BMW 325 - AdvanR Read

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Alright, I did some searching. I dont know which of these are any good. I will post pics with their ad. I cant link to the pictures so I have to do them individually.

I'll post them in a minute...
 
I dont know if these are all e30's. I cant decide which one to pick so I appreciate the help :). If anyone has any opinions please post them ;)...

1987 BMW 325, 2dr, 5spd, new battery, timing belt, water pump, tune-up, oil changer, $2200 OBO
 

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wow this is flattering. if you know pretty well you want an e30 i can help you find a really good one.

the m3 motor (s14) are quite different than the 325 motor (m20), so ill ask a good friend and 325 owner what things are to look out for. Im also actually not familiar with the suffixes, ie "is" "es" "i".

I will ask on the e30 boards I post on if they know a good e30 mechanic close to your zipcode. I really suggest having a full prepurchase inspection done. a good one will cost 70-150 bucks, but is invaluable for the piece of mind and saved trouble in the future.

Also, check for ads on roadfly.org. I will find some other good sites too. Roadfly has much better cars usually, sometimes more, but you can get a really well taken care of car maybe with some mods. I have issues of roundel (bmwcca official monthly) that have ads in the back. I will check for cars in your state.

How much do you want to spend? 2k is probably a little low for a 325. dont expect a really good car for that price. I think 3-6k will get you a good one.

They are awesome cars though. Dont think of them as being much lesser than the m3. With the 2.5 6 cylinder they can kick the crap out of the m3 for much cheaper. You can run high 14s with not much money. The m3 is just heaven at the track though. I noticed coming out of every corner with the 4-cylinder screaming that the revs were directly at peak torque. Timewise the 325s are really competitive though. I was just up at BIR, a guy with a 325 was running 2:08s, same as me. He was more experienced, had suspension and r-compound tires, but still. For comparison an instructor was running 2:06s with my car before. For another comparison, the same instructor was running 2:05s in his ITR (he had much more laps with his own car, also being easy on my car, so the m3 would probably be about a couple seconds ahead if conditions were same)
 
Originally posted by advanR
They are awesome cars though. Dont think of them as being much lesser than the m3. With the 2.5 6 cylinder they can kick the crap out of the m3 for much cheaper.
how do standard e30's compare to the m3 though in terms of handling? i also heard that the m3 isn't the fastest of the range in terms of speed but since i live in the UK i'd want to buy a right hand drive car and as far as i know, all e30's were lhd. e30 and e28 looked sweet though. tbh i preferred the e28 but thats just me :D

anyway since i don't live in the US im not _quite_ sure what buying a car is like there but i can give u a few hints from what u should do here. firstly an old car such as an e30 is asking for trouble if you don't have a service history with it. it would be great to have one with a full bmw service history (detailing all the things that have been replaced on the car or gone wrong with it) failing that a regular dealer sh is good to have (receipts etc). if it doesn't have one, the only thing to do is look at the pictures, pick a colour you like and go and view the car. inspect it from every angle you can. definitely take someone with you (preferably someone who knows about cars, but failing that someone who will make you think twice about ur purchase if necessary). find a buyers guide online or something, advan might be able to help out here. don't buy the first car you see, and DO hire one of those mechanics to inspect your car before you buy. if there is a serious fault, you may have payed him $100 but he saved you thousands on problems you would have had with the car. other than that, goodluck and post some pictures when you finally buy the car! :D
 
Originally posted by Nightmage82
how do standard e30's compare to the m3 though in terms of handling? i also heard that the m3 isn't the fastest of the range in terms of speed but since i live in the UK i'd want to buy a right hand drive car and as far as i know, all e30's were lhd. e30 and e28 looked sweet though. tbh i preferred the e28 but thats just me :D


I havent driven a 325 but i think I can tell you a bit. I predict they are very similar.

Stock suspension is a little softer, though that doesnt speak for the ultimate potential of the car. The track on the m3 is wider. The m3 has a bit better steering feedback i hear, this is your feel for what the front wheels are doing. M3s got better brakes. The m3 is less squirrely in the rear than the 325s, the back end of those wants to come out sometimes.

If you get any e30, it will f-ing handle. The friend in town here with an e30 m3 also has an e30 318. (btw, with only a chip I was questioning if this was quicker than my stock m3 even) With some springs and shocks, nothing serious, and some okay tires, it was pushing 60 in onramps. I suggest you keep your eyes open for 318s even too. They would of course be cheaper.

