Different grade of tires: your experiences and opinions

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A lot of people talk about realism and tire compounds but don't even realize that when Nissan or whoever go out to try to set record times around the ring, they are not using oem tires, they are using racing tires for those low 7 and sub 7 minute lap times. But then you get on here and people act like you should only run a car like that on sports tires. The tire discussion is usually just elitists or traditionalists mocking people that don't care. Race what you want to race.
 
A lot of people talk about realism and tire compounds but don't even realize that when Nissan or whoever go out to try to set record times around the ring, they are not using oem tires, they are using racing tires for those low 7 and sub 7 minute lap times. But then you get on here and people act like you should only run a car like that on sports tires. The tire discussion is usually just elitists or traditionalists mocking people that don't care. Race what you want to race.
Correct on the Nurburgring tire part. Most use semi-slicks not even rated for the rain to set those times. But the factory tires you'd get with your LFA is much closer to CM than SM.
 
I think that many drivers of amateurish series or even nation or european drive at around 80% or less depending on how big their pockets are lol

but putting this aside, what i was trying to highlight is that most cars on hard compounds have a very overly sliding, snappy and killing feel, and very often do not leave any chance of recovery where instead in real life the situation could be caught back

Yeh 80% is probably more accurate!
I probably shouldn't try and comment on real life situations, I don't even drive :dunce:
 
In real life, the speed any given car can take a corner at is limited by the available grip of the tyres plus the mechanical grip of the car, which is measured in Lateral G's. Therefore, to understand what tyres in a GT game should be on a certain car to produce the same (or similar results), we'd have to find out what the Lateral G was for each tyre compound on each vehicle is. Unfortunately there is no skidpad in GT, nor any information as to the lateral g produced by any given car/tyre combo.

@calan_svc did some very interesting research on this in GT5 & produced a very rough guide, as many people will remember (GT5 thread here). It would be interesting if something similar was done in GT6.

Another thing; when I first fired up GT6 I noticed that to get the same lap times in the same cars, I had to drop 1 tire level. So to get the same lap time on Tsukuba in my stock Roadster 2007 in GT6 as in GT5, I had to switch from Comfort Soft Tyres to Comfort Medium. And, to get the same lap time in my F430 Suderia on Monza, I had to drop from Sports Hard to Comfort Soft.

Conclusion: The grip of tyres in GT games is often times much more than you would get in real life, regardless of what tyre type you would use. The grip levels also change from game to game as well. You can get as technical as you want, if you want a real life experience; or you could just put on whatever tyres suit you, the ones you personally feel work for you, & have fun.
 
DFGT with modded pedals. No aids especially ABS. No tuning except brake balance.

All street cars with Comfort Tires. Mostly CH or CM. I love that feel. You have to really be aware of all track undulations and bumps...like in real life. I wish there were a harder grade for Vintage. Driven many older rides especially 60's-70's American muscle. Those cars turn in too well even with CH.

Older race cars should have Sports Tires but I run ABS 0 and they lock up way too easy. I wish that aspect of GT hadn't changed from GT5.

Really, watch some onboard videos of street cars on a race track. Drivers are sawing away like mad if they're close to the limit. My time on track/autocross has been like that and I'm not a hotshoe by any means. Sometimes the wheel seems disconnected. That's what I want to feel in GT6.

After reading Amar's post about the F40 on CH and seeing an onboard of that car at Fuji, I took mine for a run there. Awesome. Loved it. Last night I ran the 84 GTO on CM at Bathurst for a couple hours. It makes that car drive like what I've read about it. A beast.

Granted, I've only been running for fun offline in GT6. I ran mostly online in Leagues and Clubs online in GT5 so it was more fun to have grippier tires. Not everyone could spend hours practicing so Race or Sports tires were a better choice.
 
@crowhop @smskeeter23 what setup you have guys?

in my experience CH tires on anything beside a FIAT Panda is silly :D
DFGT

It is slow, boring and tedious lapping the Ring on CH tires in any car. Even in a 400pp BRZ on CH tires with no aides can be tricky if you go full throttle at the wrong time...just as real life. It is rewarding to those who dare make themselves do it cleanly. Driving a car constantly as the edge of grip is the "secret" to fast.

This is exactly like me, @NCRthree...
DFGT with modded pedals. No aids especially ABS. No tuning except brake balance.
 
