Best car for Le Mans 30 minute 700 race?

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United Kingdom
United Kingdom
So far I have been beating this race fairly easily in the Genesis G70 Gr.4 with minor adjustments. However, are there any other cars that are any better to do this race in? I was thinking maybe of getting the Toyota Supra GT500 97 but is it actually worth it if I already have a car that I can comfortably win the race with? Would the difference be noticeable or fairly similar? 1.8 mil is a lot to spend simply for a few seconds of time difference.
 
In an effort to recoup some of my expenses since 1.34 I took the swapped Mazda3, R34 and R33 to LeMans.
The Mazda is ok. Horrible front tire wear, good on fuel and is just OK in the rain for an AWD car. I tried to even out the tire wear by adding some weight to the back, but as I assumed didn’t really help that issue and only made the car less fuel efficient and slower.
The R33 however is great. Excellent tire wear, excellent fuel efficiency and great in the rain. The only downside is top speed as it needs an extra gear.
The R34 is hands down the bests of the 3. It’s super easy on RM tires, has the best fuel efficiency of the 3 and the rain doesn’t bother it one bit.

The Escudo is still the champ here, all things considered, but the R34 gives it a run for it’s money and the R33 isn’t far behind, would probably even top the R34 if it had another gear. The Mazda, while new and fun, can’t compete with them though in regards to lap times or handling in the rain.
 
I got to similar conclusions. The engine swapped r34 is amazing. Super fast and great on fuel
Also tested 787b engine swaps mazda rx8, rx7 and mazda 3 (still havent tested the mazda rx7 '90). I think the rx7 is still the best 787b engine swap
And I tested the engine swaped silvia gr4 and 911 '16. Silvia handles great but does only 2 laps on fm6. 911 '16 is just amazing, handles great and does 3 laps on fm1.
 
In an effort to recoup some of my expenses since 1.34 I took the swapped Mazda3, R34 and R33 to LeMans.
The Mazda is ok. Horrible front tire wear, good on fuel and is just OK in the rain for an AWD car. I tried to even out the tire wear by adding some weight to the back, but as I assumed didn’t really help that issue and only made the car less fuel efficient and slower.
The R33 however is great. Excellent tire wear, excellent fuel efficiency and great in the rain. The only downside is top speed as it needs an extra gear.
The R34 is hands down the bests of the 3. It’s super easy on RM tires, has the best fuel efficiency of the 3 and the rain doesn’t bother it one bit.

The Escudo is still the champ here, all things considered, but the R34 gives it a run for it’s money and the R33 isn’t far behind, would probably even top the R34 if it had another gear. The Mazda, while new and fun, can’t compete with them though in regards to lap times or handling in the rain.
The engine swapped r34 is amazing. Super fast and great on fuel
Also tested 787b engine swaps mazda rx8, rx7 and mazda 3 (still havent tested the mazda rx7 '90). I think the rx7 is still the best 787b engine swap overrall
And I tested the engine swaped silvia gr4 and 911 '16. Silvia handles great but does only 2 laps on fm6. 911 '16 is just amazing, handles great and does 3 laps on fm1.
 
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So far I have been beating this race fairly easily in the Genesis G70 Gr.4 with minor adjustments. However, are there any other cars that are any better to do this race in? I was thinking maybe of getting the Toyota Supra GT500 97 but is it actually worth it if I already have a car that I can comfortably win the race with? Would the difference be noticeable or fairly similar? 1.8 mil is a lot to spend simply for a few seconds of time difference.
Any of the cars that I have posted tunes for will all fit the bill. The Honda 272 has fuel for nearly 10 laps and a set of RH will last the whole race.
 
I did this race fairly easy with the AMG GT3 20.

Start with 3 laps on FM1. Adjust a bit if I used more than 33% fuel after lap one.

Then pit in after lap 3, and change to IM tires if there is much rain. Else I just stay on the racing hard the whole race. After I pit I go out on FM6 and stay there for the rest of the race.

I did this maybe 12 - 15 times with the recent physics model. Never had and issue.
 
I think there is not such a thing like " best car " in that race ,a race that used to race just for griding and that's all.
Many cars can compete there with 100% success , fast cars ,slower cars ,easy cars or difficult cars .
No matter how fast you are it depends on the AI ( and weather) if you will run close to 30 min. or close to 32 etc.
Its mostly what are you looking for, you want challenge? You want " safety" ? You run in difficult mode or an easy one ? and many other things anyone want .
I try this race with different cars but the most " worry free" is what i use from the beginning.
I took the nissan motul ( 16 ) ,put intermediate tyres all the way and FM 6 from the beginning.
Its easy to get 6 or 7 laps without pit and without worries about rain and when .
The setup is slow on straights but you get your blood back during the final section cause can go flat out.
Lapping at 4.31 ,more or less and its easy to finish under 32 min.
Of course is on easy mode , try it once on hard and couldn't win ,end up third .
Settings are like this
View attachment 1236135
And when weather helps i challenge my self for faster lap and faster race if silly 0.500 penalties not applied.

