Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

  • Thread starter PzR Slim
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I had another question, what is the difference between the Xbox CSL, and the PS4 CSL?

Are they essentially the exact same base/motor? The only information I can see different is the Xbox is 500hz, the PS4 is 1000hz.
 
Corsa
Are they essentially the exact same base/motor?
Click to expand...
According to information from @Fanatec... yes, but the motor driver electronics in the CSL Elite Xbox is an older version which can't be updated resulting in a difference in the Drift Mode. In Drift Mode with CSL Elite Xbox you have values: OFF/1/2/3/4/5. From 1 to 5 is adding an artificial acceleration on the wheel, the OFF position is applying artificial damping,
In Drift Mode with CSL Elite PS4 you have values: -5/-4/-3/-2/-1/OFF/1/2/3/4/5. The negative values from -5 to -1 apply artificial damping, the OFF position turns off the artificial damping and from 1 to 5 is adding an artificial acceleration on the wheel.
 
I'm setting up my new CSL+ and was looking for some advice when it comes to FF settings with GT. Right now I can dial in the feel pretty well, but sometimes it just feels like there isn't any information being translated to the wheel. I notice it mainly during high speed sweeping corners where I know I should feel the wheel "load up" but instead there isn't any feeling. It's the one FF feeling that I can't seem to get. Is this more related to how GT does FF? Also curbs seem to be a little inconsistent as well. Sometimes I get nice solid feedback when hitting them and sometimes I can hear the audio cue in the game but don't feel anything in the wheel.
 
Unfortunately it's the way the physics are in the game. Increasing the FF won't do much for the "feel". Hopefully down the road this will be corrected. Especially since Fanatec is selling their higher-end equipment specifically for PS4.

Keith.
 
Thanks for the reply. It's unfortunate because the game is so close to being there but it's missing that final "layer" of FF. There just needs to be more life in the feedback all the time compared to the times of silence in between feedback. Definitely very fun still and I'm loving the base and new esport formula wheel. For $600 the package is pretty impressive and is miles ahead of my T300. I'm surprised at how much better even the base CSL pedals are compared to my thrustmaster setup.
 
I agree. Since Playstation Now was offering a free trial I downloaded Assetto Corsa and played it a bit. The FF difference is like night and day. I would love to see Polyphony/GT Sport offer something like that. But I have to admit, nothing comes close to the graphics of GT Sport. IMO

Keith.
 
Settings for my baseline so far.
I like very subtle FFB, no dampening and as expected the CSL gives great feedback with over and understeer but I was really impressed with vertical load and lateral force.
You can really feel the tire progressively load up under braking and on corner entry, this may not make me faster but it'll help with consistency.
I was a bit surprised how intense SPR was out of the box set to 100, it mutes other FFB and gives a very heavy washed out wheel especially slow speed corners. Minimum force in game works fine for me as a spring, I never cared for a strong return to center.

If anyone wants to share settings or give me tips bring it on!

SEN 108
FF 075
SHOCK OFF
ABS 000
DR OFF
FOR 50
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
FEI 000
 
Corsa
I was a bit surprised how intense SPR was out of the box set to 100, it mutes other FFB and gives a very heavy washed out wheel especially slow speed corners.
......"SPR OFF"
Click to expand...
Yes the default SPR of 100 I similarly found was much too heavy especially for trying to turn slow/tight corners. Tension was too strong and made it hard for proper turning in. It was kind of understeerish, fighting to turn in. That was beating me for a while.
I eventually settled on SPR (Spring) at 030 and I found that it working well and natural. I didn't want to turn it Off as felt that was too drastic, unnatural and of course killed the wheel centering calibration aspect.
......Other than that I have FOR (Force) from default 100 to "80".
Pretty much comfortable now.
 
IMG_20181217_161530.jpg

IMG_20181217_161946.jpg


I have all the measurements and ordered aluminum extrusion today to get a proper rig put together.
The old custom 2x4 table served me well but now some real gear and ultra wide have arrived it's time to get serious. I love this hobby.
 
Hi,
I recieved a fanatec elite f1 set today for my son after 5 deads t300 wheels in one year :((.
He plays a lot on the PS4. (aor). Now we have another problem the wheels is 5-10 degrees off center.

I tried to fix it, push the small black button en then push both sticks but nothing happens. (the wheel was on the ps4, maybe that dont work).
The menu says 448 i think that is the firmware but on the site of fanatec there is only one firmware for the set.

Can someone help me?
 
