Another Fanatec wheel arrives!

  • Thread starter Thread starter jonboy1066
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you are going over the bridge to get water. Don´t forget the pot that adjust the pressure for the load cell if you have a hard time getting 100 % brake :).

btw you say it´s stiff do you have a really short brake travel or longer. Short brake travel something like 5 cm they shipped it with the longer already. That is what I preferr. If you have something like the G25 though maybe not that extreme you have the shorter rod.

But I like the stiffer because then you always have a feel of the brake which you don´t have on the G25 or the longer brake on the CSP. But as you say you need to get used to new pedals. Takes time to build muscle memory it will still be tuned in for your old pedals.
 
oqvist
you are going over the bridge to get water. Don´t forget the pot that adjust the pressure for the load cell if you have a hard time getting 100 % brake :).

btw you say it´s stiff do you have a really short brake travel or longer. Short brake travel something like 5 cm they shipped it with the longer already. That is what I preferr. If you have something like the G25 though maybe not that extreme you have the shorter rod.

But I like the stiffer because then you always have a feel of the brake which you don´t have on the G25 or the longer brake on the CSP. But as you say you need to get used to new pedals. Takes time to build muscle memory it will still be tuned in for your old pedals.
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I'll have to double-check later as I'm not quite sure how much travel there is in the pedal. I think it's at least 5 cm though. As far as the pot goes, I'm guessing that is the little rubber piece on the back of the brake pedal? I haven't done anything to it yet, aside from taking it off and putting it back on when I moved the front plate of the brake pedal. Is there any way to adjust the pot? I did notice that it took quite a bit of effort to get 100% brake even with the potentiometer turned all the way to the right (its most sensitive setting).
 
yes the silver knob between the clutch and brake. For me it get really soft if you loosen it up. As for range I gave wrong values. If we say like this is the brake travel say max 1/4 of the clutch travel if even that?

If you have problem with deadzones you can try updating the firmware as well
 
I send an e-mail to Fanatec support yesterday 3.30 pm to know approximatively when I was going to receive my GT3 RS Clubsport wheel. They answered me at 4pm that they will ship my wheel within the hour. Today, I opened the door for the UPS' guy at 1pm!!! I was stunned!! And the wheel and pedals are AWESOME. I wasn't expecting such quality! (let's say it will be the same feeling for GT5 :))
 
aurelio_911
I send an e-mail to Fanatec support yesterday 3.30 pm to know approximatively when I was going to receive my GT3 RS Clubsport wheel. They answered me at 4pm that they will ship my wheel within the hour. Today, I opened the door for the UPS' guy at 1pm!!! I was stunned!! And the wheel and pedals are AWESOME. I wasn't expecting such quality! (let's say it will be the same feeling for GT5 :))
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What's the email you used to contact then?

I've been trying to contact then without success for a couple of days now.
 
I've got a question for everyone with a 911 porsche wheel, or the GT3 wheel. How well does it clamp itself down? Will I be able to connect it straight to my playseat, just like the g25, or am I going to need something else to get it mounted rock solid. I haven't been able to make out the clamps on either one to see what they look like on the turbo s wheel, and I'm assuming they will be the same as the other 2 wheels.
 
The clamp in the Fanatec wheels sucks. That's what everybody says.

I think you'll have to drill new holes in the playseat to hard mount the wheel. That's the best way.
 
Pharaoh 117
The clamp in the Fanatec wheels sucks. That's what everybody says.

I think you'll have to drill new holes in the playseat to hard mount the wheel. That's the best way.
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I drilled the holes : ) works perfect now
 
Still didn't get a response from Fanatec. And that's because I wanna change my order from a Turbo S Clubsport to a normal Turbo S + GT3 RS Clubsport + Shifter adapter. I guess they don't want more money.
 
Pharaoh 117
What's the email you used to contact then?

I've been trying to contact then without success for a couple of days now.
Click to expand...

Pharaoh 117
Still didn't get a response from Fanatec. And that's because I wanna change my order from a Turbo S Clubsport to a normal Turbo S + GT3 RS Clubsport + Shifter adapter. I guess they don't want more money.
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If you are in the U.S. try this e-mail address: webshop.usa@endor.ag

They've been really helpful and responsive for me so far 👍

Maybe that e-mail address will work for other countries as well, I'm not sure.
Usually, they answer any questions I have within a day :)
 
cpp214
If you are in the U.S. try this e-mail address: webshop.usa@endor.ag

They've been really helpful and responsive for me so far 👍

Maybe that e-mail address will work for other countries as well, I'm not sure.
Usually, they answer any questions I have within a day :)
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I'm in Brazil but a friend from USA is buying the wheel for me.

