"Daily" Race Discussion [Archive]

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Started 4th, took 3rd place off the line. Watched 1st and 2nd bump the hell out of each other and finally took each other off at T1 on lap 4. Finished with a 4 second advantage. Not my best win, but I'll take them anyway they come.
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All this makes me want PD to lay out a rulebook of sorts.
The thing is I have read your posts, and I love simplicity, but myself have run cars off track etc and received no penalty or sr down, so I’m unsure what the actual rules are.
From what I can tell it definitely is a bit deeper than contact car off penalty, I’ve done that and got nothing.
This is why I began the other thread, to try to get examples and look at them.

Good point. We're always showing false positives on here, yet hardly ever post false negatives. I did post a lag punt a couple times where I never touch the car ahead (and thus don't get a penalty) yet from their movements it's obvious they got punted by my car on their side.

It did not used to be that way. Before penalty time was made visible each client would determine penalties all by themselves with the idea that you are responsible for what happens on your screen. This led to situations where your client would assign penalties to other cars (red penalty sign) yet after they finish they would not have a red dot at all. Plus you were penalized for other cars lagging into you. This was fixed when the actual penalty time was introduce above each player. Now the clients involved compare their penalty assessment, and when one says, nothing happened here, there is no penalty. It seems penalty times are updated for the cars that are in visual range since you always see the penalty time flashing when you approach a new car with a penalty, as if they just got it. That was likely added since people were shaving off penalties here and there and with lag your client could not accurately keep track of how everyone was losing their penalties around you.

Besides lag, pushing someone off below the 'bump' threshold also does not trigger a penalty. The contact has to register as a definite bump on both clients or nothing happens. The force needed to register as a bump seems to depend on DR/SR. Low DR also ghosts sooner sometimes allowing them to overtake right through others where otherwise there would have been an accident.

Off is also not always clear. You can bump and spin a car around, yet as long as they keep a wheel (or two) inside whatever the track limits are at that point, no penalty. For example the chicane at Suzuka, as long as the other car stays on the green bit, no penalty. If you punt them hard enough to hit the back wall, penalty.

Anyway, if you have any false negatives, let's analyze :) I'm not racing much this week and although I have plenty old examples, who knows what subtle changes there have been under the hood. Next week's race C will probably provide plenty fresh examples to analyze :)
 
yeah, somehow youtube messed up the cut of the warm up. I try to re upload.
I did not brake check at any time, I think I get a SR- for what happened before when i missed the exit of the turn.

here is the video. .

time point 2:00 ; 3:15 ; 7:12


Oh boy, what a mess. Isn't Europe supposed to be the shining beacon of clean driving :cheers:

My educated guess (You are B/A if I see that correctly)
1:56 You get a push from behind from nr 16 (B/C driver), I think that's what triggered the SR Down at 2:01
This is interesting as you get bumped from behind at 1:52 as well (B/B driver), yet here it apparently ruled the other car was at fault.
One difference is that you benefited (gained speed) from the second bump, yet lost speed from the first.

3:15, B/C dude's dive clips you. Perhaps since you benefited again you got SR Down? You escaped a time penalty there, he almost went off with his terrible driving.

7:12 B/S driver bumps you from behind. The emerging pattern here is, you gain a bit of speed, benefited from the push, thus SR Down?
Perhaps that's why draft bumps always result in SR Down for the car ahead while in corners and braking zones it becomes a bit murky who 'benefits' It does fit the theme of car that stays on road gets the penalty.

Getting out of SR.B can be hell. Your best bet is to simply drive a lap behind as an untouchable ghost :/
 
Just started with Race B and first time Autopolis on my US account.

It takes some time getting used to. So many corners to learn. It is however a really fun track.

Giving the NSX a go and have 53 flat qualifying time. A 52.5 shouldn't be too hard to get. It ain't no 4C that's for sure. It's too heavy with the current BOP.

