- 1,360
- Ontario
- SydViscus
@BPeacock2727
Braking- There are 3 main braking methods:
Threshold Braking: The most common approach, applying full brake pressure for the minimum amount of time, before releasing the brake and driving through the corner.
Cadence Braking: Applying and removing brake pressure multiple times on corner approach, most useful with cold tires but can be a good method in tight battles as well.
Trail Braking: Applying continued minimum brake pressure while entering and sometimes through the corner, best for prolonged corners or corners with little to no brake pressure needed.
Each of these has strengths and weaknesses, none are absolutely "correct" and its about finding your best way around a corner depending on driving style, preference, and track/corner characteristics.
A great video here:
Coasting- The coast can be a useful tool for a variety of situations depending on what you need. Need to save fuel? Coast on entry. Need to move through a corner at a good minimum speed when you cant get on the gas too early? Coast through. In a close battle approaching a corner and looking for that late braking advantage? Coast into the braking zone. You never want to coast without reason as by definition you are not accelerating and this losing potential time, but when used strategically or based on requirement its a great tool to have.
Brake Bias- Honestly mostly feel, this is something I tend to test first in preparation, although personally I will occasionally sacrifice feel for tire wear as controller is tough to manage rubber on, so on a high wear circuit I want to mitigate that by not going excessive front or rear. There are definitely "rules of thumb" with regards to engine placement and F or R wheel drives, but I'd still implore anyone practicing to change it a bunch early in practice to find their own comfortable setting.
Strategy- This, also, is mostly a matter of personal approach but you can really go down a rabbit hole here depending on how much mental gymnastics you are willing to do. Put simply, does a pit for fuel and tire outweigh the lost time of fuel and tire saving? Easiest way is to take an average pace and compare it to a standard pit time loss.
If you want to go nuts:
What is pace on each tire, new and old? how long can you make them last? what is fuel burn like and what is the best pace you can achieve with and without fuel saving? Pit stop time loss, with and without fuel, with and without tire, and with both? Compare all the variables and plug the maths in to find where you want be, to see if the extra stop exceeds the pace of doing the one stop.
Great info here:
Ask a long question I'll give you the long answer, that's why I'm here
Braking- There are 3 main braking methods:
Threshold Braking: The most common approach, applying full brake pressure for the minimum amount of time, before releasing the brake and driving through the corner.
Cadence Braking: Applying and removing brake pressure multiple times on corner approach, most useful with cold tires but can be a good method in tight battles as well.
Trail Braking: Applying continued minimum brake pressure while entering and sometimes through the corner, best for prolonged corners or corners with little to no brake pressure needed.
Each of these has strengths and weaknesses, none are absolutely "correct" and its about finding your best way around a corner depending on driving style, preference, and track/corner characteristics.
A great video here:
Coasting- The coast can be a useful tool for a variety of situations depending on what you need. Need to save fuel? Coast on entry. Need to move through a corner at a good minimum speed when you cant get on the gas too early? Coast through. In a close battle approaching a corner and looking for that late braking advantage? Coast into the braking zone. You never want to coast without reason as by definition you are not accelerating and this losing potential time, but when used strategically or based on requirement its a great tool to have.
Brake Bias- Honestly mostly feel, this is something I tend to test first in preparation, although personally I will occasionally sacrifice feel for tire wear as controller is tough to manage rubber on, so on a high wear circuit I want to mitigate that by not going excessive front or rear. There are definitely "rules of thumb" with regards to engine placement and F or R wheel drives, but I'd still implore anyone practicing to change it a bunch early in practice to find their own comfortable setting.
Strategy- This, also, is mostly a matter of personal approach but you can really go down a rabbit hole here depending on how much mental gymnastics you are willing to do. Put simply, does a pit for fuel and tire outweigh the lost time of fuel and tire saving? Easiest way is to take an average pace and compare it to a standard pit time loss.
If you want to go nuts:
What is pace on each tire, new and old? how long can you make them last? what is fuel burn like and what is the best pace you can achieve with and without fuel saving? Pit stop time loss, with and without fuel, with and without tire, and with both? Compare all the variables and plug the maths in to find where you want be, to see if the extra stop exceeds the pace of doing the one stop.
Great info here:
Ask a long question I'll give you the long answer, that's why I'm here
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