Fanatec ClubSport Wheel & Pedal V2 Reviews

  • Thread starter LogiForce
  • 166 comments
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Nice to see so many reviews, and I think I got all the info I wanted. Will def buy the wheel next time I'm out pf the country. One thing I'd like to ask though is which wheel does it simulate when in PS3 mode? I was hoping it would now be the G27 (as opposed to the G25 in previous Fanatec wheels), so then GT5 would support the rev lights and the larger number of buttons it has. It would be very nice to have that rotary switch working like the one in the DFGT in GT5!

The rotary switch for the RTA (real-time adjustment) in GT5 is a definitely a must.

Does anyone know if the final/production wheel will come with the M colour bands for the locating mark on the steering wheel? Although I'm sure it won't be a problem getting tapes of the same colours.

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One more question, are loadcells in the V2 the same as in the V1 if I wanted to pick up one as a spare or if they aren't will the new website have them?
 
Mr Latte
So thus far what game(s) would reviewers say gets the best out of the wheel?

Basically said, the games with the best programmed FFB.
Codemasters games are really "meh..." compared to below, especially the older ones.


If I have to say my favorite games are:

iRacing
Ferrari Virtual Academy / Netkar Pro
Live For Speed
Gran Turismo 5
pCARS (but due to heavy changes it is still too unknown if this will be good or bad in the end)
 
My review is almost done. 5,335 words and counting. I will probably hit 6k by the time I am done. I should probably see a doctor or just do video next time.
 
Maybe it has already been answered, but I have a question about CSP V2 clutch pedal. As it is meant to feel more like real clutch pedal, does it act like a real pedal? What I mean is that, if there is a certain point where it should feel like engaging/disengaging, does fanatec driver window show it registering movement past this point or not. If it does, then this new clutch system is totally pointless.
 
bumer
Maybe it has already been answered, but I have a question about CSP V2 clutch pedal. As it is meant to feel more like real clutch pedal, does it act like a real pedal? What I mean is that, if there is a certain point where it should feel like engaging/disengaging, does fanatec driver window show it registering movement past this point or not. If it does, then this new clutch system is totally pointless.

There is no fixed point of engagement or disengagement in the driver, however this is not really necessary as any driving instructor would teach you to fully press the clutch as to make sure it is disengaged anyway. So it is normal to depress it fully per shift.

That said the clutch uses a kind of see-saw system. The upper rod pushes that end of the see-saw down, bringing the black 'rod container' up. It gets harder to depress the pedal when it comes closer to the tipping point (the point where it is in line with the back rod and the rod of the magnetic sensor). This tipping point is your point of engagement/disengagement. When over this point your pedal becomes noticeably lighter to depress and you will have it fully depressed and disengaged. This tipping point is about 2/3 of the way. Which is a normal position where to disengage the clutch.

At the tipping point your brain will be notified via your foods nerve endings that the clutch is being disengaged and you will automatically respond to that by making the shift at the right time.
 
This tipping point is your point of engagement/disengagement. When over this point your pedal becomes noticeably lighter to depress and you will have it fully depressed and disengaged. This tipping point is about 2/3 of the way. Which is a normal position where to disengage the clutch.

In real car, you can let clutch up until tipping point, before car starts to move. If CSP V2 pedals still register the whole pedal movement rather than from no pedal pressed till tipping point, then this system is useless as you can't let your pedal up until tipping point because your car in game starts to move before, so you still don't get this real feeling as this pedal is intended to give.
 
bumer
In real car, you can let clutch up until tipping point, before car starts to move. If CSP V2 pedals still register the whole pedal movement rather than from no pedal pressed till tipping point, then this system is useless as you can't let your pedal up until tipping point because your car in game starts to move before, so you still don't get this real feeling as this pedal is intended to give.

Newsflash. Not all cars have the same point where the clutch grabs on either. So setting a fixed point in the driver is useless too. Also why would you want to know when the clutch grabs on? This is only necessary for a slow start anyway.

