Clueless, over The Hill Outlaws - OP Updated 06/10/14

Discussion in 'GT6 Tuning' started by CyKosis1973, Dec 6, 2013.

  1. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    'Tis a shame, indeed. It was a pig in GT5, you could get it 95%, but there was always the chance it would spit you out of a corner backwards. There's likely a few of the guys that might have a decent enough tune out there :indiff:

    {Cy}
     
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  2. randyrockstiff

    randyrockstiff

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    Golf IV R32 '03

    527pp
    461bhp

    all available upgrade except nos + oil change

    the tune

    suspension
    RH 63/65
    SR 6.40/7.85
    DC 4/6
    DE 5/4
    ARB 3/1
    CAM 1.3/1.1
    TOE -0.08/0.14
    BRAKES 7/5

    Transmission
    reset to default
    final gear to 5500
    max speed 112
    highest gear to max
    final gear to 3100

    set ratios
    1. 2.977
    2. 2.235
    3. 1.748
    4. 1.414
    5. 1.168
    6. 0.992

    LSD
    FRONT 8/24/11
    REAR 18/42/22

    Torque 50/50


    Ballast 105kg @ 50%.

    this was tuned on sport mediums so it should work well all the way up to Racing Softs.

    enjoy guys.

    again as i have mentioned before, if you think the tune needs work then by all means let me know as all help, tips and pointers to guide me in the right direction of becoming a better tuner is greatly appreciated.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2014
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  3. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE Premium

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    I actually have a replica ( sort of ) on the BMW, a 3002 TT :p, this car :

    [​IMG]

    I'll post it here if you don't mind :)
     
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  4. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    Post away, my friend. I love this car and I'm sure @randyrockstiff would appreciate it :tup:

    {Cy}
     
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  5. randyrockstiff

    randyrockstiff

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    thanks much @Ridox2JZGTE post it up buddy and i will give it a go
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2014
  6. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE Premium

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    I will when I play next time, some info about the car :
    It's a replica of a custom tuned/built BMW 2002 Turbo, nicknamed 3002 TT, it has M54 3 liter Dual Vanos engine from X5 with twin KKK turbos capable of output 330+ at the wheel HP, 5 speed gearbox from E30 M3, E39 M5 rear diff Quaife LSD. The replica still with stock 4 speed can lap Silverstone GP on CS at 2:30s. It's very loose when not careful on the gas ( comfort/street tires ), especially when the steering is not straight. The replica setup should drive well with less power, something between 200-300HP.

    In GT6, the BMW will have close to 500PP, but still can be pushed hard at Tsukuba on CS tire.
     
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  7. randyrockstiff

    randyrockstiff

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    thanks for the info bro. cant wait to give this baby a go
     
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  8. randyrockstiff

    randyrockstiff

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    Location:
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    LEXUS IS 200 (J) '98

    513pp

    442bhp

    All available upgrades except nos. Do an oil change.This car was tuned on sports medium.

    SUSPENSION

    RH 95/95
    SR 11.22/10.15
    DC 7/6
    DE 7/5
    ARB 6/2
    CAM O.8/2.2
    TOE -0.08/0.30
    BRA 4/5


    TRANSMISSION

    SET FINAL TO 5.500
    MAX SPEED TO 112
    HIGHEST GEAR MAX
    FINAL TO 2900
    SET RATIOS
    1. 3.468
    2. 2.603
    3. 2.035
    4. 1.646
    5. 1.360
    6. 1.169


    LSD
    7/24/31




    You can use the same tune above for the Beginners level non racing car challenge Seasonal Event. Just add sports hard tyres and 200kg @ -21 ballast.

    For the intermediate level non racing car challenge seasonal event just remove the weight from ballast and put on sports medium tyres.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2014
  9. romynovanda

    romynovanda

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    Thanks for this tune :tup:
    Do you any plan tune other truck like ford svt and chevy ssr? :D
     
  10. krenkme

    krenkme

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    Hello everybody :dopey: sorry for not responding earlier, on a vacation :tup:

    Let's see if I can help, and answer questions....

    First, welcome @randyrockstiff to the fun side. Please sit and enjoy some drinks and laughs. Now on your BMW, you may want to try making the "out gears"(second and third) a little longer and try 12/9/15 for the LSD to see if it helps the rear end from stepping out...just my two beers :dopey:

    @CyKosis1973 the post (OP) looks good, and sorry for the mess in my part of the shop. The elephant can be a handful sometimes. I'll clean when I can :dopey:

    No Ford, but a fat SSR is sitting in my garage waiting for a man that knows how to post a tune...if you's interested :dopey:

    Enjoying life on the beach right now, can't wait to see this game again. Race FUN everyone :dopey:
     
  11. romynovanda

    romynovanda

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    Sure i'm interested :D
     
  12. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    I've seen the pictures, my friend, you enjoy your holiday and don't worry about us until you get back. @randyrockstiff is using your end of the garage for now, on condition he follows the elephant around with a bucket and shovel :sly:

    {Cy}
     
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  13. randyrockstiff

    randyrockstiff

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    @krenkme @CyKosis1973

    Thank you sir for the kind welcome;). i
    I will indeed give the suggestion you mentioned a go and hopefully it works a treat.