Another bit of info. The e30s have rear trailing arm suspension. I was talking to a guy with an M coupe and he was saying his car shares the same setup. He was explaining how it worked to me and it all made sense. When the cars body gets lower or higher, the amount of camber changes for the rear wheels. This happens under load transfer also. So if you trailbrake into a corner, it will rotate the car as the rear wheels lose some grip. Then as you throttle out of the apex the rear end gets the grip it needs to take the power. With the bfgoodrich g-force KDs I had on my car, I did not have any oversteer at all unless I wanted it, so dont think it is too pronounced. I did feel quite a better turn in with trailbraking though, this is a good thing. As I said before I have heard the regular e30s like to slide a bit more. Im not sure why, but would like to figure out the reason. I will research it and get back.
 
thanks for that. basically im looking to get a car when my current FF estate says its final goodnight. i think it may have between 6 and 12 months left in it max... then again it has surprised us in the past, but by next summer i'd like to be driving a different car. my requirements are simple, something reliable, something with a manual gearbox and preferably something with rear wheel drive. oh yeah and it has to have leather seats :D (cause i like leather seats heh). living in the uk it doesn't leave many manufacturers, basically only mercs, beemers and jags have FR for their entire range. but most cars rule themselves out on insurance, the e36 m3 (my original choice) would cost me almost £4k every year. the e34 m5 would be £3k but 3k is still a lot for me. personally i prefer the e28's looks to the e30 but the latter still looks good and i'd be entirely happy to own one. i checked out the insurance and its manageable for me. 318 sure that would be even better, though perhaps not as fast. being as old as it is there are naturally fewer available on the market and round here about 40% of them seem to be convertibles, i'd love a conv but not so if it doesn't have a power hood or the extra weight causes problems, do you know any details about convertible e30s?

as for handling, im really not that picky, i've hardly driven any cars at all, my current FF astra estate handles ok, and seems to have good low range torque, and my parent's opel/vauxhall omega 2.2 handles like a dream (can't imagine a car with better handling tbh :D ) but e30's look cheap at the moment, could be a good time to pick up a bargain, 318, 320 or 325 would be cool for me. an m3 would be too hard on my insurance and i'd rather not buy it. plus its lhd which im not keen on either.

just out of interest, here is what someone posted to a different forum:

I'm probably going to upset a few people by saying this, but before my M5 I had an E30 320i, although it had less than half the power of the M5, in some ways it was more fun to drive. On a roundabout you could put your foot down and the back would slide out very predictably and controlably (is that a word?). With the M5, you put your foot down and cos it has so much grip it just goes faster and faster round the roundabout. To get the back out you have to be much more aggressive and be going much faster, which can get a little dangerous. It's a much more serious car. I'm sure you could get the back out at a lower speed by revving it to 7k and dumping the clutch, but I don't like to abuse my car like that (and the 255 x 17 tyres are a little more expensive than the 195 x 15 E30 tyres...).
I have yet to take the M5 on a track and see how easy it is to control when sliding, but I get the feeling it may be a little less forgiving than the E30...

and someone else said:

The e 30 is still the best handeling BMW ever built, underpowered but extremely nuetral and balanced. I want one in the worst way, set up soley for track use.

oh and btw, if after a couple of years it died or something do you know of anyone who had an engine rebuild? are they likely to fail after a certain amount of miles? do u know how much a full recondition could cost?
 
Wow thanks you guys. I had some luck today. I was walking through the Grociery store today, getting some things to eat (had a case of the munchies). I pulled up to the check out counter and saw Eurotuner Magazine, and decided to buy it (only $4) even though I didnt look through it. It was a good buy :). Turns out they are doing a project car on....guess what?...an e30 lol. I'll post it in a minute. Its from the June 2003 issue if you want to pick it up :D.
 
Building the Perfect Cost-Friendly E30 BMW Sedan

The words "Budget" and "BMW" seldom appear in the same sentence, at least without the words "out of my" fronting the phrase. But eurotuner likes to do things differently (eschewing proper capitalization in its masthead, for instance). This iconoclastic bent is what inspired us, amid the new-age VWs and Audis that crowd these pages, to reaquaint our readers with one of the best buys on the used car market: the E30 BMW 3-Series sedan.

But rather than present a dry discourse on E30 history and performance, eurotuner decided to build its own E30 project car--and do it wit a close eye on the bottom line. Hence, a Budget Bimmer.

