Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,600 comments
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No, that is for a brushless "540 size" can which is not the same thing.

The jacket has to be for a standard size 540 or 550, brushed motor. The actual diameter necessary can be seen in documents like this: http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=rs_540sh

There is some variation in the outside diameters of the cans to be sure. Like I said as well, many of these, like the one you just posted seal on the can with o-rings and circulate water ON the can. So, it doesn't have to be an exact fit.

I just wanted to mention it as a friend was asking me about this recently.
 
Ok, here is some more objective proof of the Fanatec power reduction. This is something michelcleo could do also, to show the reduction he feels on his T500.

NOTE: I have removed this graph since it is not correctly set up.


The top graph is the wheel (CSW with F1 rim, firmware 037) measured cold, at which time a fish scale showed about 12.5 pounds when held at 90 degrees to the rim and hooked in the spoke as far out as possible. The bottom graph was after 15-20 minutes of F1 2012 on PC, (all wheel settings at base settings but damper off, sens 270, in-game FFB at 80%) at which time the fish scale showed about 8.8 pounds. This graph was made in Excel real quick using the step log feature in wheelcheck.exe, which is available here:

http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1473510.page

I believe you need to be an iracing member to download it at this link.

As you can see, when the wheel is cold it is fairly snappy, and when the program calls for -450° of lock, it's right up against it about 1/4 second after the call. Then when called for +450° it makes it to 255° or so before getting called back to -450° and reaches that point about 4/10 second after the call.

When hot, the wheel never even makes it to -250° before it has to reverse when called to -450°, and can't even cross zero when called to +450°.
 
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•
Ideal for fishing, luggage, post room etc.

•
Tare function

•
Auto power off

•
Over load indication

•
Low battery indication

•
With blue backlight display

•
Power: 3V (2 x AAA batteries included)

•
High precision strain gauge sensors system

•
Very simple to operate

•
Small and light suitable to carry

•
Unit: kg, oz, lb, jin

•
Capacity: 40kg/10g

•
Colour: dark blue

•
1 Year Warranty



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40kg-Port...tingGoods_FishingAcces_RL&hash=item1c280f2a64

That anygood ?
If so i'll order today and will hopefully have some results for the weekend
 
I'll get that ordered today, cant wait to weigh some random things.
I wonder how many lbs the mrs nipples will take before stretching hahaha
 
OK after familiarizing myself a bit more with the program, here is an updated graph of cold wheel Vs. Warm wheel from running F1 2012 on PC for about 20 min. practice in the rain @ Kuala Lumpur. This time in-game FFB set to 40%. Last graph was at 80%. Apparently before I didnt have the wheel set to 900 rotation on accident so the graph looked like the wheel was more powerful/faster than it is.

Corrected900WarmVCold.jpg


As you can see, it still drops, but not as drastically since with the lower in-game FFB it's not getting as hot.
 
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Facinating, so if someone runs the wheel at a moderate FFB level in the game/sim, he may not experience, or so slightly, not feel the weakening of the FFB on the wheel. He might not even have any issue with the motors.
It would certainly explain the difference in reporting feeling the effect or not.
 
Michelcleo
•
Ideal for fishing, luggage, post room etc.

•
Tare function

•
Auto power off

•
Over load indication

•
Low battery indication

•
With blue backlight display

•
Power: 3V (2 x AAA batteries included)

•
High precision strain gauge sensors system

•
Very simple to operate

•
Small and light suitable to carry

•
Unit: kg, oz, lb, jin

•
Capacity: 40kg/10g

•
Colour: dark blue

•
1 Year Warranty



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40kg-Port...tingGoods_FishingAcces_RL&hash=item1c280f2a64

That anygood ?
If so i'll order today and will hopefully have some results for the weekend
Click to expand...

the proper way to test it is with a Torque Wrench as it will produce repeatable stable results.
to do this you could use a three spoke universal automotive oil filter remover
and modify the spokes to fit the wheel rim.
fish scales are known to be inaccurate under low weight uses
 
Cote Dazur
Facinating, so if someone runs the wheel at a moderate FFB level in the game/sim, he may not experience, or so slightly, not feel the weakening of the FFB on the wheel. He might not even have any issue with the motors.
It would certainly explain the difference in reporting feeling the effect or not.
Click to expand...

you are correct Cote.
reducing the FFB will lessen this effect 👍👍
 
The fish scale is meant to give only a ballpark idea Dave. We aren't expecting to get 5 significant digit measures out of it. I'm happy if I'm getting +/- 1/2 lb. They are plenty accurate for what we're using them for.

If one wanted to measure "properly" one would use a load cell or transducer.

Cote, as I was saying before, between people running less FFB and the gradual nature of the reduction, it isn't surprising that most people haven't noticed the reduction in their wheels. The irksome part is when people insist it isn't happening without even testing.
 
eKretz
The irksome part is when people insist it isn't happening without even testing.
Click to expand...

Thank you for doing the testing, and taking the time to do the graphs, this a very informative thread.
Cannot blame too much some people beeing scpetic, as often info on the web comes from unverifiable source and unknowed peoples.
Keep up the good work, it is much appreciated.👍
 
hahahahahahahahahahaha - i knew it was you hahahahahahaha
Click to expand...

