Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Tuning

I posted in this thread a few months ago, you can improve the V2 pedals by keeping the stock liquid and replacing the spring with a 120lb progressive spring from Century Springs, it will make the brake really really nice, great feel at initial braking, heavier as you apply pressure, and full leg needed under full braking. It works fantastic.
 
No you didn't!! https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-clubsport-v2-pedals-are-now-perfect-brake-mod.264948/


Well, maybe you posted here as well.

Progressive spring seems the way to go though, since there's only positive force on return, and reportedly has great feel. I've not had a chance to extensively test out my newly purchased CST pedals, but the feel seems great with no shock involved. Certainly way beyond my CSP v1 pedals with shock added.

The aims need to be clear. Using clutch as an example: there's no use in implementing a degressive clutch at the expense of efficiency if the primary goal is speed. Some people prefer the v1 pedals for that very reason. I get that feel is also important for speed, but creating the right feel without a side effect that would require a workaround makes more sense to me. Then there's the fact that there's also a side effect to the workaround.
 
Hi RacerXX,

I'm trying to understand what this advantage you speak of might be.

I assume you are using a standard loadcell on your CSP2 pedals. You have a rebound which at first appearance seems to rebound much quicker due it appearing to act as a one way damper. However... and by your own admission, the delay in the rebound is still there it is just that instead of it being on the pedal it has simply been transfered to the dampers piston and you have merely created some unwanted play in the pedals damping during continued repeated brake pumping instead. :boggled:

...Or am I missing something really crucial here?

In a real car, the braking comes directly from the hydraulics of course. In a pedal rig like this one, the hydraulic bit is in *parallel* with the braking actuation coming from load sensor output, so this makes it more complicated to figure out. And you have to compromise a bit. I am more in the let's make the virtual car faster camp. Hence when I mod, I mostly want better lap times and car control characteristics. Some people are interested in immersion above all else but I place that at number two. Both sides are correct, there is not a correct answer.

In the simple mod I have shared:

A) For normal everyday braking: The apply gets the higher hydraulic feel but braking is not delayed due to leg force overwhelming all else. As you trail brake into a turn you slowly remove brake as steering is added and on turns like this the shock rebounds without a noticeable linkage gap.

B) For on a tight rope balancing the car with brake/gas/steering the brake goes on/off a few times quickly. In that case the gap *proves* that the brakes came off quicker than if the zero-rebound linkage was not in place. It comes off quicker than stock since that has some rebound action which I wanted to eliminate.
 
LeMans, I could have sworn I mentioned it in this thread but I've mentioned it now :)

The spring you see is the same exact spring that is in your CST pedals, I bought it from the same supplier, its the spring for the super hard brake option he used to have. Works great on the Clubsports.

I like the clutch, its the reason why I bought the Clubsports to begin with, the clutch is fantastic. Too me, going faster is great but I'm looking for the most realism as possible. If that sacrafices speed so be it, I'm not looking to be a pro iRacer. But in my opinion, if a car had a 4 speed, 5 speed, whatever, a clutch, in real life, then competitively I think all should use the same layout. Its not fair to have people driving manual cars with flappy paddles. Just my opinion of course, but I'm old school.
 
Yeah, I'm much the same. I'd rather "be there" and place fifth, than have a lesser suspension of disbelief and place first.

To that end, I'm working through a clutch mod that as far as I can tell is a unique method. I'll choose not to share the method yet, because there may be a very good reason why no-one else has used it. ie. That it might be a stupid idea that doesn't work, and I'll embarrass myself. If it does work, I'll be sure to come and blow my own trumpet, and share details.
 
Yeah, I'm much the same. I'd rather "be there" and place fifth, than have a lesser suspension of disbelief and place first.

To that end, I'm working through a clutch mod that as far as I can tell is a unique method. I'll choose not to share the method yet, because there may be a very good reason why no-one else has used it. ie. That it might be a stupid idea that doesn't work, and I'll embarrass myself. If it does work, I'll be sure to come and blow my own trumpet, and share details.