That's my option for that race and for me is quite enjoyable mostly cause the grip its outstanding with or without rain ( not heavy rain ) and you just drive .
Thank you for sharing your setup and car. I gave it a shot and it works wonders! Most of the time I can finish the race on the 6th lap and of course I never have to go into the pits. The absolute best setup! Thanks so much for sharing!!
 
I’ve been having a blast with the engine swapped 930 Turbo and Priano’s tune. Highly recommended. Not a complete slam dunk if it is a dry race or you get your strategy a bit wrong, so keeps you honest.

if you want a real challenge, try the 930 Turbo with it’s regular engine and Priano tune. Almost as fast as the 700pp limited engine swap option but you need to limit the car to FM5 to eke out 3 laps and those 3 laps can hurt your time, particularly in a dry race.

The car is just such a joy to drive in either configuration.
 
If you want a fun drive use the Ferrari 500 Mondial Pininfarina. It can do the whole race on R/S tyres and you get 5.5 laps of fuel.This car will outbrake and corners better than the modern cars in this race by 10 to 20 mph.For a car built in the mid 50’s it is astoundingly good and more than a match for 700pp cars,plus it sounds bloody awesome!
IMG_0752.jpeg
 
I use a downtuned Mazda 787B with fuel set to 6 so I can do all 7 laps without needing to pit for gas, I do pit 2nd lap and get into my intermediate racing tires for the rain that almost always happens during lap 3-4
 
Since is available at the LCD , i grab the chance to post the tune i use in this race with the Nissan R92CP which is a superior car ( with mazda 787 also ) for lemans and Sartegna also.
The tune is a copy from the guys use at Sartegna trying to bust ( successfully ) the 23 min. barrier
IMG_20230727_215816854_HDR.jpg
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Uses the manual gear box and mid turbo .
Very fast car , safe and easy 4 laps stint at FM1 .
Without penalties and not much effort can easily run at 3.53s , fast laps are close to 3.50s or under .
My record is 3.49 high at clean lap with " free air " in front.
It's a " must buy " car especially for griding purposes.
Tomorrow ill upload the 787 witch is another must buy car for the same reasons.
Especially new players, must take care not to miss those two cars .
 
AMG Black Series tuned to your PP limit preference. Mine has nothing special done to it. FM 2 until RH swap at end of lap 2 for IM's. FM 6 or 5 after that depending on your coasting style for the +1 lap win.
 
Here is the 787 settings for lemans.
Use the stock gearbox and high rpm turbo.
IMG_20230728_224352457_HDR.jpg


Both versions R92CP and 787 are with the minimum weight, adding more weight and more power might be quicker but i haven't try it .
787 aero settings are those that gave me the lowest pp .
The pp system doesn't work so well in this one .

Unfortunately they both expire from LCD( R92CP tomorrow ) but the new guys who have them can try them and enjoy the ride .
Both cars are capable of 4 laps witch means you have enough time to adapt to weather changes and program your pitstop.

If someone has faster versions for those two, i will be glad to run them.
 
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I had wondered where this thread dropped to. I recently have started doing this race 1 or 2 times a day now. The LCD has had a lot of cars I've wanted lately and has wiped out my credits. Anyway, once I win with a car, I'll move onto another one, right now working on my Gr.4 cars since that is primarily what you're competing against, my assumption is this will be the most challenging way unless you're trying to use a road car. Once I finish with my Gr.4 cars, I'll see how a Gr.3 , Gr.2 and Gr.1 cars do. For me the AI is on maximum spiciness (max chilies - hard AI) .

For Gr.4 cars my strategy is to make it a 1-stop race starting on RS tires. Most of the cars will make 3 laps on FM1. By the end of the 2nd lap, weather usually will start showing up on the map if you're zoomed all the way out. Then by the end of lap 3 it should be on you, pit and tire change accordingly (RS / IM - depending on weather), refuel. The 2nd stint will require some adjustments to FM to make the rest of the race. I'll typically run FM1-2 from Mulsanne to the Porsche curves, then FM6 everywhere else. Usually finish the race on fumes.

My Gr.4 tuning only involved reducing the downforce and lowering the ride height a bit to reduce drag.

Some interesting cars of note:

I was most impressed by the Toyota GR 86 Gr.4 - This car can almost make 4 laps on FM1. So with only having to stop once, you can be at maximum push for almost the entire race.

I was least impressed by the Toyota Supra Gr.4 - Unimpressive fuel economy, high tire degradation, body roll and would tend to oversteer even in TC1 more so than the other Gr.4 cars. Surprising when this car is often the meta in BoP events.

The Dodge Viper Gr.4 seemed to be the fastest - In FM1 this car blows by just about every car on the grid, but this comes at a cost and you'll need to reduce to a lower FM level to make it to lap 3 to pit and then the 4 laps of the 2nd stint.

The Jaguar F-Type Gr.4 and Ferrari 458 Gr.4 are good here - Having 7 gears really helps save fuel on the long straights, even in FM1 the fuel should just about last the first 3 laps before pitting. Pretty good for the V-8 motors.

I'll be curious to work on the higher classed cars here. But changing up the approach to this race each time makes the work for credits feel much less grindy.
 