A lot of people talk about realism and tire compounds but don't even realize that when Nissan or whoever go out to try to set record times around the ring, they are not using oem tires, they are using racing tires for those low 7 and sub 7 minute lap times. But then you get on here and people act like you should only run a car like that on sports tires. The tire discussion is usually just elitists or traditionalists mocking people that don't care. Race what you want to race.

So how do you explaind that in GT5 you had to do the lap around Nurb with Sport Hards to get the trophy?
 
So how do you explain that in GT5 you had to do the lap around Nurb with Sport Hards to get the trophy?
Sports Hard tires in GT5 weren't accurate in that they provided too much grip. That lap time wasn't really all that difficult. It was mostly surviving and laying down a clean lap.
 
Ever tried a fully tuned Diablo GT2 on RS tyres? The thing's crazy. I normally use RS tyres simply because I enjoy going fast. That Diablo, though, I swear it's easier to handle on SS tyres... (I'm on DS3)

But I agree though - I fail to see why there's so much stigma for RS tyres because they're 'easier'... they're not. Try fully tuning a Ford GT40 Mk I, Ferrari GTO or F40, either Diablo, Huayra, Ford GT or the Evora. They're all leaps and bounds easier to drive on SS tyres, let alone tune.
Random question on this post, are your experiences with all of those cars (excluding the GTO) pre-1.09 or post-1.09? The reason being that PD have tweaked the MR physics quite drastically...
 
Random question on this post, are your experiences with all of those cars (excluding the GTO) pre-1.09 or post-1.09? The reason being that PD have tweaked the MR physics quite drastically...
Both, oddly.
 
I see there are quite a lot of different prices for CH tyres depending on car. I haven't noticed different graphics, but I didn't shoot a lot of wheels.
 
I'm not going to get in to this debate because everybody has their own opinion on what tire to use and so on, and besides have you ever tried to go in a racing soft room (and mostly these rooms be no real settings no damage and no tire wear/fuel) and tell them to use comfort or sport tires or go into a comfort tire room and tell them to unrestrict the tires so they can use those precious racing soft, it gets ugly real quick let me tell you.

So I will keep this short, for the most realistic experience you must use a tire that you use everyday on the street, a tire that comes with the car from the showroom. That tire is comfort tires, weather it's ch, cm or cs. Comfort hards for anything less than 300hp. Comfort mediums for anything up to 500hp. Now beyond that is supercar territory and they use comfort soft to get a realistic drive, feel and lap time.

Cars that come with sport hards should be downgraded to comfort soft and cars that come with comfort soft should be downgraded to mediums or hards. Now there are some exceptions, the LFA nurburgring package for example, in real life they ran a 7:14, I tried this on a stock one on comfort soft and could not replicate that time, I was running in the 7:20s, put sport hards on and ran a 7:14s consistently. So sport hards would be more like the real life tire for that car. Yes you have to compare lap times in some cases, run a stock car and if it can easily beat the real life time by several seconds then yes you need to downgrade to comforts.

There's also a such thing as upgrading your tires, people do this all the time in real life, whether its for the street or the track. If you want to go buy the the best tire out there because you like grip that's fine to, but not slicks, do sport softs for that that's why they are there. I'm just happy that I found some people that share my interest in stock cars on comforts tires to trackday and race with, or tuned cars on comfort or sport tires. Bottom line for me is comfort tires for almost all street cars and sport tires for some tuned high horsepower cars, but honestly it's fun with tuned cars on cs tires too. Bottom line is for me racing tires for racing cars, no streetcars, sport soft provides enough grip for just about anything. Comfort Tires is the way to go if you want a realistic drive, feel and lap time. And please turn on settings to real, real track edge, real slipstream, and tire wear ON.
 
I remeber hearing something about 3 differing models of each CH-RS depending on the age of the vehicle, newer cars would be grippier and older (60's & 70's) have less grip much like the old bias ply tires. Then a model of tire somewhere in the middle for our 80's and 90's cars. I don't have proof, it could have been lies. I just remember someone saying when they "broke" into the game's data they seen it.

Anyone up to challage with the data logger?

Cars that come with sport hards should be downgraded to comfort soft and cars that come with Comfort soft should be downgraded to mediums or hards. Now there are some exceptions, the LFA nurburgring package for example, in real life they ran a 7:14, I tried this on a stock one on comfort soft and could not replicate that time, I was running in the 7:20s, put sport hards on and ran a 7:14s consistently. So sport hards would be more like the real life tire for that car. Yes you have to compare lap times in some cases, run a stock car and if it can easily beat the real life time by several seconds then yes you need to downgrade to comforts.

