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Discussion in 'Gran Turismo Sport' started by dejkoo, Jan 23, 2020.
Which settings everyone use in Gt sport. Wheel and in game?
The information you are seeking is found in the SIM-Racing-Hardware Forum
SEN AUTO (or 60... chose the one youfill better with..)
DRI OFF (may depend on car and track)
Thank you thats make alot difference.
Finally someone that runs the same settings as me. After about a year of trying different things the above is where I seem to have ended up. Those settings (BRF) are with a V3 loadcell pedals.
You may raise FEI a bit more... and sometimes a bit of DPR (instead of 0) may help... mainly in Nxxx class cars! (low down-force)
Are you still running in game torque and sensitivity relatively high? Found your posts and settings to be really helpful finding my preferences for GTS since getting my CSL a year ago. Thanks!
Game torque on the lowest.. allways!
I've been running 9 torque and 10 sensitivity for the longest time now. Wouldn't low torque essentially remove most feedback sensations you get through the wheel and make it very smooth or like ffb has been turned off? I like some resistance in the wheel to feel the road and grip but not so much that it's too hard to react quickly. I may try some lower settings for torque but extremely low might not be for me.
The idea is very simple... you own and command the wh1eel... and not the other way!
The wheel has to be felt as perfectly tamed.. and not like a wilb beast that you have to fight against... fearing it will twist your wrists...
After some experimenting I've got in game torque at 3, FOR 50, DRI -1, FEI 20. The rest is the same as above. For me this seems like the best compromise between lightness and feedback and I'm going to run it for now, couldn't handle any less resistance to the wheel personally. It feels more consistent in cornering forces where before the feedback ramped up too much as the car would grip up mid corner and on throttle, making oversteer very difficult to catch.
If anybody had a clue what the SPR setting really does, I would greatly appreciate it.
I only feel a slight increase in overall force when I switch from SPR 0 to 100.
The manual says that it depends on what the game sends. Must be some additional
The other effect is that the wheel return to 0 position while not driving, but that does not matter.
I have now gone for in game Torque 10 Senitivity 10 and
FF~40 - sometimes adjusting slightly for different cars.
DRI off - this only introduces some damping/resistance which I don't like.
The rest does not apply/matter.
And - for FF cars that are hard to get around corners, I reduce the Sen setting to get more lock than I actually apply.
FF on 100 always... the rest... more or less ok... consider DRI - 2 and SEns between 660 and 720, Shock ( dont know if its important but) leave it on 100...
Here are mine.
DRI OFF (always off)
I completely disagree with the sentiments regarding having a light wheel which “you control”. The wheel should be alive and giving you feedback. Muting the forces dulls this information and hurts consistency. You want weight in the wheel.
I don’t know how some of you enjoy driving with SPR/DPR at zero and low For. The wheel is lifeless.
Is a heavier wheel more of a workout? Hell yes. But work on it and you’ll find greater consistency and your strength will increase. I can run 3-4hrs on those settings with consistent lap times. It gives you so much more info on the grip.
It’s like having a load cell vs potentiometer. Yes the load cell is more of a physical workout. But the advantage of that is far more consistent and better braking.
it’s also important to know what update people are on as the wheel behaves very differently with the latest update.
Hi may know which driver are you using is it beta driver
Finally went to the source... The Fanatec Forum has lots of posts, here is the only one that sounded competent.
I'm not sure if I agree 100% with the SPR no effect.
Could be easily tested if someone was not as lazy as the rest. All not easy...
DRI on minus is also not damping, rather the opposite.
BRF definitely has NO effect without the load cell. Sheesh, not so competent after all.
The rest is OK
This subject deserves proper, definitive input from Fanatec and Polyphony Digital,
seeing as only a subset of the Fanatec API appears to be used in GT Sport.
I think there is a lot of confusion from users so here is my attempt to clear things up.
CSL Elite Wheel Base + / CSL Elite Racing Wheel PS4™
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT // Adjusts steering limits for each car, automatically
FF 100 // I believe this controls torque gain AND clipping limit, so should be left at maximum.
SHO ... // No effect
ABS ... // No effect
DRI -02 // Adds some damping to the steering
FOR 50 // General FF gain. User preference.
SPR ... // No effect
DPR ... // No effect
BRF ... // Sets full-scale brake pedal load (or displacement. User preference
FEI 60 // For me, this value is enough for adequate vibrational cueing but not enough to induce loud knocking noises.
Force Feedback Max Torque: 5 // I've yet to try a trade-off between this and FOR on the wheel. For now, this works.
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10 // I believe this is somewhat analogous to steering column torsional stiffness. The higher, the better, subject to achieving adequate wheel stability (achievable with assistance of negative DRI).
Google is your friend.
Setup similar to the above gentleman who also doesn’t understand why you would seek a lifeless wheel.
If a person cares at all they can pull up the manual.
Commng straight from the source (Fanatec) :
SPR ... // No effect
DPR ... // No effect
I'm on 476, are you aware if there would be much different between the 2 drivers??
Negative DRI definitely provides a damping effect. Try it on positive to feel the active drift assist, that's the opposite of damping.
Unless this differs between firmwares and you're on a different firmware. With my firmware there's no doubt it works as Fanatec describe, with positive being drift assist, and negative the opposite, i.e. damping.
Why on earth would you run these settings in GTS man your for setting at 40 effectively takes away 60 percent of the ffb in gts.
The wheel on those settings is like and arcade game wheel without ffb.
Just get a t80 it’s cheaper why pay for ffb if you won’t use it?
If you have a physical problem preventing you from using ffb then ok turn it off.
For 100 like the manual says and adjust the game.
