Down Shift Bug (possible fix)PS4 

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Sadly I also encountered at high speed braking in the Escorts at Zandvoort since they have no ABS and also had several missed downshifts. So I can only assume it has to do with 100% braking?

Do you know if you had lock the wheels at all, whilst trying to shift?
 
They were right before turning when I hit too hard coming off the long straight. 3rd wouldn't pop into 2nd in the Escorts.

As long as you kept it off 100% braking the gears would shift.
 
They were right before turning when I hit too hard coming off the long straight. 3rd wouldn't pop into 2nd in the Escorts.

As long as you kept it off 100% braking the gears would shift.

Ok, thanks. What about the assist settings, what was on/off etc, if you recall?
 
Everything is always off. Factory ABS and TCS. Only tyre wear, tyre blankets and fuel consumption was on. All pedals are always tested at the X start screen and pits.
 
Everything is always off. Factory ABS and TCS. Only tyre wear, tyre blankets and fuel consumption was on. All pedals are always tested at the X start screen and pits.

Sorry, I should have also asked about the Autoblip & clutch settings
 
Can you provide a video showing the HUD so it doesn't get obscured by the wheel/hands in cockpit? Because to me it appears to be behaving normally and I can't say I have had any issues with DSP in my short time with the game.


I didn't save them, my PS4 is almost maxed out at the moment.

If it is user error or game error it is odd that on one 3rd to 2nd shift it will downshift at 56 mph and another it will not downshift at 46 mph. Next time it happens I will keep and post the replay.
 
Alright. As I said earlier today, I don't seem to experience the issue as often as others do. That said...


I've just jumped back and forth between PS4 and PC, driving on my T300/T3PA Pro (+conical mod) a stock Cayman GT4 Clubsport at Monza (because of all the hard braking to do).

At first I thought I was onto something but unconsciously I think I was being harder on the PS4, by trying to downshift unfairly early.

After a few switches and burning in my eyes the shape of a rev needle, which means making sure I was giving equal opportunities to both Miss Ps4 and Mr PC, I'm going to put it like this: with my equipment, my settings and, I guess, my driving (although I firmly believe there aren't that many ways to bash as hard as possible a brake pedal), I can't really tell of a major difference between both platforms. They both seem to only accept downshifts if the lower gear is going to be c. 6200rpm or lower. Edit: at about 6200rpm, and a bit less when downshifting to 2nd because the gear is longer.

MAYBE the PS4 takes a bit longer to register a 2nd downshift after a failed one, but as far as I can tell, the first failed one always happened because of the DSP.

Please, anyone, have a go on PS4 with the same car/track combination. After all, we don't have the same equipment and perhaps I picked a bad example.

My verdict: inconclusive.

Disclaimer: that verdict is based on my own observations and as everyone knows, one person is not a crowd and all of this is oh so subjective.


Sorry for not being able to be more helpful for now. If you have better car/track combos for me to try against, go ahead. I too want to get to the bottom of this.
 
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I took this video a few nights ago but just got around to uploading it here. I was doing whatever I could to force some DSP. Unfortunately in SD, but it's still possible to see the revs on the tach.

DSP was definitely legit in 5>4 and 4>3 shifts but a little less obvious for 3>2. I think if you're pretty close to the right RPM but still a little too high and DSP prevents, the second attempt is gonna feel way too late.

I'm still certain there is a bug with this though, because I can recall many times (not necessarily with this car) where it denied at least 2 shift requests before giving on the third, and they were not messy panicked downshifts by any means. For sure at least the second shift should have taken, if not the first.



Could you try something for me (when you have a chance)? Add just a slight delay between your downshifts and see if that makes any difference. Looked like you were pretty much going right from one gear to the next without any pause between shifts. Before Kunos added DSP that's how I shifted too but after it was introduced I had to learn to add a slight delay between downshifts (0.5-1 second) which gives the engine just a bit of time to grab and slow down. Watch my video again and you'll see the difference between my downshifts and yours, it's not a huge delay but it might be just enough to make a difference.

