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DiRT Rally Thread
- Thread starter The Stig Farmer
- 2,815 comments
- 227,594 views
- 3,624
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
For those still suffering the default FFB, this edited config file really helps (at least on the T500) to give full center feel, you get every bump and jump. Probably not very subtle but it allows better car control than the default muted center feel:
http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/ffb-tweak-no-void.104688/
It's absolutely worth using until Codemasters implements better.
http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/ffb-tweak-no-void.104688/
It's absolutely worth using until Codemasters implements better.
- 1,382
- Minnesota
- SQE_HAZ3L
Eventually gave up and just changed the graphics to the lowest setting to get low to mid 30s. Still a very pretty game even on those settings! The patch with my co-driver's voice is much appreciated as well 
- 1,486
- Jakarta
- FOUR16_
Has there been any other developer who wrote patch notes like this?
Also, dat inline 5 sound
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,260
- United States
So....just had a go. And I'm worried that I just wasted $30. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it's a great game and all, but if I can't even complete a stage with the Mini without being able to stay on the road, I'm just not going to enjoy it at all. Tried quite a few cars, and surprisingly found the Fiesta RS to be the easiest to drive. Started a career mode with the Fiat, and finished my very first stage 35 seconds down. Pretty much unplayable for me unless I can figure something out.
- 2,551
- somerset, England
- Willfred_1
I suspect like me you have little to no ffb so here's some tips as the games good fun .
1. Take your time, you won't be sebastion Loeb immediately. Try to learn form the screen how you car moves around on gravel and tarmac
2. Balance of the car , in rally the Balance of the car is essential, so remember to get more rotation apply the brake slightly or lift off, once you be the hang of it your feet will be constantly moving.
3.stick to the mini or lancia at first by doing you will learn tips 1&2 once you can get the car round then move on.
4. Don't push too hard I'm on partial throttle most times, except for corner exit and cornering phases,
5. Be patient there's a steep learning curve to start of with however once you have completed the learning curve it's fun.
6. If only won one stage in the 8 hours of play so far, the ai is quick.
If you have a copy of Richard burns rally I would recommend you do the rally school if not practise man over on sections of track.
- 6,518
- Lincoln
- Speedster502
Really enjoying this so far, but I must admit I'm struggling to get the wheel feeling "right". Anyone else using a DFGT on this? If so what degrees of rotation do you have it set to? Can't seem to find the right balance at the moment...
MagpieRacer
Premium
- 16,545
- Wymondham, Norfolk
- MagpieRacer
Using 640 on my T500 with saturation set to 50% in game.
- 3,624
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
I really recommend the FFB tweak I posted above. It gave me a lot more confidence in the car.
Adding to Willfred_1's comments: Serious rally games are all about two key things:
(1) go easy on the pedals, you rarely need full brake or full accelerator
(2) be aggressive, not passive. You should constantly be aiming the car for the next corner (often over the next bump). Any time you relax and react to the car instead of forcing it to go where you want is the moment you wrap yourself around a tree.
I also recommend changing the steering degrees of rotation in your wheel drivers to say 450 degrees. Then make sure you have 100% saturation, 0% deadzone and 0 linearity set in advanced wheel settings in game. And try for instance 30-50% vibration, 70-100% force and 0% wheel weight in game to give yourself an agile wheel. In rally you are constantly steering, so you don't want to be struggling against wheel damping the whole time.
(edit: Codemasters games in general can be run with 100% saturation and say 360-450 degrees rotation in drivers, or leave 900 degrees in drivers and reduce saturation to something like 45-55%. I think DiRT Rally works best with 100% saturation in game and reduced rotation in drivers, based on my limited testing so far)
Adding to Willfred_1's comments: Serious rally games are all about two key things:
(1) go easy on the pedals, you rarely need full brake or full accelerator
(2) be aggressive, not passive. You should constantly be aiming the car for the next corner (often over the next bump). Any time you relax and react to the car instead of forcing it to go where you want is the moment you wrap yourself around a tree.
I also recommend changing the steering degrees of rotation in your wheel drivers to say 450 degrees. Then make sure you have 100% saturation, 0% deadzone and 0 linearity set in advanced wheel settings in game. And try for instance 30-50% vibration, 70-100% force and 0% wheel weight in game to give yourself an agile wheel. In rally you are constantly steering, so you don't want to be struggling against wheel damping the whole time.
