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Discussion in 'Project CARS 1' started by Smoothherb, May 7, 2015.
How has the std CSR been working with this game?
Quite well, I was rather impressed to be honest, its a great unit,
Thanks for your reply. Why is there a problem with the GT2 and 3 with this game, is it firmware related?
Havn't played in a while, is there still a huge deadzone with the GT3?
@Mini Stiggy seems its well broken now..
Just tried it and it actually seems drivable on pCARS now. Deadzone feels like it's gone. The wheel does shake back and forth on straights, but I could get use to it.
@TDZdave - He was trying the wheel on the PS4 & DriveClub, which it's not compatible with. Most of the bugs with Fanatec wheels have been fixed in Project CARS since 3.0.
When I calibrated my wheel it showd 180 degrees on ps4. I set my sen setting on the wheel from 900 to 180 hey presto it works☺
I have an issue. When calibrating the SQ shifter, the gears are not picked correctly. There is some wobble in the shaft that causes the shifter to jump form 3 to 5 and 4 to 6th gear. I saw a video of a guy having the same problem.
In game: same thing, and switching to SQ does not seem to work !?
Guess I will have to return it to Fanatec... The shifter feels good though.
Pedals are awesome and the Porsche 918 RSR wheel...
At last, someone with the same setup as me!
Not sure about the jumping gears, but I can confirm that my shaft (err..) has a couple of degrees of twist due to something being worn deep in the internals. Functions fine though.
Also, one must assign gear up/down in settings if seq mode is to be used. This disables the paddles - unsure if the USB adapter is a way around this.
My SQ shifter is brand new. The shaft has no twist, but (too much ?) side play.
So (coming from T500RS) when I want to use SQ, paddles on the wheel are disabled ?
With the Thrustmaster I could use them both at the same time.
TM gave the possibility to scroll the menu's (PS4) with the wheel.
The Fanatec V2 does not let me do that. I have to use the controller. Don't really like that, since I have set it to shut off after 10' so I don't have to hear the race engineer through that thing...
If you don't want to hear the engineer, but don't want your controller off, turn the controller speaker down in the PS4's settings. Or, maybe there's an option in game to turn the engineer off, I don't know.
Yes, thanks. I don't mind the engineer, sometimes like his funny sayings, so I do not want to turn him off.
Just don't like the controller speaker...
Can you get the engineer audio to come out of another speaker? I also like some of the funny stuff he says. I pass an AI up the inside, who doesn't even notice I'm there (as usual) and turns right in on me, bending my steering, and the engineer comes on the radio and says "great pass" lol.
Well, when the controller shuts off, the sound comes via my front speaker.
I found a way to not use the controller, just use KB
But tested again, shifter is indeed faulty. Can't get the right gears most of the time...shame...
That's so stupid that you have to turn the controller off to switch the audio to a different speaker.
I would have liked to set it up like F1 2015, to get the engineer talking to me through my headset.
Well, all the problems with my Fanatec wheel went away with the 3.0 patch, but with 4.0 they're back! Pedals not working randomly, having to plug them out & back in several times to sort it out, & random FFB loss as well, having to turn wheel off then back on.
First (minor) issue with my CSW V2/Porsche 918 RSR today.
Starting a new season in LMP2, first race, practice.
Leaving the pits without FFB !?
Did two laps, hoping FFB would kick in, but no.
Disconnected and restarted the wheel, using the start button and everything back to normal...
At least we can actually do that now, before patch 3.0 if you tried to turn the wheel off then back on you'd get a crash back to PS4.
This happens often to me, too. Various car/track combos. I usually solve it by quitting the session, but the reconnect method is much better now that it doesn't crash the game.
Also, I found my old account... I'm imported_Orbit in the posts above...
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I couldn't find another one discussing PCARS 10.0 with my Fanatec wheel.
On my GT3 RS V2, the game is now finally playable, but I'm missing a lot of 'feeling' with the wheel. Also the wheel still has a tendency of going off center by 5-10 degrees. I can tell because every lap my wheel is not centered on the straight. Lap 1 it can be tilting to the left, lap 2 almost center, lap 3 it's slightly off the the right, etc.