E30 History
The first generation 3-series, the 320i (BMW code E21), debuted in 1977 as the successor to the revered 2002 sedan. The 320i was larger and more refined. Unofrtunately, it was also heavier, slower, and less fun to drive. BMW enthusiasts and media critics groaned with disapproval. The buying public, though, enbraced the new model. With independant suspension at all four corners, a five-speed gearbox, and a rear-wheel-drive layout, it was a blast to drive, even with a meek 2.0L, 110hp four-banger under the hood. Sales were strong, particularly with the upwardly mobile urban crowd, thus forever tainting BMW's performance image as a yuppie accountrement.

Nonetheless, after a successful seven year run, the E21 was replaced by the E30 in 1984. The first American E30 was badged as a 318i and powered by the same anemic motor that propelled the E21. But everything else was different: stiffer platform, crisper styling, more luxury appointments, and improved suspension (struts with sickle-shaped lower control arms in front and trailing arms in the rear). Overall, it was a tighter, more refined package; even a four-door was offered. The E30 handled like a BMW and steered likea BMW. Spirited motoring came standard.

Still, the E30 cried for more power, and BMW delivered in short order. In 1984, BMW debuted the 325e, which featured a 2.7L, SOHC straight-six (the M20). The M20 was a low-rev, high torque powerplant that delivered 121hp at 4,250 rpm and a stout 170 lb-ft of torque at 3,250 rpm. It offered superb in-city driveablilty and a frugal fuel consumption. Unfortunately, its low-revving nature left enthusiasts unfullfilled.

BMW finally got it right in 1987 with the introduction of the 325is model, which featured a more sporting M20 powerplant: 2.5L 168hp at 5800 rpm, and 164 lb-ft of torque at 4300 rpm. The Redline? A gin-inducing 6400 rpm. The 325is also boasted a more taut suspension, a limited-slip differential, 6x14.5 basket-weave wheels, larger sway bars, sports seats, a multi-function on-board computer, an da host of other creature comforts. While BMW produced the 325is until 1991, its posistion atop the E30 pecking order was short-lived as the iconic M3 debuted in 1988.

In 1991, BMW added yet another E30--the 318is, with an all-new high-revving 1.8L twin-cam, 16v powerplant (M42) that would become standard in next year's larger E36 Chassis. Its rev-happy nature and lighter weight made for an entertaining drive, and it was popular with autocross racers.

Which E30?
Choosing an E30 for a project car isn't easy, but for enthusiasts, the decision usually comes down to three choices: the '88-'91 325is, or the '91 318is. What about the M3? M3's are indeed awesome, but they're also more expensive to maintain, and less practical as an everyday driver. Race cars are like that. Therfore, our Budget Bimmer would have to start life as either a 318is or 325is.

We went for the 325is, with its great handling chassis and powerful six-cylinder powerplant. Heck, the 325is is worth it for the engine sound aline! With luch, we'd find an '89-or-newer model wit hthe smaller Euro-style bumpers.

A friend who operates one of the finest BMW repair shops in Colorado, Bimmer Haus Performance of Broomfield, tipped us off to a long-time customer car, an '89 325is with 136,000 miles. A little long in the tooth, perhaps, but with all the records, we knew the car's history. It was a solid, well-maintained car, and at $3,600, it was fairly priced. SOLD!

E30 Gameplan
Having found a suitable car, we drew up a budget-oriented list of aftermarket parts. Ideally, we wanted our E30 to perform well at both autocross tracks and road courses (BMW track days are very popular), but still be a comfortable daily driver. To choose the right competition of parts, we drew on the expertise of Bimmer Hause Performance owner Bob Tunnell. Bob is a nine-time SCCA autocross champion (several behind the wheel of an E30) and a two-time participant in the SCCA Runoffs. He suffers from a chonic case of roundel fever. more importantly, he knows what works and what doesnt.

After evaluating the price verses value of various parts and listening t oBimmer Haus' suggestions, we came up with a three-part plan. Phase One: Springs, shocks, sway bars, front and rear shock mounts, wheels, and tires. Phase two: brake up-grades, radiator, stainless steel brake lines, and short kit and knob. Phase Three: engine performance chip, air filter, halogen bulbs, wipers, and interior detailing. We would use only the highest quality components, shoosing carefully to stay within budget. Moreover, we would perform on-track and chassis dyno testing to quantify performance gains before and after our modifications.

