A Lesson Learned.

Originally posted by Shinez
So that means if you were to test out it's specs..It's Torque #'s wouldn't apply for first or second...Because if it has a smaller Turbo and spools quickly..it would add to torque, meaning in 1st and 2nd gear it's TQ isn't that great

or not as high. it is electronically limited at first and 2nd
peak torque would be achieved in 3rd gear, and theres a fair amount of it. the turbo isnt small, but electronically controlled
 
I've learned that the only way to play GT3 is with ASM and TCS off with sim tires, on all cars in all races. (with the possible exeption of an endurance race [ASM and TCS still off, but maybe with some slicks], and obviously rallies [dirt tires don't ya know, but ASM and TCS still stay off])
 
I'm not kidding. I played through 95% of the game (literally) with the ACS and TCS on. Then while reading magazine articles about the Evo 7, I read how the writer loved how he could enter turns at high speeds, flick it into a drift and have the four-wheel drive pull him out of it. So, I tried this "drifting" with my red 500hp Evo 7 and couldn’t pull it off, no drift angle, no slipping. I would just plow straight into the wall without the rear ever breaking free. I thought, "what the hell is going on here Mr. 'Real Driving Simulator'". Then I remembered how the Evo 7 has all that LSD and center diff. voodoo going on with the active yaw control and such, then realized "Hey, TVRs don't have any traction control in real life, so why does it have it in the game?" So, I went about turning it off, and tried the turn again and yelled "HOLY CRAP" when I went through the turn sideways, and THEN hit the wall. From then on, I knew I could only get the true experience with both of these artificial aids turned off.

This was later confirmed when my friend was interested in buying a new car and had a fancy for the S2000 and wanted an opinion of it. I told her about the magazine review, and how they said controlling slip angles in turns with it is so much fun. When I told her they had that car in GT3, and that it was a driving sim with real physics, not just another arcade game, she asked me to try it out in the game and tell her how it handled (since up till then I had not driven it in the game).

Well the ASM and TCS were automatically on when I bought it and I tested it out but couldn’t get any slip angles out of it like in the article, so I turned off the aids but still couldn't get any good slip angles out of it. Then I put on sim tires (up until now I had been intimidated by the warning on them and my previous ham-fisted bad experience in both GT3 and GT2) and I nearly bust a nut the handling was so much fun. When she asked how the S2000 handled I told her "Orgasmic".

Between these two times there was a significant hiatus in my playing GT3 because of other games and some crud with life, but after the latter experience, I have not been able to stop playing for any long period of time, always with driver aids off and always with sim tires.

Sorry for being so verbose, I have a propensity for doing that.

(I also bought sim tires for all my 125 cars right after that with my considerable bank account [I'm not kidding, bought it for all of them in one sitting because I was so angry at myself for not getting the full experience because I was afraid of losing])
 
That's also why my friends don't like playing me in GT3, because they spin out at the STARTING LINE with my settings. None of my friends in real life likes or owns GT3, which is why I finally came here:( :( :( :(

I should mention I also use manual transmission...
 
Originally posted by DODGE the VIPER
I also learnt later that it's just a game, and I shouldn't yell at the TV Screen either...:O


...or smash up DS2's, it can get expensive:lol:
 
I learned that putting anything softer than T3's on a FF car with a V6 engine is just a disaster waiting to happen.

Also, putting a 1-way LSD in an FF car does wonders to neutralize much of the understeer, but you need to boost the brakes too to scrub off that extra speed.
 
Originally posted by Race Idiot
I like Hondas, but the Fiat is Stock wheras your Civic is probably tuned. Mind you the Current Gen Civic R is quite a good deal, it's only around £15,000 (pounds) for a car with 200bhp.

Although the Fiat has a funky 5cyl turbo engine (is it 5cyl?, I can't remember i'm tired and caffinated) which is pretty torquey.

15,000 ounds is like 30k dollars right.... y not get an Sti or 350z
 
No, I think it's about 30,000 dollars AU...so a Subaru over here is about 60,000 AU for the STi version.
 
I learned never try to force the cpy where it is never meant to be (ie, Pitting when you dont need too, Into flat walls, Off track,ect.)
Or Spin out at the finish line adn now watching how many laps i had bore the last lap :))...oh, and never in my insane mind try and use the cudo at Complex string and staying on the raod to prove my driving skillzz(10 mins is not fast at all..)...

P.S, one time I ran teh cpu into a Flat baracide and it stayed there the whole race not moving, I wonder why it didn't reverse?
 
