Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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Just got my F1 CSL set last week with a playseat. Very excited. Can anyone tell me what this single screw is? No mention of it in the manual.
 
My csl elite ps4 DRIVER LASTES 373
AND raccomanded Fanatec settings {GT SPORT,.DIRT RALLY 2.0) . Everything was perfect till few days ago, while I was driving normally the wheel suddenly lost power in the forcefeedback in corners, low vibrate on straights, and when in corners seemed like the belts jerked. I also noticed that it seems not to have the smooth and quite operation then before. When I turn the wheel I hear and feel a gear/belt rotation sound wich I don't remember before.

I also tried to reinstall and update everything but with no luck.
I TRY 10 different drivers but not good. Afzer updating and trying different drivers wheel feel always the same. Wheel feel really hard and pulling amd jave sone fast moves. I dont have feel too road and car doesnt hsve grip. Itss impossible to race..there must ne something really wrong. I all weekend trying to fix but no luck. Its strange alot car just wont steer no FFB just noise. Today i try i Gt sport racing rally tracks and its like driving on the ice. I dont know what can i try i think is broken...,
 
How much travel does the brake pedal have with the performance kit?

I might eventually upgrade from the T-LCM i have now. But i dont want to loose travel in the brake pedal
Using the PU foam, red Ø12 elastomer spring, and red Ø13 elastomer spring from the new BPK here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-clubsport-pedals-v3-thread.392302/, I'm getting about 3 to 3.3 cm travel (was hard to measure accurately). My preload spring (explained in installation video in that link) is somewhere in the middle between min and max.
My setting is soft and has gotten softer with use. I might tighten it up a bit.
 
Using the PU foam, red Ø12 elastomer spring, and red Ø13 elastomer spring from the new BPK here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-clubsport-pedals-v3-thread.392302/, I'm getting about 3 to 3.3 cm travel (was hard to measure accurately). My preload spring (explained in installation video in that link) is somewhere in the middle between min and max.
My setting is soft and has gotten softer with use. I might tighten it up a bit.

Thank you for the detailed insight!
 
I got myself an Omega GT wheel stand the other day. I mounted my pedals on it and then tucked it under my PC desk, as I like having the wheel clamped to my desk. At last I am able to put my weight into breaking and have things feel nicer all round.

One other item I've gotten is a pair of racing gloves and I am stunned at how much nicer it is to use the wheel. I've been doing a lot with adjusting the Force setting on my wheel so I have a really nice weight to it, but when my arms get tired, I am able to lower it and keep a consistent pace going.
 
The issue is the V3 pedals are an additional $350. Which is pretty damn pricey.

To put into perspective, I was fairly happy with the G29 :) So upgrading is a treat to myself...but such treats can’t cost too much.

WWWWD? (What would Willy Wonka do?)

IceWarden, I’m in the same exact predicament as you. G29 for a few years, looking to upgrade now that things have gone up a notch with PC2 and ACC, both of which I recently purchased.

I’m telling ya, everything I hear about the V3’s, they’re the Golden Ticket. They are going to last FOR-EV-ER and you can’t beat the Hall Effect Sensors over pots on the LC.

Having said that, I might do as some suggest and just get the bundle with the LCs to start, due to budget. But I wouldn’t get them without the load cell, which when added to the price, gets me darn near to the V3s!

I’ve got a decision to make soon, but then I might wait just a bit to see what they do if anything for Black Friday.

One thing I am concerned about are some of the issues I read here. Kinda has me concerned. All the Logitech wheels I’ve owned have been trouble free, except for a dirty pot on one brake set.

Good Luck.
P.S. Gene Wilder, Comedy GENIUS.
 
Well I think that, on my budget (if my wife knew what this stuff cost she would kill me), the starter bundle will have to do. $600 vs $1000 is a significant difference.

Maybe the V3 pedals could be in my future if I like the starter kit, I am having fun, more funds become available in the 2021 future and I feel I need them.

But right now I am just barely justifying $800 for the wheel/pedals and overgrown lounge chair.

G29 can still be had for $250 on Amazon. Less than half of the Fanatec. Wish I knew that the basic Fanatec pedals were a significant upgrade over the G29 pedals. All the reviews talk about the load cell pedals. But do the basic pedals feel better than the G29 pedals?
 
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Well I think that, on my budget (if my wife knew what this stuff cost she would kill me), the starter bundle will have to do. $600 vs $1000 is a significant difference.

Maybe the V3 pedals could be in my future if I like the starter kit, I am having fun, more funds become available in the 2021 future and I feel I need them.

