600pp superGT

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Let me guess, you're using a wheel.
I don't use a wheel and I agree with him. The worse you are, the better SRF will make you. The difference for an experienced driver is much more negligible.
I am of the opinion that proper tuning of the LSD can improve lap times as much as SRF. You will be faster with SRF, no question, but the difference isn't as much if the LSD is properly tuned and the driver has the experience of driving the car without SRF.
 
I am using Raybrig Honda NSX with stage 3 turbo and additional weight to meet PP requirements. I won all except Special stage route 5 (I didn't have time to do it). I'll try it today.
 
Ran this in the Diablo GT-1. Trounced everything easily!
Can we have something more taxing please?
 
The worse you are, the better SRF will make you. The difference for an experienced driver is much more negligible.

There's nothing negligible about it, the only difference is better drivers don't naturally drive in a way that takes advantage of how SRF works. But... if an amazing driver purposely drives (and sets up) a car to maximize the use of SRF, they can still gain ungodly amounts of time on the track. WRS guys spend weeks shaving tenths off their lap times. An hour with SRF, and they can shave 1-3 full seconds per lap. Luckily, all real racing takes place with the option restricted.
 
I made these events more challenging for myself, I'm going to use a different car for every event with no suspension tuning, also using manual transmission and no aids except abs 1. I used the Raybrig NSX for Tokyo, ran 1:41 laps at 595pp, took two attempts though because I hit the outside wall exiting turn one and spun out on the 3rd lap my first try and ended up losing by half a second, I won by 7 seconds the second try. I own every premium car so I just want to try them all out, so far I'm really enjoying this seasonal.
 
I don't use a wheel and I agree with him. The worse you are, the better SRF will make you. The difference for an experienced driver is much more negligible.
I am of the opinion that proper tuning of the LSD can improve lap times as much as SRF. You will be faster with SRF, no question, but the difference isn't as much if the LSD is properly tuned and the driver has the experience of driving the car without SRF.


Everyone is entitled to an opinion so here is mine.
I for one use SRF as I am driving with a DS3 controller. The controller has little to no throttle control which means you cant get the laptimes down by feathering the throttle through the middle of the corner. With the SRF off the minute you get back on the throttle all hell breaks loose.
If a person wants to leave it off, or on for that matter, go for it I say but I dont think its necessary to rub it in everyones nose that you are a superior driver, in a simulator game, just because you can. Some people like me are only driving for the fun of it and really dont care if theyre in the top 1000 in a seasonal. I for one only get maybe 3 hours playing time in a week, whereas most people on here play that much in a day. Its all relative.
 
I think that's a good point Stevenk regarding using the controller compared to a wheel. I use a controller myself, buttons only, and often have trouble allowing the right amount of power to the wheels, especially when exiting corners.

My method is to tap tap tap the button to gain some control, although back in the GT3 days, when my now adult sons were playing, they were able to control the buttons like an accelerator, something I never could.

I have no problem whatsoever with those I am up against in TT's who have a wheel, as I said on another thread here not long ago, good on them, however your comment is a valid one in my mind and relevant.

I would be interested in hearing from some of the quicker racers here if they think that perhaps SRF with a controller is roughly equivalent to using a wheel.
 
There's nothing negligible about it, the only difference is better drivers don't naturally drive in a way that takes advantage of how SRF works. But... if an amazing driver purposely drives (and sets up) a car to maximize the use of SRF, they can still gain ungodly amounts of time on the track. WRS guys spend weeks shaving tenths off their lap times. An hour with SRF, and they can shave 1-3 full seconds per lap. Luckily, all real racing takes place with the option restricted.

This is correct... SRF is a huge advantage vs even a well tuned car with SRF off.
 
..clipped..I would be interested in hearing from some of the quicker racers here if they think that perhaps SRF with a controller is roughly equivalent to using a wheel.

I'm definitely not one of the quicker racers but even for me I find that the SRF function is just too intrusive to enable me to enjoy the game. It really does force you to drive with a unique style in order to get the best out of the function.

I don't use it unless PD forces me (grrr) but I have absolutely no issues with anyone that wants to use the function. It's there so everyone at all levels can enjoy the game and be competitive together.

For those that find the seasonal races a tad difficult then I'd recommend that they try them with SRF turned on. It will certainly give valuable assistance in order to get that gold and the prize not to mention that feeling of smug self satisfaction at beating the AI....again :)

p.s. I'm a DS3 user
 
I'm getting better....."I learn Mr Fawlty, I learn.".......at the game. In reply to a question here once, someone answered something like, keep doing the race over and over until you learn every thing you can about it and start doing things without having to think about them first.

I know that's true as that is how we all better our TT times.

