Another Fanatec wheel arrives!

  • Thread starter jonboy1066
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georgia2texas
I recommend the Carrera wheel, its a great wheel bought it about a month ago and it came with the stand.
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Actually, i would only recommend it to anyone if you are on a budget. The Carrera to be straight up and honest is the worst model out of the three. It is the loudest and roughest feeling. It Feels like my DFPRO. I don't recommend anything but either the GT3 RS or the GT2 if one is seriously considering a Fanatec wheel.
 
Update to my PWTS wheel problem

Everytime I try to select PC mode it goes into Xbox mode when connected to the PC. When not connected to the PC it stays in PC mode, if I then plug it into the PC while its in PC mode windows doesn't recognize anything. I've tried playing PC games with it in xbox mode but its uncontrollable.

I've tried reinstalling fanatec driver, tuned off antivirus, run as administrator, resetting the wheel, changing the firmware, different USB ports. I'm on windows 7 64bit and 64bit fanatec driver is used

History of events:

1 The LEDs became barely visible while playing f1 2011 and the wheel disconnected itself from the pc. Tried many times but wouldn't stay connected to the PC when trying to use the wheel in-game.
2 I powered up the wheel not connected to anything and the LEDs are barely visible.
3 After many attempts on PC I try it on the PS3, works okay but LEDs still barely lit.
4 try it on PC and works fine for a night but LEDs barely lit
5 try it on PC next day and it automatically goes into xbox mode, LEDs still barely lit.

There's enough power to the wheel (24v).

Been trying for hours now but just can't stop the wheel literally jolting into xbox mode as soon as I try to select PC mode when connected to the PC

Don't know if the xbox mode is a separate issue or its all related to the LEDs and something inside the wheel. I've been using on PC mostly for 2 years without issue and now suddenly the wheel keeps going into xbox mode.

EDIT: After many combinations I seem to have fixed the xbox mode issue.

Porsche wheel was always showing in the game controllers section but in the devices section of windows 7 I seen two generic MS drivers appear when connecting the wheel. Uninstalling them didn't work, they'd gone but nothing would happen but If I uninstalled them and then restarted the PC immediately then powered up the wheel into PC mode before the windows boot screen it seemed to stick and for now has stopped going in xbox mode.

I did try simply having the wheel in PC mode and booting up the PC but soon as the windows OS appeared, the wheel would jolt into xbox mode.

I guess all this disconnecting from the game did something. Pretty sure its just overheating but a bit sooner than usual so I'll use some low force feedback.

In F1 2010 and many other driving games, when the wheel overheats the game plays on but you have no control and have to get on the pause button quickly and wait but F1 2011 it throws up a controller disconnect screen, then keyboard takes the role and throws out all the wheel settings to default and seems to play havoc with the drivers.
 
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Does anyone else have issues w/ the degrees of rotation "stops" not working in-game on a PC? For instance if I set the wheel to 270 or 320 degrees for example, it'll turn that much, then there is pretty hard resistance when I reach the end of that range (when I'm not in-game.) I tried both setting it in the Fanatec driver software on PC as well as using the on-wheel adjustments. But when I fire up F1 2011 for example, when racing if I find myself understeering and try to add more input than should be allowed, it just runs right past those "stops" and becomes a 900 degree wheel (but on-screen wheel stops where it should for the setting.)

I even tried reinstalling the driver. Both 107 (official) and the 110 (I got this somewhere- must be beta?) I have not tried a firmware upgrade yet.

Any thoughts?
 
Hirokisoki
Actually, i would only recommend it to anyone if you are on a budget. The Carrera to be straight up and honest is the worst model out of the three. It is the loudest and roughest feeling. It Feels like my DFPRO. I don't recommend anything but either the GT3 RS or the GT2 if one is seriously considering a Fanatec wheel.
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Sure, cogs vs belts..

Wouldn't mind knowing how it compares to the DFGT though.. Too lazy to search I guess.

Still, he's happy and having a ball. That's what counts right?
 
I as well have a Carrera wheel. It sure is one hell of a loud wheel but it gets the job done and cant argue with the bargain that you're getting. Got mine for $104 on eBay. :dopey:
 
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mikemav
Does anyone else have issues w/ the degrees of rotation "stops" not working in-game on a PC? For instance if I set the wheel to 270 or 320 degrees for example, it'll turn that much, then there is pretty hard resistance when I reach the end of that range (when I'm not in-game.) I tried both setting it in the Fanatec driver software on PC as well as using the on-wheel adjustments. But when I fire up F1 2011 for example, when racing if I find myself understeering and try to add more input than should be allowed, it just runs right past those "stops" and becomes a 900 degree wheel (but on-screen wheel stops where it should for the setting.)

I even tried reinstalling the driver. Both 107 (official) and the 110 (I got this somewhere- must be beta?) I have not tried a firmware upgrade yet.

Any thoughts?
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First, I tend to set as much as I can in the PC driver and only make changes to other parameters in the wheel's tuning menu. On the PC if I set the steering lock in the driver and then change it in the wheel's tuning menu, then the tuning menu seems to take over. I always make sure to set the steering lock in the driver and only modify it in the driver when playing on the PC. I don't have F1 2011, but my experience with F1 2011 is that it respects the steering lock I set in the driver.

