brake bias
- Thread starter viper2788
- 7 comments
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- 2,073
- Fezz_ST
- Fezz ST
I'm not much of a tuner when it comes to the R1 stuff, but my Risi 458 tune was very well received and the brake bias was 52% rearwards, this suited my style much better and helped on turn in, however the back was quite twitchy under breaking and required some skill to drive fast
In my opinion tuning the brakes is all down to the tuner and his/her driving style.
I have mine set to 58% towards the front on my R1 cars and the pressure between 140-150% but i know other people who set the bias towards the rear of the car and have their pressue at less than 100% and are still lightning fast.
Just use whatever feels comfortable, i will say this though............turn off the ABS if you have it turned on.
Brake pressure tuning ought to have more to do with control preference than braking performance, considering braking is limited by traction and stock settings are more than enough to lock the wheels completely. Similar to how performance brakes are meant to minimize heating and brake fade, rather than increase clamping power.
So adjusting the pressure setting should affect the "sweet spot" on the pedal/trigger.
So adjusting the pressure setting should affect the "sweet spot" on the pedal/trigger.
young___nate
(Banned)
- 146
- Lacey/WA/USA
- young___nate
- youngnate13
So adjusting the pressure setting should affect the "sweet spot" on the pedal/trigger.[/QUOTE]
Should, but does not?
or
Should and does?
Not sure which point you are trying to make.
I agree that increases in brake pressure should not decrease stopping distance, only the feel of input device if that is what you were saying.
Should, but does not?
or
Should and does?
Not sure which point you are trying to make.
I agree that increases in brake pressure should not decrease stopping distance, only the feel of input device if that is what you were saying.
- 1,884
- Lexington, KY
- bryphotoguy
- BryCivicSi
According to the "Benchmark" in FM4, changing pressure will alter stopping distances. Whether that is true or not, I cannot say. I am not consistent enough to test this theory out myself.
I never truly understood what brake pressure meant. I guess I figured it meant clamping force but that really doesn't make sense. Maybe it means in theory how much pressure is added or subtracted when the "brake pedal" is pressed down, ie. more pressure to lock the brakes easiers, less pressure to lock the brakes slowly.
More pressure could theoretically give you shorter stopping distances if done properly but the threshold between doing it right and locking it up is very small. Whereas if you set the pressure down, you're far less likely to lock the brakes but will travel a longer distance on the track. But you'll travel a longer distance skidding than you will with a weaker pedal so it's a trade-off.
In school, trade school to be a mechanic, I was told 15% was the optimum brake pressure. 0% being no brakes applied and 100% with pedal to its max downward or back position. Anything below 15% lengthens distance and anything more starts to lock the wheels. Skidding is just as bad, actually worse, than lighter brake pressure.
So, in my humble opinion, setting the brake pressure is purely subjective. If you are good at constantly controlling the trigger or pedal to the point you can keep the car from skidding, a higher pressure works. But if you need some extra wiggle room when braking, go with less pressure. In essence, if you go either way, you can still end up with close to the same braking distance. It just takes the right finesse to get stopped the shortest distance. Finding the "sweet spot" as you call it.
I never truly understood what brake pressure meant. I guess I figured it meant clamping force but that really doesn't make sense. Maybe it means in theory how much pressure is added or subtracted when the "brake pedal" is pressed down, ie. more pressure to lock the brakes easiers, less pressure to lock the brakes slowly.
More pressure could theoretically give you shorter stopping distances if done properly but the threshold between doing it right and locking it up is very small. Whereas if you set the pressure down, you're far less likely to lock the brakes but will travel a longer distance on the track. But you'll travel a longer distance skidding than you will with a weaker pedal so it's a trade-off.
In school, trade school to be a mechanic, I was told 15% was the optimum brake pressure. 0% being no brakes applied and 100% with pedal to its max downward or back position. Anything below 15% lengthens distance and anything more starts to lock the wheels. Skidding is just as bad, actually worse, than lighter brake pressure.
So, in my humble opinion, setting the brake pressure is purely subjective. If you are good at constantly controlling the trigger or pedal to the point you can keep the car from skidding, a higher pressure works. But if you need some extra wiggle room when braking, go with less pressure. In essence, if you go either way, you can still end up with close to the same braking distance. It just takes the right finesse to get stopped the shortest distance. Finding the "sweet spot" as you call it.
- 10,403
- GTP_Spag69
- spagetti69
Luminis hit the nail on the head with his description.
As for pressure, well I'm a wheel user, therefor I'm on pedals not triggers.
Believe it or not my pressures are around 72%. Let me explain.
Locking brakes are ineffective. I run with no ABS. Taking my car to top speed and slamming on the brakes I aim,via telemetry not to lock up until the last possible moment.
After getting my bias right, where by front and back lock up together I then set my pressure.
Works great for me. I know during a race I can apply a good stopping force with no lock up.
As for pressure, well I'm a wheel user, therefor I'm on pedals not triggers.
Believe it or not my pressures are around 72%. Let me explain.
Locking brakes are ineffective. I run with no ABS. Taking my car to top speed and slamming on the brakes I aim,via telemetry not to lock up until the last possible moment.
After getting my bias right, where by front and back lock up together I then set my pressure.
Works great for me. I know during a race I can apply a good stopping force with no lock up.