2 parts: Though I agree on some, the 2003 Lightning has CS in game, came with sticky summer tires in real life. It's not a clear cut. I would agree most of the regular sedans should be downed by one or so to equal the real stock tires. The Lightning is probably an exception, this thing in real life can scare you with it's handling, it turns. In game on CS it srcubs and pushes.

Next, comparing lap times should only be done for entertainment purposes. Realizing that you are pushing harder in corners than they are, plus we have semi-broken physics, allowing for higher corner speeds and top speeds. Explain how a sock Honda Accord V6 in game can do 176 mph, when in real its more like 150 (est based on my Hyundai Sonata V6 that was capable of 145).

Sorry to make this a long winded post but I feel like my work trying to figure out what tires Kaz was using fits perfect.

We know he was working with Yokohama, so here is my guess, with the Tire Rack category next to it:

CH - Avid Ascend - Standard Touring
CM - Avid Envigor - High Performance All Season (most family sedans these days)
CS - S Drive - High Performance Summer (to match the Lightning tires)
SH - Advan Sport - Max Performance Summer (sync's with a 'Vette)
SM - Advan Neova - Extreme Performance Summer (stock Dunlop's on a GTR)
SS - Advan a048 - D.O.T. Apprv'd Track

I could be very wrong on these, but based on some of the cars stock tires, they make sense.
 
I think it's even a stretch to consider the game's CH options as regular every day tires we use in daily driving considering a real life set should last tens of thousands of miles. Granted, in the game we're pushing the grip limit to the max, but I doubt a set of CH's in GT would actually last that long. This reminds me to test this CH durability theory soon unless someone has run a set all the way down on normal tire wear setting (not fast).
 
I think it's even a stretch to consider the game's CH options as regular every day tires we use in daily driving considering a real life set should last tens of thousands of miles. Granted, in the game we're pushing the grip limit to the max, but I doubt a set of CH's in GT would actually last that long. This reminds me to test this CH durability theory soon unless someone has run a set all the way down on normal tire wear setting (not fast).

Once, I ran the Neon SRT 4 at Daytona, burning the 🤬 out of the fronts, they lasted about 50 laps, but were red most of the time, smoking like a chimney. But then I ran a smokless around stage x for 6 laps and they were still at 10's, tires never got to yellow, just a light shade of blue from running like 190 mph.

I suspect if you had the patience to drive normal speeds (65-80 mph) for a very long time, you may see the fronts go to a 9 with a FF. :crazy::lol:

💡 One test you could try is just a straight up burnout test. find a car that will burn the heck out of RS, remember the gear and revs you were burning the tires at, and how long it takes to melt them away. then change grades of tires, same gear, same revs (may take some throttle control) and time it yet again. its worth a shot.
 
I bounce around between compounds. Right now I'm trying to learn the Nurburgring better and using cars with less grip or handicapping cars by giving them less grip helps me to get a feel for what it takes to get a car through a corner just right with minimal loss in momentum. I race low PP cars too, and even though they're tuned to be tracked, I don't feel they should use the same compounds as Formula cars (yeah I know "stock" tire modelling is different regardless of compound, but a 63hp kei car tuned up to 90-100hp feels just fine on comfort soft and sport hard).
Agreed. That's probably 20 seconds per lap faster, or more, than a real M5 would be at Suzuka.
Only just caught this; what tire would you then consider more appropriate given the difference in lap time?
 
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Only just caught this; what tire would you then consider more appropriate given the difference in lap time?
Comfort Softs or Comfort Mediums probably. Lap times aren't always a good guage because in the game we can take cars to the absolute limits, something you'd probably never do in a street car on street tires, with no roll cage or other safety features. On a track that big, tires that are 3-4 seconds faster than known street car lap times would probably be about right.

This is a handy reference: Suzuka Laptimes Only a few drivers are listed but they have some credibility. Naoki Hattori is a Japanese F3 Champion and in his hands a Porsche 911 GT3 did a 2:32.99. Laurent Hurgon holds the Nurburgring Front Wheel Drive lap record I think we can safely say those lap times represent a pretty good pace in those cars but certainly not balls to the wall type of speed.
 
This thread just piqued my interest into getting to know each machine under Comfort Tyres.