Are most people doing C this week? The lobbies i've been in have too much of a DR range,
 
Did two back-to-back C races. Here's what happened:

Race 1- Running the new NSX, BB 2, Racing Medium. Started on pole, but the competition was fierce. There were at least 3 of us (including me) that were battling for first place. My racing style is fantastic: I can nail the turns and keep away from 2nd and 3rd place. The problem? That style DESTROYS my tires. Having to slow down more and more by the end, 2nd place catches up, but I was able to defend 2nd place as we cross the line. Great race, super clean.

Race 2: Same setting, Racing Hard. I was super curious, so I ran it. Due to the tire and fuel settings, it can be no-stopped. However, this is the masochist's option. After first place went to the pit stop, I went from 5th to 2nd (1st place pitted the next lap), but I ended being 13 seconds ahead of 2nd place.

However, I ran into the same problem: my Racing Hard tires, specifically the left side, were beyond DEAD. D-E-D, DEAD. By the final lap, 2nd and 3rd were on my tail. 2nd place manages to squeeze by, and on the second to last turn, my left tires give in and I spin out. 3rd place passes me. I SOMEHOW did not lose anymore positions, so I finished in 3rd. Clean racing overall, I appreciate it.

Soooo yeah. If I go back to race C, I'll be sticking to Racing Medium Tires.
 
Bit torn on how I should be taking the final corner for Race A.

I've been using the r34 with BB 0 (always forget to change it, so will try some different settings tonight)
So far my best time is a 58.5, with an optimum of 58.1.
But to get that best lap, I downshifted to 2nd for the final turn and used the extra engine braking to stay tight right up to the line (shorter distance than taking normal racing line).

Would I be better off staying in 3rd and trying to get better lines, braking and acceleration points etc, or should I stick with 2nd gear?
 
Bit torn on how I should be taking the final corner for Race A.

I've been using the r34 with BB 0 (always forget to change it, so will try some different settings tonight)
So far my best time is a 58.5, with an optimum of 58.1.
But to get that best lap, I downshifted to 2nd for the final turn and used the extra engine braking to stay tight right up to the line (shorter distance than taking normal racing line).

Would I be better off staying in 3rd and trying to get better lines, braking and acceleration points etc, or should I stick with 2nd gear?
Stay in 3rd so the shift time doesn’t slow you down.
 
Had my best race ever last night in race B, Gr 4 @ (insert name of newest track here... :lol: ).
Surprised the hell outta myself by taking POLE!! Looked up and down the entry list twice before I realized it. :rolleyes: :lol:
it was only a low 55, but everyone else was a little off the pace in comparison...second was a high 55.
First 2 laps I held out second, who made several attempts to dive inside at corners, no "dive bombing" though, so everyone was well behaved.
Poor guy eventually come undone by himself and tangled with third and then fourth...
Finished with a near 10 second gap so I was pretty pleased. :)
First time ever starting in pole, AND holding the lead all the way. 👍
 
[QUOTE="GT5Power, post: Thanks! Skyline R32 using BB +3. :)


Are you referral this topic on Race A? Reason I asked is Race A... not allow changing BB. use default 0.
 
I'd say track learnt :) 4C and this track is a blast!!!! So fun! Drive it like you stole it.

Also had some good battles with TTG_Zennit but he's much more consistent than me.

I screwed up 1 corner on the uphill just before the bridge / gantry too... i think i could of been sub 51.5

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That's funny. I've seen a lot of posts recently where it looks like there's a lot of adapting needed to use a wheel?

I use DS4 and always just assumed a wheel would be quicker - surely it should be natural for us who drive everyday in real life.

But it looks like its not that straightforward as plug and play for better times.
 
That's funny. I've seen a lot of posts recently where it looks like there's a lot of adapting needed to use a wheel?

I use DS4 and always just assumed a wheel would be quicker - surely it should be natural for us who drive everyday in real life.

