Fanatec CSL DD: Entry Level, $350 Direct Drive Wheel

Don't worry your portable wheelstand will be strong enough. 5 Nm is 5 Nm, whether it's a DD or a belt/gear-driven wheelbase.
BTW, Fanatec sells a table clamp for the CSL DD which means that it is not strong enough to destroy wheelstands/cockpits.

I sent them the video posted above and they said it went fine because it was only for that test but long term it could still weaken the platform and stand BUT if I wanted to I could try it. So I still might do it at some point but I think I'll just let the preorder slide on by for now.
 
I sent them the video posted above and they said it went fine because it was only for that test but long term it could still weaken the platform and stand BUT if I wanted to I could try it. So I still might do it at some point but I think I'll just let the preorder slide on by for now.
I understand your caution and holding off but did you explain to them that the unit you were interested in is a new release unit that even though it is a dd is smaller and lighter than the DD1 that was in the video and its maximum output power was 8nm which is the same as the the CSW 2.5 belt drive unit from the same manufacturer?

Again I just do not see how they can say their wheelstand would work for the CSW2.5 and not work for the CSL DD. That would not make absolutely no sense how it would weaken over time when the only real difference is the wheel connects directly to the motor shaft instead of a shaft that connects to the motor through pulleys and belts, the wheelstand sees no difference as the 8nm output is the same stress to the wheelstand regardless.

But you need to do what you feel comfortable with.
 
Last edited:
Over time it could weaken the stand? If that is the case, then any wheel would weaken the stand. Either they don't have any faith in the products they sell, are just being overly cautious, or trying to up-sale you into a Prime cockpit. Did they mention other products, cause I really think they're trying to steer you towards a Prime?
 
Last edited:
I understand your caution and holding off but did you explain to them that the unit you were interested in is a new release unit that even though it is a dd is smaller and lighter than the DD1 that was in the video and its maximum output power was 8nm which is the same as the the CSW 2.5 belt drive unit from the same manufacturer?

Again I just do not see how they can say their wheelstand would work for the CSW2.5 and not work for the CSL DD. That would not make absolutely no sense how it would weaken over time when the only real difference is the wheel connects directly to the motor shaft instead of a shaft that connects to the motor through pulleys and belts, the wheelstand sees no difference as the 8nm output is the same stress to the wheelstand regardless.

But you need to do what you feel comfortable with.

Over time it could weaken the stand? If that is the case, then any wheel would weaken the stand. Either they don't have any faith in the products they sell, are just being overly cautious, or trying to up-sale you into a Prime cockpit. Did they mention other products, cause I really think they're trying to steer you towards a Prime?

I really doubt the stand would be weakened. It sounds like a case of base-covering.

Here is their responses:

"Thanks for getting in touch.

We have not tested this wheel on the Classic Wheel stand unfortunately however we would never advise using a DD on the wheel stand because it would be way too unstable with the force feedback, even if it was turned all the way down.

The only thing I could state is that if this has the same mounting points as the wheels we have confirmed working under the whats support section of the product page then it will fit but be warned we do not suggest you use a DD on our wheel stands.

I hope this info helps and if you have any other questions please feel free to ask."

Then I said it's a shame it won't work for those of us with limited space.

"I am sorry about this honestly, the reason cockpits work for the DD is because they are heavier and have more weight to them additionally with the rear seat frame they come with and structure they have all in all they can take the force from the DD.

Trust me when I say if there was an option to make this better we would of already developed this but you will likely see if you look online most if not all wheel stands are the same if they do verify them to work well and they look like ours it may be a way for them to try move units where we, on the other hand, are more up front and honest.

Please let me know if you have any other questions and id be happy to assist."

Then I sent them the video and this is what they said.

"Thanks for getting back to me on this, I am actually familiar with this video but I do appreciate you doing research on your end.

I can appreciate this seems fine in the video but it is worth bearing in mind this was done as a test for the purpose of the video, long term this could weakening the plate and could have long-term issues.