We are trying to simulate here. In other words trying to reproduce reality as closely as possible. Besides, what do you expect from such a simple clutch mechanism anyway? Just think about the possibilities of it for a bit, you will see that you can not except much except for maybe a fake simulated engagement/disengagement point. It is just that during racing the signal to your brain is enough to not have missed shifts.

I challenge you to create a better clutch for the V2 though. ;)
 
I didn't say that I need to be able to set certain point in the driver and I don't care that different cars have different points. I just wanted to know that if you can feel that point mechanically when pressing the pedal, can I use this point in game. As your answer goes, then NO. So there is no point in such mechanism, as I don't need to feel it, because there is no use for it in games. So it doesn't really add anything to realism.
It is kind of like putting a bass shaker to your cockpit that doesn't use in-game data to shake you but rather just shakes in 5s intervals, so that you know it shakes, but it doesn't really shake when it should.
 
bumer
I didn't say that I need to be able to set certain point in the driver and I don't care that different cars have different points. I just wanted to know that if you can feel that point mechanically when pressing the pedal, can I use this point in game. As your answer goes, then NO. So there is no point in such mechanism, as I don't need to feel it, because there is no use for it in games. So it doesn't really add anything to realism.
It is kind of like putting a bass shaker to your cockpit that doesn't use in-game data to shake you but rather just shakes in 5s intervals, so that you know it shakes, but it doesn't really shake when it should.

What you want is to hook up a real car to your cockpit. If you want to replicate such a system it would cost at least double the cost of a replacement gearbox for your car, since the R&D cost will be immense. And surely if you are willing to pay such a price then buy a professional simulator. Considering the current stage of development of consumer car simulation electronics and the price range the ClubSport Line is aiming at, the above is impossible to demand. Though I would love that level of realism, but i is currently on a whole different price range.

This is whay you get at 250 euros, that is what you might get at 25000 euros. Such a high price as it will not be able to drop in a consumer price range, so very limited on demand sales. Has high R&D etc.


In any case expecting to much. I find it worth it and have improved my shifts with it, you are of the opinion it does not improve anything and do not think it is worth the cash. So be it, each his own opinion. ;) Though I at least tried it before judging it.
 
@LogiForce

You are making things too complicated. All I hoped for is that if you can feel tipping point mechanically, then they could have done so that magnetic sensor doesn't register any movement past this tipping point. So all past tipping point is basically a deadzone. As simple as that.
 
bumer
@LogiForce

You are making things too complicated. All I hoped for is that if you can feel tipping point mechanically, then they could have done so that magnetic sensor doesn't register any movement past this tipping point. So all past tipping point is basically a deadzone. As simple as that.

But then you do not have the proper feedback on depressing of the pedal like you said to complicate things. ;)
You talk about mechanical feedback and then talk about a deadzone on a sensor. Both are very different things and your above suggestion does not do anything for it mechanically.
 
bumer
@LogiForce

You are making things too complicated. All I hoped for is that if you can feel tipping point mechanically, then they could have done so that magnetic sensor doesn't register any movement past this tipping point. So all past tipping point is basically a deadzone. As simple as that.

You probably have to set this on per game basis, but I know a lot of games let you adjust the start and end point deadzones. I did this with Forza 4, though I have the CSP v1 without the degressive clutch system.

In a game like GT5 could you press the clutch pedal in right at the engagement point at for the degressive mechanism at the start of each session, to calibrate that as the end point?

if Fanatec were ever to allow tuning of this at the driver level I'd love to see a bar graph that shows in real time how far you're pressing the clutch (sort of like they do now) as then overlay a response curve with bezier handles that let you manually adjust the start an end points and the response slope. Might be a bit too fiddly for some people, but I'd argue these products are aimed at the fiddly types.
 
But then you do not have the proper feedback on depressing of the pedal like you said to complicate things. ;)
You talk about mechanical feedback and then talk about a deadzone on a sensor. Both are very different things and your above suggestion does not do anything for it mechanically.

