Best deal you've gotten in the auction house?

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Last night I hopped on Forza for the first time in months, and decided to look around for some good car deals. Usually I try to buy a car below its "new" price, tune it up (for free with affinity) and sell it for a profit.

Anyway, I looked for some supercar deals, and to my shock I found some guy selling a Mclaren F1 with a buyout of $200,000! Sure I can get the car for free when I level up a bit more, but I couldn't resist getting a 3 million dollar car for such a mark off.

So ForzaPlanet, what are the best deals you've ever gotten?
 
Wow, I just saw some other guy buyout a Ferrari 330 P4 that was listed at only $25,000!
 
Got an X999 R18TDi for 2500cr the other day, plus a few other R1 class LMPs for similarly low prices.
 
I always visist the auction house before buying a car now, 99% of the time you get a bargin compared to the RRP lol. Can't remember my best though
 
Actually, I've just broken my record for the best non-buyout deal earlier today. 2,260 for a 250 GTO. Nice when that happens. :)
 
Numerous 250 GTOs and TRs for 1,000cr.

I never have this sort of luck. Everytime there is a GTO or a TR or even a Daytona Cobra close to closing, the price is high as heck. Then there are the ones that are cheap, but they are too far out for me to attempt to bid on.
 
There's always deals in the AH if you want them. There's just a method to the madness in how you look. One thing's for sure, don't get into bid battles unless you REALLY have to have that car. For every bid war you get tied up in, 20 cars go off the lot cheap.

I've picked up the Jeff Koons BMW Racer for $2600, Audi DTM and Mercedes DTM's, the Sterling Moss Mercedes and the old P330 Ferrari for $2260.

I picked up the Yokohama Gallardo racer for 6K the other day and an SSC Ultimate Aero for just under 15. Also got another Diablo GTR for 9 grand. Countless expensive cars are out there waiting if you want to find them.

I happen to love love flipping 1K/2K cars for 50K/150K with a decent tune and paint..?B)
 
I seen those. A while ago I scored an Ultimate Aero for about 25,000 CR. And the gift gars tend to be inexpensive (P4's, GT40's, Audi R15++'s, Bugatti Veyron's), but the ones off the beten path are a bit pricy, like the 250 TR. I guess I have to take baby steps and pounce if I see a deal on one of the cars I really want.

I cannot get my car flipping that I was doing on FM3 rolling in FM4. Maybe I should look at doing more than a metallic Ford Fiesta with a color matched Ford logo on it.
 
I was cleaning out my garage the other day and had a car to sell for 100c. So I figured I'd do better in the AH. I listed it for $1000 for buy out. It was sold while I was still in the AH
That's a deal the other guy/gal couldn't resist.
 
I was cleaning out my garage the other day and had a car to sell for 100c. So I figured I'd do better in the AH. I listed it for $1000 for buy out. It was sold while I was still in the AH
That's a deal the other guy/gal couldn't resist.

Usually 1/4 to 1/2 dealer price is a pretty good bet of it being bought out, unless it's a really, really common car like an Audi S 4. Even then if you add something to it that someone can get some cash out of, you can get away with more than a grand.

If it's something that common, I try to put something unique paint wise on it, throw some wheels and wings on it and donate as a prize or send it to someone as a gift. They can sell it or use it or tune it or whatever. At least I know something good came out of it.

There's no sense in a $1000 buyout. If you really just have to auction it off, just put it up for the grand and let it fly, you never know you might just get lucky and make something.
 
I kid you not...$115,000 for a Shelby Daytona Coupe. Popped into the auction house just in time, as there was less than a minute remaining on the auction.
 
I kid you not...$115,000 for a Shelby Daytona Coupe. Popped into the auction house just in time, as there was less than a minute remaining on the auction.

Nice..!

I thought I got lucky with the last one I stole for just north of 200K.

Though stealing a Pagani Zonda R for 28K or the Koons BMW racer for $2,860 comes pretty close... :lol:

Those Shelby's can skyrocket pretty quick.

I figure any time you can grab anything north of a $3 mil car for less than 200K it's a good day.

Specially when you get into the stratospheric cars in the 10 million range.