Originally posted by DODGE the VIPER
No, I think it's about 30,000 dollars AU...so a Subaru over here is about 60,000 AU for the STi version.

Impreza WRX STi
WRX STi Sedan Manual $56630* australian dollars

just under 30k in us... yes that is base... i think with good stuff its like 32k... relatively well packaged comp to us evo....

dunno about aus evo... probably a better deal... aus sti is only 2.0 litre so it is different than the american one... probably the same thing with the evo... if its the Japanese evo... i would get that... too bad mitsu wimped out in USA
 
I haven't heard any news from the Lancer Evo VIII down here in Australia...:| There's probably a few on the roads though.
 
Originally posted by Gran Turismo7058
NEVER, I repeat NEVER, do this.

I regret putting the ASM, TCS all the way to zero, and drive around laguna seca with a stock Mercedes-Benz CL600. Quite funny but hard. What lessons have you learned in GT3. Please Share them.:D
I have learned that doing this is phun. Now I'm trying to get in a clean lap at GVS with the Camaro Race Car, TCS and ASM at zero, pulling 360s in every corner. :lol:
 
Now come one...it's not that hard. You just have to brake....early...alright, VERY EARLY. :p
 
Originally posted by DODGE the VIPER
Now come one...it's not that hard. You just have to brake....early...alright, VERY EARLY. :p
Nah not that hard - just gotta do it without hitting the wall. :banghead:
 
Originally posted by SandStorm
Nah not that hard - just gotta do it without hitting the wall. :banghead:

Oh c'mon, I managed to get around Grand Valley II in one of those cars just fine... with T3's even. Just keep it off the rumble strips and away from the grass and you won't have any problems (unless you jacked up the engine to full power, in which case you're pretty much done for).
 
If you accelerate whilst turning in a high powered car, it's bound to have bad results...
 
I've learned not to pit too close to the end of the race in the 2 Hour Endurance race, I pitted in in the second last lap and thought I would win, stupid of me because it would have taken me at least 4 laps to catch up again, damn that pissed me off, came in 2nd but still didnt win any cars
 
I've learned to drive different with each car... was trying to drift in my 86 like I do in my ZZII... it turned out pretty bad.
 
Originally posted by ILLicit
I've learned not to pit too close to the end of the race in the 2 Hour Endurance race, I pitted in in the second last lap and thought I would win, stupid of me because it would have taken me at least 4 laps to catch up again, damn that pissed me off, came in 2nd but still didnt win any cars
Yes, planning your pit stops is a crucial part to winning an enduro. That's why it pays to know how many laps your car can get on a certain set of tires, so you don't get stuck having to either pit very late in the race or risk running laps on red tires.

Oh, and I also learned recently that a dark red tire actually does make your car pull to one side, especially if the other tire on that side isn't quite as worn yet. I didn't know that since I usually change them when they get to light orange.
 
Originally posted by DODGE the VIPER
If you accelerate whilst turning in a high powered car, it's bound to have bad results...


...unless you know how to drift a car of course;)
 
Originally posted by Blaze Kinser
Yes, planning your pit stops is a crucial part to winning an enduro. That's why it pays to know how many laps your car can get on a certain set of tires, so you don't get stuck having to either pit very late in the race or risk running laps on red tires.

I usually pit at a certain time into the race in the 2 hour endurances. I run on super-slicks and pit about every 30 min. Laps don't mean that much because there isn't a certain number of laps, but it does help to know how far you can go.
 
Originally posted by Injected8706
I usually pit at a certain time into the race in the 2 hour endurances. I run on super-slicks and pit about every 30 min. Laps don't mean that much because there isn't a certain number of laps, but it does help to know how far you can go.
As far as the 2-hour enduros go, I usually pit in on the same lap as the fastest AI car. That way I can make sure I can keep up with them, or keep them a good distance away.

In the other enduros I usually see how far I can safely stretch my tire life on a test qualifying run, then go back to it later in the day and use that first run to decide how often I need to pit in.
 
For enduros use the hardest compound tire you can drive reasonably well with. As your tires go to yellow you will get the best handling.
I ran the Passage to Colleseo in an MR-S with T3's. I won by 12 seconds, even though the Griffith and the Clio were faster. I was pitting every 12-13 laps. They pitted every 5-6 laps, giving me a chance to widen my lead each time they pitted.
I also never pitted less than 20 seconds ahead of the 2nd place car. That way I still come out in front of them.
 
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