If you are careful you can do both speed and feel pretty well. Do you race in real life much? I think between us I place track speed at 1) followed by 2) immersion while you may have the two reversed. We are both right, I think the idea is to make you want to jump in there and have fun. I used to race about 4-6 times a month every single month and then indoor kart heavily over the cold seasons up North...and so come at it from that perspective. I broke my ribs many times karting and just manned up and raced anyway, could not stay away, luckily I can concentrate hard (thank you God) and so ignore the pain. I learned how to make car setup changes asap, drive very robotically at times (which helps when you are working on setup) and find lap speed from lap 1 after awhile. I teach quite a bit and love helping newer racers find time. The ones that listen to me do extremely well. So they get my 1) even if they at first can't understand why I want them to do something...don't worry trust me and you'll be smiling after the race.

I spent some time looking at the Fanatec pedals today and can see that my modified stock damper has some unused travel. Aha some potential to exploit. This means that I could work it harder via mounting it differently. As in a given amount of pedal travel leading to additional shock travel compared to stock. Which would raise the hydraulic feel further and yet speed should still be fine since the zero rebound characteristic would still be at...well truly zero. To do this I plan to make an adjustable linkage that would work that shock harder. Plus I have some 2x and 3x stiffer fluid than what I am already using. Since my shock does not leak at all after I changed o-rings there may be more I can do there.

Yes for sure work on your clutch mod. But be careful if you share of any forums I have come across the sim racing world is unfortunately..well...I'll just stop. Meanwhile the laws of physics don't care about politics one bit. This forum gets talked about elsewhere about being so...hmm better shut up.

On immersion you can start to get into ethical or moral concerns. I have been thinking about that a lot since I wound up making my wheel so much faster on track that stock. It can countersteer faster than you can do on real cars due to tire patch distortion versus tire RPM issues. It feels good and is more immersive since the wheel is blocking my intentions less. But if it allows doing this so well is that actually less immersive since a real car cannot do some of the corrections I can do now? There are actually at least 5-6 similar things going on in sim land that can make you think.

This guy makes a very fast correction to the left and is a talented pro racer. 175 wheel RPM. I can do over 100 more than this and I am not a kid.

Indy-Correct_zps541952b6.gif
 
RacerXX, I will agree 100% on keeping products with commercial potential secret or at least try and get some credit. Over the last 3 years I made several modifications to a rig of mine and shared all that data and man hours with the manufacturer. They implemented the changes on their rigs and never gave me credit, only discounts on their stuff. A little disappointing to be honest.
 
Yes for sure work on your clutch mod. But be careful if you share of any forums I have come across the sim racing world is unfortunately..well...I'll just stop. Meanwhile the laws of physics don't care about politics one bit. This forum gets talked about elsewhere about being so...hmm better shut up.

I'm a lateral thinker, but have much more ability in other areas. If I'm not trying to make money, I've got nothing to lose by sharing. Further, a lot my ideas come from misreading others' ideas as the idea that ultimately forms from the misreading. ie. I end up implementing a version of the idea I thought someone was explaining, but wasn't. Another reason to share, in my opinion.
 
Agree completely. Guess RXX had better quit while he's ahead. I'm sure through all his schooling and working life he's never gotten any help with his ideas or learned from anyone. Everything he does is his original idea apparently. Should we all be paying royalties to the family of the guy who first got a drink of water? Or put on a pair of pants? That MF'er is just absurd.

I've made plenty of mods to many different products. If the manufacturer of any of them saw and implemented my ideas without compensating me I'd...be proud. If they threw me a discount I'd be happy.

If your ideas are so good that you deserve to be paid for them then you should be selling product yourself. If not, don't whine if someone else takes some inspiration from your work. Where would we be in this world if we couldn't stand on each other's shoulders when we needed to?
 
On another note, this wheel correction speed crap is getting silly. An ethical concern RXX? Do you really feel like you're getting to a point where you're gaining such an unfair advantage? Gee, I'd hate to see what kind of hissy-fit you'd throw if someone sim racing against you changed their steering lock angle. They could probably hit a front wheel turning speed equivalent to many hundred RPM easily.

