Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

[turismoslayer]

How was it mounting your pedals to the bottom? Looking to buy the Challenge but I want to make sure the mounts are fine

What pedals will you be mounting? The Playseat comes with a Velcro strap to secure them to the included frame. I use the T3PA Pro set in GT style and have no issues. This is not my set up, but is the same set up I have less the shifter.

 

[Placer Jay]

What pedals will you be mounting? The Playseat comes with a Velcro strap to secure them to the included frame. I use the T3PA Pro set in GT style and have no issues. This is not my set up, but is the same set up I have less the shifter. View attachment 716841

I'll have the CSL elite loadcell set.
Wheel base and all.

 

[turismoslayer]

I'll have the CSL elite loadcell set.
Wheel base and all.

Sorry I can’t help you on that set. I can say though that I love my Challenge in that I can easily stow it away and set it up. It’s also comfortable. If that is something you’re looking for then I highly recommend it.

 

[Placer Jay]

I'll

Sorry I can’t help you on that set. I can say though that I love my Challenge in that I can easily stow it away and set it up. It’s also comfortable. If that is something you’re looking for then I highly recommend it.

I'll buy the Challenge as soon as someone confirms that the elite wheel base and elite pedals fit perfectly without drilling.

 

[Placer Jay]

Okay so guys I've found the RaceRoom GameSeat RR3033 that will fit the CSL elite wheel base mounts and also the CSL elite pedals mounts (extra plate for £29.99) however the whole rig is still £390. Has anyone that has a full CSL elite base & pedal set got a cheaper rig option?

 

[Marky264]

I'll


I'll buy the Challenge as soon as someone confirms that the elite wheel base and elite pedals fit perfectly without drilling.

Challenge works perfectly with the P1 Elite, The Pedals can fit on the Bottom Padding fine. Just use the Velcro piece to support the Pedal Set from moving too much when the Brake is pressed. Very Sturdy. I had to the move the Plate a little further back for the Holes to fit the plate but It fits perfect no Drilling needed. I'm going to upgrade to the V3's when I can get round to it.

 

[Placer Jay]

Challenge works perfectly with the P1 Elite, The Pedals can fit on the Bottom Padding fine. Just use the Velcro piece to support the Pedal Set from moving too much when the Brake is pressed. Very Sturdy. I had to the move the Plate a little further back for the Holes to fit the plate but It fits perfect no Drilling needed. I'm going to upgrade to the V3's when I can get round to it.

Thanks a lot Mark. Now I have 2 rigs to choose from. £200 or £400... Mmm

 

[fasj6418]

This wheel is driving me nuts. It´s fun when it works, but it looses the center frequently. I imported to Brazil, so sending to someone is not an option.

I was wondering is this problem is common, and if there´s any way to reduce it. I don´t know if it´s different from game to game, because i only have it working on Pcars2 on PC.

I read that this is a common issue with some Fanatec sets, so if you guys can comment i would appreciate.

 

[Ekenbullets]

Okay so guys I've found the RaceRoom GameSeat RR3033 that will fit the CSL elite wheel base mounts and also the CSL elite pedals mounts (extra plate for £29.99) however the whole rig is still £390. Has anyone that has a full CSL elite base & pedal set got a cheaper rig option?

I got a playseat evolution tested with the csl elite package with loadcell pedal. It fits without drilling but pedals was a bit tricky to hardmount (using two screws). However I did not play much due to illness in family.

 

[Placer Jay]

I got a playseat evolution with the csl elite package with loadcell pedal. It fits without drilling but pedas was a bit tricky to fix (using two screws). However I have not played much due to illness in family.

Sorry to hear mate. My issue is not even wasting money on the rigs but more wasting time. Setting them up just to realise my CSL Elite Pedals won't hard mount know what I mean.
Just trying to find that perfect frame under £450 €500 and boom. That's me done for a couple years.

