Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

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OK back again with a quick update.
GT7 has become unplayable with my Wheelbase.
The FFB loss bug is happening so much no matter how often I restart and unplug everything.
I did a few quick tests to try and check out what might cause the issue and to me it most certainly seems to be FFB Torque related.
My Wheelbase Settings have always been at 100% and my in game settings are always set to 5/8.
So around 7.5NM.

These Settings are most obviously too much to handle and it's causing these dropouts.
I can clearly notice these dropouts happening after big and long Torque peaks going through corners at high speeds.
Sometimes it just loses the FFB during these FFB peaks, but as soon as I exit the corner and the torque levels decrease slowly the frame rate hiccups kick in and the FFB is gone completely.

No FFB at all, Shift paddles not working.
I had 1 moment where it just disappeared showing me the F 😅 on my Wheel only to creep back in and the F disappeared on the Wheel showing my speed numbers again and selected gear... and the next corner it then completely gave up again.

Same thing happened while playing Motorfest doing 1 of the drift Playlists.
During these Missions the G Forces / Torque Levels become very high.
I have the FFB set to 9NM or 60% in Motorfest and 100% on my Wheelbase and while cruising down the twisties with these settings everything is fine as I drive my cars within the tire grip limits and therefore the simulated G Forces don't reach these 9NM, for the drift missions however it's obviously too much as the same FFB Loss happens there too.

But without the mentioned Frame Drops like with GT7.

I don't know Guys but I'll just sit this crap out until Fanatec finally releases it's new Firmware.

Like I said I'm very much convinced that it is the Torque Levels causing some mechanical issues which then kind of overloads the WQR or whatever it might be only to then dropout completely.

Maybe I'm wrong and it's something different but however something definitely has to be done ASAP.

No idea why it just suddenly started to occur since a few days as I never had any issues before and I didn't change any settings not on my Wheelbase and not in game.

This is not cool... 🙄

My only hope is that Fanatec can fix this issue with their upcoming new Driver / Firmware Version.

Otherwise I'll be forced to return my Wheelbase for an RMA...
Do you have another Fanatec wheel / rim (with metal qr2) to try for comparison, in the event its the "Extreme" wheel at fault?

For GT7, I use my Formula v2.5 wheel at 6/7 (100% ffb on base) and my Clubsport RS wheel 7/7 (100% ffb on base) and thus far it feels strong with all the ffb detail, and have had no issues this far - touch wood!
 
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I happened to be watching Rory's (eerieninessnenesisieeesessss) live stream that day at the exact time that weird wheel rotation bug got him and wrecked his GT7 daily race. I don't think that's ever happened to me for some reason. Not sure which FW he was on at the time though. That never happened on my GT DD Pro either. I usually set custom wheel rotation though, even if it's the same as setting it to auto on the wheel. I thought it might only happen if setting wheel sensitivity to auto on wheel when playing GT7 but not sure.
 
Do you have another Fanatec wheel / rim (with metal qr2) to try for comparison, in the event its the "Extreme" wheel at fault?

For GT7, I use my Formula v2.5 wheel at 6/7 (100% ffb on base) and my Clubsport RS wheel 7/7 (100% ffb on base) and thus far it feels strong with all the ffb detail, and have had no issues this far - touch wood!
It happens with both of my Wheels, the Extreme with qr2 lite same as with my McLaren V2 with the metal QR2.

It worked flawless though for 7 weeks, until it just started recently and got worse and within 4 days it became unusable.
 
I have a regular GT DD Pro 8Nm but I also noticed this wheel rotation bug the other day, only once, luckily not in a daily race but some time trial I think.

Also, what's happening to me from time to time is that the wheel suddenly becomes much harder to turn, lets say, I use 4/1 in the settings, and sometimes when I'm starting a session it feels like I set it up to 6 or 7 FFB instead of 4... And nothing helps but to restart the session. Most noticable is in time trial, because I restart the lap often, every 10-15 restarts I get this strange bug. It's not that big of a deal until it happens just when I'm starting a daily race, it's not affecting my performance or anything but it's much harder to turn that I'm used to and it's quite annoying. I'm on 455 currently but I remember this happening from a long time ago, when we drove the Group 2 Suzuka time trial, so it's not a new driver bug for sure.
 
It happens with both of my Wheels, the Extreme with qr2 lite same as with my McLaren V2 with the metal QR2.

It worked flawless though for 7 weeks, until it just started recently and got worse and within 4 days it became unusable.
That surely has to be hardware. I know your bummed, especially when factorying in dealing with a Fanatec rma. The pessimistic side of me tells me that might be something we all come to face with. There's been far too many reports of issues for my taste.
 
Quick update Guys,

Something very strange and very interesting is going on today while testing and trying to make my Wheelbase work properly again.
I'm not fully convinced yet, but I'm onto something that might be THE solution/explanation for this strange disconnection bug.

I'm currently investigating something and so far it's looking very promising.

I'll report back later if my suspicion gets confirmed.
Stay tuned 🙂
 
Quick update Guys,

Something very strange and very interesting is going on today while testing and trying to make my Wheelbase work properly again.
I'm not fully convinced yet, but I'm onto something that might be THE solution/explanation for this strange disconnection bug.

I'm currently investigating something and so far it's looking very promising.

