Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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After seening so many post about csl elite ps 4 having so many probs, now im afraid to buy it...but in the next 2 weeks i will have to decide what route should i go, so i kinda need your help guys.
Owned a g920 went to a tx (witch burned) then i got a t500 locally . I sold everything and took a break , now i want to return.
My budget is close to 600 hundred euros but i ll ask the following what should i buy:
Thrustmaster T-gt 499 euros on amazon + shipping 50 euro
Fanatec Csl elite 540 euros + 140 euro shpping ( over my budget but i can wait more )
Fanatec V2.5 699 + 140 euro shipping ( way over my budget should i wait even more?)
I can also think at ts-pc / ts 488 or ts xw.
I do not own a ps4 but i will in the future , Gt sport is not my main game , but i will play it , i do play on pc mostly.
Does price difference justify the ffb feeling, road feeling immersion etc?
Can someone that owned csl and v2.5 explain the difference?

Thanks for taking time and read my post .

The CSL does not have "so many problems".
I don't have the sales figures but we can assume there's thousands out there being used everyday with no problems.

If you've had the T500 you've basically already experienced what to expect from the TGT and TSPC lines.
I have had all the Thrustmaster offerings except the TGT and this is my opinion.

Thrustmaster no doubt puts out good products that extend beyond sim racing as well, with the exception of the T300 and it's internal PS.
My favorite base from them is the TSPC, it does feel great and is reliable.

However, it does not feel Fanatec great.
There really is a difference specifically with subtle ffb effects such as curbs and under/oversteer. Fanatec feels more refined, adding in the ability to adjust a wide range of ffb effects on the fly removes the decision making process for me.

I really wish there was a way for potential buyers to have a TSPC and a CSL side by side to try before they buy.
There would be no questioning, you'd buy a CSL.
 
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@Corsa While i do agree with some of your points, but don't forget that you have other unit with different firmware, hardware, platform and game compatibility.

Well, yes and no.

Both CSL Elite Wheel Bases have the same main PCBA, motor, power supply and mechanics.

The difference is a cosmetic difference on the front plate and different motor driver electronics.

And of course there is the PlayStation security chip.

The performance is identical except that on the PS4 version you have a different Driftmode so you can de-activate the natural damper which is turned on by default to avoid shaking on the straights.

The idea here is @Tache Dragos said he was afraid to buy Fanatec as the CSL "has a lot of problems"

I wanted to put out there that many of us have no problems on either base so he wasn't deterred by a few posts here.

Still, all consumer electronics have a few bad apples and if it was my money I would choose Fanatec because in real world experience their bases just feel better.
 
By the way why not make a 3d printed black gear with the additional "belt holder"
Removing the original black gear wheel and placing the 3D printed gear wheel (and ensuring that it does not loosen over time) on the motor shaft can be tricky.
By the way why not make a 3d printed bigger pulleys?
This is a very easy solution for people who have access to a 3D printer, that has only one small flaw, the friction will be slightly larger than ball bearings.
And a very significant question: with the bearings installed now, you have zero belt slack, or much less than stock?
The diameter of the original belt tensioners is 17.7millimeters. I have put ball bearings with 22mm on the upper tensioner and 19mm on the lower tensioner. In this combination, there is zero belt slack, but if you do 3D printed tensioners, make them with a diameter of 20mm for the upper and the lower tensioner. This will give very little slack and a little less friction.
But remember that there may be little difference between the wheels:
The belt can end up being more or less tensioned (to a small degree) due to manufacturing tolerances.
 
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Ok, my 2 Cents.

I‘ve had the G29 when I started simracing in July 2018. Never raced before, so unbiased opinions here. The G29 was fine, I had fun with it. Yet I felt it was somehow insufficient, too plasticy, not customizable (wheel turn...) and the FFB felt odd.

Did research, talked to experienced drivers, decided to go Fanatec rather than T-GT. Late November 2018 I started on Fanatec, PS4 base, inverted V3 pedals and Elite P1 rim.

Yeah, it all felt better from the get-go, much better FFB and the finetuning you can do on the pedals is insane, but I must say the REAL value lies in the setup!! An example: I recently drove FIA Nations, Gr.2 in Barcelona. Somehow I didn’t hit the corners as precisely as I wanted to. It was like the game and my brain weren’t 100% compatible. The solution was to set the wheel turn (Sen) from 540 degrees, where I have it for the Gr.3 cars to 630 degrees. Perfect, every single apex. Went on to finish 2,3,3,4,4,9 (fuel mistake on the 9, so extra pit stop here...) in 6 races on 3 accounts in 3 regions. (Yeah, I know, no wins, there’s still work to do...). Couldn’t have done it without that precise driving I was able to deliver.