If I had the force feedback strength cranked too high in F1 2010, then I sometimes wouldn't be able to feel the steering lock points. This is because the Fanatec wheels don't have any sort of locking mechanism that to prevent you from turning past your steering lock points if you're using anything less than 900 degrees. The motor is cranked to maximum resistance when you hit the limit. If the in-game steering weight and force feedback are really high, you may not notice the transition. The wheel isn't letting you input more steering though. So if you set the driver for 270 degrees and cranked the wheel past the 360 degree point you're not dialing in additional steering input; you're just overshooting the "soft" steering lock limit by overpowering the motor.
 
Is there a guide to all the acronyms being used in this place? I am pretty quick to most things but I am overwhelmed on this forum, haha. I am getting my Carrera wheel Friday.

What are: DFPRO, PWTS, DFGT, CSR
 
Raylon
Is there a guide to all the acronyms being used in this place? I am pretty quick to most things but I am overwhelmed on this forum, haha. I am getting my Carrera wheel Friday.

What are: DFPRO, PWTS, DFGT, CSR
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Driving Force Pro, Porsche Wheel Turbo S, Driving Force GT, Club Sport Racing (If I am correct).

When in doubt Google it.
 
Raylon
Is there a guide to all the acronyms being used in this place? I am pretty quick to most things but I am overwhelmed on this forum, haha. I am getting my Carrera wheel Friday.

What are: DFPRO, PWTS, DFGT, CSR
Click to expand...


DFPRO or DFRP is the Logitech Driving Force Pro. It came out when Gran Turismo 4 was released. I believe it was the first mass market 900 degree wheel.

The DFGT is the Logitech Driving Force GT, the successor to the DFP.

PWTS is the "Porsche Wheel Turbo S", Fanatec's term for the Porsche 911 Turbo S Wheel. It has since been replaced by the Porsche 911 GT2 Wheel.

The CSR is Fanatec's new Forza 4 wheel.

Your Porsche 911 Carrera Wheel is also known as the PWC, for Porsche Wheel Carrera.
 
So, time to update this thread... Been posting my latest miseries under Fanatec Customer Service elsewhere on this site. (And potential customers: be very scared by the poll: There is an extremely high number of respondents who have had - and some who are still having - hardware failures with their Fanatec products!)

To sum it up, I'm in the process of trying to deal with Fanatec Customer Service on getting a THIRD replacement GT2 wheel since August!

Still works great on Xbox, and I managed to get to level 50 on Forza 3 using it without much problem.

Problem came when I heard about the recent Gran Tursimo 5 updates, and I tried to use my GT2 wheel on the PS3... Worked for a few minutes, then FAIL! After that, won't work on my PC with iRacing, or for more than a couple of minutes at a time on PS3!

I've been in painfully slow "communication" with Fanatec for more than a week now, trying to get things resolved. So far, the best they are offering me is to send the replacement wheel to Arizona for repair. They want me to use the cheapest shipping option possible, and I guess I'm just supposed to twiddle my thumbs while they decide how to proceed.

I was nervous about buying from Fanatec back in August, but I was fooled by the stories of improved support and a big turnaround in the way they do business in the US.

Right now, I'm here to tell you that for this customer at least, things are pretty bad. I've spent way more than a reasonable amount of time and effort trying to diagnose, and then communicate, and then *convince* Fanatec of the problems I've experienced with two brand new units of their GT2 wheel...

I've said it before, and will say it again: Fanatec is the only choice if you want cross-platform (Xbox) compatibility, but the lack of quality control and the very poor customer service should be considered very strongly in any decision to purchase. I *want* to be a satisfied Fanatec customer, but they're making it extremely difficult!

Let the buyer beware!

_Dave_
 
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Is anyone here using the Fanatec wheels with the system shock 3 games like Super car Challenge? What is your settings for it? I got it to work somewhat but the ffb is still much more about fighting making me loose control then anything else in this title.

Is there possible to get any kind of feel for when locking the brakes in this title?
 
I concur. So I finally got around to hard mounting and hooking up the Fanatec shifter I bought last December 2010 (along with the GT2 and CSP's) that they delivered in April 2011 - and a what a piece of junk it is.

I havent botherd trying it with GT5 yet, but with FM4 it has no '5th' gear position.

R is a dogleg left, then 1st and a weird dogleg to left-down to 2nd.

3rd and then 4th and then 6th.

No 5th.

And it leaks fluids.

Worst piece of junk I ever bought. The GT2 wheel itself randomly decids to ver left or right after 3 or 4 hours playing.

The CSP's are decent and I use them with my T500RS.

Byt the shifter and GT2 wheel are overpriced junk - and Fanatecs service is the worst of any tech company - bar none.

**update**

Surprise, surprise - Fanatec ships poorly made hardware. Story at 11.

The shifter has 2 R's and no 5th.

R R 1 3
| | | |
-------
...| | |
...2 4 6

No 5th.