I had wondered where this thread dropped to. I recently have started doing this race 1 or 2 times a day now. The LCD has had a lot of cars I've wanted lately and has wiped out my credits. Anyway, once I win with a car, I'll move onto another one, right now working on my Gr.4 cars since that is primarily what you're competing against, my assumption is this will be the most challenging way unless you're trying to use a road car. Once I finish with my Gr.4 cars, I'll see how a Gr.3 , Gr.2 and Gr.1 cars do. For me the AI is on maximum spiciness (max chilies - hard AI) .

For Gr.4 cars my strategy is to make it a 1-stop race starting on RS tires. Most of the cars will make 3 laps on FM1. By the end of the 2nd lap, weather usually will start showing up on the map if you're zoomed all the way out. Then by the end of lap 3 it should be on you, pit and tire change accordingly (RS / IM - depending on weather), refuel. The 2nd stint will require some adjustments to FM to make the rest of the race. I'll typically run FM1-2 from Mulsanne to the Porsche curves, then FM6 everywhere else. Usually finish the race on fumes.

My Gr.4 tuning only involved reducing the downforce and lowering the ride height a bit to reduce drag.

Some interesting cars of note:

I was most impressed by the Toyota GR 86 Gr.4 - This car can almost make 4 laps on FM1. So with only having to stop once, you can be at maximum push for almost the entire race.

I was least impressed by the Toyota Supra Gr.4 - Unimpressive fuel economy, high tire degradation, body roll and would tend to oversteer even in TC1 more so than the other Gr.4 cars. Surprising when this car is often the meta in BoP events.

The Dodge Viper Gr.4 seemed to be the fastest - In FM1 this car blows by just about every car on the grid, but this comes at a cost and you'll need to reduce to a lower FM level to make it to lap 3 to pit and then the 4 laps of the 2nd stint.

The Jaguar F-Type Gr.4 and Ferrari 458 Gr.4 are good here - Having 7 gears really helps save fuel on the long straights, even in FM1 the fuel should just about last the first 3 laps before pitting. Pretty good for the V-8 motors.

I'll be curious to work on the higher classed cars here. But changing up the approach to this race each time makes the work for credits feel much less grindy.
I always use the Viper. For 3 laps just shift gears early at 6000 i think?. For 4 laps yes FM would be necessary but hardly ever had to do it. For 2 laps is so fast when you can push the gears to the limit, really nice. Usually do 3-2-2 or 2-3-2 depending on the weather.
 
I agree @kjb and @OldandSlow , in fact i agree with all preferences that someone like to use in the particular race.
Before 1.31 witch change tyre wear i was a huge fan of non stop cars,after that my only two stop car is the Escudo but i have long time to use it .
I don't " like " to use a 2 lap car cause of fuel and since AT gears is what am used , saving fuels is out of my capabilities.
Group C cars are well known as griding " mules " and are what i use mostly this period.
I use FM1 ( instead of FM6 at the past ) did my stop when weather allow me and at dry conditions am trying to get the best from the car .
My tunes above are for the newer players( we have some of them from time to time) mostly in order to make their life easier at that part.

At Tokyo and Sartegna were weather conditions are steady, the guys who run them ,use to find different solutions to make their runs more interesting.
Are trying with faster cars or slower cars , they put a time limit to " break" and other stuff.
Am trying to get the best possible lap from the cars i use and that put out of my preference every 2 lap car or 3 with fuel saving management.
Its what i like right now but i don't judge as right or wrong what someone else use to do.
It would be interesting for me if i had the chance to share settings for faster lap times in dry conditions but i know that is difficult since most players who stand at this side are not using this race due to weather changes and i don't blame them.
 
Wearing out my options with minimum weight with 787 , i try to " play " with weight, aero and power to see what i can get from lap times at this race.
This car has a very " glitch" set up and its easy to find out by clicking the aero or weight only by a single digit.

Anyway this one is definitely a faster version than previous one ,its heavier but more powerful also .
Standard transmission and high rpm turbo .
IMG_20230803_225350135_HDR.jpg

Lap times are close to 3.50s and lower if weather and traffic permit it .
Easy to pull out a 4 lap stint,no save fuels etc. needed.
 
Wearing out my options with minimum weight with 787 , i try to " play " with weight, aero and power to see what i can get from lap times at this race.
This car has a very " glitch" set up and its easy to find out by clicking the aero or weight only by a single digit.

Anyway this one is definitely a faster version than previous one ,its heavier but more powerful also .
Standard transmission and high rpm turbo .
View attachment 1277391
Lap times are close to 3.50s and lower if weather and traffic permit it .
Easy to pull out a 4 lap stint,no save fuels etc. needed.
I found if you install the manual custom transmission, not the racing custom, your PP will drop 12-15 points, enough to bump the ECU up 2 clicks as it will increase speed...
 
I found if you install the manual custom transmission, not the racing custom, your PP will drop 12-15 points, enough to bump the ECU up 2 clicks as it will increase speed...
You have right about that , its something that i already use but with this car doesn't happens.
Its very " tricky" car when you try tune it at 700pp .
 
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