The ability to adjust a car to „my way“, rather than adjust to different cars‘ behaviour is huge! I would probably take much longer than the few days between the FIA races to adapt to the different cars and classes. That way, I‘m kinda taking a short cut: I still have to get in tune, but it feels good right from the start. And feeling good and trusting your „car“ and your abilities is extremely important in racing. Any wheel that will help me achieve that is the right wheel for me. The same is true for the way I can adjust how the FFB feels on the wheel and the way the brake pedal takes my input. It‘s just another world compared to, say, a G29. Purists may say „That’s cheating!“. Well, when Bertha Benz drove to Pforzheim in an Automobile in 1888 for the first long distance drive in history, owners of horse carriage enterprises said the same thing :lol: It‘s called technological progress, that’s how I see it. If it’s available and not banned, I‘ll use it.

Also, my grandchildren could still play with the Fanatec in 30 years, looking at the quality, pretty sure the vast majority of the competitors will have gone the way of all earthly things till then. And if I someday tire of simracing and sell it all, Fanatec has the best resale value of them all. Because it’s used as good as new, because owners cherish it and take good care of it.

No, I‘m not getting paid or sponsored by Fanatec. It‘s just what I feel like. Today, after having stepped into simracing just 8 months ago, I achieved the A rating in Gran Turismo Sport. From zero to hero, if you will :lol: The hardware I use plays a good part in it.

My current setup for Gr.3 (!), on my Formula V2, maybe it helps someone:

Ingame:

FFB Max torque: 6 or 7, depending on the individual car

FFB sensitivity: 10

Wheel:

SEN 540 (I NEVER have this on AUTO!)
FF 85
SHO 90
ABS OFF
DRI OFF
FOR 80
SPR 90
DPR 80
BRF 20 (to get kind of a mixture of a longer pedal way and load cell)
FEI 30 (had it on 60 for a while, but then my wrists hurt driving...)
MPS AUTO
 
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Ok, my 2 Cents.

I‘ve had the G29 when I started simracing in July 2018. Never raced before, so unbiased opinions here. The G29 was fine, I had fun with it. Yet I felt it was somehow insufficient, too plasticy, not customizable (wheel turn...) and the FFB felt odd.

Did research, talked to experienced drivers, decided to go Fanatec rather than T-GT. Late November 2018 I started on Fanatec, PS4 base, inverted V3 pedals and Elite P1 rim.

Yeah, it all felt better from the get-go, much better FFB and the finetuning you can do on the pedals is insane, but I must say the REAL value lies in the setup!! An example: I recently drove FIA Nations, Gr.2 in Barcelona. Somehow I didn’t hit the corners as precisely as I wanted to. It was like the game and my brain weren’t 100% compatible. The solution was to set the wheel turn (Sen) from 540 degrees, where I have it for the Gr.3 cars to 630 degrees. Perfect, every single apex. Went on to finish 2,3,3,4,4,9 (fuel mistake on the 9, so extra pit stop here...) in 6 races on 3 accounts in 3 regions. (Yeah, I know, no wins, there’s still work to do...). Couldn’t have done it without that precise driving I was able to deliver.

The ability to adjust a car to „my way“, rather than adjust to different cars‘ behaviour is huge! I would probably take much longer than the few days between the FIA races to adapt to the different cars and classes. That way, I‘m kinda taking a short cut: I still have to get in tune, but it feels good right from the start. And feeling good and trusting your „car“ and your abilities is extremely important in racing. Any wheel that will help me achieve that is the right wheel for me. The same is true for the way I can adjust how the FFB feels on the wheel and the way the brake pedal takes my input. It‘s just another world compared to, say, a G29. Purists may say „That’s cheating!“. Well, when Bertha Benz drove to Pforzheim in an Automobile in 1888 for the first long distance drive in history, owners of horse carriage enterprises said the same thing :lol: It‘s called technological progress, that’s how I see it. If it’s available and not banned, I‘ll use it.