Nice steal indeed.
 
I'm about to test that theory. I will post the results once it is said and done.

I had a time for a couple months I couldn't drive at all.

I started with 3 million.

Just doing AH cars alone, in those months I ended up with 38 million plus.

I don't want to give away the store here, but there are definitely ways to use the AH to make a good chunk of change without putting half million price tags on junk "hey look I can put a logo on a car" paint schemes on 62,000 different cars.

In order of importance:
-1- The car LOOKS good. Even if just a single color, it's a well done, thought out approach. It's not too gaudy but not run of the mill either.
-2- Be at the top of an Index. My best sellers for run of the mill cars are B, A and S class. Even a solid E/F/D car will net you $$ if it's a decent tuned car. Assume the buyer will tune it, so anything you get free parts for, put them all on it. You don't have to use them, but it's something that gives a car value, and people will start following your auctions because they know they don't have to worry about buying anything.
-3- If you want to, advertise it. If it's got nice design, put a picture up in a thread or on your store front. Get people used to looking at what's coming there. Use the description space to sell the car. Make sure you post some sort of leader board time for the tune if it's anything worth writing home about. (..I don't advertise at all, BTW. I put a pic on my SF of some cars, but they don't get looked at because I never tell anyone I put them up. It's just so I can DL to the computer and use them in thread posts when I want to..)
-4- Don't be afraid to put the Aero or wheels on. People can SEE those. They know there's near 5K in the car already. I do not buy Turbos or SC's, Drive train or engine conversions unless it's for a specific car. As an example, I have a B510 sedan V6 race package with V6 badges. If it says V6 on the car, it is going to have a V6. I also have a ZR67 with the motor upgrade in it. It has special ZR67 badges, so I make sure it has a ZR motor in it.
-5- Be wary of setting buyouts too high. The objective is to get the buyout and move the car. That $1,600 2002 is nothing special. Having it with Aero, Race rims, Indexed nice with a decent race paint scheme and decent tune nets me 47K to 57K depending. I've sold all but one out of the many I've put up, and they all went for buyout.
-6- Keep track of what moves and go after them. I have a few pet cars I always look for because I know for a fact I can get north of a 100K with minimal time. I have the setups and paints done, and I can swap colors or looks to create unique cars fairly quickly.
-7- The hardest one... Don't keep doing the same thing over and over again. Make each car unique. If you put the design on the SF, don't leave it there long, or change the number. Make the AH cars a little different from the SF design. I try to rotate the designs to minimize how many get out. The AH cars have a base tune that is very drive-able, so it isn't just a look that the person is buying.
-8- (edit) I NEVER start a car at $1000 dollars. I always start at 7K, because 7 is my lucky number. I also do it because everyone can see there's 5K in the car, they can sell that off and still sell the car for 2K and break even.

Basically, I get 90% of what I put in the car regardless, and they get a car they can always break even on regardless. Neither party can lose, so it's just plain good business to make sure you aren't giving away the store while still making sure a buyer doesn't get shafted with a car if they can't do anything with. It's win win for you both, and that's always a good thing.

I also always end my buy outs with 7, as in 47, 57, 107. It's a way to stand out a bit from everyone else. One thing I stay away from is the 6, especially 666. I know it sounds stupid, but of any problems I've had, that or it's relevant meaning for either side of the debate have had something to do with 99% of them. I don't need the headache. Anytime you use it, it's a 50/50 shot you're going to have the best or worst seller experience ever. Seven actually has the same effect, so much so I'm thinking of switching to "crazy 8"... ?B)

Some additional stuff that's useful, hopefully...

Do what ever you can to make the cars you sell unique, and make them a worthwhile investment and you WILL sell cars. Even if you don't advertise, you will get a cult following over time that knows you deliver a solid package and aren't just trying to rip people for easy cash.

Also accept that the AH is finicky, you don't always remember to add all the parts or something gets lost in translation. Sometimes it's just not your day. Always keep a chunk of time, like a month or so in mind when figuring how well you do. Look at the trends. If a car is dying out, stop buying it for awhile.