Also I remember my G25 being much more 'alive'. I'm on PCARS 10.00 and the latest firmware of my GT3 RS V2.
I'm not using the Clubsport pedals, but my old G25 pedals. No shifter.
I this a common problem? Are there any solutions?
No idea about the centering issue, but if your wheel feels less "alive" than a G25, you need to adjust FFB. Plenty settings flying around on the forum, or just try yourself.
FFB adjusting is a real pain to find the settings you like, but once you do, it is among the best.
Check your Steering gain for a start, it can set itself to 5.0 instead of the recommended 1.0 and this can overpower your wheel.
Is your wheel only off centre in PCARS? You can manually re-centre the wheel yourself if not.
Try checking the centre in the Fanatec test thingy on your computer, I think it's called "Fanatec wheel property page" or something like that. The one that shows how much you're turning the wheel, the throttle, brake, and clutch meters, and has buttons you click to test the vibration and FFB motors. These Fanatec Porsche wheels can lose their centre from time to time, and especially as they get older, some do get pretty bad for it. Click on the FFB test, to make the FFB motor go mental, and while it's doing that, turn the wheel around, side to side, just randomly, to see if it loses it's centre. Could be the belt slipping or something if it is losing the centre when the FFB motor is fighting against you.
As Titzon Toast said, you can manually re-centre it yourself, but if it's losing it's centre quickly after resetting it, you might need to pull it apart to either replace the belt, or try to add some tension to it. Be careful if you try to add tension to the belt, a friend of mine modded his GT3RS V1 for higher belt tension and it literally snapped the column in half in the middle of an iRacing race lol.
Hello every one, couple days I am trying to connect my Fanatec GT2 v2 + v3 pedals to my PS4, but I dont find any info how to do it, maybe some one can share information How to connect my Fanatec to PS4 ?? I hope someone will help me, thank you !!!!
P.S. I heard that Fanatec do not support DriveClub VR, so what about if I buy that CronusMAX plus adapter maybe it Help me to play DriveClub VR on Fanatec.
I am realy excited to try Fanatec in VR
You need to connect the V3 pedals to the GT2 base. I don't think you can connect them to the console separately, though I could be wrong. I connect my CSP V1s to my CSR base with the PS2 cable, and connect the wheel to the console with the USB cable. The CSP V3s don't have a connection for a PS2 cable, they have an RJ12 connector instead, so you need an RJ12 to PS2 cable to connect it to the old wheel bases.
As for Driveclub: No, the Fanatec wheels don't work in DC, so they won't work in DCVR. Sony also doesn't allow Fanatec support in third party titles anymore either, so only older third party games that came out before September this year will work with the Fanatec wheels.
Here's a list of game that I know work with the Fanatec wheels:
-Sebastien Loeb Rally Evo
All racing titles newer than these, plus Driveclub, don't support Fanatec wheels on PS4.
As for the Cronus, don't waste your money. As far as I can tell, it's made and sold by people who essentially stole the software they use, and they cost way more than they're worth.
I use GIMX to make my CSR work in games like F1 2016, Assetto Corsa, and Driveclub. Here's their website: https://blog.gimx.fr/. All you need to buy is a couple of small things, roughly $20 worth, to make the adapter. You can do as I did, and ask someone who has already done it before to help you, because it can take a bit of fiddling around to get it working. But once you've got it set up, you'll be able to get your wheel working in all PS4 games, for a fraction of the cost of a CronusMAX.
Wow man, thanks for patient
But you see, pedals is connect with wheel base, so there all is ok. But when i connect my wheel with USB to PS4 there nothing happening like i didint do any thing, i try to seach in settings but nothing... Maybe I do something wrong... I dont understand :/
So if I do GIMX i can play DC in VR, I will do this imeadiately, thank you. Just one probblem first i need to connect my wheel
I got your PM mate, I'll help you through there
I just picked up this game. I dusted off the old Fanatec PWTS but I'm having a hard time getting it to work at all. It seems like the wheel is causing the game to freeze once the wheel is synced up. Does anyone have any advice for me? Do I need to update the firmware. Haven't done it in like 5 years. This wheel worked perfect last time I used it back in the PS3/360 days....
Also, updating to the latest firmware is always a good idea