Probably Stotty is correct when he says SRF is worth more than using a wheel. I know it enabled me to take the lead at Tokyo at the end of lap 4 whereas without it I was well behind at that point.

Maybe we can call it a sort of handicapper, as it certainly gives those of us lower down the rung in ability (and it must be said, without wheels) a leg up and a chance to get a bit closer to those at the top.

Anyway, I'm going to try and lower the PP at Tokyo, albeit using SRF, and see how it goes.
 
Just tried Tokyo at 575PP with SRF and won by over 8 seconds to the Nismo. Best lap 1:41.9. Took the lead about halfway into 4th lap. Won $1,453,800, had I had less than 20 mil.

That is faster than I did with 600PP, although it was only a single lap, like this one. Will go lower.

Won at 550PP by 1/10 of a sec. Won $1,919,016. May be room to go lower. Best lap was 1:43.3.

Try 540PP.

The Nismo beat me by 2 secs, at 540PP ,however I bumped the side once or twice and think I can improve on that. Maybe a few beers ago I might have even won it. 2nd was $1,172,732.

Leave it till tomorrow now. Cheers.
 
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Nexviator79
I did them all in the Yellowhat. My reward: Denny Hamlin's racecar!!!!!!

Haha... I went to high school with him. He was a freshman when I was a senior.
 
I use a DS3 and I don't use SFR but I have traction control on about 3. If you use the triggers with practice it is possible to feather the throttle mid corner and then even if you get it a bit wrong the traction control gives you enough time to correct. It may sound obvious but rear aero also helps loads with the corner exit control.
 
There's nothing negligible about it, the only difference is better drivers don't naturally drive in a way that takes advantage of how SRF works. But... if an amazing driver purposely drives (and sets up) a car to maximize the use of SRF, they can still gain ungodly amounts of time on the track. WRS guys spend weeks shaving tenths off their lap times. An hour with SRF, and they can shave 1-3 full seconds per lap. Luckily, all real racing takes place with the option restricted.

Once again, couldn't agree more with you. If I were to put SRF on, I would suddenly become Superman. Tried it once just as an experiment. Felt like Tom Cruise in Days Of Thunder,:lol: "There's nothing I can't do with a racecar." I took about 2.8 seconds off my laptime and felt like I was cheating. I felt so dirty afterword that I had to go to confession:lol: "Forgive me Lord, for I have sinned."

Sorry, not a knock on anyone who uses SRF, just how I feel and my opinion of it.
 
Has anyone else taken a shot with a low PP number?

Just won them all with the Weider HSV-010 at 550pp using the following set-up

Max power 374bhp
Weight 1125kg
PP 550

Ballast 25kg @ pos 25 to give 49:50
Power level 76.5%
Height -10 -5
Rate 13.8 14.8
Ext 7 8
Com 7 8
ARB 6 6
Camber 2.0 1.5
Toe -0.10 0.10
LSD 9:25:13
Downforce 30:50
BB 3:2

Transmission
1st 3.599
2nd 2.784
3rd 2.221
4th 1.823
5th 1.540
6th 1.339
Final 3.978
Max Speed (top figure) 165mph

Note: I dropped the max speed to 145 for Tsukuba

I ran with no aids except ABS=1, aside from R246 they were pretty easy and the pp could go down a few more notches especially for SSR5.
 
What I like about driving the new Honda Weider, is that you can basically tune it anyway you want to (within reason), and have a winning car with it. It doesn't bark at you for minor tuning adjustments like more than 800 existing in game cars tend to react and punish your tuning efforts. Tokyo is fun at 550pp, a challenge, but you can take so much almost flat out, anticipating the blind high speed turns. Love that track.
 
Just finish this seasonal with Raybrig Honda NSX. What a joy and fun this car is to ride. And what a disappointment for a prize winning car.....
 
Decided to take a break with the WRS TT for a bit and see if I could have some fun with these. Honda HSV at Suzuka powered down to 541 PP. (312 hp) Won the race with a payout of 1,813,759. Not a record payout by any means and only selected this track as its one of my favorites. Back to the TT's.
 
No, you do not have my permission to guess.

Let me guess, people from Texas have no sense of humor.

Back on topic, DS3 drivers; with TC and SRF turned off, what do you guys use for controls to make the car more controllable when you exit a corner?

First of, I know the right tune, especially LSD and aero are important. Less important is the transmission and ridehight from what im getting. After you have everything perfectly tuned, what method do you think is the best suited for when you exit corners?

I for one am one of the few probably that uses the right analog stick for accelerating and braking, it works good but definitely not even close to a real pedal. The triggers might be even better controllable but i use them for shifting (thinking about switching actually, without aids the analog is much harder to properly balance imo). Does anybody manage top times with the buttons? I used this method back in the gt1/2 days, tapping is the answer obviously but that seems to much of a hassle for me personally.