But right now I am just barely justifying $800 for the wheel/pedals and overgrown lounge chair.

G29 can still be had for $250 on Amazon. Less than half of the Fanatec. Wish I knew that the basic Fanatec pedals were a significant upgrade over the G29 pedals. All the reviews talk about the load cell pedals. But do the basic pedals feel better than the G29 pedals?
I feel your pain. I can't let my family know how much I've spent either especially having recently upgraded pedals to V3 and wheel to the BMW GT2 (both great and welcome purchases though). But that's the nice thing about the various peripherals. You could always purchase and swap them in.
As said previously if funds are an issue the CSL Elite PS4 Starter Kit will work fine. The base itself will last forever (mine's still going strong). The potentiometer driven pedals will become frustrating after a while needing cleaning and/or replacing potentiometers...but yes they are better than the G29 pedals.
 
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WWWWD? (What would Willy Wonka do?)

IceWarden, I’m in the same exact predicament as you. G29 for a few years, looking to upgrade now that things have gone up a notch with PC2 and ACC, both of which I recently purchased.

I’m telling ya, everything I hear about the V3’s, they’re the Golden Ticket. They are going to last FOR-EV-ER and you can’t beat the Hall Effect Sensors over pots on the LC.

Having said that, I might do as some suggest and just get the bundle with the LCs to start, due to budget. But I wouldn’t get them without the load cell, which when added to the price, gets me darn near to the V3s!

I’ve got a decision to make soon, but then I might wait just a bit to see what they do if anything for Black Friday.

One thing I am concerned about are some of the issues I read here. Kinda has me concerned. All the Logitech wheels I’ve owned have been trouble free, except for a dirty pot on one brake set.

Good Luck.
P.S. Gene Wilder, Comedy GENIUS.
Well I think that, on my budget (if my wife knew what this stuff cost she would kill me), the starter bundle will have to do. $600 vs $1000 is a significant difference.

Maybe the V3 pedals could be in my future if I like the starter kit, I am having fun, more funds become available in the 2021 future and I feel I need them.

But right now I am just barely justifying $800 for the wheel/pedals and overgrown lounge chair.

G29 can still be had for $250 on Amazon. Less than half of the Fanatec. Wish I knew that the basic Fanatec pedals were a significant upgrade over the G29 pedals. All the reviews talk about the load cell pedals. But do the basic pedals feel better than the G29 pedals?

I hear ya. As a musician I get to buy cool gear, amps and stuff cuz my gigs pay for them. That kind of works out for some of my toys. But this driving gear? They are my golf clubs, my fishing boat and gear, know what I mean? That’s how I justify it anyway.

At some point for sure the V3’s. I found this video very interesting regarding the telemetry of the gas pedal in particular, the benefits of the Hall Effect Sensors. Very eye-opening. Far less maintenance abut also much more accurate.


 
Can anyone point me in the direction of the Fanatec rep who frequents the forum? Dom is it?

I’m only a couple of hours into using my GT3 rim and the dreaded up shift issue has occurred. It’s a second hand eBay buy so not sure what help I can get, (the rim is in mint condition).

I’ve had the shifters off and it definitely seems like a contact issue between the snap button and the PCB. The button itself has quite a lot of movement in it. Anyone else found any fixes for it?
 
Can anyone point me in the direction of the Fanatec rep who frequents the forum? Dom is it?

I’m only a couple of hours into using my GT3 rim and the dreaded up shift issue has occurred. It’s a second hand eBay buy so not sure what help I can get, (the rim is in mint condition).

I’ve had the shifters off and it definitely seems like a contact issue between the snap button and the PCB. The button itself has quite a lot of movement in it. Anyone else found any fixes for it?
Yes it's @DomB_Fanatec
Would be a good idea to state which of the GT3 wheels you're referring to though.

I myself had similar issues with my CSL Elite PS4 wheel with the upshift paddle. It's probably something with a contact in the paddle not making proper contact at times. It would intermittently give problems upshifting which is a bummer. You may be able to get it sorted out but since my wheel itself lasted a good while I decided to buy a new wheel to replace it and no more gear shifting problems after that.
 
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Yes it's @DomB_Fanatec
Would be a good idea to state which of the GT3 wheels you're referring to though.

I myself had similar issues with my CSL Elite PS4 wheel with the upshift paddle. It's probably something with a contact in the paddle not making proper contact at times. It would intermittently give problems upshifting which is a bummer. You may be able to get it sorted out but since my wheel itself lasted a good while I decided to buy a new wheel to replace it and no more gear shifting problems after that.

Many thanks David. It’s the McLaren one, didn’t think they did any others?