Also, my grandchildren could still play with the Fanatec in 30 years, looking at the quality, pretty sure the vast majority of the competitors will have gone the way of all earthly things till then. And if I someday tire of simracing and sell it all, Fanatec has the best resale value of them all. Because it’s used as good as new, because owners cherish it and take good care of it.

No, I‘m not getting paid or sponsored by Fanatec. It‘s just what I feel like. Today, after having stepped into simracing just 8 months ago, I achieved the A rating in Gran Turismo Sport. From zero to hero, if you will :lol: The hardware I use plays a good part in it.

My current setup for Gr.3 (!), on my Formula V2, maybe it helps someone:

Ingame:

FFB Max torque: 6 or 7, depending on the individual car

FFB sensitivity: 10

Wheel:

SEN 540 (I NEVER have this on AUTO!)
FF 85
SHO 90
ABS OFF
DRI OFF
FOR 80
SPR 90
DPR 80
BRF 20 (to get kind of a mixture of a longer pedal way and load cell)
FEI 30 (had it on 60 for a while, but then my wrists hurt driving...)
MPS AUTO

Good Setup for my CSL Elite Base PS4 with Formula V2 and LC Pedals.

Driver 3.32
Base 642
Motor 22
Wheel 26

Feels good.
Thanks.
 
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Guys does V2.5 bundle worth 100 euro extra over the f1 set? im close to buy one and i wish i could have the f1 rim that comes with csl elite bundle , but also the normal round rim ...
and since they removed from the EU site the old csl rubber rim 99 euro one i will be stuck with the f1 rim...till winter. Or get the csw 2.5 with p1 rim, guess i could spare 100 euro extra for the csw v2.5.
What do u guys think , help me :)
 
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May i ask what was your final decision?

I've bought CSW 2.5, received it today, got different issues. I'm super annoyed right now.

First thing is, there's something inside on the loose. When I grab the base and shake it, or move in the air, it sounds like some screw fell off and is traveling inside. I suppose that's definitely not normal, but have anyone experienced it before? It seems to work well otherwise, but it's really strange.

And second, even though the wheel sensitivity is set to Auto, it easily turns only to 440 degrees to each side (880 in total). I checked this in games, also in Fanatec control panel, it's the same. I can fight the wheel with strength and force it to move past the easy turn so it reads 450 to each side, but why it would be limited like this? Setting the sensitivity manually to 900 degrees has no effect whatsoever.

I have the newest firmware just flashed, still same issue.
 
And second, even though the wheel sensitivity is set to Auto, it easily turns only to 440 degrees to each side (880 in total). I checked this in games, also in Fanatec control panel, it's the same. I can fight the wheel with strength and force it to move past the easy turn so it reads 450 to each side,
As far as I know this is normal for this wheel base.
 
Err, it's normal not to be able to use 100% of the 900 steering degree? By the way, another issue just appeared, loud coil whine that get's louder while turning the wheel.
 
Yeah, extremely.
I'm so tired of this.
how do I understand you! hold patience to you. I have the biggest problem with csl and I will send it back. There is no certainty that I will get a normal work product. Honestly, I regretted that I went to Fanatek
 
Just got my CSW v2.5 bundle today guys but ,it has a issue.

LE : Everything was fixed by a beta firmware 330, looks like no sound is comming from the wheel.
 
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If someone could help me out, that’d be great. I just received my CSL Elite for PS4 yesterday with the CSL Elite LC pedals. It looks as if I was able to update my firmware on the wheel correctly and it works, however my pedals do not work, like at all. No pressure is being recognized on the brakes on the properties page.

I went through Fanatec live chat and I might have to send this back, but seeing as I just got it, I really don’t want to do that. The rep was telling me I might have ruined the port on the wheel base by plugging the usb and the rf12 jack at the same time (though I had this issue with the regular pedals prior to installing the LC box). My PC won’t even recognize the brakes.

Any help would be appreciated. I really don’t want to have to send these back and possibly pay for repairs.

Thanks!
 
It is very likely a pinched wire like @super_gt said. doublecheck and then contact Fanatec customerservice.

I was wondering if it could be the LC box because if I connect it directly to the pc via usb, it doesn’t recognize it. And when I plug the regular box or LC box to the wheel base that doesn’t do anything either. It’s weird because it sounds like it could be a myriad of things.

Like I don’t want to have a brand new product opened up and have something replaced without me even using it. Do you think Fanatec will exchange the base and pedals?
 
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