Before we changed anything, though, we took our bone-stock 325is to Second Creek Raceway outside of Denver, an 11-turn, 1.7 mile roadcourse, tha has very tight, mostly-third and second gear corners. With Tunnell behind the wheel, the stock 325is lapped in the low 1:25s--surprisingly quick for a bone stock car, he said. Sure it leaned a bit, and the 195/65-14 Dunlop radials screamed for mercy, but lap times were impressive. It would be interesting to see lap time improvements at the end of the buildup.

The E30 Buildup
Phase one of our buildup focused on suspension upgrades: H&R Sport springs, Koni Adjustable Shocks, and Racing Dynamic sway bars, plus new shock mounts at both front and rear. H&R offers three levels of springs for E30's: OE Sport springs, Sports springs, and Race Springs. The Sport springs offer the best comprimise of performance and ride comfort, according to Bimmer Haus, particularly when combined with adjustable Kino shocks. Interestingly, Lee Grimes of Koni North America recommended Koni gas adjustables in front, but hydrolic adjustables in the rear. Grimes says E30s are "ride sensative" to shock valving, and the gas/hydrolic combination is a "best of both worlds" solution. At the same time, we replaced the front strut bearing/mounts from BMP Design and new billet rear shock mounts, also from BMP.

Sway Bars were addressed next. The BMW 325is comes standard with 20mm front and 13mm rear sway bars, adequate for street use--but too small for on-track performance. We upgraded to adjustable Racing Dynamics 22.5mm front and 16mm rear bars, again from BMW Design.

Many suspension tuner play tricks with E30 suspension bushings, swapping stock for M3 or polyurethane models. Here we chose to save money and retain the stock bushings, which add a tough of compliance to the stiffened ride. Also, all the suspension bushings on our 325is were in excellent condition.

In the next installment of the Budget Bimmer, we'll upgrade the brakes, shifting, and cooling systems. Stay tuned, Until then, enjoy our budget suspension up-grade

-Eurotuner Magazine
 
haha i hope you found that online somewhere, and didnt type it yourself.

about rebuilding and stuff.....
Im not familiar with m20s, but I think I read a used one can be had for $500+. An M3 on the other hand will cost you around 3k. Damn..... Not sure howmuch a rebuild for the m20 would be. Expect a rebuild for the m3 to be 5-10k. My motor is in very good condition now. I figure when the thing blows up I will rebuild it to a really sweet 2.5, or think about swapping in a different motor. I love the high revving s14, but it would actually be so much cheaper to put an e36 m3 or e28 m5 motor in. It would be so much quicker also.

nightmage, check with your insurance company what the cost would be. dont just assume. for me it started at $200/mo for an 18yo driver. My sisters 99 civic is about the same. Im not sure if our insurance company misquoted or something, but Im guessing its so low because it is a very old 4-cyl car.
 
well off the top of my head, good places that have aftermarket parts...........

-www.turnermotorsport.com
-www.bimmerworld.com
-bmp
-www.bavauto.com (they have a free catalog)

um, good community sites

-e30sport.net (friends m3 was car of the month a while back. incredibly clean. the white m3, names brian.)
-roadfly.org
-i know more, one is a bit underground and tiny now, just formed. guys that didnt like the mods on roadfly started a new board. they are ****ing hilarious. they bicker nonstop and call eachother names. and they are old.....i will find links later.

havent talked to my freind about them yet. it looks like the article you found answered a lot of my questions, about suffixes and more. I would definately go for an "is" then, or"i". a 318 wouldnt be bad if a clean one pops up near you.

Is your zip from virginia? I checked a few issues of roundel and there werent too many in your area.
 
ever get the impression we're the only three people here ? :D

as for:
Originally posted by advanR
nightmage, check with your insurance company what the cost would be. dont just assume. for me it started at $200/mo for an 18yo driver. My sisters 99 civic is about the same. Im not sure if our insurance company misquoted or something, but Im guessing its so low because it is a very old 4-cyl car.

insurance is a killer in the uk, i didn't just assume, i sat down and checked about 50 cars or so and their prices. i know the online company that i checked on quoted about 30% more than the one i am currently with but i've taken that into consideration, i am 21 now, i will be 22 next year and thats what i checked them as. here are some of the deals:

audi s2 avant 1993 - £1900
bmw 840 - £3000
e34 m5 - £2900
e36 m3 evo - £3700
jaguar xj6 - £2000
rx7 3rd gen - £2600
nissan 200sx - £2900
mercedes c200 - £1400
porsche 944 £1900
more bmw:
e39 520 - £1700
e39 540 - £2600
e36 318 - £1600
e30 cab 325 - £1700
e30 325 sport - £1900

all values in uk pounds sterling. multiply them by about 1.5 to get the values in US dollars.