    I do have a question though! I tuned a vauxhall corsa, now im kind of redoing it to make it handle better. i know adding a significant amout of weight will decrease the speed performance, but im wondering if there is anything that i can do to get my top speed back besides removing the weight. in my case ive added 163kg @ 50% ballast to the tune i currently have as this has now made my car 50/50 front/rear weight distribution.. to start with i tuned the car on race softs but im now trying to make it an all round car an currently using sport mediums. anyhelp on this subject would be great.

    thanks
     
  14. Ronald6

    Ronald6

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    Try not adding so much weight. And keep a little forward weight ballance. A car with 54/46 weight distribution will sit closer to 40/60 under acceleration. 1/3 of the weight of a car is transient weight. You must always be aware of this to go quickly or fast.
     
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  15. randyrockstiff

    randyrockstiff

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    thanks bro, i will give it a try and let you know the outcome
     
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  16. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    What @Ronald6 said. For FWD and AWD, I tend to set weight distribution to 54/46 and 52/48, respectively. For both drivetrains, it's nice to keep some of the weight over the front wheels and then use the suspension to keep it there. Recently I've been finding that for short(er) wheelbase FWD and AWD cars that a soft front and hard rear setup has worked quite well.

    Ride Height
    For a soft front/hard rear setup I've found that it's better to have the nose lower than the rear. Do not slam the car!! To start off with, make sure you have around 40mm clearance. The rear in particular requires room to work.

    Springs
    You'll need to experiment with these. In the first instance, use maths to work out what 5% and 10% is, so you can work up and down in increments. Start with the front springs at 30% and the rear at 75%, then work up and down in 10% increments initially, fine tune with 5% increments, etc. Only change one at a time and pay attention to how it affects the car. The rear spring is going to do a lot of work and will be propping the front of the car up, the front must be compliant enough to deal with track deviations and to still be flexible under braking. The stiff rear will help keep the weight to the rear under braking and to resist weight transferring to the rear under acceleration.

    Dampers
    There's no hard and fast rule here, you're just helping control the speed at which things happen. For FWD, I'll tend to run equal comp and ext in the rear, allowing the spring to work equally fast in both directions. Up front, make comp a click lower than the rear and ext a click higher. Run soft comp to allow weight ot transfer forward, but ramp the ext up to resist weight travelling to the rear under acceleration. It's key that you keep those front wheel in contact with the tarmac. For 4WD, I usually end up running identical comp and ext front and rear, typically comp will be a click or two softer than ext. Same as everything else, make one change and then make a note of how the car's behaviour changes. Below is an example of my typical starting point for dampers

    • FWD
    • Fr Comp 5/8 Fr Ext
    • Rr Comp 6/6 Rr Ext
    • 4WD
    • Fr Comp 5/7 Fr Ext
    • Rr Comp 5/7 Rr Ext
    Anti-roll bars
    As with springs, you want the rear to be 2 or 3 clicks stiffer than the front. The higher the number, the quicker the axle will respond, so you want the front to react a little slower and the rear faster. The stiffer the rear the more lift off oversteer you'll have, something that's invaluable for both drivetrains. The rear ARB will also help, along with other elements, support the front of the car, by reducing lateral weight transfer.

    Camber
    For both drivetrains you'll likely only need 1.8-2.4 front camber and 0.4-0.8 rear camber. 4WD may want a little more rear camber, FWD may require no rear camber at all. Change, test, observe.

    Toe
    4WD will likely benefit from equal amounts of front and rear toe, negative (-) front toe, positive (+) rear toe, start at -0.10/+0.10 and work in 0.05 increments. FWD will require next to no front toe, perhaps a small amount of negative (-) toe, but you can get pretty funky with the rear toe. Don't be afraid to jack the rear toe up to +0.35 or +0.45, it's crucial to keeping the rear of the car under control. Setting the rest of the suspension up so stiff will make the car want to slide the rear around, the positive (+) toe plays a key part in keeping that yawing under control.

    Brakes
    Almost without exception, you will want a rear brake bias. You don't want the bias set too high, a couple of clicks difference is fine, 4/6 or 3/5. This bias will induce yet more oversteer on braking.

    Diff
    Go read Motor City Hami's guides, he's the man.

    I've built and posted a number of AWD cars recently, all built in the same way. They're lively and agile, but should be completely drivable near the limit. They rely in no small part on lift-off oversteer, allowing you to change racing line using the throttle. Give one a try and compare to what I've written above, there's logic to my madness :tup:

    {Cy}
     
  17. Woodski_427

    Woodski_427

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    @CyKosis1973 - I had a run at the Willow Springs TT in the '05 Imprezza. Safe for a gold, but its lack of trail-braking prowess costs you a bit on this track - good fun though, changes direction nicely and I was on 1:18.6 with it. The build doesn't leave much room for a FD change, so I tried out a close gearing setup and short-shifted but I think a bit wider would be better as you have quite a flat mid range curve.
     