I usually stick to SH tyres for all the streetcars I get my hands on, but now I'm more interested in testing Comfort tyres for a change.

PD should add a specific Factory tyre option for all the machines in the game so they can simulate the actual car's grip levels and performance better without having to guess which tyre works best on it.
 
I remeber hearing something about 3 differing models of each CH-RS depending on the age of the vehicle, newer cars would be grippier and older (60's & 70's) have less grip much like the old bias ply tires. Then a model of tire somewhere in the middle for our 80's and 90's cars. I don't have proof, it could have been lies. I just remember someone saying when they "broke" into the game's data they seen it.

Anyone up to challage with the data logger?



2 parts: Though I agree on some, the 2003 Lightning has CS in game, came with sticky summer tires in real life. It's not a clear cut. I would agree most of the regular sedans should be downed by one or so to equal the real stock tires. The Lightning is probably an exception, this thing in real life can scare you with it's handling, it turns. In game on CS it srcubs and pushes.

Next, comparing lap times should only be done for entertainment purposes. Realizing that you are pushing harder in corners than they are, plus we have semi-broken physics, allowing for higher corner speeds and top speeds. Explain how a sock Honda Accord V6 in game can do 176 mph, when in real its more like 150 (est based on my Hyundai Sonata V6 that was capable of 145).

Sorry to make this a long winded post but I feel like my work trying to figure out what tires Kaz was using fits perfect.

We know he was working with Yokohama, so here is my guess, with the Tire Rack category next to it:

CH - Avid Ascend - Standard Touring
CM - Avid Envigor - High Performance All Season (most family sedans these days)
CS - S Drive - High Performance Summer (to match the Lightning tires)
SH - Advan Sport - Max Performance Summer (sync's with a 'Vette)
SM - Advan Neova - Extreme Performance Summer (stock Dunlop's on a GTR)
SS - Advan a048 - D.O.T. Apprv'd Track

I could be very wrong on these, but based on some of the cars stock tires, they make sense.

Those tires are wrong :) Check my replicas from Best Motoring, most lap time done by pro driver like Tsuchiya-san, Nakaya-san etc driving cars with normal tires ( street tires ) can be replicated on comfort tires. F40 Best Motoring lap record = CS tire ( a bit too quick ), Tom's Advox Supra RZ = CM tire. Tuned cars like Top Fuel Civic Zero 1000 ( Turbo with over 370+PS ) = SM tire, Hosaka Tuning Factory R33 and R34 GTR = SM tire.
FEED RX7 Tsukuba Record Holder = SS tire ( bordering close to slick IRL, ADVAN A050 R Spec G/S ( soft ) Compound that lasts only 3 laps at Tsukuba - less than 3 minutes hot lap ). With the SS, the replica can still be quicker, I easily lap 3 tenths quicker than the best lap in real life at 57.511s at Tsukuba ( driven by Nobuteru Taniguchi )

A stock Nissan GTR with reduced power - using '07 model with similar power to real life to replicate Tsuchiya's lap record in 2009 can be done on CS tire and still can be quicker by a few tenths easily in GT6.

Most R comp semi slick are SM in GT6, and most sports/super cars stock tires are comfort soft or medium. My latest replica, Lexus IS F with replicated weight and power ( GT6 has them all wrong ), heavier and less power, can replicate real life lap record at Tsukuba on CM tire-beaten it during testing by almost half a second. 86GT/FR-S/BRZ uses CH tire to replicate real life stock tires, so generally most sub 200HP cars would be CH tires, some may need CM.

All of my current work in progress FIA GT4 cars replica uses SS tire to replicate real life qualifying times at European GT4 Cup ( silverstone GP used benchmark ) - similar aero, power and weight, gearing, yet most of them can lap a second or 2 quicker than real life on SS tire. Real life GT4 cars uses hard slick racing tires with minimal aero. There are some GT4 replicas that can go 3 seconds quicker at Silverstone GP, might need to drop down to SM tire.

GT6 tires are simply way too varied in grip level - based on cars and needs to be tested by replicating real life lap when comparing to real life, and even so, most of the time still quicker by a few tenths or seconds, then dropping another level might be necessary. I haven't found a single stock supercars that needs sports tires in GT6 to get into similar lap time territory to real life. An F40 replica I made with CS tire can easily lap 2 seconds quicker than best lap record IRL at Suzuka ( stock with factory tires - 2:25s ).
 