We by no means are not saying this wont work but from our experience the reason we advise against it is because we know this can have issues and don't want to right out say go for it as if any issues occur we could be deemed responsible for advising to do so.

Its similar to our XL seats that have a weight limit of 150kg, if you are 160KG it won't break when you sit on it even after a month it may still be fine but long term the mechanism could break on the chair causing injury.

I hope this helps better understand from our side of things and if you want to go ahead you are welcome too."

So yeah it seems they're mainly just covering themselves.
 
We by no means are not saying this wont work but from our experience the reason we advise against it is because we know this can have issues and don't want to right out say go for it as if any issues occur we could be deemed responsible for advising to do so.

Its similar to our XL seats that have a weight limit of 150kg, if you are 160KG it won't break when you sit on it even after a month it may still be fine but long term the mechanism could break on the chair causing injury.
Yep, very plain this is not it will have a problem but in todays world where in a new car owners manual they have to put a warning about "do not drink the battery acid" it makes sense from their end.

Still I would have no qualms or concerns using the CSL DD on the wheelstand where I may not feel the same with a DD1 or DD2 unit.
 
Here is their responses:

"Thanks for getting in touch.

We have not tested this wheel on the Classic Wheel stand unfortunately however we would never advise using a DD on the wheel stand because it would be way too unstable with the force feedback, even if it was turned all the way down.
This is a strange logic unless they are talking about the weight of a DD wheel. A DD wheel is much heavier than other wheelbases and could make the wheel stand unstable even when using with very low FFB.
 
But the CSL DD's base is a hair under 20lbs, something like 16kgs (IIRC). Its not much heavier than my CSR (13lbs)... So weight isn't a factor.
 
16kgs? Where did you read that? According to the webshop description it's 5,51 kg.

I wasn't able to double check what I wrote, thats why I used "IIRC". It turns out it was about 6kg. 16 was a mistake. Apparently I didn't recall it correctly. :bowdown:

I am sure of it being about 19lbs though. Checking the conversion and the website...

See... I was wrong again. Its 12lbs and some change. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
I wish I it around December...

WS-Pro Wheel Stand | SIM-LAB

Good looking stand! I just wonder how close someone can get to the wheel deck while keeping the pedals in a car like position?

Seems like a higher priced copy of the GT Omega Apex which is available now for $135 with free shipping
GT_Omega_Apex_wheel_stand_1800x1800.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'm sure that my wooden home made cockpit is going to be strong enough for the CSL DD.

Like I have been saying all along anything that was substantial enough for a CSL Elite or a CSW 2.5 is going to be fine for the CSL DD.

People are getting entirely too hung up on the words Direct Drive which is just the style of the wheel to base connection instead of focusing the out put power on the CSL DD is only 5nm and 8nm depending on model basically the exact same as the belt drive models they are replacing.
 
Last edited:
Seems like a higher priced copy of the GT Omega Apex which is available now for $135 with free shipping

[Pic removed. Scroll up to original post to view. - Dopplegagger]

That's the stand I got. It'll handle a CSL DD with the BK180 just fine.

People are getting entirely too hung up on the words Direct Drive which is just the style of the wheel to base connection instead of focusing the out put power on the CSL DD is only 5nm and 8nm depending on model basically the exact same as the belt drive models they are replacing.

Exactly. Direct Drive or not, doesn't make a difference on what the wheel stand can withstand. What's important is the the torque. The CSWV2.5 can output 8nm, and it's just fine for the Classic wheel stand, according to the people at GT Omega. Then the Classic wheel stand is just fine for the CSL DD in either 5Nm or 8Nm.

CLASSIC Steering Wheel Stand | Sim Racing Stand | GT Omega Racing – GT Omega US

Click on "What's Supported" Left-most column towards the bottom.
 
