Coming from GT Sport, having trouble enjoying PC2

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CurbHog
I just drove the Bentley GTR. The Ferrari sounds ok.
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Although those cars are popular, they are difficult to drive - I recommend starting with the Ginetta Junior and (if you are using a wheel) putting the driving aids off. Another great car to start with is the Road G, Ford Escort RS1600. If you start with easier cars and build up gradually it will be easier to lap consistently and within the track limits when you progress to more powerful machines.
 
Turn off track limits penalty and go by the honor system. You'll get WAY less annoyed by that dinging sound telling you to slow down.
If you make a mistake and gain a position, I find it more rewarding to get out of the way and give the position back rather than submit to the inconsistent or strict track limits proposed in the game. When learning the game for the first time, you're going to get off balance and cut a corner here and there, it's inevitable really. Once you start getting real good, turn it back on if you feel the need.
 
I always recommend turning them off since I have two problems with the penalty system:
- it appears to be so strict that in some turns you can't take the same line as the AI
- you sometimes get penalized even if you already lost quite some time

As Beezer as long as you stay honest with yourself there is nothing wrong with racing with those track limits off.
 
Sick Cylinder
Although those cars are popular, they are difficult to drive - I recommend starting with the Ginetta Junior and (if you are using a wheel) putting the driving aids off. Another great car to start with is the Road G, Ford Escort RS1600. If you start with easier cars and build up gradually it will be easier to lap consistently and within the track limits when you progress to more powerful machines.
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Thanks for the tips ! Much less frustrating. The Ford is UGLY but fun to drive ...
 
Beezer215
I found that if you're referring to Project Cars 2, the game is basically the same in terms of physics but the graphics are a bit better.
The main difference is the choice of sims. Now you can get into rFactor, iRacing, Automobilista and of course the modded version of Assetto Corsa which is just amazing.
These are all pretty good titles to dive into.
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But having tittles like Assetto, Pcars2, gt sport, on ps4 .. does a move from ps4 to pc worth it?
 
speedy10
But having tittles like Assetto, Pcars2, gt sport, on ps4 .. does a move from ps4 to pc worth it?
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Allow me to try to answer that coz I had the same question. I had the same games in addition to dirt rally, Sebastien Loeb etc...

What helped me to change is the following:
-I wanted a higher fps.
-I wanted to play the highly rated games like Rfactor2, Raceroom, Automobilista, iRacing etc... (at some point in the future)
-I wanted to play all of these games in pure VR (not demo VR of GTS).
-Or I wanted to be able to play all of these in triple screens.
That alone warranted the change for me. I now play all of these in VR and trust me racing a whole field in VR in AC or PC2 is just majestic...
I didn't mention the huge number of mods (I have more than 100 tracks on AC and more than a thousand cars...).
I didn't mention all kind of hardware compatibility (mix and match any wheel with any shifter with any pedals...).
I didn't mention the "CrewChief" app that is amazing.
I didn't mention the huge number of accessories, add-ons, and madness you can do on PC.

Oh, did I mention VR?!? :lol::sly:
 
Georgeagea
Allow me to try to answer that coz I had the same question. I had the same games in addition to dirt rally, Sebastien Loeb etc...

What helped me to change is the following:
-I wanted a higher fps.
-I wanted to play the highly rated games like Rfactor2, Raceroom, Automobilista, iRacing etc... (at some point in the future)
-I wanted to play all of these games in pure VR (not demo VR of GTS).
-Or I wanted to be able to play all of these in triple screens.
That alone warranted the change for me. I now play all of these in VR and trust me racing a whole field in VR in AC or PC2 is just majestic...
I didn't mention the huge number of mods (I have more than 100 tracks on AC and more than a thousand cars...).
I didn't mention all kind of hardware compatibility (mix and match any wheel with any shifter with any pedals...).
I didn't mention the "CrewChief" app that is amazing.
I didn't mention the huge number of accessories, add-ons, and madness you can do on PC.