Just to be clear, I'm not trying to dismiss anything here or put any blame on you. It's just something I noticed in your video and I'm curious if it will make a difference because that's similar to how I used to downshift and it used to give me problems with DSP. If you watch at the very end of my video you'll see I tried to go down the gears real fast without any delay between shifts and it behaved almost exactly like what happened in your video (took me multiple attempts to get out of 4th gear), so I'm wondering if adding a slight delay to the downshifts may at least help.
 
I do agree with the theory that GT gave us bad habits which aren't helping us here.

Absolutely, in more ways than one (especially racecraft). Took me a long time to shake them off, and even now there's some that still creep their way back in and I have to slap my knuckles to stop doing it. Shifting was probably one of the hardest ones to retrain myself on but now it's pretty much second nature.
 
Could you try something for me (when you have a chance)? Add just a slight delay between your downshifts and see if that makes any difference. Looked like you were pretty much going right from one gear to the next without any pause between shifts. Before Kunos added DSP that's how I shifted too but after it was introduced I had to learn to add a slight delay between downshifts (0.5-1 second) which gives the engine just a bit of time to grab and slow down. Watch my video again and you'll see the difference between my downshifts and yours, it's not a huge delay but it might be just enough to make a difference.

Just to be clear, I'm not trying to dismiss anything here or put any blame on you. It's just something I noticed in your video and I'm curious if it will make a difference because that's similar to how I used to downshift and it used to give me problems with DSP. If you watch at the very end of my video you'll see I tried to go down the gears real fast without any delay between shifts and it behaved almost exactly like what happened in your video (took me multiple attempts to get out of 4th gear), so I'm wondering if adding a slight delay to the downshifts may at least help.
No doubt, I was shifting too fast. But I was doing so to try to induce downshift protection and therefore hopefully some unwarranted missed shifts.
 
I remember when DSP was first added to Assetto Corsa. I made a comment and Stefano called me an idiot. :lol: After some time had passed I realized I really did make a fairly dumb statement - I was only a few weeks into playing AC. I don't even remember exactly what it was...probably had something to do with a particular car or something. So yeah, I'm in that club. ;)
 
I find it strange that this thread has quieted down so abruptly pretty much since I posted my observations. :odd:
I haven't played much, but the truth is I have yet to encounter the problem since v1.11.

My plan is to, as soon as I come across a blatant example, to setup a camera and then keep playing while recording.
 
I find it strange that this thread has quieted down so abruptly pretty much since I posted my observations. :odd:


Well, i did give it a try.

With the Corvette C7R the downshifts fails a lot on PS4.

But i did put the ABS option from factory to no and the car accepts all downshifts with no problems and even hard braking.

Putting back the ABS from no to factory.. The downshift problem comes back.

Also i linked this tread in the support forum in Xbox section where @Lord Kunos did some replies.

Now i want to do some more testing with other cars and the ABS history.
 
I attempted to recreate the problem i had previously, but had no luck. I was going to report back over the weekend but forgot.

Also with the cars I've driven recently I have had no issues.
 
I have been doing a lot of driving online since my last post, mainly GT3s at RBR but not exclusively.

I had the Nissan GT-R GT3 play up on me tonight twice as an Issue 2) type problem. The first time the clutch was engaged about 10% and this was very hard to see because in bonnet view the shape of the bonnet covers the greyed section of the bar graph. I depressed the clutch a couple of times and the problem went away. The second time was while I was leading the race I was smashed off the track and the car was badly damaged. There was nothing I could do about the DS bug except retire. I have not struck the issue with the down shift problem with damage before. I will be interested to know if this is a "design feature" of the game when certain damage is present.

I have also found that now I have changed my driving technique I am rarely experiencing the DSP Issue 1) type problems

Also a note to Donnced the C7 R does not have ABS. And did you check to see if the clutch was activated slightly?
 
I have been doing a lot of driving online since my last post, mainly GT3s at RBR but not exclusively.