O. M. G.
 
On another note, this wheel correction speed crap is getting silly. An ethical concern RXX? Do you really feel like you're getting to a point where you're gaining such an unfair advantage? Gee, I'd hate to see what kind of hissy-fit you'd throw if someone sim racing against you changed their steering lock angle. They could probably hit a front wheel turning speed equivalent to many hundred RPM easily.

O. M. G.

Fanatec CSR-E / CSWs suffer from crummy countersteer potential.

If you disagree with that conclusion (which is shared by many of the original wheel beta testers, independent reviewers, and many owners), feel free to share your careful technical analysis disagreeing with all of the aforementioned parties and test data. Maybe there is more to the matter, I'd love to see your data showing otherwise instead of your tone, which is unproductive. Anecdotal observations are fine, but actual black and white scientific data such as I have gathered is even more important on a topic such as this one. I cannot help it if the product you are selling locks in some of the existing Fanatec drawbacks. For one thing many sim racers are not particularly interested in going faster, they are having a great time doing their thing and that is wonderful. Those with a "need for speed" shouldn't disregard avenues to better lap times in my opinion, or they will be more vulnerable to those who take more into account. A wheel that can countersteer like lightning does not hurt immersion, rather it feels like the wheel stopped holding your intent back as much. So it helps immersion since you forget about the wheel and just drive. Think of it like a left handed person finally getting a set of "lefty" scissors. Suddenly they can snip like a boss without the tool holding them back as much!

This is just basic Engineering or Racecar setup analysis. I just brought some of my god given talents and experience to bear on the topic. Found a cool pedal thing tonight after thinking about these devices from this thread. I'll chase that down over time.

As I modified my Fanatec base I noted that it was easier to make it through certain difficult turns when I cut the drag/friction/inertia while improving inherent linearity before any fudge factors are applied by the base. Better lap times resulted. Again and again. Go back to a stock behaving wheel and poof the lap times suffer. This is separate from brute FFB strength which I also pumped up and is also quite worthy. So I looked into this car control matter very, very carefully and for a very long time. I have analyzed detailed racecar lap data for many, many years. Sometimes I skype with fellow racers at big events where we look for lap time from driving strategy and car setup for day 2. No matter how far away the planet is that some Alien driver teleported in from, you can always, always find areas of potential. You never have enough time or money to fulfill them all.

The same thing kept showing up in my tests, which was (1) being able to effectively sense the need to change steering angle as in a countersteer correction, and (2) being able to make that correction very quickly once you determined the need = what is causing the change in car control leading to better lap times. Something like this helps slow, medium, and alien drivers. Fast countersteer by the driver can even partially make up for a slightly late start to a steering correction input.

I did this testing via stand alone logger independent from the wheel/PC/Console, wheelcheck as shown and charted elsewhere, and via 240 FPS GoPro video. The latter is cool since you can frame by frame see just where on track (via the screen in video) had what steering input made, how much angle, how fast in wheel RPMs etc. I made a little spreadsheet that shows wheel RPMs given Xº wheel travel during Y frames of video. I can upload that file if you'd like a copy in case you'd care to do your own car control studies. Use a high FPS camera.

The results I shared involve correcting a fundamental shortcoming of the Fanatec CSR-E / CSW base. Which others discovered before I had my sample I did not find that first but I may have looked into it more than most. You can look over the beta tester comments from years past, Shaun Cole's comments in the CSW review and so forth. As Shaun noted, he felt that you could more easily lose the car in certain road race turns than with some other wheels. Spinouts, wrecks, and blown turns come up too frequently. I consider the countersteer issue to be a problem for the Fanatec wheel base, and so do others so I made it a priority. Countersteer is also why some of the "plastic fantastic" Logitechs are really just fine for setting good lap times even if they lack in bling, immersion, and pride of ownership. It's also part of why Logis are decent platforms for modification.