 

[BrainsBush]

This wheel is driving me nuts. It´s fun when it works, but it looses the center frequently. I imported to Brazil, so sending to someone is not an option.

I was wondering is this problem is common, and if there´s any way to reduce it. I don´t know if it´s different from game to game, because i only have it working on Pcars2 on PC.

I read that this is a common issue with some Fanatec sets, so if you guys can comment i would appreciate.

I only use this CSL Elite wheel with PCars2 and AC and in both sims the wheel behaves very good without loosing center 'deadzone'. Have you read the FFB 'Jack Spade' on the official forum? Maybe it helps? --> http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51628-Jack-Spade-Custom-FFB-Files

Hopefully foryou nothing wrong with the hardware itself. Fanatec calibrating/testing tool works ok?

 

[super_gt]

This wheel is driving me nuts. It´s fun when it works, but it looses the center frequently. I imported to Brazil, so sending to someone is not an option.

I was wondering is this problem is common, and if there´s any way to reduce it. I don´t know if it´s different from game to game, because i only have it working on Pcars2 on PC.

I read that this is a common issue with some Fanatec sets, so if you guys can comment i would appreciate.

You may have one of these two problems:
1
2

 

[Mike_grpA]

Sorry to hear mate. My issue is not even wasting money on the rigs but more wasting time. Setting them up just to realise my CSL Elite Pedals won't hard mount know what I mean.
Just trying to find that perfect frame under £450 €500 and boom. That's me done for a couple years.

Build one. You won't find a perfect rig for anywhere near that price. From all the rigs I've tried out, the only good ones are the stupidly expensive ones. The cheap ones (which are anything but cheap, some of them cost close to 1000 Aussie Dollars) all have flaws. Almost all of them have a significant amount of flex, which some people can put up with, but some people can't. I find the prices of these rigs almost insulting they're so expensive for what you get. Basically, $800 - $1000 AUD will get you a cheap chinese racing seat knock off, bolted to $20 worth of steel that has been bolted together in ill-fitting segments. A year two apprentice metal worker would do a better job in a couple of hours.

I almost spent $800 on a rig last year, then I got to test one, and immediately changed my mind. So glad I decided to rebuild my rig and make it better. It's cost me next to nothing, lasted for 4 years so far, and with the recent rebuild and reinforcement that I did, it'll last as long as I need it to, and would put up with DD wheel torque without flexing at all.

Find/buy a seat, and the rest of the rig would cost $20 - $50 tops to build.

Edit: This assumes you're handy with a welder and grinder. If not, you'd presumably have a mate who is who could help.

This wheel is driving me nuts. It´s fun when it works, but it looses the center frequently. I imported to Brazil, so sending to someone is not an option.

I was wondering is this problem is common, and if there´s any way to reduce it. I don´t know if it´s different from game to game, because i only have it working on Pcars2 on PC.

I read that this is a common issue with some Fanatec sets, so if you guys can comment i would appreciate.

If I were having the issues you're having, I'd send the wheel back to Fanatec. It shouldn't do that, ever. I've had my CSL-E for a while now, and it's never lost it's centre. I've seen people reporting having trouble losing centre on Fanatec wheels in the past, and it was always an issue that required sending the wheel back to Fanatec.

 

[F Inferno]

Actually the 80/20 prebuilt rigs are nigh on perfect and have great flexibility in positioning, however if he doesn’t want to drill pedal holes then building the entire cockpit I feel is out if the question and your idea of him literally building from scratch is probably as far from what they want as any.

As to price the Sim-Lab rigs are great, I bought the P1 recently but even the base spec for €300 is both cheaper and sturdier than anything else in that price range you just need to add a seat but again not sure it’s what they are looking for.

 

[Mike_grpA]

Actually the 80/20 prebuilt rigs are nigh on perfect and have great flexibility in positioning, however if he doesn’t want to drill pedal holes then building the entire cockpit I feel is out if the question and your idea of him literally building from scratch is probably as far from what they want as any.

