Assetto Corsa | News and General Discussion

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That's an odd question. I wonder why they want that info?
I was wondering the same thing. I'm using 52 by the way. I tried lowering it, but the more I lowered it the more I had problems steering the car. Maybe it's a habit thing.
 
If AC read this forum, not everyone does the FB thing. hack spit. Any chance of another way to communicate this info?
I realised earlier this afternoon how redundant a post the above was, if the devs/ Kudos read this forum, THEN POST HERE DUMMY!! :banghead:

so on the off-chance I will. I use a FOV of 41 and have been doing so for a few days since changing it from a 63 which I had used for several weeks and got quite accustomed to. I sit with the top of the s/wheel approx 26 inches from my 60hz 40 inch led screen. I also try to set the interior view "Drivers Eyes" to be the furthest forward possible I am beginning to adapt to the different challenge resulting from this change of FOV to the new value and am liking it. Still not %100 sure about the sense of speed but the realism otherwise does seem quite excellent IMO.

As well as the cabin view I do like the just-in-front-of-the-windscreen view and I get a much better sense of speed in this view compared to the cabin view, but the viewpoint tends to be too high making you feel like you are driving a lorry. :( sometimes it is also a little too far forward as well so being able to adjust/set this would be fantastic.

and if Kudos don't read it... oh well.
 
I realised earlier this afternoon how redundant a post the above was, if the devs/ Kudos read this forum, THEN POST HERE DUMMY!! :banghead:

so on the off-chance I will. I use a FOV of 41 and have been doing so for a few days since changing it from a 63 which I had used for several weeks and got quite accustomed to. I sit with the top of the s/wheel approx 26 inches from my 60hz 40 inch led screen. I also try to set the interior view "Drivers Eyes" to be the furthest forward possible I am beginning to adapt to the different challenge resulting from this change of FOV to the new value and am liking it. Still not %100 sure about the sense of speed but the realism otherwise does seem quite excellent IMO.

As well as the cabin view I do like the just-in-front-of-the-windscreen view and I get a much better sense of speed in this view compared to the cabin view, but the viewpoint tends to be too high making you feel like you are driving a lorry. :( sometimes it is also a little too far forward as well so being able to adjust/set this would be fantastic.

and if Kudos don't read it... oh well.
You can. Use the official app for onboard settings. Icon is an helmet. Have fun :)
 
I was wondering the same thing. I'm using 52 by the way. I tried lowering it, but the more I lowered it the more I had problems steering the car. Maybe it's a habit thing.
I was the same way but you really do get used to it. I went down in steps of about 5 over a week or so. Of course one can play however they want there are no rules here, but I find it looks more realistic and I feel I can be more accurate in placing the car because things appear to be moving more slowly.
 
You can. Use the official app for onboard settings. Icon is an helmet. Have fun :)
I thought I'd tried to use that and just ended up messing up the cockpit view settings without altering the .. er I'll try again and if it does what I think you are saying, heehee. :)
 
I thought I'd tried to use that and just ended up messing up the cockpit view settings without altering the .. er I'll try again and if it does what I think you are saying, heehee. :)

You can always press default and save.

That's an odd question. I wonder why they want that info?

Just went through the responses. I'm amazed how many people are using 50-70:eek::eek::eek: That console gaming habit is hard to shake:grumpy:

I can only see the explanation of the rear view mirrors, but i can live without that.
I use between 34/37 with a 42" screen at 1,5m distance (think its 4ft conversion online)
 
So, I have a 27" monitor that is about 2' in front of me. ( I can touch it with my finger tips when I have my hand on the wheel). This calculates to 27.3 degree FOV. I also use Facetracknoir so that I can look around which allows me to look down to see the tach, etc as well as to the sides to see the mirrors. This isn't ideal but will hold me until the consumer version of the Rift is available. Once that comes out the challenge will be to convince my wife I will also need simvibe as well as this.
 
Hey Guys, is someone using Windows 10? If so, can anybody confirm that it runs on the dev preview of Windows 10? Thanks :D
 
Is there a general-consensus in the AC community, of which wheel is the 'best' for immersion & general feel/play ?

If I can survive waiting for a bit, and it holds out, I'd like to use my DFGT initially in AC until I've saved a bit more for a wheel upgrade.

Also, what about OS ?, is 8 problematic ?, what's the common OS ?
 
Is there a general-consensus in the AC community, of which wheel is the 'best' for immersion & general feel/play ?

If I can survive waiting for a bit, and it holds out, I'd like to use my DFGT initially in AC until I've saved a bit more for a wheel upgrade.

