Best settings for FANATEC CSL

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-3 dri is definitely a less direct control feeling I prefer dri off.
One reason I went t300 for first ffb wheel was I wanted gts as devs intended. That and cost obviously.
I read a lot of folks decrying that wheel for gts because reliability concerns. I just had the random button press once in a while my in game was 3-4 and 10. Glad I went with a wheel/game combo first time that wasn’t very adjustable so never worried bout am I feeling the game right...
I see that Fanatec dd wheel and I wonder, how much better is dd, is it worth it?
Also you get concerned with power consumption...
Anyone here driven both in a game they know well?

Agreed, neg drift slows the response and positive increases. Both remove the 1:1 ratio of input to action. Similar to say adding latency which is bad.

I’m hoping to upgrade to DD soon. The big thing I’m expecting, is not the increased force, but how much clearer the forces feel and how direct my inputs are translated.

With my prior wheels Logitech, Fanatec GT3, now CSL, I can feel a vagueness in steering response. That initial turn in and tiny adjustments just lack the precision of what the DD will offer.

It’s similar to having a wheel mounted on a coffee table or loose rig where there’s excess movement. That extra slop is like white noise making it harder to determine what’s actually going on.

That’s why I’ve added supports to my playseat to try and remove as much as I can. It’s not perfect though, but minimizing the slop gave me a much clearer idea of what the wheel is doing.

Going to a DD would basically be pointless on my current rig though, because that small bit of slop remaining, is competing with the wheel and limiting its strengths. Like running a load cell with a playseat, the pedal tray moves so much it defeats the purpose (I built a box around mine) First I’m ordering a Simlab P1-X, then DD, can’t benefit from the DD until I have a rock solid setup.
 
I have no prior experience with any wheels, the csl was my first wheel and paired with an obutto cockpit is quite rigid. In hindsight I may have chosen a different rig but for the price in that category this was by far the sturdiest I could get.

Just tried your settings deadpool and they feel good but don't suit all my preferences. The firmness and precision is nice but the way the forces seem to ramp up in certain situations just doesn't suit me. It's like they're trying to simulate g forces through the wheel but that's not where or how you feel g force in real life imo. I believe the power steering would keep those rotational forces more in check so you can adjust with precision quickly, again that's my preference and opinion. I will say after running yours for about 10 laps on spa and going back to mine I had to leave FOR at 80 because I do like the firmness I get with it but suits me more with in game torque at 3 rather than 5.

Also tried turning spring and damper on and off and am really hard pressed to pick up the differences, they are incredibly small differences compared to adjusting the other parameters that seem to have noticable impacts. I'm leaving spring off for sure simply so my wheel doesn't punch me in the face if I'm not careful getting in and out of my seat.

This is a bit a stretch for comparison but the only thing I've really driven in anger in real life is a snowmobile or go cart and with both I could overpower the grip with my steering inputs and these are machines with no power steering. By that comparison I find some of the forces exerted by the wheelbase during cornering and sliding to be a bit excessive on the higher settings but that's just me.
 
I know from my limited karting experience a vintage kart is fairly taxing, but you run a harder compound depending on kart to prevent bicycling.
A more modern like indoor electric on the grippy tires flat out beats you up.
Holy crap.
I fashioned my setup rigidity is very important.
Those square tube alum ones made for dd look sweet indeed...
Imo I like the building forces as the car loads up.
It’s fantastic on the Red Bull jr at Autopolis
I wish everyone who likes the game could get a chance on a good wheel setup like say what they use on world tours even :).
 
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I have no prior experience with any wheels, the csl was my first wheel and paired with an obutto cockpit is quite rigid. In hindsight I may have chosen a different rig but for the price in that category this was by far the sturdiest I could get.

Just tried your settings deadpool and they feel good but don't suit all my preferences. The firmness and precision is nice but the way the forces seem to ramp up in certain situations just doesn't suit me. It's like they're trying to simulate g forces through the wheel but that's not where or how you feel g force in real life imo. I believe the power steering would keep those rotational forces more in check so you can adjust with precision quickly, again that's my preference and opinion. I will say after running yours for about 10 laps on spa and going back to mine I had to leave FOR at 80 because I do like the firmness I get with it but suits me more with in game torque at 3 rather than 5.

Also tried turning spring and damper on and off and am really hard pressed to pick up the differences, they are incredibly small differences compared to adjusting the other parameters that seem to have noticable impacts. I'm leaving spring off for sure simply so my wheel doesn't punch me in the face if I'm not careful getting in and out of my seat.