As to price the Sim-Lab rigs are great, I bought the P1 recently but even the base spec for €300 is both cheaper and sturdier than anything else in that price range you just need to add a seat but again not sure it’s what they are looking for.

T-slot ally profile looks horrible IMO. I'd much prefer to use steel personally, but building a T-slot rig would be the next best thing, since it at least allows for easy modifications if need be. I wouldn't buy a pre-built ally T-slot rig though personally, since the stuff is very cheap and easy to work with, it'd take no time or effort to buy the profile and build one exactly like the pre-built rigs, at a fraction of the cost.

Maybe I'm just a typical Aussie bloke: Would always prefer to build/fix things myself, rather than pay someone else to do a half-arsed job of it for me.

 

[F Inferno]

T-slot ally profile looks horrible IMO. I'd much prefer to use steel personally, but building a T-slot rig would be the next best thing, since it at least allows for easy modifications if need be. I wouldn't buy a pre-built ally T-slot rig though personally, since the stuff is very cheap and easy to work with, it'd take no time or effort to buy the profile and build one exactly like the pre-built rigs, at a fraction of the cost.

Maybe I'm just a typical Aussie bloke: Would always prefer to build/fix things myself, rather than pay someone else to do a half-arsed job of it for me.

Looks horrible how, just aesthetics or you think the rigidity is somehow compromised?

Personally I prefer it to the welded box steel any day, welds always look cheap and also aren’t as strong either (though granted you’ll probably never put enough force through them to break one). The fact you can easily take it all apart or completely change the positioning along with mounting lots of different hardware easily is also unmatched.

I did look at getting it separately and I can tell you it’s barely any cheaper getting the same sized aluminium profiles and then you have all the slot nuts, bolts and brackets to worry about.

You also don’t get the custom mounting plates they use for things like the wheel decks, pedal plate, shifter/handbrake mounts and/or seat mounts and wheel supports. If you were to custom order those then you’d need to know exactly what you needed to make CAD file to custom order which not only would it bump the cost up beyond the prebuilt ones it’s just unnecessary extra time and effort as no guarantee the supplier will do a good job.

Obviously there is fun to be had building your own rig from scratch but in UK/Europe it most definitely is not cheaper to buy it all in yourself but I appreciate Aus is a little different as you get destroyed by taxes.

I can assure you though the good ones are not half arsed jobs and aesthetics aside which are personal thing, you aren’t going to get a more rigid rig. When the choice is between your standard prebuilts from box/tube steel and 80/20 the latter is always significantly better.

The Sim-Lab P1 I got with all the trimmings is actually cheaper than getting an RSeat RS1 (and N1 which is even more expensive!) with the same extras and it is worlds better in performance.

So while I agree people shouldn’t be looking at your standard GT Omega, RSeat, Playseat, NLR etc. which have a laughable amount of flex for the price and in comparison, I think you’d be surprised just how good the aluminium profile rigs are. I certainly was which is why I’m now telling people not to bother with the other rigs and get something like the Sim-Lab GT-Cup for €300 at the bottom end up to a Sim-Lab P1 for €700 and pick your chair and extras as needed.

 

[super_gt]

Could someone measure table clamps size? Not it's full length but the area between 'base blockers' & 'clamp feet'.

(Either unattached or when attached to thin base)

Wheelstand pro's plate is very narrow, only around ~10cm.
CSL manual doesn't provide any dimensions.

Sorry for the delayed response, but the clamp was in the basement and I had to find it first.

This is the distance(70 millimeters) when there is nothing in between the clamp and the base(the clamp touches the bottom of the base).

 

[Knukel]

View attachment 717732
This is the distance(70 millimeters) when there is nothing in between the clamp and the base(the clamp touches the bottom of the base).

That's a big relief, thanks! My unit is already on the way, can't wait.