When bidding, avoid getting caught up in bid wars. 20 cars will leave the AH by the time you haggle two or three times. You'll never see them because you're trying to pick up the same car as someone else, and they won't stop until you're over paying. ALWAYS remember there are people in the AH that bid up cars on purpose to drive the price up. It's a tactic to artificially puff up a car's value so they can undercut everyone and move cars.

Bid a couple times and then stick them with it. let them over pay for the car they're trying to sell. So what if it saves you 10 grand if you win. The time you wasted just cost you a 3 grand Sterling Moss, a $1600 C63 Mercedes, a 20K GTR Spec V and 4 grand BMW that goes for 100K in the dealership.

Time is always more valuable when buying than saving a few bucks on a cheap car. Save haggling for when you have cars your really, really want.

When bidding on those cars, do so exclusively and leave the other stuff alone. Always have a specific reason to be in the AH at any given time, a mission to complete.

Lastly, KNOW what are prize cars and what aren't. ANY time you can get a non prize car for cheap that isn't an econo-shoebox in the new car dealer for 5 grand it's a good day. Always be looking out for non prize cars or for prize cars that few people pick that are decent performers.

You don't just get handed money as a seller. You do have to work for it.

If you do and you take an approach of taking care of your customers with your cars, you can and likely will do quite well for yourself.

..
 
Doc Savage,

That was excellent information. I will adhere to it when ever I am dealing with the AH. My experement was to see what's selling and what's not. I posted a stock Saturn SKY redline which did not have a paint job on it at 1000 Cr, just to see what the people would consider a good discount for that car is. The car went for about 1/2 of it's dealer price, which was exactly what I was expecting. So I lost 8,000 on it, but I noticed that an interested bid appeared right away. I guess there is interest in the car because it isn't a prize car.

I had 2 other sales that were very successful, but those had decent top of class build and tunes. Plus one was a "hot" seller. There had to be about 500 or so listed for sale, most with 150,000 Cr as the buyout. My sale went for 50,606. A little over twice the cars dealer price.
 
I had a time for a couple months I couldn't drive at all.

I started with 3 million.

Just doing AH cars alone, in those months I ended up with 38 million plus.

I don't want to give away the store here, but there are definitely ways to use the AH to make a good chunk of change without putting half million price tags on junk "hey look I can put a logo on a car" paint schemes on 62,000 different cars.

In order of importance:
-1- The car LOOKS good. Even if just a single color, it's a well done, thought out approach. It's not too gaudy but not run of the mill either.
-2- Be at the top of an Index. My best sellers for run of the mill cars are B, A and S class. Even a solid E/F/D car will net you $$ if it's a decent tuned car. Assume the buyer will tune it, so anything you get free parts for, put them all on it. You don't have to use them, but it's something that gives a car value, and people will start following your auctions because they know they don't have to worry about buying anything.
-3- If you want to, advertise it. If it's got nice design, put a picture up in a thread or on your store front. Get people used to looking at what's coming there. Use the description space to sell the car. Make sure you post some sort of leader board time for the tune if it's anything worth writing home about. (..I don't advertise at all, BTW. I put a pic on my SF of some cars, but they don't get looked at because I never tell anyone I put them up. It's just so I can DL to the computer and use them in thread posts when I want to..)
-4- Don't be afraid to put the Aero or wheels on. People can SEE those. They know there's near 5K in the car already. I do not buy Turbos or SC's, Drive train or engine conversions unless it's for a specific car. As an example, I have a B510 sedan V6 race package with V6 badges. If it says V6 on the car, it is going to have a V6. I also have a ZR67 with the motor upgrade in it. It has special ZR67 badges, so I make sure it has a ZR motor in it.
-5- Be wary of setting buyouts too high. The objective is to get the buyout and move the car. That $1,600 2002 is nothing special. Having it with Aero, Race rims, Indexed nice with a decent race paint scheme and decent tune nets me 47K to 57K depending. I've sold all but one out of the many I've put up, and they all went for buyout.
-6- Keep track of what moves and go after them. I have a few pet cars I always look for because I know for a fact I can get north of a 100K with minimal time. I have the setups and paints done, and I can swap colors or looks to create unique cars fairly quickly.
-7- The hardest one... Don't keep doing the same thing over and over again. Make each car unique. If you put the design on the SF, don't leave it there long, or change the number. Make the AH cars a little different from the SF design. I try to rotate the designs to minimize how many get out. The AH cars have a base tune that is very drive-able, so it isn't just a look that the person is buying.
-8- (edit) I NEVER start a car at $1000 dollars. I always start at 7K, because 7 is my lucky number. I also do it because everyone can see there's 5K in the car, they can sell that off and still sell the car for 2K and break even.