So it turned out that driver achievable wheel speed was the culprit with Fanatecs and I solved that problem extremely effectively. I nailed it. You can use that goal or information (wheel not holding back driver intent) to good effect if you'd like. There are certainly many ways to accomplish this. I'd prefer to see you do that instead of bash me. You know, don't shoot the messenger? Remember that on forums such as these, many have no interest in developing DIY skills and so they must buy only what is for sale and back those vendors. I have no interest in selling anything but can only note that if a rival product to yours comes out which can countersteer comparably to what I accomplished, that is what I'd suggest for the racer who wants speed but can only consider plug-in-for-sale options. For those that do have DIY interests, there is speed to be found on that there virtual race track lol.
 
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OK. So no offense, but blah blah blah, I can accomplish faster countersteering by adjusting the lock angle. No need to go crazy with any mods to do that and get basically the exact same (and even better) results, no?

And I am in no way bashing you. If I were, you'd know it. I'm not a fan of the subtly insulting comment like you are. If I am going to bash or insult you you'll catch it with both barrels.

I merely think many of your pursuits are meritless for most folks, and that more time is to be found by practicing their tracks/laps than by trying most of what you suggest as some sort of miracle cure. I'm sorry, but I find it quite hilarious that you are asserting that a mere few ounces of drag can slow your wheel's countersteering down by a significant percentage. :lol: Especially when your testing is just you turning the wheel as fast as you can. That's certainly not objective testing. If you had some sort of apparatus for applying a uniform force it might be slightly more interesting, but I'm guessing it would almost certainly still be something I'd find inconsequential.

I would be interested in hearing what @mrbasher @novadave @Lucas Moreira @Cote Dazur @MartyU and everyone else think of this subject also though. Unlike you, I value the opinions of my peers. Though I am aware that you believe that you have none, so I understand why you do not. (That may have been a slight bash, but it's also true, I think).
 
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EKretz, I was supposed to be a US distributor partner and other stuff was promised, but after the designs were submitted I didn't receive contact after that, so its a little different than what your saying. Nobody spends hard work time for free my friend. I've contributed free help to anybody who PMs me, which I still do. We're speaking of a commercial venture, not buddies on a forum.
 
EKretz, I was supposed to be a US distributor partner and other stuff was promised, but after the designs were submitted I didn't receive contact after that, so its a little different than what your saying. Nobody spends hard work time for free my friend. I've contributed free help to anybody who PMs me, which I still do. We're speaking of a commercial venture, not buddies on a forum.

That is as may be, but you didn't specify that earlier. In that case you have a legitimate gripe. In the case that RXX is making none of that was brought up and he expressly claims that he is not out to make money or sell anything. Your case and his are nothing alike.
 
Yeah never said they were, wasn't defending him, I just gave him some advise if he ever planned to do anything on the commercial front.
 
OK. So no offense, but blah blah blah, I can accomplish faster countersteering by adjusting the lock angle. No need to go crazy with any mods to do that and get basically the exact same (and even better) results, no?

And I am in no way bashing you. If I were, you'd know it. I'm not a fan of the subtly insulting comment like you are. If I am going to bash or insult you you'll catch it with both barrels.

I merely think many of your pursuits are meritless for most folks, and that more time is to be found by practicing their tracks/laps than by trying most of what you suggest as some sort of miracle cure. I'm sorry, but I find it quite hilarious that you are asserting that a mere few ounces of drag can slow your wheel's countersteering down by a significant percentage. :lol: Especially when your testing is just you turning the wheel as fast as you can. That's certainly not objective testing. If you had some sort of apparatus for applying a uniform force it might be slightly more interesting, but I'm guessing it would almost certainly still be something I'd find inconsequential.

I would be interested in hearing what @mrbasher @novadave @Lucas Moreira @Cote Dazur @MartyU and everyone else think of this subject also though. Unlike you, I value the opinions of my peers. Though I am aware that you believe that you have none, so I understand why you do not. (That may have been a slight bash, but it's also true, I think).



I was a bit dubious about the merits of RacerXX's throttle pedal damping mod but until I try it I'll give him the benefit of the doubt rather than start slating him on here just because others were. Don't be a sheeple! ;)

When you take things to extreme levels to find every little iota of performance improvement, reduced friction is always going to be much, much more desirable than compromising things by reducing your steering lock to achieve the same result. You should try studying physics, it would enable you to clearly see why one might approach issues from a pure performance viewpoint.