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  18. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    Thanks for giving the Scooby a thrashing. I'll see if I can make some changes to better suit flat track racing. It's likely far too stiff for wide, sweeping corners, much preferring the quick chuck in and power out style required at The Ring. I left you a comment regarding tailoring gearboxes in the Seasonal thread :tup:

    EDIT: The Marcos may finally get me to spend some proper time on gearboxes. The car is lively enough and a proper chuckle, but man does it need some custom cogs :indiff:
     
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  19. Woodski_427

    Woodski_427

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    This is the short technical track so it felt quite at home to me. The only sweeper really being the first corner which I think you could do flat out if your line is spot-on, but I usually bottled-it and lifted off for an instant to help bring the backend round and check the speed a little. The banked corner is a bit tricky, but you can power out early towards the blind dog-leg...

    Gear wise, top speed isn't that high (below 120mph I think) which is probably why I ended up with close gears. Maybe using it as a 5-speed could make better use of the power delivery. Is the advantage with shorter ratios or more careful use of the torque/power? If I get the chance I'll give it another run :tup:.

    I'm glad you're enjoying the Marcos. I never really bothered mucking about with the gears on mine - they are set wide for top speed around 140mph, and drop into the mid range power when changing up. Perhaps not so tricky with manual as I can shift before the power drops off, and I'm also not searching for perfection! :lol:
     
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  20. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    Yikes, just took the '05 out at this event, it's a bit sensitive on the brakes!! I ran within 0.040 of your time and called it close enough :tup:

    {Cy}
     
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  21. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    Guys, I've been having an issue with my rear tyres overheating, any ideas on how to fix the problem? I recorded a short video to show you the problem, them tyres look pretty hot to me :sly:

     
  22. Woodski_427

    Woodski_427

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    Yes, hanging out the back end is amusing but not the fastest way around the track :lol:. I did a few more laps using your transmission method set at 124mph, which seemed about right, but I could not better 1:18.6xxx (my fastest time is with the Evoque).
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2014
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  23. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    I'm way ahead of the pack in the Scoobaroo, up until the last section, where it all goes a little Pete Tong :odd:

    I'll work on all three cars and see if I can get them working a little better at tracks like this. I suspect they're better suited to the Ring, because more often than not, you're barrelling in at high speeds and having to shed it quickly. This is almost always done in a straight line. When turning is required during braking, it's usually the tiniest tap, just to bring the rear round. It may only require a slight reduction in brake strength, I'll have a fiddle...

    {Cy}
     
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  24. danbojte

    danbojte

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    450PP SS No Aids ABS 0: 2/3

    Expert Level Front Engine Rear Wheel Drives: Non-Race Car Challenge

    • Twin Ring Motegi East Course, 5 Laps
    • Period of Availability: 09/03/2014 23:00 – 09/17/2014 23:00
    • 500PP Max, Sports/Soft compounds or less
    Winner! Great car, my friend. :tup:
     
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  25. danbojte

    danbojte

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    The same message as above, for Sam, AC. ;) :tup:
     
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  26. danbojte

    danbojte

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    Last edited: Sep 9, 2014
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  27. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    An end to the Disco Brake Lights? I don't know how many times I've swerved on the track because I thought @NEWDRIVER2 was suddenly braking..!! :sly:

    {Cy}
     
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  28. danbojte

    danbojte

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    Yes, Sir, that's it. ;)
     
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  29. NEWDRIVER2

    NEWDRIVER2

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    Hi guys ,
    @danbojte , thank you my friend for using my FT 450PP by upgrading it to 500PP :tup: I did the same by getting it up to 500PP and it was much better shifting by adding to it some parts using the same tune with another transmission but I couldn't post it, and thank you for giving me the solution for my Pedal :tup:

    @CyKosis1973 , :lol: looks like I cause many problem for you guys while racing with me sorry for that . @danbojte he give me the solution to fix it :sly:

    @praiano63 and @danbojte and @SolidSnake7735 thank you for the great races last night it was really fun :tup: Hope to see you again next Sunday and Monday night .

    ND
     
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  30. CyKosis1973

    CyKosis1973

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    The only problem you ever cause me is your fast cars and good driving :mischievous: Although to be fair, when you're climbing the hill at 130-150mph and the car in front of you sudden appears to be braking, it can cause some spectacular crashes..!! :lol:

    Sorry I couldn't make it last night, jobs around the house and my turn to cook!! I'm watching BTCC Touring Cars right now, wish we had some of them in GT6, they're just about right for us to charge around the Ring :tup:

    {Cy}
     
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