware which I did using 455. That was straight forward but afterwards the wheel needed re calibration. Once I'd worked that out it seems to be fine.
  • The display is working as it should, albeit limited for now. It does look a bit dim though so I need to check that out.
  • Force Feed Back seems strong, will be checking @PirovacBoy settings soon.
  • The slight notch is gone and it is still perfectly silent although I have only used it for like 5 minutes so will keep an ear on that.
Next job is swap the QR2 Lite for QR2 (Edit - I forgot to mention, the screws holding the QR2 Lite were not very tight out of the box, but the manual for the QR2 does say only 3nm which isn't very tight. I'm going to be careful tightening them)

The quality of the Extreme really does make the Pro look like a toy, it's lovely to use and as for magnetic shifters... it's the first time I've used them, and I won't be going back!
Have you tried the qr2 lite before swapping to qr2? Considering buying a qr2 for the dd wheel and wondering if its worth it.
 
Have you tried the qr2 lite before swapping to qr2? Considering buying a qr2 for the dd wheel and wondering if its worth it.
Yes, I did a few laps with the QR2 Lite and it seemed perfectly fine. QR2 is now fitted, but haven't tried it yet.

I was surprised at the size of the lite, compared to the QR2 it's bigger and chunkier....
 
Yes, I did a few laps with the QR2 Lite and it seemed perfectly fine. QR2 is now fitted, but haven't tried it yet.

I was surprised at the size of the lite, compared to the QR2 it's bigger and chunkier....
I put a QR2 on mine, purely from a longevity point of view, clearly the lite is strong enough for the job, but will it last as long as the metal version?

I guess the lite is chunkier because it's made of carbon reinforced plastic and needs to withstand up to 15nm
 
Hope so...... Mine arrived today, and I am literally about ready to turn it on now!!

... I'm up and running, and so fer so good! I was hoping that I wouldn't have to update firmware, but I did!

Straight out of the box it worked but I didn't think it was going to at first - I pressed the PS button to log it in and then the x but that didn't work, and it might be that I wasn't pushing it hard enough. Turned everything off then on again and it logged in fine with the following notes:
  • No display, every pixel was lit, so just a big rectangle.
  • Force Feed Back very weak.
  • A slight notch could be felt every so often, like a little click when turning... and it could also he heard with the volume down, but that is all that could be heard, apart from that it was silent.
So, no option but to update firmware which I did using 455. That was straight forward but afterwards the wheel needed re calibration. Once I'd worked that out it seems to be fine.
  • The display is working as it should, albeit limited for now. It does look a bit dim though so I need to check that out.
  • Force Feed Back seems strong, will be checking @PirovacBoy settings soon.
  • The slight notch is gone and it is still perfectly silent although I have only used it for like 5 minutes so will keep an ear on that.
Next job is swap the QR2 Lite for QR2 (Edit - I forgot to mention, the screws holding the QR2 Lite were not very tight out of the box, but the manual for the QR2 does say only 3nm which isn't very tight. I'm going to be careful tightening them)

The quality of the Extreme really does make the Pro look like a toy, it's lovely to use and as for magnetic shifters... it's the first time I've used them, and I won't be going back!
I am happy for you that your GT DD+ Extreme out the box is working out for you fine.
I got my Gran Turismo DD+ Extreme delivered on 03/01/24; from FedEx.
FANATED ORDER #: 1921837.
Excited, happily mounted it, it turned on, wheel went round and round upon booting. Put it into my PS5, doesn’t seem to be recognized so I figure it might need that first firmware update. So I go connect it to my PC to update the firmware. I follow the instructions exactly. When I go look, the power button is no longer lit up or red; the wheel however, all 4 analogs are lit up white. Pressing buttons on the wheel does nothing; holding the power button for 3 seconds and 10 seconds does nothing. The wheel and base both are completely unresponsive. Not once was I ever able to properly use it or play a game with it. As for the situation on my hand, some forums say its defective out the box, some say the firmware crashed and bricked it. Either way, as anyone spending that amount of money can imagine, a new item out the box should not be having these issues. As of this moment all I want to do is send it back, mand get my money back FOR A FULL REFUND, which in fact I have already started the refund process on 03/01/24 a day here we are 03/08/24 and FANATEC has not replied. I am so disappointed in Fanatec selling me something that doesn’t work out the box.
 
