A-spec Expert Level European Hot Hatch Race: Circuito de Madrid / Reverse

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Lotus Elise Sport 190. Tune by me. P1 Audi A3 3.2 quattro. Pass for the win over the Audi quattro at the end of lap 3 start of lap 4 after the first S curve. Winning margin 19.831. Fast Lap 1:39.335. This Lotus runs with only 133HP/5,100 rpm. And a Power-to-Weight Ratio of 5.03kg/HP. I want to thank @Racin510s for keeping my focus on winning with this Lotus as it a took a few days to get the tune right. After that it went very fast after I got the LSD/Power-to-Weight Ratio to work for the win with this Lotus.
 
Used the 09 Lotus Evora fully tuned and lightened and it is a beast. 1:36 best lap and total time of 8:35 with 220 kmh in the transmission and 5/11/5 in the diff with the power limiter in the seventies. Nothing too exotic and I lapped a Polo GTI in both races, I now know what I will be using for the rest of this seasonal.
 
I ran the Evora also, stock with power reduced. Seemed sluggish but still, not too bad. Elise was better I think.

Ferrari 512 was fun.
BMW Z8 was alright.
'74 Countach was great.
RUF BTR was super fun.
A110 1600A '72 was great, too.
 
Well, another additions, all quick and dirty tunes by me
MERCEDES BENZ A160 Avantgarde 450pp
MERCEDES_A160_MADRID_450pp01.jpg

Nice Mini peoplemover, a little oversteery

OPEL TIGRA 450pp

OPEL_TIGRA_MADRID_450pp01.jpg

Another nice little car, good handling, didnt spend much time with it

AC CARS 427 S/C 450pp
AC_427SC_MADRID_450pp01.jpg

I didnt though this could qualify as a hatchback, but then again, I'm not complaining. The car felt nice, under control, but the power downgrade had a huge impact on acceleration, this was to be expected as with other cars where the downgrade is about 100pp. I guess that adding weight and power will fix that, but I hope that I have time to do that.

I tried to tune the VW SCHWIMMWAGEN, invested hours on it, but and oddly thing happens. When I brake to take the chicane , the car turns itself to the left, HARD. I tought the rigidity could be off, or my t(h)rusty SIXAXIS was acting on me, but I tested for those conditions and had no positive findings. On test races on other tracks this is not a problem.
I brought all the way up the sping rates to start reducing the height, and I got that behaviour. I tried to the best of my abilities to effectively counter that to no avail. On the APRICOT seasonal the SCWIMMWAGEN shone because how well it takes the curves, so I guess that my experiments incremented the "turning while braking" effect so much to undisirable rates, so the car is reacting too much to the chicane's surface. I will appreciate your input on this matter!
 
Well... mind blownd and hats off.
I tried doing so much stuff, but the best time I got with the Mito its high 8:42, I guess this is the best I can do with TC on, but I am not used to the accel on sticks or the R2.
I would really like to see a replay on that time
 
Lotus 111R. P1 BMW 135i Coupe. Tune by me. Fast lap 135.547. Winning margin over the BMW135i 10.824. Pass for the win on lap 4.
 
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Well... mind blownd and hats off.
I tried doing so much stuff, but the best time I got with the Mito its high 8:42, I guess this is the best I can do with TC on, but I am not used to the accel on sticks or the R2.
I would really like to see a replay on that time
Me to, @ERAZER do you have a replay?
 
Me to, @ERAZER do you have a replay?
Afraid not, forgot to save it. :indiff:

Laptimes was 1:35 for first lap, and then 1:33 for the following laps, apart from lap 4 where I made a small misstake.
Now its mostly down to 3 things:
Setup - make sure gearbox allows you to never bog down or top out, and make the car soft for grip, and lots of rotation (rear toe out)
Driving lines - no exuberant driving, staying nice and tidy to the driving line, not spinning the wheels out of the corners, and ofcourse learning the brakingpoints so you dont brake too late or too early.
Avoiding the AI - make sure you loose little to no time when passing the AI, you should never slow down to their pace, waiting for a gap. if they are at the wrong place at the wrong time, take some height and get them out of the corner, or restart and try again.

Also, please tag me whenever you repost any of my content, I was not aware you posted here.
 
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Afraid not, forgot to save it. :indiff:

Laptimes was 1:35 for first lap, and then 1:33 for the following laps, apart from lap 4 where I made a small misstake.
Now its mostly down to 3 things:
Setup - make sure gearbox allows you to never bog down or top out, and make the car soft for grip, and lots of rotation (rear toe out)
Driving lines - no exuberant driving, staying nice and tidy to the driving line, not spinning the wheels out of the corners, and ofcourse learning the brakingpoints so you dont brake too late or too early.
Avoiding the AI - make sure you loose little to no time when passing the AI, you should never slow down to their pace, waiting for a gap. if they are at the wrong place at the wrong time, take some height and get them out of the corner, or restart and try again.