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Those tires are wrong :) Check my replicas from Best Motoring, most lap time done by pro driver like Tsuchiya-san, Nakaya-san etc driving cars with normal tires ( street tires ) can be replicated on comfort tires. F40 Best Motoring lap record = CS tire ( a bit too quick ), Tom's Advox Supra RZ = CM tire. Tuned cars like Top Fuel Civic Zero 1000 ( Turbo with over 370+PS ) = SM tire, Hosaka Tuning Factory R33 and R34 GTR = SM tire.
FEED RX7 Tsukuba Record Holder = SS tire ( bordering close to slick IRL, ADVAN A050 R Spec G/S ( soft ) Compound that lasts only 3 laps at Tsukuba - less than 3 minutes hot lap ). With the SS, the replica can still be quicker, I easily lap 3 tenths quicker than the best lap in real life at 57.511s at Tsukuba ( driven by Nobuteru Taniguchi )

A stock Nissan GTR with reduced power - using '07 model with similar power to real life to replicate Tsuchiya's lap record in 2009 can be done on CS tire and still can be quicker by a few tenths easily in GT6.

Most R comp semi slick are SM in GT6, and most sports/super cars stock tires are comfort soft or medium. My latest replica, Lexus IS F with replicated weight and power ( GT6 has them all wrong ), heavier and less power, can replicate real life lap record at Tsukuba on CM tire-beaten it during testing by almost half a second. 86GT/FR-S/BRZ uses CH tire to replicate real life stock tires, so generally most sub 200HP cars would be CH tires, some may need CM.

All of my current work in progress FIA GT4 cars replica uses SS tire to replicate real life qualifying times at European GT4 Cup ( silverstone GP used benchmark ) - similar aero, power and weight, gearing, yet most of them can lap a second or 2 quicker than real life on SS tire. Real life GT4 cars uses hard slick racing tires with minimal aero. There are some GT4 replicas that can go 3 seconds quicker at Silverstone GP, might need to drop down to SM tire.

GT6 tires are simply way too varied in grip level - based on cars and needs to be tested by replicating real life lap when comparing to real life, and even so, most of the time still quicker by a few tenths or seconds, then dropping another level might be necessary. I haven't found a single stock supercars that needs sports tires in GT6 to get into similar lap time territory to real life. An F40 replica I made with CS tire can easily lap 2 seconds quicker than best lap record IRL at Suzuka ( stock with factory tires - 2:25s ).

Very interesting! Do you share those setup and finding on a tpic of your won?

also are you going with heavy tuned cars or just use the stock options like the predefined race springs?
 
PD should add a specific Factory tyre option for all the machines in the game so they can simulate the actual car's grip levels and performance better without having to guess which tyre works best on it.

That's one of the best ideas I've ever heard!


👍
 
Here's my stock F40 on SH tires, over 10 seconds quicker than the real-life time at Suzuka.



When I get my PS3 fixed, I'll re-attempt on CS, but it'll probably need CM to be close to reality. Driving on CM or CH in this car would be a MAJOR pain.

SH just feels RIGHT for a car like this.
 
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Those tires are wrong :) Check my replicas from Best Motoring, most lap time done by pro driver like Tsuchiya-san, Nakaya-san etc driving cars with normal tires ( street tires ) can be replicated on comfort tires. F40 Best Motoring lap record = CS tire ( a bit too quick ), Tom's Advox Supra RZ = CM tire. Tuned cars like Top Fuel Civic Zero 1000 ( Turbo with over 370+PS ) = SM tire, Hosaka Tuning Factory R33 and R34 GTR = SM tire.
FEED RX7 Tsukuba Record Holder = SS tire ( bordering close to slick IRL, ADVAN A050 R Spec G/S ( soft ) Compound that lasts only 3 laps at Tsukuba - less than 3 minutes hot lap ). With the SS, the replica can still be quicker, I easily lap 3 tenths quicker than the best lap in real life at 57.511s at Tsukuba ( driven by Nobuteru Taniguchi )

A stock Nissan GTR with reduced power - using '07 model with similar power to real life to replicate Tsuchiya's lap record in 2009 can be done on CS tire and still can be quicker by a few tenths easily in GT6.