Oh, did I mention VR?!? :lol::sly:
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Thanks for your reply! It´s lucky for me that you had the same question, you will understand me. I also have Sebastian Loeb, DR1, DR2, and F1 series.
VR will not be included on my to do list (on short term). Mainly I would like to move to PC because:
- I m from Argentina and as you may know, Ps store prices are on USD and every day an offer on the store (let´s call an offer 10USD game price?), is not an offer for me haha. I checked on Steam and prices are much cheaper.
- I think that we´re going through the end of this Gen and consoles are giving us trash - on simRacing at least.

The biggest concern for me would be:
- Do I will get higher fps? I´m looking for a pc with: Ryzen 5, 8gb Ram, Rx 580 4GB video card. Running on a Full HD Samsung TV (not a monitor).
- Would I get better experience in terms of IA, pyhsics? Taking into account PC Settings mentioned above.
- Would I perceive improvements in terms of graphics? Same, with PC settings mentioned.
- Would be annoying to have to use keyboard and mouse? haha please do not laught on this point.
- Is this move a short term move? Or I´m going to run the next gen of gaming? (Obviusly buying a new video card but keeing mother, ram, and proc).
 
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I'm going to go back on what I said before with the blanket statement of "the physics are the same between console and PC".

I finally got my new gaming PC up and running and oddly enough, the handling is better. It seems like I'm whipping around tracks at a better pace all around. Especially with larger fields but I even feel like there's a slight change in general. It's a better experience. Now it handles dynamic weather changes, no screen tearing from a console being overloaded. Plus I am able to load all the Project CARS 2 mods and use those as well which really fills out the road car category nicely.

@speedy10
Yes, you'll notice a difference. Yes, those specs should run it fine. We can't comment for PC3/R but I would think that they should run that too barring they create some amazing graphical masterpiece that only a 2080 ti could barely tackle. (doubtful)
You are limited on the console. BUT, what you get is a turn on and play device. That's convenience. But really all you're getting is Gran Turismo Sport and let's be honest, well, I'm not even going to get into that.
I'm still figuring out all these mods and Content Manager on AC. Same goes for rFactor 2 which really leaves me scratching my head because some of the stuff on there is nice and then some of the other mods are like from Playstation 1. WTF?
None the less, I'm having FUN figuring it all out and the options between AC and rF2, especially AC, are just mind blowing. You have to weed through some of the crap but what's available is wonderful.
Add PC2 running as intended and it's the icing on the cake.

I forgot to add that my old PC when I commented before was outdated and barely able to run PC2 with everything turned low or off so I used to just play it on PS4 Pro. Same with AC.
 
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Beezer215
I'm going to go back on what I said before with the blanket statement of "the physics are the same between console and PC".

I finally got my new gaming PC up and running and oddly enough, the handling is better. It seems like I'm whipping around tracks at a better pace all around. Especially with larger fields but I even feel like there's a slight change in general. It's a better experience. Now it handles dynamic weather changes, no screen tearing from a console being overloaded. Plus I am able to load all the Project CARS 2 mods and use those as well which really fills out the road car category nicely.
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Interesting. Thanks for the input
 
slthree
But, having a one-hour practice session where you can see how your time stacks up against the AI and then tinker with your settings over and over and over again is very beneficial. Early advice I got on these forums from the veteran drivers was that you should really take numerous laps on a track to get to know it before you attempt to race on it. That may be the best piece of advice I've ever received. The practice session allows you to learn the tracks so well that you literally know what gear you want to be in when you go into every turn.
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MetaKraken
I'm with you there, OP. I tried to have fun with PCars 2 myself. It was more of a major snore-fest than a fun game, and the way cars handle are way off and they don't actually handle pretty well, and the engine sounds are just displeasing to my ears. And it sure doesn't feel rewarding apart from earning trophies/achievements, especially when you practically have all the cars to begin with, not counting paid-DLC contents which I'm not willing to give up my wallet for a couple of new toys.

On a side note, the devs claiming that they want to make a console of their own is utterly laughable.
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What cars, tracks did you use?
How many hours did you play?
Did you use a wheel?
What racing game do you play the most?
 
fiddle245
What cars, tracks did you use?
How many hours did you play?
Did you use a wheel?
What racing game do you play the most?
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I started with lower power cars in order to get a feel for the game. I can't remember which car but there was a 700 horsepower car that I tried to drive in project cars 2 very early on and I couldn't even keep it straight on a straight line. That same car on Gran Turismo sport and I was able to throw it around like nobody's business!