Also, please tag me whenever you repost any of my content, I was not aware you posted here.
@ERAZER All well 100% said for sure. For me my biggest satisfaction is winning clean.
 
I did tag you. @ERAZER
Is the a Formula to setting up the gear box or just trail and error.
Oh, I see you did, strange I did'nt get the notification... Oh well.

A generic flp will always be a very good start, and for most cars, nothing else is needed.

1: reset to default
2: set final gear to maximum
3: set max speed to minimum
4: set 1'st and 2'nd to minimum (as tall gearing as possible)
5: set 5'th and 6'th to maximum (as short gearing as possible)
6: set 4'th in a way so that the spacing from 3'rd to 4'th is slightly longer than it is from 2'nd to 3'rd, but shorter than it is from 4'th to 5'th. You dont have to touch 3'rd. the spacing between the gears should be even from 2'nd to 6'th, increasing ever so slightly between each gear.
7: set final gear so that your top speed is slightly above what you reach on the longest straight (trial and error) if you got about 1000 rpm to go to rev limiter when you hit the brakes at the main straight, its good. :)

Furthermore:
for almost all cars I just drop springrate and dampers all the way to minimum value, some negative rake because GT6 settings is messed up (RH about 115/90 is good for most cars)
Then reset camber and toe to 0.0 (FWD cars I usually use -0.60 rear toe out)
Leave the brakes alone, and put LSD to 5/12/5 for RWD, and 5/40/5 for FWD

Also, make sure powerparts are used properly, too much and you get a flat powercurve and you loose BHP, too little and you get a engine that is too peaky and you never get to use the full power.

when it comes to weight, then less is more, always. Unless youre in the LLC rocket or the GSX-R/4 or similar lightweighters.

And make sure you get the powerparts/weightreduction done first, or you'll mess the gearbox up.


I did a guide for this, quite a long time ago, and its mainly for race cars, and only focuses on suspension and LSD, but might still be usefull:
GENERAL GUIDE
if its too loose for you, increase rear down force a bit
If its still too loose under acceleration, decrease LSD acceleration sensitivity
If its still too loose under braking, increase LSD deceleration
If its still too loose, increase initial LSD (I do not recommend this, as it kills rotation)

RIDE HEIGHT
Max ride height: more grip and traction, but slow top speed and acceleration.
Min ride height: less grip, but better top speed and acceleration.
This means that max front and min rear gives more rotation.

SPRING
Max spring rate: less grip, but reacts to steering input faster, thus giving you more turn in and control.
Min spring rate: more grip, but reacts to steering input slower, thus giving you less turn in and control.
This means that min front and max rear gives more rotation.

DAMPERS
dampers react the same way as spring rate, but its much better to keep dampers at 1 and adjust spring rate instead. as long as you don't go to extreme values, don't bother with the game's instructions that dampers should be adjusted accordingly to spring rate. (it is very true in real life, but in GT6 its not needed).

ROLL BARS
Max Anti Roll Bar gives more grip.
Min Anti Roll Bar gives less grip.
Anti Roll Bar is interesting though, because if lowering a Anti Roll Bar, the grip increases on that axle, but if you lower both axles, the total grip is lower, not higher...

CAMBER
Camber delays the grip, just as in real life, but in contrast to real life, it does not get better when under load.
So 0/0 is pretty much always preferred, only exception is heavily under steering cars, then you can use rear camber to make the rear step out to get it to slide a little, but its a last resort, if everything else fails.

TOE
Toe is great for adjusting car behavior.
negative front toe increases rotation, but can make the car behave weird on turn in
positive front toe reduces rotation, but makes it smoother on entry.

negative rear toe increases rotation (heavily), a huge benefit on entry and mid turn, but it can kill traction out of corners.
Positive rear toe kills rotation, but helps with stability

SPECIFIC CARS
All FWD cars will benefit from this as they don't need rear traction.
4WD will also benefit from this because of their great traction capabilities.
The Chaparral 2J is another car that needs huge amount of negative rear toe,
due to its fan system giving it traction.

GUIDE TO CAR TOE
Short rear toe guide:
FWD: -1.00
4WD -1.00 - -0.60
Stable RWD cars: -0.60 - 0.00
unstable RWD cars 0.00 - +0.30
 
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