NASCAR - 41.XXX @ Daytona Speedway

  • Thread starter krautfed
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killerjimbag
Thanks for some common sense.Not trying to be an idiot,how do you figure you were the first to do break 42 sec and do 30 laps?
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try re-reading i said one of the first ,as i cant speak for the rooms i wasnt in or other people i have not raced with ,but i was doing that in the end of november begining of december , i raced with a lot of people and was beating everyone in a race over 25 laps ,at that point i was even accused of cheating ,running a program that stopped my tyres from wearing lol ,things got so bad i had to give my daytona set up out just to clear my name
 
killerjimbag
No one and I will repeat NO ONE can run a 38 second lap out of the draft using an 892 or in your case lower HP Nascar without cheating,lag,or a glitch at Daytona .If you are seeing 2 second laps it's a glitch lag issue.Thanks for the tip's about drafting and a smooth line, I think I might just try that. Horsepower is just a number?I think you have been going in circles to long.
0 is also a number and will be about how many more of my posts you will see regarding your comments about this.
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Can you read? The people running those laps are CHEATERS. But I guess you cannot read very well. Glad people can be blocked here.
 
To keep the thread productive I will say I ran 41.74 in practice at daytona with a default set 249 top speed (have yet to touch gear ratios). The first thought when I read up on the 1.06 release was in regards to the weight ballast adjustment. Add a minimum amount of weight and put it all the way in the rear. Now you can put ride height 15 front and -15 in the rear and its much more driveable than without the weight. Low line all the way camber at .7 front/rear.

If anybody has a way to get gear ratios to improve times I would love to hear it. The car drives a lot different in practice than it does online though. I doubt they'll ever fix that...
 
I suspect a smart gear ratios set-up will save fuel and in result shorten pit stop time in those long races :)



BTW ^^^

WOW
 
DarkWarrior1113
To keep the thread productive I will say I ran 41.74 in practice at daytona with a default set 249 top speed (have yet to touch gear ratios). The first thought when I read up on the 1.06 release was in regards to the weight ballast adjustment. Add a minimum amount of weight and put it all the way in the rear. Now you can put ride height 15 front and -15 in the rear and its much more driveable than without the weight. Low line all the way camber at .7 front/rear.

If anybody has a way to get gear ratios to improve times I would love to hear it. The car drives a lot different in practice than it does online though. I doubt they'll ever fix that...
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I'll repeat what I posted.Change the final gear ratio.
 
killerjimbag
I'll repeat what I posted.Change the final gear ratio.
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If you add weight to the rear you are adding weight to the dampers,springs,and tires.Add weight to these things and you can expect more tire wear and ultimately worse fuel consumption without a proper tune.
I have changed the final gear ratio and did some minor tweaking to the rear set-up.I will post after the DAYTONA 500 is over.
 
Watched the pre-race Daytona commentary and they are only running 450 HP according to Pemberton. That seems strange.
With restricted motors:
420-450 flywheel horsepower, depending on the size of the restrictor plate.

crazy:
 
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What can be done to make the car "still" or smooth through turns? Constantly slightly sawing on the wheel. I turn in, there's a delay, then oversteer, then turn back to the right, then left, then right, then left, then right, then a rest on a straight. Then it all starts again.

I can run in a tight draft because of of the oversteer. I'm not even putting much wheel into it.

With the GT3rs, adding a little linearity reduces the oversteer, but I have to put more wheel into it.

When I'm running by myself, I'm relatively ok. But if I'm drafting, either pushing or leading, I can't hold a line with this delayed oversteer. The rear isn't coming around.

I wish we could adjust the steering angle like GT5p, using the 30 setting dialed this out.

:(
 
I love the set up, I watched the Daytona 500 and decided it was time to do some Nascar racing, applied your tune and my first race was a full grid, I started from the back and then blew them all away... nuts i'm not even that great, thanks.
 
Very, very good tune. I'm in no way a good driver at NASCAR. I'm not consistent enough on my driving line, which costs quite a bit of tire wear. However, with this tune I easily get 25 laps of full throttle racing on Daytona. I'm a lot more competative than I was before, so OP: THANK YOU.
 
krautfed
Since noone likes to share NASCAR Speedway setups, I'll give out mine that will fairly easily crack 41 seconds at Daytona without drafting and using a controller (sticks). I am a complete noob and just started tinkering, but apparently it is semi difficult to get a car sub-42 seconds at Daytona and I've had many people online wanting my car (for it's setup).

UPDATE: 1-13-2011

CURRENT BEST w/o DRAFTING + TIRE WEAR + FUEL CONSUMPTION: 41.680

TUNER'S NOTES: This is pretty much a specialized tune because it is only useful at Daytona Superspeedway. Racing at Daytona is about four things in this order... 1) drafting 2) handling wrecks/bumps 3) pit strategy 4) solo speed. This thread addresses #4, the shear by yourself lap speed. Solo speed is very important in longer races (i.e. online) where going .01 second faster than an opponent can either let you catch his/her draft, or defend and not allow someone to catch your draft. I'll type more notes at the end of this post.