Thanks. Lets see if I get a response in this one. 👍
 
Raitziger
September is around the corner. Is there any new news on Turbo S shipping dates?
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That's what I would like to know. I haven't heard anything in months about the turbo s wheel, and I've had it preordered since NOV. I was told I would be a tester for it also but haven't heard anyting else about that either.
 
Need to hire more staff it seems. I am waiting for a new wheel plate as well. Hope it doesn´t mean they are kind of desperate to get the Turbo S out before Forza 3. It would be kind of a disaster if they don´t manage to deliver it in time in term of public relations lol.
 
I ordered my CSP's on Jul22 and received them on Aug22.
I use a G25 wheel and a TSW Speedshifter.
Initially I had USB conflicts but quickly figurred out the problem with a Saitek gamepad.
Once I removed the gamepad all was recognized in rFactor.
Yes the quality of the build of the CSP's is rugged and strong.

Problem: No brake vibration in rFactor.
Following the directions I placed the .dll into rFactor plugins folder.
Using XP32 as my OS, rfactor does not effect the ABS.
I have used the Menu of the CSP's to select the game controller, choosing rFactors root dir, and ABS brake lock.
I click "apply", all looks good as it shows my selected dir with the * showing manual selection.
Once I click "ok", the selected root path disappears and is no longer chosen or able to be slected.
repeating the process yeilds same results.
Testing in rfactor even while it is still selected and before hitting "ok" still yeilds no vibration no matter how fast or hard I try to skid the car.
In XP32 the "Vibration Test" feature in the CSP menu does work.

NOTE: I tested in Vista64, the CSP update does not respond nor discover the boot loader. The "Vibration Test" also does not work at all in Vista64.
* I can run the pedals in rFactor using Vista64. they do work and the CSP menu works for adjusting the 3 pedals.
** I had to loosen/remove the Clutch/Throttle magnet sensor 2 of the 3 screws and then the sensor mobo turn slightly to achieve perfect amount settings.
***Tiny drop of crazy glue on clutch sensor held it locked in place even though I had the 1 remaining screw quite tight.

Q: Has anyone ever got the Brake Vibration feature to work in rFactor?
Q2: same as above but using a G25 wheel and rfactor as is what I use.

Temp solution = manual setup of ABS Lock

I made some serious mods the the brake vibration motor to get more vibration out of it.
I placed a small piece of metal near the spinning motor weight so that it is just hitting it.
This creates significantly more vibration than stock.
Next I disconnected the Vib motor from the mobo.
I cut the red and black wires and setup a microswitch on the brake pedal and a 12v power supply.
Now when I full brake, the microswitch activates and triggers the 12v to supply the Vib motor.
It now spins faster and stronger.
I also glued a small 1/4-20 nut to the existing counterweight, adding mass to it which causes the weight to strike the addon piece of metal with much more force creating very strong pedal vibrations.
I run 2 buttkickers and I can still feel very easilly the brake pedal vibrations, whereas the stock vib setup is rinkydink and wimpy.

*** I would like to trigger my brake vib from the intended rFactor FFB, but for now, this works very well.
You must adjust the silver brake knob to be at full braking when the vib starts, now it will emulate the ABS or locking rear wheels.
I have mine adjusted so that when you begin to see tire smoke, the ABS vibration begins...Too Cool!
Yes, it has shaved many seconds off of my lap times and is a notable improvement.

I purchased the CSP's specifically for the brake/FFB effects.
When I received them and found out how weak the vibration feature was I was very disappointed.
When you complete this mod, it will be like night and day.
So Fanatec gives you a good starting point, but you must engineer the perfected brake mod yourself to obtain kickass results.
 
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SlickR
I ordered my CSP's on Jul22 and

...snip...

So Fanatec gives you a good starting point, but you must engineer the perfected brake mod yourself to obtain kickass results.
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Sounds great, I'd really like to try that 👍

Yes, it has shaved many seconds off of my lap times and is a notable improvement.
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But really? :dopey:
 
After more tests I was finally able to get rFactor to produce a vibration but only when skidding sideways or on grass.
I succeeded in Vista64, but not XP32.
The trick was to move rFactor to the suggested default dir that Fanatec expects to see it in, c:/Programfiles(x86)/rFactor.
Once I moved it the CSP menu game controller select window was able to see it and remember it.

Now that I had this part working, I wanted to be able to trigger with rFactor the already great brake pedal vibration I was achieving through my mod.
I connected a 5v relay to the two wires from the CSP mobo, and then to my 12v brake mod.
Now it works that rfactor FBB sends a signal, the relay turns on my mod, and I get the same hardcore vibration triggered by rFactor.
I wired it so I can stomp the pedal and get vib with and without rfactor control.
Now when I go down a straight and brake hard, it vibrates emulating locking rear tires, and when I skid sideways or on grass, I get the rFactor vib.
Each vib is slightly diff feel in your foot, you can tell the difference.