so an e30 325 cab would be about $2,500 with that company. that same company would have charged me £1000 for my current car which is a vauxhall astra estate, however i 'only' pay £700, so i guess the 'best' deal on all those cars could be up to 30% less, but even with that reduction, $3,800 a year on an e36 m3 is a bit much. i could probably afford it but i don't want to pay the companies that much. when you turn 25 in the uk you suddenly become a better driver overnight and your insurance drops a LOT, maybe by more than 50% on some of these cars so i will probably wait until then to get something good. but till then an e30 might fill my needs nicely.

just for a comparison, a nissan skyline r34 gtr vspec would cost me £4100 a year in insurance. which is only £400 more than a second hand e36 m3 evo. considering it costs 3 or 4 times as much to buy it hardly seems fair, but thats life! :(
 
Originally posted by advanR
well off the top of my head, good places that have aftermarket parts...........

-www.turnermotorsport.com
-www.bimmerworld.com
-bmp
-www.bavauto.com (they have a free catalog)

um, good community sites

-e30sport.net (friends m3 was car of the month a while back. incredibly clean. the white m3, names brian.)
-roadfly.org
-i know more, one is a bit underground and tiny now, just formed. guys that didnt like the mods on roadfly started a new board. they are ****ing hilarious. they bicker nonstop and call eachother names. and they are old.....i will find links later.

havent talked to my freind about them yet. it looks like the article you found answered a lot of my questions, about suffixes and more. I would definately go for an "is" then, or"i". a 318 wouldnt be bad if a clean one pops up near you.

Is your zip from virginia? I checked a few issues of roundel and there werent too many in your area.

Yeah my zip is from Virginia. 23456 and 23453 both work. I will keep looking for some. I see alot of 325's but there are only a few that are for sale...
 
my friend just wrapped up that exact same swap. i need to call him up and ask him for a ride in it. it should be an insane ride. he has it totally stripped down, he estimates it is at 2400 somthing pounds.

It is going to be his daily driver, hahah.
 
I thought I'd dredge this up instead of starting a new thread... Yes, I searched.

I've taken an interest in a local 325, a 1987 model. Lots of K's (about 300,000k, or 180,000 ish miles) on it, and haven't taken a close look at it yet, but it's got new exhaust and brakes. $3000 CDN. Looks to be lowered a bit, as well.

My question concernes mileage. How long do the motors last for? (I'm not sure whether it was a 2.5 or a 2.7 I-6). Also, does anyone know of a good buyers guide for E30 Bimmers?
I am acheing to get rid of my current Neon and I think this car might be right for me.
 
Slicks
I am acheing to get rid of my current Neon and I think this car might be right for me.
I'm looking to get rid of my Neon, too, and I'm looking at 325s, though a bit newer. Good luck!

If you want great info on old Bimmers, ask the forum nutcases over at www.grmotorsports.com . They're specialists at reviving and preserving old sporty cars. I'm sure someone there could tell you exactly what to look for in a high-miles, late-'80s BMW.
 
Grassroots Motorsports is an excellent source, although this website is a little more specific:

http://bmwe30.net/

The guys there will undoubtedly know a lot about E30s, but the forum uses outdated code and is a little hard to work with. However, the website is definitely worth a look based on its tech articles alone. I did all of my research there, and it's even where I found the classified ad for the car I own now.

For both of you, if you're looking into an E30, you can rest assured that unless they've been abused, they'll run forever. The engine and drivetrain are rock-solid, and as with many Euro-cars, the body/chassis withstands rust much better than comparable Japanese or American cars. To specifically answer your question about engine longevity, Slicks, 300,000 miles isn't out of the question, but as with many cars, once you start getting into the 200,000's, the need for an engine rebuild becomes more likely. If the one you're looking at has only 300,000km's, it's still young. ;)

As far as engine choices go, avoid carburated ones (they don't have the "i" at the end of the name eg 325), but don't be afraid to check out one of the "e" models -- they have a low redline (somewhere around 4000rpm) but are no less eager to pull. If you don't mind having a mere 101 horses to work with, I'd personally recommend the old M10 that powered the first 318i's like mine, as it's a lighter and generally more reliable engine than the 6-cylinders, or the 4-cylinder found in the 318is (proof -- when BMW made the E30 M3, they chose a 4-cylinder engine based off of the M10, rather than a 6-cylinder). The 318i's will also be cheaper and will use less fuel than their more powerful siblings.