You wanna feel everything the game produces, at last I do.
For at 40 does not do that.
That depends... try it... and dont forget that Fanatec advises 50... this is just 80% of such value... dont forget that everything else that produces FFB and Force is at 100%... do you know what is FFB clipping?? To much force and maximum FFB wil always produce clipping and clipping is the loss of FFB information above a certain intensity of the FFB effects... so it will not be to set everything at maximum that will give you maximum information...
No they do not. Read the manual online.
Further, if you turn those settings like you suggest as I did yesterday to test you effectively are turning OFF the ffb in GTS.
@Deadpool above agreed with this as well.
It’s not from the spr setting it’s the FOR.
The Fanatec csl elite online manual (google is your friend) explicitly advises leaving the wheel at 100 and turning its weight to taste via in game adjustments.
Your reccomendations is opposite Fanatec.
Further, I first used t300 which had no in built within wheel filtering adjustments for ffb coming from GTS.
I used that a long time so I know what GTS produces.
I am a top 1 percent on NA server with A plus rating.
Your settings reduce GTS to not having much ffb at all.
That’s as of my testing yesterday.
Do you have physical health issues preventing you from using ffb wheels?
If so I can understand turning it off.
Maybe some folks like just very slight ffb.
I am not telling anyone how to play, just reporting that using those settings effectively turns ffb off in GTS.
There's so much personal preference involved in your selection of settings, I've tried both ends of the spectrum and have to say I prefer somewhere in the middle. A balance of being able to control the wheel because it's not overpowering you and also still having enough ffb intensity to let you know what the car is doing. Unless you have a motion rig the only sensation of what the car is doing is coming through the wheel and what you see on the screen. Having never driven a real race car I can't say what the steering would really feel like as far as weight/friction/dampening, if I had to take a guess I would bet the forces generated could be substantial during high speed cornering, that being said I don't find the way the csl ramps up the force in certain corners or during slides to be realistic forces, catching slides with high force is a real task when the wheelbase is practically pulling the wheel from your hands and where you have it positioned. I would think the power steering would give you control of the wheel easily in normal circumstances and limit the force that could be exerted back into the steering wheel from high speed corners or oversteer. Then again look at albons crash at China during qualifying, the way he's fighting the wheel and it comes out of his hands leads me to believe as slick as the power steering is on modern race cars in certain situations they can put more force back through to the wheel then would be normally expected.
That being said I'm running these settings as of lately.
Motor driver 22
Dri -1 or 0 (car dependent)
For 60-70 (car dependent)
Fei 20 (preference for equipment longevity)
In game torque 3
In game sensitivity 10
I’m not really sure there’s any reason to turn spr and dpr off either.
IF a game applies those forces in those ways then you won’t feel it since it’s off.
My personal reccomendations if one prefers a light wheel is reduce the settings in GTS, don’t set a limit on the wheel.
Let the wheel be able to provide as much as it can, just reduce weight in game to taste.
GTS isn’t AC, and the subtleties you need are not discernible imo if you limit the wheels output.
On AC I reduce in game ffb strengyh quite a lot because the wheel on gt cars can be very very heavy.
AC is very immersive. So is DR2. But it’s the same in those games imo you don’t wanna clip the wheels output capability, just set strength to taste in game.
That’s also as I said explicitly recommended by Fanatec in the manual.
For me the wheel is fantastic. All 3 of these games are so so immersive and I commend the devs.
I’m finding now for pure driving immersion rally is my favorite.
GTS is great because of competition via others.
I turn off spring because it stops my wheel from oscillating during pause or in menus if I bump it by accident, can't really notice any discernible difference while driving with it on or off. I thought I read somewhere a while ago that damper has no effect in GTS, could be wrong though
One thing I will say also which is jmo...
GTS ffb seems much better in sport mode vs arcade. Maybe it’s just my imagination but I never drive arcade just sport, and yesterday testing settings in custom race I definitely found the experience lacking a little fidelity.
Sport mode seems better, but that’s jmo, maybe I’m just more attuned in a real race or qual session...Not sure if others notice...
Also FIA to me seems the best driving experience but again, maybe just because I’m more intense I get a better feel, not sure if there’s an objective difference...
You are 100% incorrect on this, and that’s not what Fanatec says.
It’s easy to test. Turn SPR/DPR off and the wheel instantly changes to this lifeless garbage. That’s not up for debate, that’s fact.
I will say that minor tweaks to SPR/DPR say 80/90% etc have virtually no effect. But turning them off or running very low def has a effect.
Prior to the most recent update, Fanatec recommends running Spr/DPR at 100. Their settings are a good baseline, but lack a bit for a demanding driver. They “suggest” -3 for Drift and in game sensitivity of 1. Both of which make the wheel less responsive, which is good for beginners but bad for experienced drivers......and honestly you should learn the right way not the diluted way IMO.
Another point to add. Most race cars these days vary from 6-10Nm of torque through the wheel. The CSL is right on the low end of that scale, why would I want to neuter it? There’s a reason they don’t lower the strength of the wheel too much in real life, you want that information.
-3 dri is definitely a less direct control feeling I prefer dri off.
One reason I went t300 for first ffb wheel was I wanted gts as devs intended. That and cost obviously.
I read a lot of folks decrying that wheel for gts because reliability concerns. I just had the random button press once in a while my in game was 3-4 and 10. Glad I went with a wheel/game combo first time that wasn’t very adjustable so never worried bout am I feeling the game right...
I see that Fanatec dd wheel and I wonder, how much better is dd, is it worth it?
Also you get concerned with power consumption...
Anyone here driven both in a game they know well?