 

[Chipmonk77]

Still no native (blue mode) support with the latest GT Sport update!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[JOE998]

Yeah, just went on to check their pathetic website.........and it’s down yet again. This company is a bit of a joke.

 

[Placer Jay]

Looks horrible how, just aesthetics or you think the rigidity is somehow compromised?

Personally I prefer it to the welded box steel any day, welds always look cheap and also aren’t as strong either (though granted you’ll probably never put enough force through them to break one). The fact you can easily take it all apart or completely change the positioning along with mounting lots of different hardware easily is also unmatched.

I did look at getting it separately and I can tell you it’s barely any cheaper getting the same sized aluminium profiles and then you have all the slot nuts, bolts and brackets to worry about.

You also don’t get the custom mounting plates they use for things like the wheel decks, pedal plate, shifter/handbrake mounts and/or seat mounts and wheel supports. If you were to custom order those then you’d need to know exactly what you needed to make CAD file to custom order which not only would it bump the cost up beyond the prebuilt ones it’s just unnecessary extra time and effort as no guarantee the supplier will do a good job.

Obviously there is fun to be had building your own rig from scratch but in UK/Europe it most definitely is not cheaper to buy it all in yourself but I appreciate Aus is a little different as you get destroyed by taxes.

I can assure you though the good ones are not half arsed jobs and aesthetics aside which are personal thing, you aren’t going to get a more rigid rig. When the choice is between your standard prebuilts from box/tube steel and 80/20 the latter is always significantly better.

The Sim-Lab P1 I got with all the trimmings is actually cheaper than getting an RSeat RS1 (and N1 which is even more expensive!) with the same extras and it is worlds better in performance.

So while I agree people shouldn’t be looking at your standard GT Omega, RSeat, Playseat, NLR etc. which have a laughable amount of flex for the price and in comparison, I think you’d be surprised just how good the aluminium profile rigs are. I certainly was which is why I’m now telling people not to bother with the other rigs and get something like the Sim-Lab GT-Cup for €300 at the bottom end up to a Sim-Lab P1 for €700 and pick your chair and extras as needed.

Funnily enough I was looking at aluminium rigs even though they are obviously more expensive but every forum I go to I see ups and downs with the Gt's, PlaySeats or RSeats however when I read up on the more expensive rigs, it pushes me to hold out for another month (which I am doing) and save up more money for a rig I'll generally feel like I'll never need to change.

Especially from someone like me who has a full time job 5days a week and okay GT Sport maybe 2 3hrs a day. To know that whenever I jump in my rig I'll fully be happy and just enjoy the experience without compromising the way I drive due to the flex or inadequacies of the frame, I'd rather spend the extra.

Still not sure which aluminium frame I'll buy but I have another month of research to find out. Still open to suggestions.

Jay (UK)
CSL Elite Wheel Base PS4 & Loadcell Elite Pedals.

Might also grab the McLaren GT3 wheel when I start to see shipping and reviews.

 

[Placer Jay]

Build one. You won't find a perfect rig for anywhere near that price. From all the rigs I've tried out, the only good ones are the stupidly expensive ones. The cheap ones (which are anything but cheap, some of them cost close to 1000 Aussie Dollars) all have flaws. Almost all of them have a significant amount of flex, which some people can put up with, but some people can't. I find the prices of these rigs almost insulting they're so expensive for what you get. Basically, $800 - $1000 AUD will get you a cheap chinese racing seat knock off, bolted to $20 worth of steel that has been bolted together in ill-fitting segments. A year two apprentice metal worker would do a better job in a couple of hours.

I almost spent $800 on a rig last year, then I got to test one, and immediately changed my mind. So glad I decided to rebuild my rig and make it better. It's cost me next to nothing, lasted for 4 years so far, and with the recent rebuild and reinforcement that I did, it'll last as long as I need it to, and would put up with DD wheel torque without flexing at all.