Most R comp semi slick are SM in GT6, and most sports/super cars stock tires are comfort soft or medium. My latest replica, Lexus IS F with replicated weight and power ( GT6 has them all wrong ), heavier and less power, can replicate real life lap record at Tsukuba on CM tire-beaten it during testing by almost half a second. 86GT/FR-S/BRZ uses CH tire to replicate real life stock tires, so generally most sub 200HP cars would be CH tires, some may need CM.

All of my current work in progress FIA GT4 cars replica uses SS tire to replicate real life qualifying times at European GT4 Cup ( silverstone GP used benchmark ) - similar aero, power and weight, gearing, yet most of them can lap a second or 2 quicker than real life on SS tire. Real life GT4 cars uses hard slick racing tires with minimal aero. There are some GT4 replicas that can go 3 seconds quicker at Silverstone GP, might need to drop down to SM tire.

GT6 tires are simply way too varied in grip level - based on cars and needs to be tested by replicating real life lap when comparing to real life, and even so, most of the time still quicker by a few tenths or seconds, then dropping another level might be necessary. I haven't found a single stock supercars that needs sports tires in GT6 to get into similar lap time territory to real life. An F40 replica I made with CS tire can easily lap 2 seconds quicker than best lap record IRL at Suzuka ( stock with factory tires - 2:25s ).
I'd expect in perfectly equal cars, us virtual drivers to be faster than real life counterparts, especially in street cars especially on faster, more complicated tracks so being 2 seconds quicker would be about right IMO.
VBR
That's one of the best ideas I've ever heard!
👍
Welcome to PCars:)...errrrrr...yeah Gran Turismo doesn't do that:grumpy:

Here's my stock F40 on SH tires, over 10 seconds quicker than the real-life time at Suzuka.


When I get my PS3 fixed, I'll re-attempt on CS, but it'll probably need CM to be close to reality. Driving on CM or CH in this car would be a MAJOR pain.

SH just feels RIGHT for a car like this.

I'm not sure if I'd describe it as "right", more like "relatively easy". I can't see driving some of these super cars and simply dropping the pedal in second gear and getting no wheelspin without TC being enabled. CS introduces a real need for throttle control and more precise entry and exit lines to carry speed through the corner, as I suspect is necessary in the real cars. SH makes it all a little too easy IMO and the lap times reflect that.
 
You make a good point. I'll have to revamp my tire strategy again for GT7. Maybe instead of SH on everything I'll do CS.

If the car comes with SM, SS, or RH, I'll use SH.
 
Very interesting! Do you share those setup and finding on a tpic of your won?

also are you going with heavy tuned cars or just use the stock options like the predefined race springs?

I made variety of replicas, from stock powered car with aftermarket coilover and LSD only, to Best Motoring feature cars ( tuned and stock ), usually I made corrections to weight, weight distribution, gearing, power figures to replicate as close as possible to real life. My F40 replicas are good example, there are 3 versions, US market, EU market and Auto Motorsports Mag review version, each built as close possible to real life, corrected weight, distribution, gearing, power, etc.

Feel free to visit my garage, there are plenty replicas to try, all of them comes with good infos under notes. My most recent is RJN NISMO 370Z GT4 Team PlayStation GT Academy replica on SS tire to replicate real life qualifying lap record at Silverstone GP during European GT4 Cup as driven by GT Academy champs. I received great praise and the car was tuned with similar camber setup to real life - built during 1.08 but works wonderfully on 1.09 without ANY CHANGES :p

Here's my stock F40 on SH tires, over 10 seconds quicker than the real-life time at Suzuka.



When I get my PS3 fixed, I'll re-attempt on CS, but it'll probably need CM to be close to reality. Driving on CM or CH in this car would be a MAJOR pain.

SH just feels RIGHT for a car like this.


My F40 replicas - both US and EU market can go 2 seconds quicker on CS, if you are interested, try my replicas, they are built with inputs from F40 owners forum member. I have also posted replays of my run at Tsukuba and Suzuka ( 1:03s at Tsukuba and 2:23s at Suzuka on CS and no aids ) :

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/difficult-car-ferrari-f40.310621/#post-9737877

Very useful for data logger use or just for pleasure viewing :)

@Johnnypenso : On most laps to replicate the real life lap time, I often drive rather conservatively - no GTA style hot lap, clean run, no ABS of course, so no insane braking at last moment - brake smoothly and steady, should be closer to what a real driver would do, and at times blip the throttle manually on downshift and lift off throttle on up shift to make the car run closer to real life pace, and still often quicker by a few tenths :D
 
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