But it looks like its not that straightforward as plug and play for better times.
I think muscle memory plays a huge part at this. Using the flippers and braking with my left foot (what I would never do in my real life car) instead of L2 with my finger. Also the FFB plays a role to adapt where you need to find your preference of how mutch feedback you'd like and how heavy you would like your wheel to be when steering into a corner. All these factors don't play a role with the DS4.

I think that you can certainly be faster with a wheel especially with how mutch smoother you can go in and out of turns.
 
so no dailies for me for now untill I can get to my DS4 times...

I think that's my problem where I'm not as dedicated since I'd still prefer to race on dailies. I'm around 2.5 seconds slower compared to my controller times but I've such a blast using a wheel.

A small dilemma although I'm gradually practicing with it in small steps so hopefully, at some point, I'll match or better my controller times. I guess I'm content this way.
 
That's funny. I've seen a lot of posts recently where it looks like there's a lot of adapting needed to use a wheel?

I use DS4 and always just assumed a wheel would be quicker - surely it should be natural for us who drive everyday in real life.

But it looks like its not that straightforward as plug and play for better times.
I played Forza with a controller for 18 months before starting playing GT Sport. I used a controller for the first week of playing GT Sport, while I waited for my Drive Hub to arrive. When I switched to the wheel, I was immediately significantly faster for that week's Tokyo race with the Gr.4 4C, but didn't beat my controller time for Gr.2 Suzuka, though I got within a tenth or two, I think. On the whole I'd say the controller and wheel are well matched in GT Sport, but for cars with a tendency to easily oversteer like the 4C, the wheel seems to be helpful. Modulation of brake and throttle can be easier with the controller, to some extent, and it's faster to hit 100% braking with the controller vs pedals. I've actually ditched the Fanatec load cell brake and reverted to their standard travel-based brake pedal, so that I can reach 100% braking faster. I took an entire second off my time for the Gr.1 Monza credit grind race when I made that change.

I've also played F1 2017 and Project Cars 2 with a controller before changing to the wheel, and in both cases I was quickly producing faster times with the wheel. The only games where this hasn't been the case for me are Forza Motorsport 7 and Horizon 4 where I can't get anywhere near my controller times with some cars. There was one rivals event where I spent ages trying to control a Lambo with the wheel. You only had to turn the wheel about 5 degrees and touch the brakes with like 0.1kg of force to send the thing into oversteer, it was a nightmare to drive with the wheel. After an hour of frustration, I got the controller out and my first flying lap was 10 seconds faster than my best wheel time. That made me just completely give up trying to use a wheel with Forza.
 
I think that's my problem where I'm not as dedicated since I'd still prefer to race on dailies. I'm around 2.5 seconds slower compared to my controller times but I've such a blast using a wheel.

A small dilemma although I'm gradually practicing with it in small steps so hopefully, at some point, I'll match or better my controller times. I guess I'm content this way.
I get your point. I would also like to go on with the dalies but with the pace I have now I will most certainly mess up my DR/SR and will be in the way for allot of racers.
 
I've actually ditched the Fanatec load cell brake and reverted to their standard travel-based brake pedal, so that I can reach 100% braking faster.

Sounds like you have the CSL Elite LC pedal set. I had the same concern with how long it could take to reach 100% braking with the load cell, but only when using anything but the hardest bushings.

When using the softer bushings the travel would be close to that of a potentiometer brake, but with resistance, making it feel like it took longer to work my way to 100% braking. It also lacked the feeling of a good brake, like it needed new brake pads and be serviced.

Using the hardest bushings, was the solution for me. Brakes feel tight and responsive. Theres only maybe 3/4" travel making it easy and quick to achieve 100% braking, probably quicker than using the regular potentiometer based brake. And you get the benefit of improved modulation due to the larger range of pressure required (1 to 90lbs ?) With the hardest bushings...the main reason everyone probably wants a loadcell brake.