Also, what about OS ?, is 8 problematic ?, what's the common OS ?

All the answers you are seeking are to be found here: http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php

@CC570 forget about this, that is what you really want, LOL


PS: I want one to.
 
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Is there a general-consensus in the AC community, of which wheel is the 'best' for immersion & general feel/play ?

If I can survive waiting for a bit, and it holds out, I'd like to use my DFGT initially in AC until I've saved a bit more for a wheel upgrade.

Also, what about OS ?, is 8 problematic ?, what's the common OS ?
I had Windoze 8 for a while on my previous PC and wasn't a fan. Went with Windoze 7 on the new PC and no problems here either. I will upgrade to Windoze 10 most likely. Biggest difference between the two IMO is W7 is not slated for DirectX 12 support and DX 12 should be a boon for gamers in the next year or two.

Of the off the shelf regularly priced wheels, I am under the impression that the T300 is the best of the bunch. It's between a G27 and a T500 in terms of strength of FFB but the feedback is more refined on the T300 relative to the T500 and certainly the G27. IMO the G27 is massive bang for the buck, only $200 for the whole shebang here in Canada now and the pedals and shifter are adaptable to the T300 for about $40. So for less than the cost of the 3 pedals + shifter alone for the T300 you can have the wheel+pedals+shifter for a while, then upgrade to the T300 and use the same pedals and shifter for a while if you want, then upgrade the pedals and shifter later. To me that makes a lot of economic sense because I'm going to warn you now, 3 pedals + shifter + heel and toe on older cars + manual shifting on newer cars is the crack cocaine of sim racing:eek::eek::eek::eek:. You might even find the G27 floats your boat and you may not want to upgrade as it's still a very good wheel.

If you can get a G27 for around $200 + GTEYE pedal upgrade it's an excellent value and a massive step up from the DFGT (I know this from experience)and an excellent stopgap between the DFGT and the T300. Being able to re-use the pedals and shifter is a huge bonus and virtually pays for the wheel all by itself.
 
@Kurei Force feedback fade is something to take into account. The T300 and Fanatec Clubsport V2 will perform best in this regard thanks to using brushless motors. High level wheels are easy to sort through - if you can afford a SimXperience Accuforce..... buy it, down to Clubsport V2 dollars.... buy it. It's the range that you're most likely looking at that is difficult. T300 would be the front runner for me, perhaps paired at some point with Clubsport V2 pedals. Connecting wheel and pedals separately via usb is something to keep in mind, as upgrades are that much simpler to deal with.
 
Thanks for the info guys, I really like what I've heard for the T300 wheel, but to get that magical third-pedal for it means some extra spending, so I'll most likely go with a G27 with the brake-mod to stay within my 'total' budget for my next-gen plans, and enjoy that for a bit and see what the wheel market looks like when upgrade time comes again.

I asked about Win 8, as that's what my brother's laptop has (current source of old sim-racers), and I can't say I'm a fan, but I'll look into it some more and where DX12 support will be going. 👍
 
You'll love it, and coming from another gear driven wheel, no need for warnings on that.

For the future, keep in mind that Leo Bodnar does a cable to enable direct usb connection for the G27 pedals.
 
Thanks for the info guys, I really like what I've heard for the T300 wheel, but to get that magical third-pedal for it means some extra spending, so I'll most likely go with a G27 with the brake-mod to stay within my 'total' budget for my next-gen plans, and enjoy that for a bit and see what the wheel market looks like when upgrade time comes again.

I asked about Win 8, as that's what my brother's laptop has (current source of old sim-racers), and I can't say I'm a fan, but I'll look into it some more and where DX12 support will be going. 👍
AFAIK, it's a free upgrade to W10 from W7 when you want to and DX12 isn't a factor in racing games yet although it is used in a couple of games IIRC.
 
How does a CSR compare to above mentioned wheels in comparison?
The CSR is pretty much exactly the same as the Porsche range of Fanatec wheels, the very plastic rim being an upside in regards to weight and a downside in regards to look and tactile feel. It sits on the same level as the G27 give or take, based on preferences. I expect a T300 would feel significantly better in regards to smoothness, due to the brushless motor and (I think) non-toothed belt(s).
 