* I wired up two independent LEDs to act as visual indicators as to which Vib I am receiving.
The left lights for manual vib, and the right for rFactor vib.
** If you crash the lights flicker alot showing damages, especially if missing a wheel or flat tire. Very helpful!
 
Impressive stuff. Fanatec should hire you and really work on that feature for future revisions.

Q1 I got it working as in getting vibration. I don´t remember if I used the USB or the PS 2 connection.

As for seconds faster I think it´s more you getting used to the wheel :)
 
I could also feel the vibration when sliding sidways on the grass, but not in race situations. But the vibration is definitely strong enough to be useful if they manage to write a driver which takes advantage of it!

By the way, enabling the vibration effect really killed my framerate (130 FPS without --> 30 FPS with vibration) So they really need to work on it. Not first priority, though.

Gotta say I'm really impressed with the wheel + pedals so far!!

One question though: what does the "dampening" setting in the driver software do??
 
SlickR
* I wired up two independent LEDs to act as visual indicators as to which Vib I am receiving.
The left lights for manual vib, and the right for rFactor vib.
** If you crash the lights flicker alot showing damages, especially if missing a wheel or flat tire. Very helpful!
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Hey SlickR, I am very impressed about your skills. It would be great if you contact me so we can exchange some ideas. Please send me an email to info AT 911wheel.com

Thomas
 
Gnomie
One question though: what does the "dampening" setting in the driver software do??
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The "dampening" controls the dampening signals coming from the game. E.g. if you drive through mud the dampeing increases. It is recommended to turn it on.

The "Drift mode" controls the native dampeing of the wheel independent from the game. The dampening should be reduced if you like to spin faster. On oval tracks it is an advantage to feel some resistance. Setting "5" eliminates the dampeing of the wheel mechanics. You can compare it with a power steering.
 
OK, thank you for the reply! :) I'll give it a go.

One more thing: could someone who got their pedals in the first shipment please tell me approximately how long the replacement metal rod for the brake is? I want to make one myself just to see how it feels. :)
 
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Hey thomas,
Any news on the 911 turbo s wheel being delayed again?
And also any new on if you are still planning on sending out any turbo s wheels to testers?
 
Hi Thomas, yes, I will email you this week so we can talk a bit.

Ok, two more days of testing and many improvements now have been achieved.

1. When I placed the LED for rFactor vib inline from the mobo, it lit up yes and looked very cool.
Problem: The voltage to the LED(1.5v) was just enough that when in combo with the 5v relay draw, it was just enough to cause the CSP software to glitch.
The glitch was that the magnetic sensors on the clutch and throttle would not achieve maximum amount, but slightly less.
This became a frustrating problem as when I would depress the clutch fully, I would not be in 100% neutral but be slightly engaged which caused the car to roll out.
By removing the LED all is solved. I have now figgurred out a new way to wire the LED up so it does not interfere with mobo voltage/software, etc.

2. The vib signal that rfactor will produce ranges from very small, to full on.
Because of this the subtleties of skidding are translated into the LED and vib motor simultaneously. The result is that you can see and feel the amount you are now slipping in a turn.
You can also see and feel damage to your steering components.
* The rfactor LED will flicker much more when damaged than when not.

I used an amber colored trailer running light fixture from Auto parts store as my ABS gauge/Indicator lamp.
This uses the small automotive incandescent bulb 12v.
I wired a small LED(12v) in paralell to the incandescent bulb.
The LED now catches the subtleties of the rFactor vib signal, and the incandescent is not as quick to react yet is neccesarry to have in the circuit as it will not work without it as I tried.
I believe it absorbs the 12v slightly where if you don't have it inline, the 12v will slam the LED and it doesn't turn on nor vib the motor.

So where things are now I have the CSP's running in Vista64, I use XP32 to edit the firmware of the Brake deadzone, then reboot into Vista64 to run it in rFactor.
The pedals remember the edits done in XP as the 'prom' is on the mobo and the data is held there so the os is only used to administer the data.

I understand this is a lot of technical jumbo, but I will be creating a step by step how to next week for the sim world community to be able to mod their own pedals the way I have.
I will make a demo video too to demonstrate the advantages this increased tactile and visual indicators make on your driving and lap times.

** I am today begining a new idea for a new mod...
"Vibrating/Scraping" sensation in the CSP clutch pedal when engaging the clutch simulating clutch disk sanwiching between the flywheel and pressure plate.
Easy to do and similiar to the brake mod yet utilizing it's own unique system.
Details will be coming soon when I finish a prototype.
 

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