You can also reduce the pressure required to achieve 100% braking and that would probably help reduce the time to 100% as well. The adjustment can be made on the csl wheel rim, or on a pc using the fanatec software if you are using a non fanatec wheelbase.

Hope that helps someone enjoy their loadcell brake and get better performance from it.
 
Got my Sr back to 99 on my GTP account before I was put in a top race, yes was not happening from the back when at least four of the drivers are faster than me. Barely made an impression as I was held up all race, also got a few Sr- for things that were not my fault dropping it down again a touch. One is just brilliant, I'll make a video of it, it's perfect to show one area where this system just does not work. ;)

Also I'm still seeing cars cutting corners without penalty but I do it and a penalty is instant. A level playing field with regards to penalties can't come soon enough.
 
Aren't you in California? That's where I am, and my Comcast has a good, dependable connection. I've seen many mentions of your poor connection. My wifi is sporatic, but my PS4 is hard-wired and reliable.

Do most of you guys have your PS4’s hardwired? Is that better? I’m just on wifi but my router is only 15 feet away so I could get a cable easy enough if it’s better that way.
 
Do most of you guys all have your PS4’s hardwired? Is that better? I’m just on wifi but my router is only 15 feet away so I could get a cable easy enough if it’s better that way.
I see significant improvement when using a cable. Especially because I have the OG PS4 so it can only connect to an 2.4ghz wifi network. If I am correct the Slim and the Pro can connect to 5.0ghz what is allot beter. But the best is hardwired.
 
Do most of you guys have your PS4’s hardwired? Is that better? I’m just on wifi but my router is only 15 feet away so I could get a cable easy enough if it’s better that way.

It's better, no chance of any interference then. You should always hardwire where possible.
 
I played Forza with a controller for 18 months before starting playing GT Sport. I used a controller for the first week of playing GT Sport, while I waited for my Drive Hub to arrive. When I switched to the wheel, I was immediately significantly faster for that week's Tokyo race with the Gr.4 4C, but didn't beat my controller time for Gr.2 Suzuka, though I got within a tenth or two, I think. On the whole I'd say the controller and wheel are well matched in GT Sport, but for cars with a tendency to easily oversteer like the 4C, the wheel seems to be helpful. Modulation of brake and throttle can be easier with the controller, to some extent, and it's faster to hit 100% braking with the controller vs pedals. I've actually ditched the Fanatec load cell brake and reverted to their standard travel-based brake pedal, so that I can reach 100% braking faster. I took an entire second off my time for the Gr.1 Monza credit grind race when I made that change.

I've also played F1 2017 and Project Cars 2 with a controller before changing to the wheel, and in both cases I was quickly producing faster times with the wheel. The only games where this hasn't been the case for me are Forza Motorsport 7 and Horizon 4 where I can't get anywhere near my controller times with some cars. There was one rivals event where I spent ages trying to control a Lambo with the wheel. You only had to turn the wheel about 5 degrees and touch the brakes with like 0.1kg of force to send the thing into oversteer, it was a nightmare to drive with the wheel. After an hour of frustration, I got the controller out and my first flying lap was 10 seconds faster than my best wheel time. That made me just completely give up trying to use a wheel with Forza.
I played Forza 6 for a while (on XBOX1) with a wheel and it was very frustrating. I couldn't get anywhere near the top times except on the ovals. After discussing the matter on the forums I came to realise that this game was pretty much designed to be played on the controller. At least, that was the general consent. For me, it's not even an option to play a racing game with a controller so I switch to GTS.

It's still a learning process to adapt to the "driving style" of the game versus real life but I very recently went for the gteye brake mod and I saw right away that I could be much more consistent with my braking after some practise time.

Going fast is one thing but braking as late as possible and carrying as much speed as possible through the corners is, for me anyway, the biggest challenge of this game. I've never played with a controller so I couldn't speak about the differences but I suppose someone has to take the time to adapt and re learn the feel of braking efficiently.
 
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