This is a bit a stretch for comparison but the only thing I've really driven in anger in real life is a snowmobile or go cart and with both I could overpower the grip with my steering inputs and these are machines with no power steering. By that comparison I find some of the forces exerted by the wheelbase during cornering and sliding to be a bit excessive on the higher settings but that's just me.

For rigs we all start wherever our budget allows, then if we get hooked and actually devote time in.....then start looking at long term options.

So a playseat or obutto are great to test the waters. But now, it’s 80/20 or nothing IMO. 80/20 gives you the best long term ability to improve your setup over time vs fixed design/limited “pretty” rigs.

For right now I plan to start with the Simlab P1-X. For a number of reasons.

1) Prolly the most rigid setup you can get. There is ZERO flex in it. This is very important for load cell pedals and DD wheels.

2)Upgradability. Let’s say in 5yrs motion becomes $2k for what currently costs $8k. Now a G3 setup is feasible for those of us chasing immersion. Easy to bolt on any motion setup with 80/20. Want to add 8 butt kickers? Easy. How about a handbrake, easy. Shifter, bolts right on and zero flex.

3) Cost per rigidity is without contest.

4) Run any seat you want. You can even adjust the rig to go from a GT cockpit to more of a F1 seating position (swap seat too)

5)Longterm reliability. Let’s face it, after awhile the playseat and others get “loose”. My pedal box/steering shift about .5” during a race because the lock below slips from the force. Not a issue with 80/20.

6) Want to go triple or quad monitor? $100 for the mounts that attach directly to the rig. Doesn’t get simpler.

7) easier storage. If you’re like me and can’t keep a rig setup, use a few quick disconnects to break the rig down into 2 sections plus seat and tuck into a closet.

9) Adjustability. I’ve yet to see anything that comes even remotely close to the adjustability of a 80/20 in terms of wheel/seat/pedal adjustment.

10) Resale. They hold value incredibly well and are very very easy to ship to the next owner. So it’s low risk, and they don’t cost much more than a playseat.

This should be the first move for someone who is hooked on sim racing and actually plays regularly. This is the foundation of your setup and one of the most important.

Got onto a tangent there.....good strain I just had ;)


With settings once you’re in the “ballpark” of what’s right, it’s a lot of user preference on what they want to feel. This plays into driving style or skill level as well. I like coming into a corner with slight slip angle and just steering with throttle. In race, and with tire wear, this requires a lot of on limit feel, so I go higher on some forces to get the most of what I need. But like you mentioned, there are a few forces that are too high, it’s a trade off and for you it’s not worth it.

For me running lower I lose the feeling on initial turn in. Keys for me were finding a setup that gave me good weight on turn in, but detailed on limit and with a realistic oversteer feel.

That’s one reason I am completely against Drift settings, I find the oversteer correction on the limit is destroyed. IMO it’s really meant for actual drifting with largely showy inputs. But when racing wheel to wheel on the limit you lose the immediate response that Off gives. When I’m battling close, I need my inputs to keep up with what I’m doing. Any lag in the steering messes it up.
 
I was lucky enough to sit in the obutto ozone which I was considering initially but ended up buying the one up from it after seeing both side by side. The one I have is the revolution or evolution and is much more rigid than the ozone as well as can be expanded to triples down the road and a better seat if wanted. Not the cream of the crop but it will last as long as I'm interested in this hobby, the 80/20 sure look nice though and the customization and adaptability is huge.

I would say finding the best FFB settings for any sim takes time, you have to be willing to experiment, I'll be the first to admit I was uncertain of changing any settings when I first got my CSL but after reading on here and other sites I just started experimenting and trying others settings and tweaking them to my liking. There's really no right or wrong settings as long as your having fun and not killing your wheelbase in the process. With higher settings you can definitely turn drift off as the weight and feel of the wheel is much more prominent. I agree that the turn in feel or lack there of for GTS is worse on lower settings and that is my biggest gripe with running lower FFB. I love the higher settings until I push it too hard and then I feel like there's just no saving it half the time, I find the lower settings may be more forgiving especially during a race in close proximity with others. That was a problem I found with high FFB was that minor contact from others could result in really unpredictable reactions from the wheelbase sometimes.
 
I built this exactly because I did not want any flex in my rig. It is DD ready when I have more time to race and feel it's worth spending the $$ required to buy DD. I'm having a tough time trusting Fanatec right now also, I had to send my CSL in for warranty summer of 2018, they fixed the problem I sent it in for but in came back with other issues. The wheel upshifts, downshifts, and stacks shifts when it wants to, it can be very aggravating and I sent the wheel back a second time for this and they told me they could find nothing wrong. It seems at this point I have a lemon and maybe they should have replaced it for a small fee.
 