Last edited:
In general terms, I agree with what’s being said regarding DD and rig strength. What I can bring to the conversation is that my RSeat S1, while being very strong (enough steel to retrofit a tank), is not sufficiently rigid. I run my DD1 at 6-8 Nm. My rig has keyboard tray that will shake and bounce off any item that’s on it. The point; I’m losing fidelity. Will I live with it? Sure. Do i want an aluminum rig? You bet.
 
Last edited:
In general terms, I agree with what’s being said regarding DD and rig strength. What I can bring to the conversation is that my RSeat S1, while being very strong (enough steel to retrofit a tank), is not sufficiently rigid. I run my DD1 at 6-8 Nm. My rig has keyboard tray that will shake and bounce off any item that’s on it. The point; I’m losing fidelity. Will I live with it? Sure. Do i want an aluminum rig? You bet.

But that rig would probably do the same thing then with an equivelant Belt drive wheel in place. The main difference I will conceded on the DD1 is the actual size and weight of the DD1 motor as compared to the CSL DD or equivalent power output belt drive unit.

Just because I would recommend a CSL DD on some units does not mean I would feel the same about something as heavy as the DD1. I have made that exact statement earlier in this thread actually.

I still say it is not the 6nm- 8nm power output that may be the deciding factor as that is the same. Also it is not a difference of bolting the wheel to the motor shaft rather than a shaft connecting the shaft to the motor with a belt.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have a CSL universal hub here and can give me the height of the buttons above the wheel mounting plane? Thanks
Ps.I ordered from CSL DD, but I have an OMP wheel.
 

Attachments

  • 8C68260F-26E4-4407-9615-C025F8683285.jpeg
    8C68260F-26E4-4407-9615-C025F8683285.jpeg
    39 KB · Views: 22
  • 7863C7A0-6FE8-44A6-BBCC-4EFD17966812.jpeg
    7863C7A0-6FE8-44A6-BBCC-4EFD17966812.jpeg
    41.5 KB · Views: 20
  • 0746669E-EC5E-4B4F-8882-5C57143076F3.jpeg
    0746669E-EC5E-4B4F-8882-5C57143076F3.jpeg
    57 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
Probably 10-15mm. Sorry, I’m answering because I’m using plastic spacers from Lowes for a similar situation. Fasteners can be tricky to get hex head at the proper length. I’m lucky enough to have an industrial fastener place close by! Also I’m not afraid to take a dremel to my aftermarket wheels. Sounds bad but I’m thrilled with the results. The funky switch is the worst one to be interfering with your wheel. It’s unfortunate and exactly why my dremel came out!
 
Thanks

answer Fanatec support 😏
„Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I'm not sure of this, however if you're curious about what steering wheels can be mounted to it, then we recommend all Fanatec wheel rims and all third-party rims using the 6 x 70 mm or 3 x 50 mm bolt pattern (e.g. Sparco, MOMO, OMP)
Let me know if there's anything else I can help with. Have a nice day! :-)”
 
Last edited:
@hakuna
First picture and notice how I removed some of the steering wheel to accommodate access to the buttons. The funky switch on right needs room to pinch with finger and thumb!
8526D741-3751-412A-A251-14BC5E7B1379.jpeg

Still needed distance between button module and wheel, so inexpensive spacers do the trick. Look behind the top wheel screw. Keep in mind that this distance moves the paddle shifters away from reach if you get too carried away!
EB506C52-786B-4998-B806-8D7DF2D57637.jpeg
 
Last edited:
@Fanatec... Congrats Thomas on the GT partnership and on creating a compact passively cooled affordable DD wheel. Been waiting years for something like this to be done so looks like this will be my first Fanatec wheel. I was wondering if there is any way to get an early PlayStation compatible unit, happy to pay retail price if possible? (I'm just a Muggle though, worth a try :D as it's been a while since I had a racing wheel and wanted to get one in time for a potential GT Beta.)

It is also good to see sim racing thriving, see your brand on F1 Mobile Racing tracks all the time.
 
Back