(edit: Codemasters games in general can be run with 100% saturation and say 360-450 degrees rotation in drivers, or leave 900 degrees in drivers and reduce saturation to something like 45-55%. I think DiRT Rally works best with 100% saturation in game and reduced rotation in drivers, based on my limited testing so far)
MagpieRacer
Premium
- 16,545
- Wymondham, Norfolk
- MagpieRacer
The FWD cars aren't quite right yet. Very twitchy and unstable. Try a 4WD car for comparison.
- 33,155
- Hammerhead Garage
Damn, it looks good.
Now they just need to remake some of the original CMR and CMR2.0 stages - Wales, Indonesia, New Zealand and so on - and release it on consoles.
Now they just need to remake some of the original CMR and CMR2.0 stages - Wales, Indonesia, New Zealand and so on - and release it on consoles.
- 9,046
- United Kingdom
- neema_t
I came fourth in every stage in the '60s championship thing except for one of the last ones, because that was on Tarmac which feels like it has unrealistically high grip right now. I don't like the Mini much at all, it somehow feels heavy despite being, well, a Mini. I hope they don't consider the existing cars to be finished... The Stratos and Escort are amazing, though!
Anyway, Dirt is one of those racing games where you don't have to win, it's disheartening for sure to see your delta go from +3 seconds to +7, then you come off the road so it's up to +22 and then you finish +34 seconds off the leader, second place is only +0.700 off, third is +15 and fifth is right behind you but it's less of a game and more of a simulator so it stands to reason that it would be tough to win. I just love driving (some of) the cars.
Anyway, Dirt is one of those racing games where you don't have to win, it's disheartening for sure to see your delta go from +3 seconds to +7, then you come off the road so it's up to +22 and then you finish +34 seconds off the leader, second place is only +0.700 off, third is +15 and fifth is right behind you but it's less of a game and more of a simulator so it stands to reason that it would be tough to win. I just love driving (some of) the cars.
- 1,737
- Massachusetts
- Ettick_
Use a lower wheel lock than 900 if you aren't already. I use 300 personally. It makes the cars much easier to drive.
- 1,019
- Germantown WI
- FuzzyFassbender
- FuzzyFassbender
Did I miss it, are you using a wheel or gamepad?
- 33,155
- Hammerhead Garage
Repeated play ensures success. You have only wasted your money if you pick up a game and immediately win everything. There has to be some incentive to keep going and improving over time, but not even Sebastian Loeb won from the get-go - he used to be a tarmac specialist, the rally equivalent of a road course ringer, who Citroën used to stick in the Xsara when it was a kit car and enter him in the Tour de Corse.
- 2,551
- somerset, England
- Willfred_1
It takes time to get used to it but its rewarding.
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,260
- United States
How?
G27
You would think a GT Academy finalist could at least keep the car on the road.
What's everyone using for ABS settings? I think I put mine on 3 or 4, but I also find myself coming up to a corner, hitting the brakes and just understeering right off the road.
- 2,726
- England
- ECGadget
- Eh???
Question: How did you get these pictures? I am looking to try and get a nice one for my thumbnails for Youtube! Many thanks in advance!
Go to the Logitech Gaming Software, Global Profile Settings, and drop wheel rotation down to about 450, I think that would work quite well. I have it at 600 and it isn't ideal so I am going to try 450 too. ABS wise I have it on 1 but I am going to switch it off, I don't think ABS works well on rally at all.
- 2,551
- somerset, England
- Willfred_1
Ibonibo
Premium
- 5,440
- Luxemburg
- Already paying my Isp 4 Access
Gravel... hitting the brakes full on on gravel, this will happen
Apart from the rotation reducing, I really recommand everyone to go into vehicule setup and fine tune it there. Especially the diff and brake bias, but also suspension will make a huge difference.
- 2,726
- England
- ECGadget
- Eh???
I meant those camera angles? All I managed to get was an in car view... :/
. (Watched your video. Multitasking is difficult CodeRedR51
Premium
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mister dog
(Banned)
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- misterdog
- misterdog7
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- skazz-race
- skazzracer
With all Codemasters games you can run 900 degrees in profiler and use say 50% saturation for the steering axis in game. Leave all deadzones on 0% and set steering linearity to 0 and it works pretty well.
You can also muck around with linearity (although it's not easy to get a good feel like that).
For DiRT Rally, the stock FFB works best with 100% linearity and low degrees of rotation in driver. With changed FFB I just left things like that and like the result. I might try swapping back to 900 degrees and 50-55% saturation later though, see how it feels.
P.S. I found the following in game settings work well:
Wheel / Vibration / Strength / Weight
T500 / 30% / 60% / 0%
T300 / 50% / 100% / 0%
I actually prefer the T500 in DiRT Rally, which is a very rare thing....