Jens72
Hi,
I recieved a fanatec elite f1 set today for my son after 5 deads t300 wheels in one year :((.
He plays a lot on the PS4. (aor). Now we have another problem the wheels is 5-10 degrees off center.

I tried to fix it, push the small black button en then push both sticks but nothing happens. (the wheel was on the ps4, maybe that dont work).
The menu says 448 i think that is the firmware but on the site of fanatec there is only one firmware for the set.

Can someone help me?
Click to expand...
After you performed the in-wheel centering calibration via the steering wheel's tune button etc, did you also perform following that, perform the wheel calibration via the game's "Option"..."Controller" calibration menu? That also needs to be done I think.
Same for pedals. Same menu.
 
Jens72
Hi,
I recieved a fanatec elite f1 set today for my son after 5 deads t300 wheels in one year :((.
He plays a lot on the PS4. (aor). Now we have another problem the wheels is 5-10 degrees off center.

I tried to fix it, push the small black button en then push both sticks but nothing happens. (the wheel was on the ps4, maybe that dont work).
The menu says 448 i think that is the firmware but on the site of fanatec there is only one firmware for the set.

Can someone help me?
Click to expand...
Easy.. read the manual... and follow the setting up procedure... the whole of it... as I did... just as it has to be done...

This wheel is not exactly just "plug & play"...

One recommended procedure...before setting it up and tuning it... is... flashing the firmware... 1st you must have a pc... with the fanatec driver software installed and connect it there...
 
Last edited:
Hey guys,
General question about the CSL elite for GTS

Do you guys all have a noticeable click/indent on GTS?
I haven't tried other games on the PS4 yet

my settings are in game are generally 10/10 where i can feel the click after center
at 4/4 then it's a smooth transition from left to right

For the wheel im running everything default with the exception of DRI at -3 and FEI at 60
Everything else is 100
 
It also clicks madly loud when starting a rolling race or returning to menu
Just got into sim racing and wanted to know if these noises are usual
Thanks for the help

Firmware is also updated to latest
 
QuantuM3S
Hey guys,
General question about the CSL elite for GTS

Do you guys all have a noticeable click/indent on GTS?
I haven't tried other games on the PS4 yet

my settings are in game are generally 10/10 where i can feel the click after center
at 4/4 then it's a smooth transition from left to right

For the wheel im running everything default with the exception of DRI at -3 and FEI at 60
Everything else is 100
Click to expand...

For GTS use ingame 5/10, FOR 70 and FEI 50 and you should be fine. Play around with FOR to find your preferences
 
Last edited:
Hello

I got the load cell kit for the breaks yesterday, but i’m not getting any signal from the break pedal.
Really annoying!

I’ve tried following the troubleshooting guide. I’ve update firmware etc. I’ve double checked the wires into the load cell unit.

No signal when on game. No signal from wheel via usb to PC. No signal from Load Cell via usb to PC.

Throttle works ok. Wheel turns ok. Just a problem with the break.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

Thanks
D
 
DelboyD
Hello

I got the load cell kit for the breaks yesterday, but i’m not getting any signal from the break pedal.
Really annoying!

I’ve tried following the troubleshooting guide. I’ve update firmware etc. I’ve double checked the wires into the load cell unit.

No signal when on game. No signal from wheel via usb to PC. No signal from Load Cell via usb to PC.

Throttle works ok. Wheel turns ok. Just a problem with the break.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

Thanks
D
Click to expand...
Contact with Fanatec support (use the red support chat button) they will tell you what to do.
 
DelboyD
Hello
I got the load cell kit for the breaks yesterday, but i’m not getting any signal from the break pedal.
Really annoying!
Click to expand...
Check that you didn't pinch the wire between the frame and the pedal when assembling. Also, are you using the new controller they provided? Both those things are common issues with the LC assembly process :P
 
Mad1723
Check that you didn't pinch the wire between the frame and the pedal when assembling. Also, are you using the new controller they provided? Both those things are common issues with the LC assembly process :P
Click to expand...

Thanks for reply.

The wire was slightly pinched, so I fixed that. Still no signal after the fix.

Yes, I put the new controller and took out ththe old one.
 
DelboyD
Thanks for reply.

The wire was slightly pinched, so I fixed that. Still no signal after the fix.

Yes, I put the new controller and took out ththe old one.
Click to expand...

Its highly likely your wire is damaged if it was pinched. If you are handy its a fairly easy fix. If not, contact Customer service.
 

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