Basically, I get 90% of what I put in the car regardless, and they get a car they can always break even on regardless. Neither party can lose, so it's just plain good business to make sure you aren't giving away the store while still making sure a buyer doesn't get shafted with a car if they can't do anything with. It's win win for you both, and that's always a good thing.

I also always end my buy outs with 7, as in 47, 57, 107. It's a way to stand out a bit from everyone else. One thing I stay away from is the 6, especially 666. I know it sounds stupid, but of any problems I've had, that or it's relevant meaning for either side of the debate have had something to do with 99% of them. I don't need the headache. Anytime you use it, it's a 50/50 shot you're going to have the best or worst seller experience ever. Seven actually has the same effect, so much so I'm thinking of switching to "crazy 8"... ?B)

Some additional stuff that's useful, hopefully...

Do what ever you can to make the cars you sell unique, and make them a worthwhile investment and you WILL sell cars. Even if you don't advertise, you will get a cult following over time that knows you deliver a solid package and aren't just trying to rip people for easy cash.

Also accept that the AH is finicky, you don't always remember to add all the parts or something gets lost in translation. Sometimes it's just not your day. Always keep a chunk of time, like a month or so in mind when figuring how well you do. Look at the trends. If a car is dying out, stop buying it for awhile.

When bidding, avoid getting caught up in bid wars. 20 cars will leave the AH by the time you haggle two or three times. You'll never see them because you're trying to pick up the same car as someone else, and they won't stop until you're over paying. ALWAYS remember there are people in the AH that bid up cars on purpose to drive the price up. It's a tactic to artificially puff up a car's value so they can undercut everyone and move cars.

Bid a couple times and then stick them with it. let them over pay for the car they're trying to sell. So what if it saves you 10 grand if you win. The time you wasted just cost you a 3 grand Sterling Moss, a $1600 C63 Mercedes, a 20K GTR Spec V and 4 grand BMW that goes for 100K in the dealership.

Time is always more valuable when buying than saving a few bucks on a cheap car. Save haggling for when you have cars your really, really want.

When bidding on those cars, do so exclusively and leave the other stuff alone. Always have a specific reason to be in the AH at any given time, a mission to complete.

Lastly, KNOW what are prize cars and what aren't. ANY time you can get a non prize car for cheap that isn't an econo-shoebox in the new car dealer for 5 grand it's a good day. Always be looking out for non prize cars or for prize cars that few people pick that are decent performers.

You don't just get handed money as a seller. You do have to work for it.

If you do and you take an approach of taking care of your customers with your cars, you can and likely will do quite well for yourself.

..

Your real job is a used car salesman is it
 
Your real job is a used car salesman is it

:lol:

Managed a chain store Auto Repair Shop for a few years, but that's as close as I got...

But most of my jobs in the previous working life had some sort of sales bit to them, and I've been to more sales and management "training" seminars than I care to remember. In all actuality, much of that is the only stuff I remember. I'd much rather remember the times I was on a hot date, but those memories left with Elvis and the head ordeal.

So I guess in a way you're probably right, I *could* have sold used cars if needed to before the incident that ended my working days.

@Dopplegagger...:

Always remember the two golden rules...

-1- Not everything is bullet proof...
-2- The exception that proves the rule.

And Murphy's Law concerning those two...

If it can go wrong, it likely will... And it will happen to you in 3...2...1...

As you discovered, there's a method to the madness.. Not everything works like you hoped, but other things tend to work better than expected.

It's rare when anyone sees things as quickly or as thoroughly as you have, job well done sir. I'd bow or tip the hat, but I'd fall over and I can't remember where I put it. But congrats on some exceptional depth perception.