The CSR is pretty much exactly the same as the Porsche range of Fanatec wheels, the very plastic rim being an upside in regards to weight and a downside in regards to look and tactile feel. It sits on the same level as the G27 give or take, based on preferences. I expect a T300 would feel significantly better in regards to smoothness, due to the brushless motor and (I think) non-toothed belt(s).
I own both the CSR and Porsche wheels. Handles on the CSR where you hold the rim are alcantara so it doesn't matter much. I was wondering more about the feel in general for FFB, would that be on par with a G27 or a bit better?
 
I own both the CSR and Porsche wheels. Handles on the CSR where you hold the rim are alcantara so it doesn't matter much. I was wondering more about the feel in general for FFB, would that be on par with a G27 or a bit better?
I believe @BrandonW77 had both of those wheels. He might be able to help.
 
I had the G27 and the GT3 RS V2 Porsche wheel (never had the CSR). They feel pretty similar to each other, G27 probably is slightly better (GT3 RS can feel a bit mushy and slow to return to center). G27 is certainly more well-built than the GT3 RS and it has a much better mounting system too. 6 of one, half-dozen of the other pretty much, but the Fanatec has a much more flexible eco-system which has its benefits. And the G27 has that self-destructing encoder wheel, so there's that.
 
Darn and here i was thinking i was fancy with my fanatec.
We could to and fro forever on CSR, GT3, etc. vs G27, but again, it's all about preferences. Our trusted @LogiForce, if I remember correctly, swears by belt drive if that helps.

Force feedback fade is the often unrecognised villain. On some wheels it can take less than 10 minutes of use for the ffb to become limp compared to what it should be. I own a DFGT, a couple of Porsche wheels, and an ECCI 7000. They range in value from $100 right up to $3000 for the ECCI, but I can have a great time using each of them. One big difference though is that only one will feel the same after two hours as it felt in the first minute. No prizes for guessing which one.

We've got too much off topic material here though, so we should move over to the hardware section or stop.
 
We could to and fro forever on CSR, GT3, etc. vs G27, but again, it's all about preferences. Our trusted @LogiForce, if I remember correctly, swears by belt drive if that helps.

Force feedback fade is the often unrecognised villain. On some wheels it can take less than 10 minutes of use for the ffb to become limp compared to what it should be. I own a DFGT, a couple of Porsche wheels, and an ECCI 7000. They range in value from $100 right up to $3000 for the ECCI, but I can have a great time using each of them. One big difference though is that only one will feel the same after two hours as it felt in the first minute. No prizes for guessing which one.

We've got too much off topic material here though, so we should move over to the hardware section or stop.
I shouldn't have read this:sick: Next time I fire up the G27 I'm going to be thinking of fade and sure enough if I think about it, I will find it:ouch::ouch::ouch:
 
I shouldn't have read this:sick: Next time I fire up the G27 I'm going to be thinking of fade and sure enough if I think about it, I will find it:ouch::ouch::ouch:
One GTP member (@oohhh yeah) used to put a freezer bag (you know, with the blue stuff in it) on their G27 when they would race. Obviously had felt the fade. The low mechanical drag would help, but yeah.... it's very much there.

The Fanatec motors are worth literally $2 each, Logitech's are probably very similar. Even the T500's $100 motor exhibits noticeable fade. The Fanatec V2 is probably the cheapest non-fade wheel.

"Am I evil? Yes I am" - Diamond Head / Metallica / Me.
 
One GTP member (@oohhh yeah) used to put a freezer bag (you know, with the blue stuff in it) on their G27 when they would race. Obviously had felt the fade. The low mechanical drag would help, but yeah.... it's very much there.

The Fanatec motors are worth literally $2 each, Logitech's are probably very similar. Even the T500's $100 motor exhibits noticeable fade. The Fanatec V2 is probably the cheapest non-fade wheel.

"Am I evil? Yes I am" - Diamond Head / Metallica / Me.
I'll be driving a dramatically understeering Mini around Autumn Ring shortly. It'll be my first test:sly:
 
A T500 with a Noctua fan to replace the original has minimal fade as well. It pushes a lot more air with less noise and using less power (reduces electronics smell).
It really needs that Noctua swap though as the original fan is horrible quality at horrible performance. It is totally worth it though.

The T500 has a lot of cogging when compared to a CSWv2. When I went back to it during CSWv2 beta testing it felt like I was sawing wood with a coarse handsaw. So it masked a lot of detail, but it is still better than a gear driven wheel from my experience.
The reason is that because the slack in between gears you get a bit of delay as well as extra unwanted noise as the gears bounce off of the teeth during rattling road feedback.

The more direct a motor can feed its effects to a wheel the better it is. So the best is a direct drive, than a belt drive and than gear driven.
 
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