Find/buy a seat, and the rest of the rig would cost $20 - $50 tops to build.

Edit: This assumes you're handy with a welder and grinder. If not, you'd presumably have a mate who is who could help.




If I were having the issues you're having, I'd send the wheel back to Fanatec. It shouldn't do that, ever. I've had my CSL-E for a while now, and it's never lost it's centre. I've seen people reporting having trouble losing centre on Fanatec wheels in the past, and it was always an issue that required sending the wheel back to Fanatec.

Thanks Mike but to be honest mate I am a handy man but don't really have the time to build a rig from scratch. Rather buy a frame. Build that up. And then hook my CSL Elite stuff up and go.

 

[Placer Jay]

For anyone looking for a rig that you can hard mount the CSL Elite Wheel Base & Pedals to without drilling or anything, I found the RSeat N1 for £640. Pricey yes but if you can afford it why not.



This guy literally does it.

But yeah any opinions or anything shout me.
Still keeping my own options open for a good rig you can hard mount these items too.

 

[rikcougar]

Just fitted Fanatec CSL Elite kit to my Playseat

It works in gts on the ps4 in blue mode but there is no ffb and the brakes are crap

It does not do anything in purple mode

Do I need to update firmware? if so which driver do i download (win10 on lappy)

Or do I just connect to laptop in red mode?

I am no pc expert so any instructions need to come from the dummies guide!

Thank you in anticipation

 

[super_gt]

if so which driver do i download

Driver v293

 

[rikcougar]

That has done it, purple mode now active!

What a difference to the T300/G29 - different league, both in the construction and smoothness

Brake needs a lot of effort to reach 100% even with wheel brf set at 100

Should I change the elastomers or are they shipped with the softest ones fitted?

 

[Mad1723]

BRF is a setting you gotta think as: The amount of force needed to max it.

If you set it to 50%, you will need 50% of the strength to max it out.

Try it at like 70% and report back I run mine at around that level with the medium elastomers with the soft cushion and it works well for me. It's all up to you really

 

[Placer Jay]

T-slot ally profile looks horrible IMO. I'd much prefer to use steel personally, but building a T-slot rig would be the next best thing, since it at least allows for easy modifications if need be. I wouldn't buy a pre-built ally T-slot rig though personally, since the stuff is very cheap and easy to work with, it'd take no time or effort to buy the profile and build one exactly like the pre-built rigs, at a fraction of the cost.

Maybe I'm just a typical Aussie bloke: Would always prefer to build/fix things myself, rather than pay someone else to do a half-arsed job of it for me.

Mike. Lads. Could you guys tell me what you think of the Trak Racer RS6. I've seen it and it looks nice and compact. Sort of like an RSeat RS1 but 200 cheaper. I like the communication with the company and also it's very sturdy and you can hard mount the CSL Elite Wheel Base & CSL Elite Pedals to the rig.

Check it out and let me know what yally think.

Jay.

 

[rankings18]

.Still open to suggestions.

Jay (UK)
CSL Elite Wheel Base PS4 & Loadcell Elite Pedals.

Might also grab the McLaren GT3 wheel when I start to see shipping and reviews.

I highly, highly recommend Simetik K2 rig if you want something that is highly adjustable and rock solid. You do need to find a seat which isn’t hard, but man, I can tell you that it’s one of the sturdiest, most adjustable rigs out there, no joke. Also, customer service is top notch. I sent them messages through fb and they responded within hours. You won’t regret getting one.

https://simetik-cockpits.myshopify.com/collections/cockpits/products/cockpit-k2

 

[rikcougar]

BRF is a setting you gotta think as: The amount of force needed to max it.

If you set it to 50%, you will need 50% of the strength to max it out.

Try it at like 70% and report back I run mine at around that level with the medium elastomers with the soft cushion and it works well for me. It's all up to you really

I will make some ajustments tonight when I get home tonight and see how it improves, thank you