Do they even warranty stuff 6 months later?

am0eba
So, time to update this thread... Been posting my latest miseries under Fanatec Customer Service elsewhere on this site. (And potential customers: be very scared by the poll: There is an extremely high number of respondents who have had - and some who are still having - hardware failures with their Fanatec products!)

To sum it up, I'm in the process of trying to deal with Fanatec Customer Service on getting a THIRD replacement GT2 wheel since August!

Still works great on Xbox, and I managed to get to level 50 on Forza 3 using it without much problem.

Problem came when I heard about the recent Gran Tursimo 5 updates, and I tried to use my GT2 wheel on the PS3... Worked for a few minutes, then FAIL! After that, won't work on my PC with iRacing, or for more than a couple of minutes at a time on PS3!

I've been in painfully slow "communication" with Fanatec for more than a week now, trying to get things resolved. So far, the best they are offering me is to send the replacement wheel to Arizona for repair. They want me to use the cheapest shipping option possible, and I guess I'm just supposed to twiddle my thumbs while they decide how to proceed.

I was nervous about buying from Fanatec back in August, but I was fooled by the stories of improved support and a big turnaround in the way they do business in the US.

Right now, I'm here to tell you that for this customer at least, things are pretty bad. I've spent way more than a reasonable amount of time and effort trying to diagnose, and then communicate, and then *convince* Fanatec of the problems I've experienced with two brand new units of their GT2 wheel...

I've said it before, and will say it again: Fanatec is the only choice if you want cross-platform (Xbox) compatibility, but the lack of quality control and the very poor customer service should be considered very strongly in any decision to purchase. I *want* to be a satisfied Fanatec customer, but they're making it extremely difficult!

Let the buyer beware!

_Dave_
Click to expand...
 
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Did you calibrate the shifter? You press the Start + Tuning Menu buttons at the same time to put wheel in shifter calibration mode. Put the shifter in the position displayed, then press Start.
 
12thgear
Did you calibrate the shifter? You press the Start + Tuning Menu buttons at the same time to put wheel in shifter calibration mode. Put the shifter in the position displayed, then press Start.
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I believe there may be a hardware issue with it. Now only the right most microswitches respond.

no R or 1 2 4, only 3 and 6 - the far right gates respond. ANd the lube is literally oozing out of the case.

It feels like some bizarre German greasy sex toy when you try use it.

;)

I have just hooked up the sequential shifter while I wait for the PS3 to restore to the new 128GB SSD - all ready for the 2.0 download.

Then FM4 goes back to a "controller on the couch" title, the GT2 is packed away till next year, the CSP's go back to the PC and GT5 gets to be thrashed via T500RS.

I believe in the end the only way Fanatec will be forced to improve their QA and CR will be a class aciton lawsuite - that is how prevalent their poor product and responses are. Sadly I don't believe they will change until they are forced to.

Eventually they will piss off the wrong lawyer ;)
 
The h-pattern shifter cannot work properly without calibration.

Please have a look at the pdf manual and try it again after you calibrated the shifter.
 
Fanatec...
The h-pattern shifter cannot work properly without calibration.

Please have a look at the pdf manual and try it again after you calibrated the shifter.
Click to expand...

Calibration means nothing when a) the shifter is more often than not not even seen by FM4 and when the unit b) has 2 responses for R, as if your microswitches are faulty and c) the other 1/3rd of the time only the 5th and 6th gates respond - and when they do it is with 3 and 6.

Why are the Fanatec products so troublesome?

Constantly needign to be recalibrated then redetected and then reset and then the firmware reflashed?

And the vaseline that oozes out? What's up with that?
 
Umm, you do know that the shifter does not use individual micro switches for each gear right. It is done on with potentiometers. Have you tried recalibrating? My shifter did about the same things before i calibrated the positions of the gears. I have had zero problems since and never had to recalculate.
As far as the grease, yeah they kind of overdo it a little, but yours seems even more so by your description.

Fm4 only reading it half the time: sounds like games fault not shifter problems. Dumb question. Is it plugged in solidly?
 
There aren't any microswitches in the 6+1 shifter, so if the shifter is detected by your wheel, you'll want to calibrate. It's basically an analog joystick, with detents and a springloaded bearing to give it mechanical feedback. Calibration simply tells the wheel that the values sent by the shifter joystick equate to certain gears or neutral. I've only had to calibrate each shifter once.

There's some sort of lube to smooth out the plastic on plastic contact. Mine wasn't too bad. Perhaps you overfilled your reservoir during service? ;)
 
Calibration is needed because there actually are not microswitches for each gear in the shifter. It is made more like a joystick and measures the position of the gear stick. You need to calibrate it so that the wheel "learns", where each gear is.

That's how I see it after opening the shifter once. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

EDIT: 12thgear was faster than me :)
 
You are correct sonac. And i was faster than 12th ;)
Iirc the shifter uses 2 potentiometers. One to measure forward/back axis ( 1st to 2nd ) the other for side to side ( 2-4-6 )

Only problem i ever had with my shifter was my fault. I broke one of the solder joints on the board, easy fix for me though.

I have had my shifter apart numerous times for various modding reason and it is actually a fairly decent product. Not saying top quality by anymeans, but not a pile of junk either.
 

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