CAR: 2010 Jimmie Johnson #48 Impala (@892hp/1565kg) Like I said, I'm a noob and I don't know if the different NASCARs have different characteristics.

GT Auto / Maintenance & Service: Oil change... very important

BODY/CHASSIS: Purchase Chassis Reinforcement... very important
-Aero: 20f/40f (lowest settings)

EXHAUST: Titanium Racing (duh)

TRANNY: Fully Customizable (duh)
-Top Speed: 236mph (for no draft running)
-Top Speed: 249mph (for draft running)

DRIVETRAIN: Adjustable LSD
- 60/60/15

SUSPENSION: Full Custom (duh)
-Ride Height: 15f/15r
-Spring Rate: 18.5f/18.5r
-Extension: 8f/4r
-Compression: 8f/4r
-Anti-Roll: 4f/4r

-camber: 6.0f/1.8r
-toe: -0.15f/0.00r

TIRES: Racing Soft (but I may be working on a Racing Hard tune for those pit strategists)

ADVANCED NOTES PREPARE FOR RUN ON SENTENCES AND PARAGRAPHS: It appears that some setting changes have absolutely zero effect on the NASCAR. Spring Rate is suprisingly one of them, but I'm still tinkering. One of my biggest breakthroughs was finding that the car will accelerate quicker, and therefore achieve a higher straight away speed if the camber is set extreme like I have it. Another observation is that changing the camber has zero effect on straightaway tracking (wandering) like it's supposed to in real cars... seems GT5 doesnt have it. If your car tracks, it is tire wear or mechanical damage. It only takes one spin out to ruin a new set of tires. Speaking of needing to pit, these settings actually prefer the added weight of fuel. I have not gotten that deep into testing yet but this may open some doors on pit strategy... i.e. never NOT get fuel.

41 SECOND TIPS: This setup can be touchy, but not as touchy as some of the tunes I've taken from GTP and ran. In fact I've had several tunes with slightly quicker section 1/2 times but turning to the trioval proved too hairy to keep speed. Anyway, these are target speeds for different sections... and remember it takes 3-4 laps to achieve top speed. Honestly If you nail these, you are sub 41.800

START/FINISH/TRIOVAL: 215mph
TURN 1/2: >205 mph... stay low but not too close to yellow stripe
BACKSTRETCH: 220 mph before turn 3/4... key is to ease out wide from turn 1/2
TURN 3/4: >205 mph... stay low again.

Link laps together like this and you will have pretty consistent 41.7XX-41.9XX laps before tire wear and fuel consumption catches you. With even sloppy driving, consistent 42.0XXs are pretty easy, which is why I recommend this tune and not any BETAs I'm working on. This setup is also relatively stable after you run about 20-30 laps to get used to the setup.

Keep in mind 41 second times with this setup are for SOLO DRIVING, cutting to the inside in corners and outside on the straights is a trainwreck waiting to happen with traffic. If you hold your line, either low side or high side, expect a +.200 to be added to your lap times, which are still not that bad for single line races.

ENDURANCE: I've been able to easily pull 41.XXX for at least 10 laps. 42.0XX for at least 15 laps. 15-20 laps I can manage 42.1XX laps. After 20 laps its a pretty steep dropoff, by lap 25 I hover with mid 42's (42.4XX to 42.7XX). Then there is a brick wall and seems that 26 & 27, you are on skates and sliding around near or over the 43 second mark. EXTREME caution must be taken around lap 25 and higher. I would highly advise pitting around lap 25, but keep in mind this is without drafting.

CAN SOMEONE WITH A WHEEL TEST THIS SETUP ???

UPDATE 1/13/2011... changed Top Speed to 236 and broke into 41.6XX territory.

UPDATE 1/19/2011... In an effort to get better tire life, I changed rear extension and compression from 6 to 4 to combat oversteer. I also set anti-roll from 7/6 to 4/4. I also increased front camber from 4.5 to 6 and lowered rear camber from 3.5 to 1.8. The toe was also changed in opposite directions from -.05/.30 to -.15/0.00. In my opinion, tire wear was increased and 30 laps is easy, max tested has been 35 laps (all on racing soft)
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Great setup, thank you :) Just used it for the A spec and won every race apart from the last when i went on the side and had 4 wheels on the wall :( All i did was adjust the transmission for each race depending on track

Cheers for the help
 
krautfed
Just raced with the USS guys again. USS_Anchor ran 40 laps on 1 set of tires with them all worn the same (I backed out of the race cause my mic went out and I had crashed... 2 laps down after pitting). He ran 40 laps in 28:XX:XXX which means he averaged 42-43 seconds the entire race.
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I'am USS_Anchor i don't know where some people are getting that i run on rain tires or have said that i run on rain tires,not true.Krautfed is a good racer and enjoy running with him,top notch dude.But just to set the record correct for everyone I have run 50 laps at daytona on one set of tires[soft] and 1 tank of fuel its not easy and everything has to fall into place for it to happen.I have run 48 and 49 laps on 1 set of tires numerous times but only a few 50's to show for it. It is out there for everyone just be patience.
 