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Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect this wheel to a PS5 instead of using the provided cable?
 
Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect this wheel to a PS5 instead of using the provided cable?
There was a similar question on the FANATEC forums regarding the DD Pro. If memory serves, the answer was it doesn't matter. There's no performance difference.
 
I am happy for you that your GT DD+ Extreme out the box is working out for you fine.
I got my Gran Turismo DD+ Extreme delivered on 03/01/24; from FedEx.
FANATED ORDER #: 1921837.
Excited, happily mounted it, it turned on, wheel went round and round upon booting. Put it into my PS5, doesn’t seem to be recognized so I figure it might need that first firmware update. So I go connect it to my PC to update the firmware. I follow the instructions exactly. When I go look, the power button is no longer lit up or red; the wheel however, all 4 analogs are lit up white. Pressing buttons on the wheel does nothing; holding the power button for 3 seconds and 10 seconds does nothing. The wheel and base both are completely unresponsive. Not once was I ever able to properly use it or play a game with it. As for the situation on my hand, some forums say its defective out the box, some say the firmware crashed and bricked it. Either way, as anyone spending that amount of money can imagine, a new item out the box should not be having these issues. As of this moment all I want to do is send it back, mand get my money back FOR A FULL REFUND, which in fact I have already started the refund process on 03/01/24 a day here we are 03/08/24 and FANATEC has not replied. I am so disappointed in Fanatec selling me something that doesn’t work out the box.
Sorry to hear about the issues you've encountered. The white lights if I recall mean something went wrong in loading firmware or is stuck. Either way, I think only FANATEC can bring it back to life, but they will let you know for sure. Just know, right now their support correspondence is 2-3 weeks behind per their official forums. I put in my support ticket yesterday, so that clock is ticking. Good luck man. Hope they can hopefully walk you through resurrecting it without sending it back.
 
FMW
Sorry to hear about the issues you've encountered. The white lights if I recall mean something went wrong in loading firmware or is stuck. Either way, I think only FANATEC can bring it back to life, but they will let you know for sure. Just know, right now their support correspondence is 2-3 weeks behind per their official forums. I put in my support ticket yesterday, so that clock is ticking. Good luck man. Hope they can hopefully walk you through resurrecting it without sending it back.

FMW
Sorry to hear about the issues you've encountered. The white lights if I recall mean something went wrong in loading firmware or is stuck. Either way, I think only FANATEC can bring it back to life, but they will let you know for sure. Just know, right now their support correspondence is 2-3 weeks behind per their official forums. I put in my support ticket yesterday, so that clock is ticking. Good luck man. Hope they can hopefully walk you through resurrecting it without sending it back.
Thank you, my
FMW
Sorry to hear about the issues you've encountered. The white lights if I recall mean something went wrong in loading firmware or is stuck. Either way, I think only FANATEC can bring it back to life, but they will let you know for sure. Just know, right now their support correspondence is 2-3 weeks behind per their official forums. I put in my support ticket yesterday, so that clock is ticking. Good luck man. Hope they can hopefully walk you through resurrecting it without sending it back.
Thank you for the feedback, my thing is, don’t get me wrong, I do want the unit, however, with all their shenanigans and shortcomings, especially with how long they take to repair RMA’s and return them, not to mention, I paid for a BRAND NEW UNIT, not for me to have to get it repaired coming out the box new and not ever actually using it or for a refurbished unit, so for that reason I have decided to want to send it back and get a refund. Once I get the refund, at that moment I will have the choice of repurchasing it or waiting to see in the forums that their firmwares have been updated and working. As you mentioned, you said the clock is ticking, you opened my eyes to something because I am wondering if by the time the do answer my email request for RMA Refund, will that count as the 14 day return policy against me lets say if they reply on the 15th or 16th day despite me emailing them the same day I received it and noticed it was bricked.
 
Thank you, my

Thank you for the feedback, my thing is, don’t get me wrong, I do want the unit, however, with all their shenanigans and shortcomings, especially with how long they take to repair RMA’s and return them, not to mention, I paid for a BRAND NEW UNIT, not for me to have to get it repaired coming out the box new and not ever actually using it or for a refurbished unit, so for that reason I have decided to want to send it back and get a refund. Once I get the refund, at that moment I will have the choice of repurchasing it or waiting to see in the forums that their firmwares have been updated and working. As you mentioned, you said the clock is ticking, you opened my eyes to something because I am wondering if by the time the do answer my email request for RMA Refund, will that count as the 14 day return policy against me lets say if they reply on the 15th or 16th day despite me emailing them the same day I received it and noticed it was bricked.
Oh no, that really sucks and I really feel for you!