For chasing max performance my advice to RacerXX if he games on PC and isn't doing this already would be to reduce every form of input lag possible. ie; Use fastest frame rates possible, Avoid using V-sync. Even use an old CRT monitor if possible.

I went from using my HDTV to using a Plasma monitor, what a huge difference even just that made!
 
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I was a bit dubious about the merits of RacerXX's throttle pedal damping mod but until I try it I'll give him the benefit of the doubt rather than start slating him on here just because others were. Don't be a sheeple! ;)

When you take things to extreme levels to find every little iota of performance improvement, reduced friction is always going to be much, much more desirable than compromising things by reducing your steering lock to achieve the same result. You should try studying physics, it would enable you to clearly see why one might approach issues from a pure performance viewpoint.


For chasing max performance my advice to RacerXX if he games on PC and isn't doing this already would be to reduce every form of input lag possible. ie; Use fastest frame rates possible, Avoid using V-sync. Even use an old CRT monitor if possible.

I went from using my HDTV to using a Plasma monitor, what a huge difference even just that made!

Registered last week and have 11 whole posts? Riiiight buddy. Read up on some of his history before you start making assumptions and throwing names around son.
 
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I went from using my HDTV to using a Plasma monitor, what a huge difference even just that made!

A plasma is just as likely to have as much latency. It's the digital-ness that is the issue.

Still, I own 5 plasmas and only 1 lcd (got it for free and repaired it). So I'm definitely a fan of the tech. To complete the list, I own 7 crt displays, three of which are widescreen and genuinely high definition. So, I have a lot of goodies to compare.

Now, response time. That's where the plasma has inherent advantage.

Moving on: I'm wondering if the way you addressed eKretz came across ruder than you intended. His contributions make direct and real world difference to people here. The tone that I read is wholly inappropriate in my opinion.
 
A plasma is just as likely to have as much latency. It's the digital-ness that is the issue.

Still, I own 5 plasmas and only 1 lcd (got it for free and repaired it). So I'm definitely a fan of the tech. To complete the list, I own 7 crt displays, three of which are widescreen and genuinely high definition. So, I have a lot of goodies to compare.

Now, response time. That's where the plasma has inherent advantage.

Moving on: I'm wondering if the way you addressed eKretz came across ruder than you intended. His contributions make direct and real world difference to people here. The tone that I read is wholly inappropriate in my opinion.


Yes, absolutely. They usually have less but it is of course possible that a Plasma could have as much input lag as LCD, my Plasma just happens to have much less than my HDTV and I now place much more importance on it than I did previously.

I'm not sure whether the way I addressed eKretz came across ruder than intended maybe I was a bit harsh but it was certainly much less rude and less inappropriate than how he addressed and mocked RacerXX in posts 128 and 132. Give the guy a break, he is only trying to help by sharing his findings.
 
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Registered last week and have 11 whole posts? Riiiight buddy. Read up on some of his history before you start making assumptions and throwing names around son.


I'm not making any assumptions nor do I need to read up on his previous post history to decide whether his most recent suggestions/posts above themselves are deserving of your ridicule or not.

On the other hand.. I saw your recent convo where you recommended 'breaking' in a brushed motor whilst submerged in water?

eKretz "One other thing I would do is break in the motors. People have been doing water break-ins with some success. This involves removing the motors from the wheel and running them at a set voltage using a battery or whatever in a container underwater. I recommend using distilled water to avoid damaging the brushes."


I'm really not sure why you'd want to do this, water and bearings are not a good combo if longevity is to be desired... but the difference is I'm not gonna insult or ridicule you because it would be extremely arrogant of me to assume that I know everything there is to know about these things. So please enlighten me...
 
Give the guy a break, he is only trying to help by sharing his findings.
I think this is the part eKretz is referring to that you need to research. He has been given many breaks. All he does is come on here making wild claims about how great his mods are, but when asked how you accomplish those said mods he will give you excuses like its to hard to explain or would take to much effort to show a picture or the other excuses he has used. So until he shows some actual proof of what he is claiming all of his supposed mods will be called what they are BS.
 