I use a wheel now but when I first started I used a controller. I don't know which update it was but the controller settings seemed to please a lot of people and there are many very fast drivers who use the controller

Almost all of my racing time is with PC2. From time to time, very rarely, I go back to GT sport and play it briefly but I always come back to project cars 2

In response to the other poster that you quoted, I don't find anything boring about project cars 2. I don't know why somebody would call it boring. That's something they would have to elaborate on themselves.

What I do know is that the game is hard and it requires patience and it requires smooth driving, as opposed to just throwing the car all over the place without really understanding the numerous factors that go in to being successful on a particular track with a specific car.

I'll give you a perfect example. There's a guy here with a tag of @Chikane. He is a Master with one of the high-powered McLaren cars. He has so much time with that car he can tame it. Someone coming to this game for the first time, even if they can drive that car in another game would have no chance of matching him.

Like real Motorsport, it takes so much practice with a specific car at a specific track to be good. And, it takes infinitely more practice, to be elite.
 
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Hi! I also come from GT Sport, and since it's on sale at just €14.99 I wanted to buy it. Just a few questions though: is it playable on a controller?
I played for years on GT Sport and I'm used to that game's handling, but I tried Project Cars 1 for a while and its handling just threw me off; I had tried dozen of settings and even on the best one there still was something that didn't feel right, probably to do with the speed sensitivity.
In GT Sport I can just hop on whatever race car I want, whatever track I want and in 1 hour I can usually set a fast time. Yes, Project Cars is more realistic but I won't play a game if I have to spend half of the time to make it at least playable.
Also, I hope that a Project Cars 3 doesn't release in at least a year, I want to make this a worthy purchase.
 
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KepleroGT
Hi! I also come from GT Sport, and since it's on sale at just €14.99 I wanted to buy it. Just a few questions though: is it playable on a controller?
I played for years on GT Sport and I'm used to that game's handling, but I tried Project Cars for a while and its handling just threw me off; I had tried dozen of settings and even on the best one there still was something that didn't feel right, probably to do with the speed sensitivity. In GT Sport I can just hop on whatever race car I want, whatever track I want and in 1 hour I can usually set a fast time. Yes, Project Cars is more realistic but I won't play a game if I have to spend half of the time to make it at least playable.
Also, I hope that a Project Cars 3 doesn't release in at least a year, I want to make this a worthy purchase.
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Yes, it's playable on a controller. There are videos on youtube of guys winning hard races with the AI set to 100. It can be done.
PC2 is a few degrees harder than GTS. In many aspects. Yes you'll have to play with the settings for a little while. There's a lot of settings but then again you can tailor it to you. One thing you might want to try is turning the steering assistance on too. In Gran Turismo Sport even though it doesn't say so, it seems there's an automatic steering assist being applied when you use a controller as opposed to a wheel. This setting alone might get you in the ballpark of where you want or make it feel more comfortable compared to GTS.
 
KepleroGT
Hi! I also come from GT Sport, and since it's on sale at just €14.99 I wanted to buy it. Just a few questions though: is it playable on a controller?
I played for years on GT Sport and I'm used to that game's handling, but I tried Project Cars for a while and its handling just threw me off; I had tried dozen of settings and even on the best one there still was something that didn't feel right, probably to do with the speed sensitivity. In GT Sport I can just hop on whatever race car I want, whatever track I want and in 1 hour I can usually set a fast time. Yes, Project Cars is more realistic but I won't play a game if I have to spend half of the time to make it at least playable.
Also, I hope that a Project Cars 3 doesn't release in at least a year, I want to make this a worthy purchase.
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The almost 100k miles with my p1 gtr says yes it is playable with a controller and you can also look up good settings that work for both the ps4 and xb1
 
try this ! i play with this setting, ps4 controller

20
50
0
0
0
0
0
0
95
50

I tried 100 settings, that suits me



audi R8; trainning 70 level
 
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And I changed literally nothing on the controller settings and could (depending on car / track combo) beat the AI at 120.
But yes is takes a little more time to understand how a car handles and how you can push to the limit and that is what I enjoy about the game.
GT Sport doesnt give me that feeling of a reward.
 