Dave, since you clearly don't seem to realize this, RacerXX has you on ignore. For the rest of the folks party to this odd behavior, apparently, according to RacerXX, novadave has been following RacerXX from forum to forum and doing his best to harass him at every opportunity. It would appear he is now accusing me of being RacerXX. Immaturity has no age limit, I suppose.

If this continues, it would seem he'll be making it onto another ignore list. I would much prefer everyone remaining civil and acting like adults, I do not like to use ignore lists, IMO, everyone has contributions to make, and I've seen Dave make them before. However, when signal-to-noise ratio gets to be too high, it tends to get a bit aggravating, not to mention time consuming.

This is my first, and will be my last, OT post on this subject.
 
eKretz
Dave, since you clearly don't seem to realize this, RacerXX has you on ignore. For the rest of the folks party to this odd behavior, apparently, according to RacerXX, novadave has been following RacerXX from forum to forum and doing his best to harass him at every opportunity. It would appear he is now accusing me of being RacerXX. Immaturity has no age limit, I suppose.

If this continues, it would seem he'll be making it onto another ignore list. I would much prefer everyone remaining civil and acting like adults, I do not like to use ignore lists, IMO, everyone has contributions to make, and I've seen Dave make them before. However, when signal-to-noise ratio gets to be too high, it tends to get a bit aggravating, not to mention time consuming.

This is my first, and will be my last, OT post on this subject.
Click to expand...

in my case i have been around these forums a lot longer than him and i am definately not following him.
as far as helping out others i try hard to help out when ever i can without getting too deep.
from what i have seen on other websites it seems to be his way or the highway is his way to go.
 
disagreement is no a sign of immaturity? It seems some cannot always deal with it as well as others and instead turn their back on it.

Why does this keep happening when RacerXX is posting things? Does not seem to happen to others.

Anyhow, there is nothing wrong disagreements. Ignoring them seems strange though.
 
Just as an FYI to the group, I have been helped by, Dave, eKretz and Racer x and others as well of course.
I hope every one chill out as it would be a shame to deprived ourselves of the input of any of these 3 great posters.
my 2 cents.
 
Okay, well, let's just try to keep things civil and above board. That's all I'm saying. I don't care about people disagreeing, that is a simple fact of life, and it will happen often. Just everybody let's leave the snarky stuff at the door please. Lord knows I get enough of it at home.
 
Edit: Hmm I just realized that RacerXX probably has me on ignore as well so there wasn't much point in posting this... Anyhow I'll leave what I posted in case he changes his mind.

Interesting. I like testing :)

However, I wonder if that left turn problem in Forza is actually locking up the firmware on the wheel in such a way that it stops measuring the temp and thus controlling the motor drive? This runaway condition might explain why leaving it in that state would burn up the motors, even if it only happened once. The PIC chips used in the wheels don't really "multi-thread" so if it got into a state it couldn't get out of, it would never make it back to the code that said "hey! back off the power! I'm burning up over here!"

It seems it would be interesting to test with your dummy load instead of the motors. Though it'd take some messing around to get the wheel to do it I guess.
 
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Nice find RacerXX. The on/off trick is something people can definitely put to use on stock wheels.

Mr.B wonders this:

Interesting. I like testing

However, I wonder if that left turn problem in Forza is actually locking up the firmware on the wheel in such a way that it stops measuring the temp and thus controlling the motor drive? This runaway condition might explain why leaving it in that state would burn up the motors, even if it only happened once. The PIC chips used in the wheels don't really "multi-thread" so if it got into a state it couldn't get out of, it would never make it back to the code that said "hey! back off the power! I'm burning up over here!"

It seems it would be interesting to test with your dummy load instead of the motors. Though it'd take some messing around to get the wheel to do it I guess.
Click to expand...

Good question basher. It might be hard to induce the left turn lock-up when one wants it though.
 
On the topic of how we relate to each other: Please remember that we are all real people on the other side of the words we read (or don't read). We all have our own stories, and life is not necessarily easy for those who do things easily.

There are some very talented people here, and it is a joy to read and learn.
 
The temperature sensor is glued in place between two of the heat sink fins
Click to expand...
Above 50ºC / 125º F the current is suddenly cut to about 80% of maximum
Click to expand...
So the sensor reads the temperature of the heat sink and when the heat sink reach a temperature above 50ºC the wheel goes to a 20% power reduction.
What would be an easy way to monitor the heat sink temperature? As this would tell us when we reach a level that Fanatec thinks need attention and possibly could allow some one interested to modify the FFB settings to stay in the safe zone.
 
RacerXX
pRS1-9532746w345.jpg


I just use a cheap remote thermometer from Radio Shack. It updates temperature every 15 seconds FWIW. I dremelled the probe to a thinner size. It has a min / max memory and reads from -58 to 158º F and can do ºC .

There are some nice PC or Automotive oriented gages too…including some with blue or red LEDs to match Fanatec displays. There are also some that will beep or blink if some preset temperature is hit.
Click to expand...

so just stick the probe in the fins of the heat sink near where the other probe is?
 

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