E30's handle very well, and are eager to do whatever you ask of them in a corner. BMW's aren't known for poor handling, after all. They're very light compared to a modern car (~2400lbs for a US-spec 318i; as much as 2800lbs for other models), and have a relatively short wheelbase which makes it easier for the car to rotate. And, of course, they're rear-wheel-drive.
 
advanR
Another bit of info. The e30s have rear trailing arm suspension. I was talking to a guy with an M coupe and he was saying his car shares the same setup. He was explaining how it worked to me and it all made sense. When the cars body gets lower or higher, the amount of camber changes for the rear wheels. This happens under load transfer also. So if you trailbrake into a corner, it will rotate the car as the rear wheels lose some grip. Then as you throttle out of the apex the rear end gets the grip it needs to take the power. With the bfgoodrich g-force KDs I had on my car, I did not have any oversteer at all unless I wanted it, so dont think it is too pronounced. I did feel quite a better turn in with trailbraking though, this is a good thing. As I said before I have heard the regular e30s like to slide a bit more. Im not sure why, but would like to figure out the reason. I will research it and get back.

Even a 325e with the 3.46LSD and the MarkD chip will be faster than an E30 M3.

And I can tell you that yes, the regular 325's will oversteer more than the M3. Mine loves getting sideways... I have no understeer, the more you turn the more the back rotates. I've pulled off some absolutely awesome slides in the rain... I'm talking on the gas and countersteering for maybe a 150 foot stretch. :D

I have an eta with the 3.25LSD and the MarkD chip. What I've caught off guard at stoplights lately... 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z... an RX-8 (mine makes more torque at 2500-5500 rpm than this car ever makes anywhere in its powerband, but once he hit about 2nd and got above 6000 he took off. But he gave a nice confused look when he did go by :D)... other stuff... V6 Chevy Cavalier Z24... I've gotten into some short chases (goofing around) with other people, and nothing has ever been able to stay with me around an on/off ramp. Never, I've always pulled away from them.
 
Wolfe2x7
As far as engine choices go, avoid carburated ones (they don't have the "i" at the end of the name eg 325), but don't be afraid to check out one of the "e" models -- they have a low redline (somewhere around 4000rpm) but are no less eager to pull. If you don't mind having a mere 101 horses to work with, I'd personally recommend the old M10 that powered the first 318i's like mine, as it's a lighter and generally more reliable engine than the 6-cylinders, or the 4-cylinder found in the 318is (proof -- when BMW made the E30 M3, they chose a 4-cylinder engine based off of the M10, rather than a 6-cylinder). The 318i's will also be cheaper and will use less fuel than their more powerful siblings.

E30's handle very well, and are eager to do whatever you ask of them in a corner. BMW's aren't known for poor handling, after all. They're very light compared to a modern car (~2400lbs for a US-spec 318i; as much as 2800lbs for other models), and have a relatively short wheelbase which makes it easier for the car to rotate. And, of course, they're rear-wheel-drive.

325's are not carburetted, cars that have simply "325" on the rear decklid are SuperEta's... All E30's are fuel injected, at least in the United States. This is basically a 325e with the i intake manifold, camshaft, and throttle. They make 7 more horsepower than Eta's, for 127, still 178 lb/ft of torque (At 2000 RPM!) Supereta block is what you start out with when you build a 2.8 Stroker.

I've gotten my 325e down to 2284lbs, these cars can be made very light very easily. The four cylinders can be made even lighter.

Some people were wondering what the different letter suffixes mean

i - fuel injection... a misnomer, all E30's are injected, running Bosch Motronic 1.0, or Motronic 1.1 for all cars after built after September of 1987. This is when the taillights changed as well.
e - eta, the greek symbol/letter for efficiency. (sp?)
s - sport... slightly lower ride height and stiffer shocks from the factory is all
m-tech - options package with rocker panels, front and rear bumpers, some shift knobs and steering wheels that are more sporty... stuff like that.
x - full time all wheel drive, with a 33/67 front/rear power split (don't get an x, they are more expensive to fix, as they have their own unique parts. A lot of things are different.
 
OK, between this, BMWe30.net (found it before, actually), and the Grassroots Motorsports forum, as well as some other sites I've visited, I'm quite convinced that I want one.

I'll have to see the car up close and then get an inspection on it.. see what happens from there. I'll keep you posted!
 

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