I'm not making any assumptions nor do I need to read up on his previous post history to decide whether his most recent suggestions/posts above themselves are deserving of your ridicule or not.

On the other hand.. I saw your recent convo where you recommended 'breaking' in a brushed motor whilst submerged in water?

eKretz "One other thing I would do is break in the motors. People have been doing water break-ins with some success. This involves removing the motors from the wheel and running them at a set voltage using a battery or whatever in a container underwater. I recommend using distilled water to avoid damaging the brushes."


I'm really not sure why you'd want to do this, water and bearings are not a good combo if longevity is to be desired... but the difference is I'm not gonna insult or ridicule you because it would be extremely arrogant of me to assume that I know everything there is to know about these things. So please enlighten me...

Well I'm not going to comment any further on that clown and his behavior - it's only giving him the attention that he craves.

Water break-ins have been used for decades on electric motors with sealed cans in the R/C hobby. Google it. As to your "water and bearings" assumption - the stock motors contain no bearings. After the break-in it's advisable to blow the motor out using compressed air or hit it with something like a blow dryer to heat it so the moisture inside will evaporate, then apply some light oil to the motor shaft where it exits the bushings.
 
Well I'm not going to comment any further on that clown and his behavior - it's only giving him the attention that he craves.

Water break-ins have been used for decades on electric motors with sealed cans in the R/C hobby. Google it. As to your "water and bearings" assumption - the stock motors contain no bearings. After the break-in it's advisable to blow the motor out using compressed air or hit it with something like a blow dryer to heat it so the moisture inside will evaporate, then apply some light oil to the motor shaft where it exits the bushings.


Ok, fair enough. No worries.

Yeah, ideas like the above can often sound a little crazy at first without research and knowing all the facts so thanks for the explanation. My point is that just maybe the guy does have a valid reason for what he's doing and it just hasn't been explained well or even missunderstood.
 
Can anyone here help me with a little project? I'm trying to put my Perfect Pedal on my CSP V2s to replace the brake. Can anyone help? The Perfect Pedal is AWESOME.
 
Well I'm not going to comment any further on that clown and his behavior - it's only giving him the attention that he craves.

Water break-ins have been used for decades on electric motors with sealed cans in the R/C hobby. Google it. As to your "water and bearings" assumption - the stock motors contain no bearings. After the break-in it's advisable to blow the motor out using compressed air or hit it with something like a blow dryer to heat it so the moisture inside will evaporate, then apply some light oil to the motor shaft where it exits the bushings.


Whoa, RACER came back?! I thought after the last debacle of having his useless thread locked he was gone for good.

Oh well.. I see he is back again with more magic and space butter!
 
Oh I haven't left, I do travel some though. Was just away for a few days for my son's College Graduation for instance.

In general I suggest trying things out and doing lots of measurements, slo-mo video analysis, splits... Then make some mods to address things that seem to be of concern. Most ideas will tend to fail however the process is geek-fun and sometimes you will find some gold nuggets. I have found many in sim land and have posted about a few to a limited extent.

Someone mentioned using lock angle to improve countersteer. This is not AT ALL what I am talking about and diminishes immersion in order to gloss over or cover up inadequate wheel performance. Sim > Arcade steering from my perspective however some feel otherwise. Some don't care for immersion (which is fine) but I want it. As much as I can get without the wheel holding back my on-track antics.

What I have noted, measured, documented, and shared is something different than the Just Change Lock Angle strategy. I found that many sim wheels slightly hold back "Driver Intent". As in achievable wheel RPMs directly due to hand speed inputs. Actual / physical steering wheel movement in your hands as opposed to someone's idea to just move your real hands very slightly on the real steering wheel and then seeing the virtual sim wheel on screen move a huge amount due to artificial wheel angle / lock angle adjustment. That's way too fake, and it is unnecessary. I did lots of before / after studies comparing actual achievable wheel rpms during actual race or qually laps. Comparing a normal drag and uber low drag wheel I could not achieve the same level of car control which turned out to be wheel speed related. Posted about it elsewhere. You can do some of your own comparisons if you'd like since the human factor is necessarily involved.
 
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