I mean that you feel that past the tipping point the clutch moves easier and before that it is heavier and this transition from easier to heavier movement is what I meant under mechanical feel. And that's what this system already has. I don't need proper feedback. At the moment, it just feels more like a real car clutch and if you add deadzone, it also acts like one.
 
It would also be neat to feel a BITE point of a real clutch. This would be a great feature to emmulate for race starts, but unfortunately its almost impossible to simmulate (as of yet). Maybe someday someone will figure it out, but for now, simmulation of the engagement point and neutral zone is as close as we get.
 
lemansfanatic
I think you are referring to the BITE point of a real clutch, correct? This would be a great feature to emmulate for race starts, but unfortunately its almost impossible to simmulate (as of yet). Maybe someday someone will figure it out, but for now, simmulation of the engagement point is as close as we get.

I think I have an idea on how to reproduce this to some extend in my head, but it requires a mini replica of a real clutch and a small motor attached to the clutch pedal assembly.
 
..could you not use a 2nd spring ?

In the crudest terms..add a 2nd spring, so the first 'half' is stronger than the 2nd half..and set the deadzone in the game options accordingly.
 
In real car, you can let clutch up until tipping point, before car starts to move. If CSP V2 pedals still register the whole pedal movement rather than from no pedal pressed till tipping point, then this system is useless as you can't let your pedal up until tipping point because your car in game starts to move before, so you still don't get this real feeling as this pedal is intended to give.

In any game all you have to do is set up your clutch deadzone until you hit the engaging point . So all the travel up until you feel the clutch engage on the V2's doesnt engage the clutch in game. I think that is the answer you were looking for ?
 
In any game all you have to do is set up your clutch deadzone until you hit the engaging point . So all the travel up until you feel the clutch engage on the V2's doesnt engage the clutch in game. I think that is the answer you were looking for ?

I'm not near my gaming computer at the moment and can't check but can't you usually add deadzone in games only to the beginning not to the end of the pedal travel? But in clutch case you'll need to add it to the end.
 

Nice write-up.

While I agree that most people probably won't benefit from going from a G27 to the T500RS but if you're mainly console racer, that your only game is GT5 and you find the FFB via G27 to be too weak, than the change to to the T500RS can be quite significant. Still, I do agree if you can afford it go for the CSW.
 
Nice write-up.

While I agree that most people probably won't benefit from going from a G27 to the T500RS but if you're mainly console racer, that your only game is GT5 and you find the FFB via G27 to be too weak, than the change to to the T500RS can be quite significant. Still, I do agree if you can afford it go for the CSW.

I really did not like my T500RS. This is just my personal opinion. I got it for $381. That is why I got it. For $551 it is not worth it, especially with the Formula Rim at $700. At that point the CSW is infinitely better.

If you are tight on cash, I think it is important to realize just how good a value the G27 is. From a cost perspective, it is the best wheel on the market.
 
FMW
So did your review also get posted on the Playstaion Boards? There was also another fellow on those boards that was selected. Did they ever post their review on the PS Boards? I'm anxious to read both reviews as I would very much like to read PS3 performance more than anything.

Cheers :)

Never mind :) I noticed where the link took me to.

Great and well written review!! One of the best ones so far right up there with Logi's!

Based on your closing and beginning comments I'd be curious to see how many PS3 only racers pick up this set up tonight ;-)
 
Paskowitz his ClubSport Wheel review

I really have only two complaints in regards to the CSPV2. The first is the cable connection is below the wheel and inaccessible when hard mounted and still a pain to access otherwise.

Actually it is easily accessible after hard mounting. Just remove the three screws on the top of the foot rest plate, remove the plate, and your good to go.
 
Paskowitz his ClubSport Wheel review



Actually it is easily accessible after hard mounting. Just remove the three screws on the top of the foot rest plate, remove the plate, and your good to go.

I would not call that "easy", but I will make note of it.
 
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