Whilst updating the firmware of mine I did have a bit of a scare! I can't remember at exactly what stage it was, but it hung, and nothing was happening - the mouse pointer had that little spinning wheel. I waited for ages and nothing happened, just the spinning wheel, so I had to just close it all down. Incidentally when I first updated I did it with the wheel removed... but at some point it asked for it to be put on. Luckily apart from that one little scare it was straight forward.

Here in the UK we can do something called a charge back... if there is a problem with something you can call the bank and they will reverse the payment. Do you have anything like that? As you already mentioned, if you don't get a response in a reasonable time the 14 days will be up... that might be a good enough reason to talk to your bank?

Then, you could just order up another one and hopefully get it all sorted reasonably quickly...

I hope you get it sorted soon...
 
Hello everyone I just wanted to share a quick update on my DD + Settings for GT7
These have now been finalized and approved to give the best driving experience in my opinion

The following Settings are for GT7

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 95
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 3
Sensitivity 7

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

Hope u Guys enjoy them

Cheers 🙌
@PirovacBoy

My DD Extreme arrived Friday and I got it all set up on my rig but only had time for one race and haven't been able to get back on it since, but I'm looking forward to getting on it later tonight, and I think it's going to be a late one! I definitely want to try some other settings from this thread and looking forward to trying yours. Are these still the way to go since the update?

Also, a quick question... Going back to the GT DD Pro (8nm) sometimes my wheel would go out of sync with the PS5 on boot... The steering would be fine but any button push had a slight delay and that included gear shifting which was a problem. It didn't happen often, maybe a couple of times a week, and a reboot always fixed it. You ever had that?
 
@PirovacBoy

My DD Extreme arrived Friday and I got it all set up on my rig but only had time for one race and haven't been able to get back on it since, but I'm looking forward to getting on it later tonight, and I think it's going to be a late one! I definitely want to try some other settings from this thread and looking forward to trying yours. Are these still the way to go since the update?

Also, a quick question... Going back to the GT DD Pro (8nm) sometimes my wheel would go out of sync with the PS5 on boot... The steering would be fine but any button push had a slight delay and that included gear shifting which was a problem. It didn't happen often, maybe a couple of times a week, and a reboot always fixed it. You ever had that?
Hello there,
The following Settings are for GT7

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 100
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 5
Sensitivity 7

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

And no I never had that delay issue on my DD Pro.
The only issue I randomly had was that the wheel became firmer.
I quite loved it and was trying to figure out how I can tune the Base to permanently have this heavy and firm feeling.
Unfortunately no matter what I tried I was not able to replicate it.
No idea what it was but it felt awesome.
Reminds me alot of my current settings on the DD Extreme and I'm very happy with these Settings.

Good luck with your Wheel and hope you have a great time driving with them Settings.

They are definitely top Notch and spot on in terms of anything that you need to have an authentic ride.
 
Hello there,
The following Settings are for GT7

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 100
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 5
Sensitivity 7

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1
Excellent...... thank you!

And no I never had that delay issue on my DD Pro.
Humm..... maybe it's only me then! It will be interesting to see if it still happens for me with the Extreme.

The only issue I randomly had was that the wheel became firmer.
... oh yes - I got that one, too! If that happens with the Extreme I might damage myself :lol:
 
It's funny my wheel seems to work fine until I get into front wheel drive cars. I think it only happens in front drive cars, but will have to test it more to be sure. It's doing the same thing my GT DD Pro used to do but a lot worse. Basically the steering animation and input stops working when going around a corner and then starts working again. I hope it is bug that'll be fixed when they put out the new FW and drivers but it seems to be different than the random disconnect problem which hasn't been a problem since I sorted my firmware on the wheel / base/ QR.

It happens really bad in that weekly special event. Car - R4 GTL '85 with some tuning, I think RS tires.
I'm not sure if it's a Fanatec bug or a GT7 bug or a compatibility issue.

Maybe that's why the certification from Sony was held up on this wheel though, bugs like this and the FW problems. 🤷‍♂️

Quick vid showing the bug... happening to anyone else?

 
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