That stinks, mines been good. My rigs simple, but effective.
Thought about goin metal but for now this works well.
D1722A29-74D5-4815-A28B-203866F0DE9A.png

Little cheap black fabric is covering the wheel mount, but it’s bolted. Fabric works great to stop immersion destroying reflection in the dark. 4 pieces wood, 6 threaded pipes. 12 pipe foot flanges. Wood was extra from a job gifted. Bought the pipes and paint. Had wood screws...2 pieces, tv stand w/shelf and the rigs a separate piece.
Been playing dr2 quite a bit.
 
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Why on earth would you run these settings in GTS man your for setting at 40 effectively takes away 60 percent of the ffb in gts.
The wheel on those settings is like and arcade game wheel without ffb.
Just get a t80 it’s cheaper why pay for ffb if you won’t use it?
If you have a physical problem preventing you from using ffb then ok turn it off.
For 100 like the manual says and adjust the game.
You wanna feel everything the game produces, at last I do.
For at 40 does not do that.

I have no physical problem .. at least not at the momment and for a long time ago... but when I read you I get the STRONG idea that you may most probably have some mental problems.. to say the least...
 
Negative DRI definitely provides a damping effect. Try it on positive to feel the active drift assist, that's the opposite of damping.
This is correct. Got confused there. Too much negativity ;-)

The confusion they introduced with 3 different force settings is also funny.
The overall strength depends on three factors: 'In game' * 'For' * FF
No idea why they have separate 'For' and 'FF'

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About RIGS: I guess, I can beat anyone in terms of simplicity. No need to shelf out $300+ for an entry level rig to "test the waters"!
- The "main thing" is just an IKEA kitchen cupboard I picked up for €25.
- The Chair is living room compatible. €149 at the furniture shop.
The white board on the right keeps it from turning, also fixes distance.
You could, of course, use any other low armchair.
- The cushion is important for the left leg to be straight in line with the brake pedal. Also keeps knee away from edge.
- I am currently experimenting with grip tape making the rim thicker and grippier to avoid cramps.
- I use the wired headphones, because my €300 SONY bluetooth noise-cancelling headphones from 2018
are neither compatible with the 2017 SONY Bravia nor the SONY Playstation! Great Job, SONY!
- I wish I had gone for 49"-55" instead of 43", moved screen as close as possible, but FOV is still not quite correct.
The wheel on the screen matches nicely with the real wheel, however.

20200521_232006.jpg
 
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I'm still trying to read "The Ultimate Speed Bible". But - just to prove you wrong - I will read it now. AGAIN.

OK, let's say, it tries to explain. But without a formula or diagram it's still unclear.
Is there (for example) any difference between
1. FF=40 with FOR =100
and
2. FF=100 with FOR =40.

FF seems like the overall factor, OK. confirmed that by testing.
 
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I'm still trying to read "The Ultimate Speed Bible". But - just to prove you wrong - I will read it now. AGAIN.

OK, let's say, it tries to explain. But without a formula or diagram it's still unclear.
Is there (for example) any difference between
1. FF=40 with FOR =100
and
2. FF=100 with FOR =40.

FF seems like the overall factor, OK. confirmed that by testing.

Are you reading the manual in your native tongue?
English is mine and it makes it quite clear one setting modifies the games signal but one does not.
I’m no ffb wheel engineer but the manual is clear.
 
The funny part is that it's German engineering, but they have no German manual. Lost in translation.

Please don't underestimate me like this. :( I can read more advanced texts than this - and/or probably you ;)
Btw., I thought you were Brazilian the whole time. Must be the colors of the pic.

Anyway, thanks for pointing me to the manual again, found a setting that feels even better.
I also like DRI=5 now. @breeminator As always hard to exactly pinpoint the difference.
At least in pause the wheel has less resistance for fast rotations.
 
It’s not an advanced text. It’s simple. If you are confused I’d be happy to help :)
For can adjust the for signal from the game.
FF just relates to rated motor power.
Spr and dpr are also from game.
For dpr spr adjustments let you mess with the games signals.
 
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The thing of it is, the freedom provided by the wheels adjustments is fantastic, but also adjusting things can be a double edged sword for people.
You can end up with a case like that mirror person essentially recommending people completely disable the wheel.
Jmo but to me wrong is wrong.
Even if you have physical shortcomings and can’t take advantage of a bit more weight, you can at least feel life in the wheel if you just turn the game output down a little.
Turning the forces off in the wheel itself imo will never provide anything close to the richness of experiences game designers and wheel manufacturers made possible. Ffb ultimately is personal preference, but no one good I know purchased a new or used wheel only to turn it to lifeless garbage in game..
Jmo ymmv
 
I'm still trying to read "The Ultimate Speed Bible". But - just to prove you wrong - I will read it now. AGAIN.

