Controller/Wheel Settings

Scheer
I'm still struggling to get decent feedback around centre without it being too much when I wind on some lock. I crashed trying to save a slide and the T300 tried to rip my arms out of their sockets. Guess that's what happens when you've got a Wookie in charge of things. :/
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Lol
 
BIG CAROLINA
Thank you, thank you, thank you. After several hours of trying to have one setting for all cars I finally decided to give your settings a shot and you nailed it for the T150. I have driven everything from Formula cars to GT cars and they all feel great with these settings.
Thanks again.
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It's a decent baseline for Raw.
I'll dive deeper into the configuration settings this weekend.
One other tip is to set brake pressure to 85% in vehicle tuning.
Our T150s running no load cells or conical brake mods are very sensitive to front wheel lockup.
 
Ibonibo
^Try playing with that Tone slider. Thou the wheel going lighter when loosing grip is normal.
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I'll mess with the tone slider but i mean really light the wheel goes when drifting. Im used to the normal light feeling but this is excessive. Is there anywhere i can see you drifting to see how your front wheels move around or respond?
 
Ibonibo
No clue...

But I had a numbness around the first degrees of rotation... and with that at 0 it's gone. Might help someone as wheel settings recommendations are still scare
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What worked for me for that centre numbness was to set Steering Deadzone to 0.

For now, I'm satisfied with my setup, but may try the spring strength thing in the future.
 
35mm
What worked for me for that centre numbness was to set Steering Deadzone to 0.

For now, I'm satisfied with my setup, but may try the spring strength thing in the future.
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I'm seeing people posting settings on YouTube with zeroed out spring strength settings which is counter productive to your tune.

The whole point of spring strength is to control resistance, zero resistance would limit your FFB.

The only settings I zero out are steering, throttle, clutch, and brake deadzone.
 
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PS4 T300RS

If you guys could test something for me that'd be great. I've had center deadzone issues with the FFB. If I switch the flavour to Informative the deadzone is minimal. If it is set to Immersive the deadzone is huge and the FFB doesn't always pickup while cornering either. On Raw there is also a deadzone but it is in between the other two. A friend tested this and felt the exact same thing on a T300. I tested with all setting at 50. Is this what is supposed to happen? The deadzone on Immersive is so bad it's almost unplayable. It's a FFB deadzone not steering.
 
What are you turning down? I put it on Raw and the only thing I ever change is lowering the overall gain if I clip a little. So far most cars are good at 90-100. I think the gain bar adjusts everything together proportionately.
 
ozwheels
PS4 T300RS

If you guys could test something for me that'd be great. I've had center deadzone issues with the FFB. If I switch the flavour to Informative the deadzone is minimal. If it is set to Immersive the deadzone is huge and the FFB doesn't always pickup while cornering either. On Raw there is also a deadzone but it is in between the other two. A friend tested this and felt the exact same thing on a T300. I tested with all setting at 50. Is this what is supposed to happen? The deadzone on Immersive is so bad it's almost unplayable. It's a FFB deadzone not steering.
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FFB has a natural deadzone when your wheel is at zero degrees. (Just sitting there untouched)
You shouldn't start feeling FFB until you turn left or right 1 or 2 degrees.
I assume you have calibrated it with Project Cars 2.
I have my cousin over we're tuning his 300, with that and my T150 the Thrustmaster products seem to give best FFB in Raw setting with steering deadzone at 0.
 
sytfu
I'll mess with the tone slider but i mean really light the wheel goes when drifting. Im used to the normal light feeling but this is excessive. Is there anywhere i can see you drifting to see how your front wheels move around or respond?
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I will look this evening or tomorrow. I drifted the R34 and 1M around Sugo no problem.

35mm
What worked for me for that centre numbness was to set Steering Deadzone to 0.

For now, I'm satisfied with my setup, but may try the spring strength thing in the future.
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Already had that at 0. That's what weirded me out.

XXI
I'm seeing people posting settings on YouTube with zeroed out spring strength settings which is counter productive to your tune.

The whole point of spring strength is to control resistance, zero resistance would limit your FFB.

The only settings I zero out are steering, throttle, clutch, and brake deadzone.
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THe ingame spring isn't affected. Menu return is affected. But also my ingame center is more precise... It's fishy, but as long as it works (at least for me)
 
XXI
FFB has a natural deadzone when your wheel is at zero degrees. (Just sitting there untouched)
You shouldn't start feeling FFB until you turn left or right 1 or 2 degrees.
I assume you have calibrated it with Project Cars 2.
I have my cousin over we're tuning his 300, with that and my T150 the Thrustmaster products seem to give best FFB in Raw setting with steering deadzone at 0.
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The amount of deadzone I'm talking about is much more than 1 or 2 degrees. With Informative the wheel feels very tight and I can place the car where I want. With the other 2 it feels like the wheels aren't connected to the steering wheel. The car just does it's own thing.
 
DesertPenguin09
What are you turning down? I put it on Raw and the only thing I ever change is lowering the overall gain if I clip a little. So far most cars are good at 90-100. I think the gain bar adjusts everything together proportionately.
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I turned the gain down a little too, that's it really
 
ozwheels
The amount of deadzone I'm talking about is much more than 1 or 2 degrees. With Informative the wheel feels very tight and I can place the car where I want. With the other 2 it feels like the wheels aren't connected to the steering wheel. The car just does it's own thing.
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@35mm has a good setup posted on page 2 here, have you tried that?
Your describing alot of wheel motion before FFB engages, I've seen no one else say that yet which makes me wonder if you have a hardware issue. I hope not.
 