I had the Nissan GT-R GT3 play up on me tonight twice as an Issue 2) type problem. The first time the clutch was engaged about 10% and this was very hard to see because in bonnet view the shape of the bonnet covers the greyed section of the bar graph. I depressed the clutch a couple of times and the problem went away. The second time was while I was leading the race I was smashed off the track and the car was badly damaged. There was nothing I could do about the DS bug except retire. I have not struck the issue with the down shift problem with damage before. I will be interested to know if this is a "design feature" of the game when certain damage is present.

I have also found that now I have changed my driving technique I am rarely experiencing the DSP Issue 1) type problems

Also a note to Donnced the C7 R does not have ABS. And did you check to see if the clutch was activated slightly?


Well, like i said... With the Corvette C7R (GT3)
The ABS in factory given me very obvious downshift misshifts.
With ABS i no.. The problem is gone.

Even a friend of mine tried the same thing with the C7R, and same result

We both play on PS4...i play with a thurstmaster T150RS an basic pedal set and he has a logitech G29...

I always play with autoclutch off and autoblip on.
He has the same configuration as me.
But don't have the shifter,so the clutch pedal he doesn't even touch it.

And i really did try it more than 1 time.

ABS on factory = problems
ABS off = OK

Quite strange... So would be great if someone more can try it out.
 
Well, like i said... With the Corvette C7R (GT3)
The ABS in factory given me very obvious downshift misshifts.
With ABS i no.. The problem is gone.

Pretty sure that car doesn't have ABS from the factory as it's a GTE/GT2 car and not a GT3.

I did a club race Saturday night with the Porsche 911 Cup at Barcelona GP and my DSP was engaging almost once a lap (sometimes more), which is odd because I rarely encounter DSP even in that car.
I was like..... :grumpy: :irked: :ouch: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
 
Forgetting not to hit the pedal 100% in the Cayman Clubsport GT4 again and lots of missed downshifts as ABS was firing away. If doing 80 and 90% braking while downshifting 2nd was screaming away if I went down too early.
 
Well, like i said... With the Corvette C7R (GT3)
The ABS in factory given me very obvious downshift misshifts.
With ABS i no.. The problem is gone.

Even a friend of mine tried the same thing with the C7R, and same result

We both play on PS4...i play with a thurstmaster T150RS an basic pedal set and he has a logitech G29...

I always play with autoclutch off and autoblip on.
He has the same configuration as me.
But don't have the shifter,so the clutch pedal he doesn't even touch it.

And i really did try it more than 1 time.

ABS on factory = problems
ABS off = OK

Quite strange... So would be great if someone more can try it out.


Mmmmmmm....... I use the same settings. Auto clutch OFF (I prefer to use my own clutch pedal) Auto blip ON and ABS/TCS always set to Factory. The difference is you have a two pedal set up and I have a three. Also you didn't mention if you checked the bar graphs to see if the clutch was slightly engaged. There only has to be the slightest bit of grey showing in the graph and I will get the problem.

I should add that when I experience this type 2) problem the issue is there every down change change until something major happens e.g the race finishes, I retire or I fix it by resetting the clutch pedal. So if other people are experiencing this exact same issue it should give you time to observe exactly what is happening.
 
Pretty sure that car doesn't have ABS from the factory as it's a GTE/GT2 car and not a GT3.

I did a club race Saturday night with the Porsche 911 Cup at Barcelona GP and my DSP was engaging almost once a lap (sometimes more), which is odd because I rarely encounter DSP even in that car.
I was like..... :grumpy: :irked: :ouch: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I just happened to have the 911 Cup car opened up because I've been studying the tires from different classes of cars. Here is a snippet from drivetrain.ini file where you'll find DSP parameters:

Code:
[DOWNSHIFT_PROTECTION]
ACTIVE=1
DEBUG=0                ; adds a line in the log for every missed downshift
OVERREV=300        ; How many RPM over the limiter the car is allowed to go
LOCK_N=0
300 RPM isn't a whole lot of wiggle room, but I'm sure realistic.
Code:
[ENGINE_DATA]
ALTITUDE_SENSITIVITY=0.1        ; sensitivity to altitude
INERTIA=0.107                    ; engine inertia
LIMITER=8500                    ; engine rev limiter. 0 no limiter
LIMITER_HZ=20
MINIMUM=900
You can see that there is a rev limiter installed for 8500RPM, so we now know that in the 911 Cup 8801RPM is a no-go on downshifts.
And as far as engine damage goes:
Code:
[DAMAGE]
RPM_THRESHOLD=9500            ; RPM at which the engine starts to take damage
RPM_DAMAGE_K=1            ; amount of damage per second per (rpm-threshold)
At 9500RPM the engine is not having a good time. You're french frying when you should have pizza'd.
 