OK, let's say, it tries to explain. But without a formula or diagram it's still unclear.
Is there (for example) any difference between
1. FF=40 with FOR =100
and
2. FF=100 with FOR =40.

FF seems like the overall factor, OK. confirmed that by testing.

Where may we find that reading? ("The Ultimate Speed Bible")??
 
@Groundfish : You are right about that the settings can go wrong. But again that's because there are duplicates, and parameters that do nothing.
Anyway, for the ones still looking for a setting, I now settled on:

SEN = AUT Sometimes adjusting for FF cars to get them round. Audi TT Gr4: default 540 => 44, RCZ: 900 => 800, etc.
FF = 100 No need to mess with this one as the manual says. Only if the other
SHO = N/E no effect
ABS = N/E
DRI = 5 Enhances ability to quickly counter-steer. Still unsure about side effects. Negative is ruled out for sure. Off could somehow be more pure.
FOR = 50 In combination with in game Torque = 10 / Sensitivity = 10. Could also use FOR=100 and in game Torque = 5.
SPR = 50 Brings back the wheel when in pause menu, little to no effect on driving
DPR = N/E
FEI = 50 Keep rumble effects at a sensible level.

If a particular car has too much force, I have three options. 1. Reduce in game Torque from 10 to 9. 2. Reduce FF to 95. 3. Reduce FOR to 40. Unfortunately, the in game setting is a global one, not per car.

Where may we find that reading? ("The Ultimate Speed Bible")??
"Ultimate Speed Secrets" by Ross Bentley. It was more of an inside joke, I'm not sure yet if the book can live up to it's name.

Anyone have issues with firmware
No, why? Is there a new firmware out?
 
FEI 60-70* are you still using these?
I'd quess that your unit doesn't generate this continuous noise on FEI 60?
*Increase volume level to max. if you are watching on phone:

Does anyone else's base snap/pop like this?

Thanks.

Yes I still using those settings.
At low speed on curve I think it's the same for me...

My advice for CSL Elite users : your wheel will not explode because it makes small noises, I'm using it for 2 years like this and there's nothing wrong about it ;)
 
In game 4-10
Sen aut
Ff100
FEI 40
DRI OFF
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BRF 50
SHO 100
ABS 100

This is good on my fw. Sometimes 5-10 in game, just depends...
For ‘easier’ you could go 5-1 in game dri -01 or like 4-4 in game same as above, but you’ll not be getting the full Monty, so to speak.
SPR DPR off FEI 60 feels cruddy on my firmware, it’s not right for me. Like the wheels getting hit with spikes, and missing info, on my gr3 vette it’s NOT right. Turn FOR off, leave spr dpr on 100 and you will see that under certain conditions there will be force felt at the wheel. It’s not much but those components are important to leave active for the wheel to properly represent the game the way I personally prefer.
Sometimes if more serious I go 5-10 but 4-10 for me is comfy and mellow.
 
When you guys discuss brake settings you must tell us which brake pedal set you are using. I had someone repeatedly tell my I was was wrong because my V3 loadcell pedal was 100 for max stopping force or minimum pedal effort required and I guess the potentiometer pedal works the opposite way.
 
When you guys discuss brake settings you must tell us which brake pedal set you are using. I had someone repeatedly tell my I was was wrong because my V3 loadcell pedal was 100 for max stopping force or minimum pedal effort required and I guess the potentiometer pedal works the opposite way.
If you use the potentiometer pedal, the BRF setting doesn't even show up when you go through the settings on the wheel, it only applies to the load cell pedal. With the potentiometer pedal, the max is set to the hardest you've pressed on the pedal since powering up, you have to set it each time you run everything up by pressing hard on the pedal.
 
If you use the potentiometer pedal, the BRF setting doesn't even show up when you go through the settings on the wheel, it only applies to the load cell pedal. With the potentiometer pedal, the max is set to the hardest you've pressed on the pedal since powering up, you have to set it each time you run everything up by pressing hard on the pedal.

That's odd. Quite awhile back I had someone telling me I was wrong about my BRF settings, that it was exactly opposite of what I said. After a week or so he discovered I had the loadcell pedal and he did not. I wonder what adjustment he was referring to??
 
That's odd. Quite awhile back I had someone telling me I was wrong about my BRF settings, that it was exactly opposite of what I said. After a week or so he discovered I had the loadcell pedal and he did not. I wonder what adjustment he was referring to??
Maybe it's a firmware difference, but when I used the load cell in the past, I had a BRF setting, and I'm using the potentiometer pedal now, and there's no BRF setting.
 
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