My biggest problems come when I over estimate a car's buy out. Just because I think it's worth X dollars, that don't make it so. We all do that occasionally, but I am of the (..1/2 that's left of my..) mind to push the envelope as opposed to play it safe.

I'd rather lose one car aiming high than sell 10 aiming low.

In the end the money's the same...

However the joy that accompanies the seeing of the 9 bought out for good money vs the 10 knowing you're low balling just to move a car makes aiming a little higher a far more fun and worthwhile venture.

Simply put, you can't put a price on happy...

And getting a good dollar and making a nice profit makes you very happy.

Well it does me anyway. "Your mileage may vary" would apply here I guess.

It sounds like you're way ahead of the curve on market trends. The trick is to find that combination of look and tune that adds that extra bit of "whatever factor" that will allow you to command above average buy outs.

I always play the buy out.

Even when I'm dealing with a known big $ car I still list it with a BO. It'll be one that's a little over valued, but it's going to go for decent money anyway, so why not play the odds someone can't wait or won't take the chance of letting your unique and special one off slip away.

I hate just having cars sit for 8 hours and have a few sudden bids at the end only to know the car could have sold 6 hours ago for a BO twice what it went for.

When turning cars for profit, the BO is the one cash register ring to rule them all. You are far less likely to be bitten by the fickle bids of fate, and far more likely to move a car at a decent profit when you control the final pricing.

Sure you can chance you'll turn an extra few bucks. But you'll only do it once or twice before the market for that car goes away. You'll make the same money on two or three buy outs as you will getting the big score and the two runner ups. It's the law of diminishing returns. A solid competitive BO helps maintain some extra market longevity and gives you hard data to look at that's easy to digest and measure vs $$ all over the board.

That and I can't tell you how many times I get a BO on the 2nd or 3rd bid.

Some people can't hang around till auction's end. If they like the car, they'll grab it on BO to make sure they get it if the BO is a reasonable number. If it's not a good $$ figure, they'll pass on the car, and it's more likely to sell for less on a few bids.

I actually want my cars to get BO on the first 3 bids. I want them to move. Seeing 29 bids is nice, but when you deal in cars with below average demand, you want it gone, and gone quick.

I've had 2 (..that's TWO..) cars exceed expectations when no BO was used. That was back when prize cars weren't so plentiful like today. Now, even new DLC cars only hold up for a short time at inflated prices without something to hold them up.

If you're a recognized master painter or tuner, that's one thing. But for an average Joe, you have to be realistic about what you can get away with. You can't count on demand to drive the price up, and the market gets more saturated each day. You have to be aware of what's in play and develop some sort of "affinity" for cars that you know you can move, and then you have to find a way to re-invent the wheel to keep them moving.

Or else you can list 102 Dodge Chargers with the same paint for 1/2 a mil and pray someone buys one today. They do sell at some point, there's a sucker born every minute. But there's nothing fun or challenging in that for me...

I can see you doing quite well in the AH game. If you want any feedback on a specific idea, feel free to PM on here and ask. I don't have all the answers, but I can usually make a decent educated guess if I have to. That and I won't steal the idea. I even have a reference now for that if required... :lol:

Best of luck in future endeavors.

And don't buy up all the good stuff. Leave me a few crumbs, will ya..?

..
 
No problem... I consider myself to be just starting out despite all the schemes I had in Forza 2 and Forza 3. In FM4 I actually have to work to make money in the AH.
 
I actually went back looked at all the stuff Doc said and tried to put it to good use so last night I put up a 2005 BMW M3 and maybe it brought me some good money
 
I actually went back looked at all the stuff Doc said and tried to put it to good use so last night I put up a 2005 BMW M3 and maybe it brought me some good money

It may take a bit to get a feel for it, but it all works. Just depends on how you use it and how much you want to put into it.

After a while, it'll be 2nd nature and you'll just have a developed instinct to see a bargain or feel a good sell point or time.

Don't be afraid to play around with it either. You won't go blind, and you might stumble into a niche that works really well for you.

The only way to know is to try.

Hope the "maybe" turns into a "did" for you... :)

..
 
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