Anyway I am decent in gt5 but I hardly ever play the game, trying it with no aids on a DS3 woke me up just how much I suck (and just how much the DS3 sucks without the proper training). I will be trying oinks tune to see just how much it helps, if it's not enough I might change my controls accelerating and braking from analog to triggers. If that doesn't help I'll either put TC or SRF on till I actually buy a wheel.
 
I used SRF until a few months ago and now find i am much quicker round tracks without it.
 
Fellow DS3 user here,

TC and SRF off

Analog sticks for controls

Agreed that a good tune especially LSD, Camber and Toe settings help getting the power down!

The other thing I try and do is keep the use of the power limiter to a minimum, why add the stage 3 turbo and all the extra down force you can - to just pull back further on the PL% - and then comment its too easy..

Quick question;
Do AI cars get different gear ratios and down force settings for differing tracks?
Or do they always run the same settings?
 
Fellow DS3 user here,

TC and SRF off

Analog sticks for controls

Agreed that a good tune especially LSD, Camber and Toe settings help getting the power down!

The other thing I try and do is keep the use of the power limiter to a minimum, why add the stage 3 turbo and all the extra down force you can - to just pull back further on the PL% - and then comment its too easy..

Quick question;
Do AI cars get different gear ratios and down force settings for differing tracks?
Or do they always run the same settings?

I think they always run the same setting I'm not very sure.
 
Fellow DS3 user here,

TC and SRF off

Analog sticks for controls

Agreed that a good tune especially LSD, Camber and Toe settings help getting the power down!

The other thing I try and do is keep the use of the power limiter to a minimum, why add the stage 3 turbo and all the extra down force you can - to just pull back further on the PL% - and then comment its too easy..

Quick question;
Do AI cars get different gear ratios and down force settings for differing tracks?
Or do they always run the same settings?

They always run the default gear ratios, and I'm certain (though without proof) that they use stock aero and suspension settings as well. They do sometimes upgrade street cars as some of them have much more power than stock, but I highly doubt that whatever parts they add are set to anything but default values.

There's actually at least one race (the first one with proper GT cars in it) where a number of cars are dramatically de-tuned somehow. I'm not sure how they accomplish this as it was like that even before the power limiter was added. It rather annoyed me as I saw the Camaro LM was in the race so I waited to do it until I could get my hands on one, only to find out that the one the AI drove had half the power mine did.

But the gears for sure are always default. If you set your transmission up in a one-make event like the FGT races, you can easily tell your car from the others in the pre-race screens when it goes by on the fast straights as it is the only one that is in the right rpm range, while the others are all revving way too low or bouncing off the limiter. They always hit the limiter (if they can) at the same speed on every track as well, if you watch them when you are racing them.




EDIT: Triggers for gas/brake, X and square for shifting here... when I am using DS3. I was reluctant to switch to triggers at first but after playing enough games that forced me to use them I got used to it.

Throttle response on the DS3 is not linear which makes controlling it very difficult without a lot of practice. Some people say it is better on the analog stick, but I found it to react the same uneven way as it does with the trigger, so I switched back to L2/R2 for easier access to the brake. It might seem a little unusual at first, but some people use the stick for gas and a trigger for the brake, which lets you use both if you need to while still having the old standard stick-throttle.

Brake response is perfectly linear and so braking even without ABS is no problem on the DS3 with only a little practice. Since I use my wheel most of the time, I have a lot of trouble adjusting to the odd throttle and steering, but two or three hard braking maneuvers and that comes right back.
 
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i fought this seasonal for two days and could not get gold on any till i read turn on srf.i then got gold on all.this is a wake up call for me.
 
i fought this seasonal for two days and could not get gold on any till i read turn on srf.i then got gold on all.this is a wake up call for me.

I fear it's not the correct one. 👎
 
Just wrapped up... I gave Tokyo R246 another try. I went from Honda power to Nissan power. I decided to go from my Stage 2 Turbo-equipped EPSON NSX to a downtuned 2006 XANAVI NISMO Z. The end result? I restarted again after some poor driving on Lap 2 at Tokyo R246. But this time, I won the race! I was a bit surprised the pace I was running with the NISMO Z. When I ran with the EPSON NSX at Tokyo R246, I lost to the winning car by seven seconds. My NISMO Z won by four seconds over the 2nd Place car. I chose the NISMO Z Super GT car basically on Performance Points. I then downtuned it to meet the 600PP limit. So I tuned it down to 90% power.

With this victory, I'll try my hand at Special Stage Route 5 with the NISMO Z. I'll probably tell you how that goes if and when I clear that one.
 
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