Blob_91
And I changed literally nothing on the controller settings and could (depending on car / track combo) beat the AI at 120.
But yes is takes a little more time to understand how a car handles and how you can push to the limit and that is what I enjoy about the game.
GT Sport doesnt give me that feeling of a reward.
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make the kilometer daily, and you will have a car that you already have and that you can not resell :lol:
 
I bought this on Steam for the PC, because I wanted something a bit more sim-like than FH4. Wow, did I ever get that?!

Playing with an ancient DFGT, which is working well enough, once I turned the force feedback down. This thread has made me realise I may want to tweak the steering settings a little as well.

I find the practice/quali/race format to be really good, but it does take a while to complete. FH4 is always there for "quick blast" requirements. I'm looking forward to getting into this in more depth.
 
GilesGuthrie
Playing with an ancient DFGT, which is working well enough, once I turned the force feedback down. This thread has made me realise I may want to tweak the steering settings a little as well.
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I believe on PC you can make use of custom FFB settings which might prove beneficial. There's a thread about it HERE.

Using the custom race option you can skip the practice and qualifying and go straight into a race. If you want to that is. :)

Here's a LINK to the manual if you ever need more info.
 
What people need to realize also including myself. Is that a lot of us have spent 5, 10 or even more years playing GT series. It is unfair to Project Cars, Asseta Corsa or other more dedicated race sims and yourself to judge them by lack of understanding of how to use what the game has provided and devote the time learn the cars and tracks.

It's easy to stick with what ya know and are used to. I guess it comes down to what is rewarding and enjoyable for yourself. With wireless headphones the sounds of PC and Corsa are way better then GTS. I think the sounds are instrumental in providing that more in depth race environment.
 
What in game brake settings do some of you use?

I am only using T-150, however at 25% or so of brake peddle depression on most cars the brakes seem to lock up easily. That is even with real settings on for the in car control settings. What I typically have to do is use a lot let off the gas probably earlier then normal and barely press the brake peddle.

Was messing around with a bunch of settings yesterday and for the most part ...kind of got to start over for what works for me.

The more I play, the more that I think Project Cars has the most potential to keep improving.
 
greenlightning
What in game brake settings do some of you use?

I am only using T-150, however at 25% or so of brake peddle depression on most cars the brakes seem to lock up easily. That is even with real settings on for the in car control settings. What I typically have to do is use a lot let off the gas probably earlier then normal and barely press the brake peddle.

Was messing around with a bunch of settings yesterday and for the most part ...kind of got to start over for what works for me.

The more I play, the more that I think Project Cars has the most potential to keep improving.
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To get the basics out of the way first... do you calibrate your brake by pressing it fully a couple times after loading the game before driving? Because 25% of your brake should never have a problem like you describe unless you forget to calibrate and it reads that as 100%. If that is the case the game HUD will usually show your brake as being on full even though you're barely touching the pedal, but after just one or two full presses of the pedal that should correct itself. You should technically do that with all the pedals but for obvious reasons it rarely causes an issue with the accelerator or clutch.

There are a few cars that do have quite sensitive brakes that I find without ABS I need to reduce the brake pressure in the car settings to not immediately lock up at full brake, but usually going down 5-10% is enough to fix that. I think the lowest I've used was 70-75% for Formula C. But if you are consistently locking up in a straight line at 25% of your pedal something is very wrong and it's probably not just the car settings.

I usually brake nearly full and then back off gradually to just guessing somewhere around 2/3rds pressure over time to avoid it locking in longer brake zones - it's quite different how stiff you can be with different cars. You need to release the brake more when you start turning sharper too whether ABS is on or not, because you need more of the available grip for turning instead of slowing down. But if you're having problems you should probably focus on getting all of your braking done in a straight line first, and then start to blend in a bit of trail braking as you get more comfortable.
 