Widely known issue and knew it was a risk when buying it but I just love the look and feel of it so much. Really hope they’re working on a new GT rim.

I really don’t want to tempt fate but I’ve just stuck a piece of soft Velcro onto where the metal orange shifter makes contact with the button and hey presto, I’ve not had an issue once in a half hour race on ACC. It’s still made me a little on edge though every time I upshift. Rim feels so good to drive with though it’s just worth it.

@DomB_Fanatec would still be interested in your thoughts though.

Edit: to add, I have the F1 esports rim too which is also a lovely wheel and had no issues whatsoever with that. Just doesn’t feel right using that for GT racing though.
 
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Many thanks David. It’s the McLaren one, didn’t think they did any others?

Widely known issue and knew it was a risk when buying it but I just love the look and feel of it so much. Really hope they’re working on a new GT rim.

I really don’t want to tempt fate but I’ve just stuck a piece of soft Velcro onto where the metal orange shifter makes contact with the button and hey presto, I’ve not had an issue once in a half hour race on ACC. It’s still made me a little on edge though every time I upshift. Rim feels so good to drive with though it’s just worth it.

@DomB_Fanatec would still be interested in your thoughts though.

Edit: to add, I have the F1 esports rim too which is also a lovely wheel and had no issues whatsoever with that. Just doesn’t feel right using that for GT racing though.
Are you sure it's a McLaren wheel? I've searched the Fanatec site on the wheels page and not seeing any wheel named McLaren.
 
Oh I see. I was looking for a round wheel. But in any case that wheel is no longer available from Fanatec. Seems to be discontinued.
Sorry to say but you may have bought a very old, outdated and discontinued wheel bro.

No I’m aware of all that and was aware of the issues surrounding them. It’s the risk I took. Was just asking to see if by now there were any fixes or if Dom could shed any light on it. Seems I’ve sorted it myself for now. They’re just such good wheels and being the only GT rims available for the fanatec range, had to have one. They’re a work of art just to look at.
 
Hi guys, I have designed and now printing magnetic shifter mod for P1 wheel. It’s a great addition making your shifts feel snappy. Happy watching and shifting.

 
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Is it just me or is anyone else finding shifter arms on p1 wheels to far from the rim? I’m used to F1 esport tho.
If you're referring to the paddles on the wheels yeah I find so too not only with P1 but others also. My fingers tend to get over extended and suffer after a while bothering for most of the day.
 
No I’m aware of all that and was aware of the issues surrounding them. It’s the risk I took. Was just asking to see if by now there were any fixes or if Dom could shed any light on it. Seems I’ve sorted it myself for now. They’re just such good wheels and being the only GT rims available for the fanatec range, had to have one. They’re a work of art just to look at.
Hi @aaron0288. If the problem returns, I suggest you create a support ticket. In some cases, firmware helped with miss-shifts on the McLaren GT3 wheel, so if you haven't already, please try the most recent beta driver package (currently 373, available on the Fanatec Forum) and update the steering wheel firmware.

As you have purchased the product used, you will need to manually register the product to your Fanatec account before you can open a support ticket. If the product is still in warranty, it's important that you have the original invoice. If not, we can still help you, so please get in touch.
 
Hi @aaron0288. If the problem returns, I suggest you create a support ticket. In some cases, firmware helped with miss-shifts on the McLaren GT3 wheel, so if you haven't already, please try the most recent beta driver package (currently 373, available on the Fanatec Forum) and update the steering wheel firmware.

As you have purchased the product used, you will need to manually register the product to your Fanatec account before you can open a support ticket. If the product is still in warranty, it's important that you have the original invoice. If not, we can still help you, so please get in touch.

Now that is awesome, thanks Dom. I will get in contact with the seller and see if he has the original invoice.

I updated the firmware on base and wheel just before I did my own little fix, so the wheel is now on 31. It didn’t make any difference but luckily my piece of Velcro did. As I said it has made me a little paranoid every time I upshift now (which is a lot!). But I will see how it goes. Thanks again.
 
Well got my csl elite package in April and loved it, recently upgraded to a DD1 and the clubsport v3 pedals and wow is all I can say, I didnt think they would be much better than the csl but I was wrong. Anyone on the fence about jumping to a direct drive or the v3 pedals my advice would be just do it.
The V3 pedals itself is worth the money. It really is a superb product. And the thing is it out a good many years now yes. It's one of the best investments I made. The standard potentiometer driven CSL Elite pedals I had before began to drive me crazy. No such problems with the V3. A very well made pedal set it is in every way.
 
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