XXI
@35mm has a good setup posted on page 2 here, have you tried that?
Your describing alot of wheel motion before FFB engages, I've seen no one else say that yet which makes me wonder if you have a hardware issue. I hope not.
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I've done a lot of wondering about the issue myself. My wheel works fine on pCars 1 without the described issue though. It may just be a case of settings but when my friend reported the same thing it made me think it's a bug.
 
ozwheels
I've done a lot of wondering about the issue myself. My wheel works fine on pCars 1 without the described issue though. It may just be a case of settings but when my friend reported the same thing it made me think it's a bug.
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I get the same thing. Not much FFB with slight movements then suddenly it's really strong with more steering input. Was thinking it's just designed like this. At least I get 1:1 movement with the driver's hands now. Not sure why anyone would leave the steering deadzone setting on default as theres no 1:1 that way.

Have to wait a few hours till I can do further testing, which I feel like I've done more of than actual racing at the mo.
 
bleeder
I get the same thing. Not much FFB with slight movements then suddenly it's really strong with more steering input. Was thinking it's just designed like this. At least I get 1:1 movement with the driver's hands now. Not sure why anyone would leave the steering deadzone setting on default as theres no 1:1 that way.

Have to wait a few hours till I can do further testing, which I feel like I've done more of than actual racing at the mo.
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I got the exact same sensations as well when I tested various settings under Informative and Raw. Never could find that sweet spot. Tried as many posted settings but many had the same results. Then this...
35mm
So far, I'm at:

Profile: Immersive
Gain: 30
Volume: 60
Tone: 40
FX: 45
Menu Spring Strength: 0.40

And, very important:

Steering Deadzone: 0


T300 on the PS4.

Edit: Also make sure you make these tests with the tyres warm, otherwise you may think you are getting no feedback at all when in fact it's just the tyres that are still cold and slippery.
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I did try Immersive briefly but it was a heavyweight mess. Either I was going to break my T300 or my arms would be ripped out. But it seems dropping Gain down to 30 does the trick. Although my wheel was too smooth (for my liking) with 35mm's settings, I could feel the changes between various bumps/kerbs/wheel lock were less peaky. Bingo! 💡 Now I just needed to find the settings for more pronounced feedback without making the wheel too heavy to turn. I'm calling it a night with these settings. (Tested with Indycar @ COTA, Lotus 51 @ Monza historic, P1 GTR @ COTA, and Aston DB11 @ Laguna.)

T300RS Control Panel
75% strength
100%
100%
100%
0% damper

In-game FFB
Immersive
Gain 31 (Final tweak of +1 from 35mm's setting after I finalized the other settings. Wanted to add just a bit more strength.)
Volume 45 (decreased from 35mm's setting because I increased FX)
Tone 40
FX 63

Speed Sensitivity 20 (tweak to your liking)
Damper Saturation 5 (tweak to your liking)
 
I've revised mine and been doing a good bit of research on what SMS say these options do in FFB and how they affect the car.

 
Not sure if I have a bug here or not, maybe I'm missing something.

XB1 - Fan CSW v2 rev316 -
Raw (default settings in game 100, 50, 50, etc.)
Wheel . . .
Sens Auto
FF Auto or 100
SHO Off
Abs 80
Dri off
BRKF 50

Run a practice session (and this happens on at least Road American and RedBull Ring) with Z4 GT3 and Caddy GT3, no issues- feedback is heavy (which I like) no clipping. Exit and start a custom race, same car same track and the wheel clips out harshly from what seems like basic road feel fx. Totally unplayable. Exit and go back to the practice, ffb is fine. Rinse, repeat. I have rebooted, recalibrated, hard reset my XB. I reset all custom race settings to default, and tried again, it's better but still clipping. The weird thing to me is that my very first outing was a custom race in an F40 Comp at Long Beach- no issue what so ever in any session, practice, qualify, race.

Are their feedback settings being saved by car/track? I'm not sure a yes totally explains the issue, as I took the caddy out without making any changes to the tune/controls/ffb.

I'd really like to figure out what is going on so I can get it corrected or report a bug. Anyone running similar gear/settings or have time to test that would be great. Simplest test would be default settings for wheel/ffb, RAW, Z4 @ Road America. Run a practice, then run a custom race. If you experience what I experienced, the testing will go fine, first practice session, you'll know by turn one something is wrong.
 
Good thing it's working out for you too, @OooAhh Cantona.


By the way, I also felt exactly what you're all describing when I initially changed to Immersive: very numb around the centre (and a big centre at that) and then suddenly too heavy. I couldn't believe how unnatural the whole thing felt.

I don't understand who in their right mind decides that that should be a default setting for the T300.
 
I have lowered my steering sensitivity from 50 to 48, as I found 50 made my car wander ever so slightly as my arms were just holding the wheel down a straight, for example; whereas 48 takes just a tiny sting off it and allows my arms to naturally hold the wheel without making the car start to move left or right. I tried 45 and it wasn't responsive enough, so raised it a bit.
 
ron24
Any good Ps4 Controller settings? I looked through these post but didn't notice any.
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I've tried three different "internet" setups. Nothing works for me, so my advice is to start from default and after you get the feel, start making minor changes every time until you find your sweet spot.
 
bleeder
Just in case you didnt do this, when you rotate to 90 degrees you need to first let the wheel recentre after you rotated it fully and pressed select, then once it's recentred you move it to 90 and press select again. Should be around 900ish.
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I did not do that. I knew there had to be a step I was skipping but it had been so long since I've done it I couldn't remember what it was. I'm out of town right now but when I get back I'll recalibrate.

Thanks for the reminder. :)
 

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