USS_Anchor
I'am USS_Anchor i don't know where some people are getting that i run on rain tires or have said that i run on rain tires,not true.Krautfed is a good racer and enjoy running with him,top notch dude.But just to set the record correct for everyone I have run 50 laps at daytona on one set of tires[soft] and 1 tank of fuel its not easy and everything has to fall into place for it to happen.I have run 48 and 49 laps on 1 set of tires numerous times but only a few 50's to show for it. It is out there for everyone just be patience.
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Please clean up your spelling/ punctuation in future - I'm not going to do it for you 👍
 
i stopped doing daytona back in mid december after i cracked the 35 lap mark on a set of tyres as going beyond that ,was like a job espicially on a controller to do it once was ok ,twice was tedium ,to do every time took the fun out of it

but 50 is the most ive ever heard without pitting ,well done for pushing the boundries even further
 
Yeah some scary stuff there, running around 50 laps on same set of tires. Best I've done is 35 laps and I don't intend to go any further.
 
50 laps on one set of tyres, I could pit and catch you as your tyre wear at the end would make you so slow you'd lose over 5 seconds per lap. 40 laps with a 41.xxx tune is decent enough now to stay on race pace, my wheel tune now does 41.4 and I will go around 35-40 before I pit depending on the situation. 50 laps would not be worth pushing for and fuel would actually be so close to running out you'd have little to no room for error from lap 1. EDIT: Which happens once in 500 races I find.
 
Yes GTP_Kazama 50 laps is not for everyone. And like I said everything has to fall into place to make it happen. It is not something that is going happen every time. But is sure was fun going for it.
 
USS_Anchor
Yes GTP_Kazama 50 laps is not for everyone. And like I said everything has to fall into place to make it happen. It is not something that is going happen every time. But is sure was fun going for it.
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Yes and the people who run 50 laps usually get quite upset when you bump draft.
 
Some do and some don't. Bump drafting is racing,the same as how much fuel do you take. And when to pit or don't pit. It is all good racing. The fastest does not always make it to the finish line first. And alot of times they do.
 
I hope this stuff can help my performance Sat nights. My friends get setups from one place or another and then it's a big secret and nobody share anything. I thank you for your info and look forward to it in the on coming events......Bob:)
 
DaveTheStalker
What can be done to make the car "still" or smooth through turns? Constantly slightly sawing on the wheel. I turn in, there's a delay, then oversteer, then turn back to the right, then left, then right, then left, then right, then a rest on a straight. Then it all starts again.

I can run in a tight draft because of of the oversteer. I'm not even putting much wheel into it.

With the GT3rs, adding a little linearity reduces the oversteer, but I have to put more wheel into it.

When I'm running by myself, I'm relatively ok. But if I'm drafting, either pushing or leading, I can't hold a line with this delayed oversteer. The rear isn't coming around.

I wish we could adjust the steering angle like GT5p, using the 30 setting dialed this out.

:(
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Did you change the steering angle on the wheel? I run it at 750 degrees for NASCAR. I found 270 was default which made it hard to turn slightly. This function is just like GT5P's turning angle setting :sly: Great investement.👍
 
i figured something out
if you listen to the nascars start up when you change cars the toyota and the chevy sound the same, but the ford sounds different
 
Well I have to say thank you to all the Setup contributors of this thread,. I was having a lot of trouble with Daytona, to the point I wanted to swear off NASCAR for eternity.

After reading this thread, and all the comments people have added, I was finally able to piece together a setup that helped me win at Daytona.
I won by .098 seconds, crossed the finish line with my front bumper facing the infield, in what was THE MOST exciting race finish I have had with GT5 thus far.

I was steadily making my way to the front of the second Draft pack from lap 1-6, at the end of lap seven I had made my way out in front of the lead draft pack right at the start-finish line.
By the end of lap nine, I was what I thought in my mind was quite a comfortable lead. <I was in front anyway>

Then comes corner four, lap ten,. That lead I thought I had just a couple of minutes ago, looked like it was about to slip out from under me.

I tried not to panic,. remembering some comments I had read here. and positioned myself as much in their oncoming way as I could.
Hard to block what was now a Two Wide Steam Roller stacked four to five deep in each row.

Well I didn't know who took my rear end out from me as I crossed the finish line, feeling like I was in a Tornado, until I watched the replay.

Number "88" started to go high, as I was starting to head low.

All in all, it was a fun exciting race, and I got my gold trophy.

Thanks everyone for your help with the NASCAR setups
 

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