Morgoth_666
To get the basics out of the way first... do you calibrate your brake by pressing it fully a couple times after loading the game before driving? Because 25% of your brake should never have a problem like you describe unless you forget to calibrate and it reads that as 100%. If that is the case the game HUD will usually show your brake as being on full even though you're barely touching the pedal, but after just one or two full presses of the pedal that should correct itself. You should technically do that with all the pedals but for obvious reasons it rarely causes an issue with the accelerator or clutch.

There are a few cars that do have quite sensitive brakes that I find without ABS I need to reduce the brake pressure in the car settings to not immediately lock up at full brake, but usually going down 5-10% is enough to fix that. I think the lowest I've used was 70-75% for Formula C. But if you are consistently locking up in a straight line at 25% of your pedal something is very wrong and it's probably not just the car settings.

I usually brake nearly full and then back off gradually to just guessing somewhere around 2/3rds pressure over time to avoid it locking in longer brake zones - it's quite different how stiff you can be with different cars. You need to release the brake more when you start turning sharper too whether ABS is on or not, because you need more of the available grip for turning instead of slowing down. But if you're having problems you should probably focus on getting all of your braking done in a straight line first, and then start to blend in a bit of trail braking as you get more comfortable.
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Thanks for reply.

Yes pedals are calibrated. I have turned up breaking dead zone and that seems to be better.

Did change calibration of wheel to 360 degrees. Think that I have been running at closer to 900 degree and cars were always very jerky when shifting gears. 360 degree seems to provide much smoother steering and has reduced the car jerking during shifting..
Have mucked up my FOV settings so need to get them back to where I am comfortable.

Really wished in the FOV menu settings that it would be more intuitive, like maybe even bring up screen or test track with you in the car. Then pausing allows you to make the adjustments.

Anyway all good, should of took photo of settings before messing with them.
 
greenlightning
Thanks for reply.

Yes pedals are calibrated. I have turned up breaking dead zone and that seems to be better.

Did change calibration of wheel to 360 degrees. Think that I have been running at closer to 900 degree and cars were always very jerky when shifting gears. 360 degree seems to provide much smoother steering and has reduced the car jerking during shifting..
Have mucked up my FOV settings so need to get them back to where I am comfortable.

Really wished in the FOV menu settings that it would be more intuitive, like maybe even bring up screen or test track with you in the car. Then pausing allows you to make the adjustments.

Anyway all good, should of took photo of settings before messing with them.
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Well then I'm not sure what might cause your issue - particularly if the HUD is showing the correct amount of brake. Maybe somebody smarter than me knows something more. The brakes can be a little tricky but with warm race tires you should still be able to get on them pretty hard. For whatever it's worth I checked my own settings, deadzone is on 7 and sensitivity is on 35(I think I changed that from 50 for more control). It sounds like what you need might be upper deadzone if it's maxing out too early, and you can't adjust that for PC2 unless there's a way to do it in the wheel's driver. I don't see anything for the pedals in my T300's driver, so I'd guess the T150 probably doesn't either.
 
greenlightning
I have turned up breaking dead zone and that seems to be better.
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A very small amount of dead zone may help with pedal problems but I'd say try reducing the brake sensitivity instead/as well. With the dead zone the brakes will come on just the same, but latter. Reduced sensitivity will lower your initial input which might help your problem.

greenlightning
Really wished in the FOV menu settings that it would be more intuitive
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You can adjust the FOV with your results seen on screen. I usually do it like this...
(Edit: In private testing/practice mode) Go out onto track and select your chosen view then press pause and select 'return to pits'. Go into the FOV menu in the options. To see the direct changes you need to switch off the 'Field Of View Speed Sensitivity' (FOVSS) option. Now if you adjust your chosen view you should see the changes reflected on screen.

Switching the FOVSS on again will cause the view to shift on screen to the 'Minimum Speed Sensitivity' value you have set. This will change dynamically as you drive so it might be best to leave FOVSS off for now. Those settings require a bit more explaining. :)

Remember you can adjust the seat position (on the fly) separately to the FOV, so this gives you even more to play with!
 
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