Forgetting not to hit the pedal 100% in the Cayman Clubsport GT4 again and lots of missed downshifts as ABS was firing away. If doing 80 and 90% braking while downshifting 2nd was screaming away if I went down too early.
Indeed, I've seen it far less since doing a rubber bump-stop mod to my T300 pedals.

I just happened to have the 911 Cup car opened up because I've been studying the tires from different classes of cars. Here is a snippet from drivetrain.ini file where you'll find DSP parameters:
Interesting. Of course this would be resolved somewhat easily by making it an option along with auto clutch and blip etc, on/off/factory. If I want to blow my engine to bits, let me do it!
 
Will be interesting to see once I try out the T3PA Pro pedals. If not I'll get a JBodin load cell for the T3PA Pro... I need to find something to get rid of the 100 percent.
 
I hear ya Fredzy... This is just complete speculation, but I'm guessing their belief is, if the real car has it...it goes on the AC version of the car. Now, if they put DSP on the Yellowbird & F40 & Countach - cars that never had anything remotely close to DSP I would be sharpening my pitchfork immediately.
 
I hear ya Fredzy... This is just complete speculation, but I'm guessing their belief is, if the real car has it...it goes on the AC version of the car. Now, if they put DSP on the Yellowbird & F40 & Countach - cars that never had anything remotely close to DSP I would be sharpening my pitchfork immediately.

Of course both those cars when driven with a gear stick can be shifted at any speed any time ;-) I don't recall having driven them with paddles and noticed a problem (apart from rear wheel lock up but eh that's be expected). And who hasn't done a 5-2 shift when it was supposed to be a 5-4 shift ;-)

BTW I use the stick shift when driving for fun and paddles when racing.
 
I just happened to have the 911 Cup car opened up because I've been studying the tires from different classes of cars. Here is a snippet from drivetrain.ini file where you'll find DSP parameters:

Code:
[DOWNSHIFT_PROTECTION]
ACTIVE=1
DEBUG=0                ; adds a line in the log for every missed downshift
OVERREV=300        ; How many RPM over the limiter the car is allowed to go
LOCK_N=0
300 RPM isn't a whole lot of wiggle room, but I'm sure realistic.
Code:
[ENGINE_DATA]
ALTITUDE_SENSITIVITY=0.1        ; sensitivity to altitude
INERTIA=0.107                    ; engine inertia
LIMITER=8500                    ; engine rev limiter. 0 no limiter
LIMITER_HZ=20
MINIMUM=900
You can see that there is a rev limiter installed for 8500RPM, so we now know that in the 911 Cup 8801RPM is a no-go on downshifts.
And as far as engine damage goes:
Code:
[DAMAGE]
RPM_THRESHOLD=9500            ; RPM at which the engine starts to take damage
RPM_DAMAGE_K=1            ; amount of damage per second per (rpm-threshold)
At 9500RPM the engine is not having a good time. You're french frying when you should have pizza'd.

Interesting, seems like basic engine and braking protection function ( no wheel speed parameter-rear wheel lock during braking can allow overrev, throttle/accelerator % ? )

 
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I just happened to have the 911 Cup car opened up because I've been studying the tires from different classes of cars. Here is a snippet from drivetrain.ini file where you'll find DSP parameters:

Code:
[DOWNSHIFT_PROTECTION]
[/QUOTE]

Edit - Just fixed my typing

I have been thinking on this all day. The question is "do we know if the PS4 game has the identical parameters as PC?" When ported across from PC were there any discrepancies introduced in the programming?
 
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