I'll report back later if my suspicion gets confirmed.
Stay tuned 🙂
Good luck, man.
 
Quick update Guys,

Something very strange and very interesting is going on today while testing and trying to make my Wheelbase work properly again.
I'm not fully convinced yet, but I'm onto something that might be THE solution/explanation for this strange disconnection bug.

I'm currently investigating something and so far it's looking very promising.

I'll report back later if my suspicion gets confirmed.
Stay tuned 🙂
Fingers crossed for you and the rest of us, should this ever crop up!
 
I'm on DD Pro 8nm, driver FW 447 on wheelbase(1.1.7, Motor 1.0.2). In attempt to avoid these FFB issues I never updated my wheelbase FW, only the wheels (Mcl V2 and F V2.5).

With all things being equal, only change for me was PD update on 1.43. So I'm hoping PD and Fanatec can work things out.

Edit: I also agree with Vule, the wheel sensitivity issue is more observed in the Time Trials rather than the races.
 
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Hello Guys,
Hopefully someone can help me with the following problem.
I can't add a bought Product to my Fanatec Products in my Customer Account and therefore it's not possible to open an RMA Support Ticket.

I tried to add my DD Extreme to my "My Products Page" but it doesn't get added.
I used the Link provided on the Fanatec Page View attachment 1346951

I filled out all necessary info's like Serial Number, Date of Purchase and added a photo of the bill as requested in the form provided.

Yet when I finally hit the "Add Product" Button nothing happens.

So my question is how do I get it added.
How can I use my warranty.

I already contacted the Fanatec Customer Support and explained it very detailed.

3 min later I received this nonsensical and most obviously automated mail

What should I do now?
I'm kind of confused and hope someone here might help me.

Edit : I just stumbled over this poor souls topic on the Fanatec Forum and he describes exactly the same issue I'm having
Didn't you buy it off ebay? If so that might be why, as the Fanatec system knows you didn't buy the wheel from them, and Fanatec warranties aren't transferable.
 
Didn't you buy it off ebay? If so that might be why, as the Fanatec system knows you didn't buy the wheel from them, and Fanatec warranties aren't transferable.
No I didn't buy it off ebay directly.
I bought it from a platform called ebay Kleinanzeigen, but it's just a platform for private persons to sell their goods.

The Extreme Bundle was bought from a person directly from Fanatec Online Store and I bought it from him.

He gave me the original Bill, so it is under legal consumer warranty.

So now I'm the legal owner.
But the problem is that I can't connect it with my Fanatec Account despite claiming in the Fanatec Legal Rights claimer that it should be possible.

Therefore they have added the option to add items to your Account.

It must be some bug with their web page.
I already contacted some Fanatec Members and currently I'm waiting for a response.
I the meantime I gave the original seller from which I've bought the Bundle a call and he assured me that if it shouldn't be possible for me to add it, he would then do it for me.
So no real issue besides a bit of headache and driving 35km to hand him the Wheelbase.
 
So like I said here's my update and I have some pretty good news in regards of making my Wheelbase work properly.
I've done it.
It works.
Flawless.
No more issues.
Not a single disconnect after my long and investigative search.

So what was it?!
What was causing the issue.

It is a huge Software Bug with the Tuning Menu.
I'll explain it.
So today I fired up my Ps5 and my Wheelbase to do some testing.
I knew that it most probably wouldn't be working but I simy had to try it.

And of course after approximately a minute of driving the first disconnections have started.

I restarted the Wheelbase and tried it again, and of course this time it happened after a few seconds.
Rinse and repeat but no chance.
I was about to give up when I thought ok, let's check the Tuning Menu Settings.
I fiddled a bit here and there but nothing changed, it kept disconnecting.

Just when I was about to turn it off completely I decided to try another Tuning Menu Slot.
I changed to Slot 5, dialed in my settings and started to drive... and drive... and drive, but this time no disconnect.
I thought ok this is most probably just luck.
I switched back to my previously used Tuning Menu Slot 2.
I started to drive and boom, disconnect.

OK, I turned off the Ps5 and the Wheelbase too.
Fired them both back up and first thing I did BEFORE launching the game I selected Tuning Menu Slot 5.

I booted up the Game and drove as it never have bugged.
Not a single disconnect after 2hours of constant driving.
OK let's try turning menu slot 2 again, guess what... after a couple of corners it disconnected.

So that was the moment I realized that it must be related to some software issue within the Wheelbase Tuning Menu.

Next thing I did, I did a hard reset on the Tuning Menu by holding down the menu button until the Wheel displayed RST.
So now everything was back to Factory Settings within all of the 5 available Tuning Menu Slots.

I dialed in Slot 1 for ACC as before
Slot 2 for Motorfest / same slot as prior
Slot 3 for GT7 / same slot as prior

And finally ALL of the disconnections across each individual Slot have vanished.
I tried every game with its dialed in settings and no more bugs at all.

So, to sum it up Fanatec definitely have messed up something with their Tuning menu software algorithm.

I'm no expert but I'm absolutely convinced that this has to be addressed. @SimRacer925
I just hope that it doesn't return, if so I'll hard reset the tuning menu again, but it would just be a momentarily solution.

So until 457 hasn't hit the shelfes this will be my solution in case it happens again.
Assuming 457 will have this addressed, I'm quite sure that it will be history.

BTW, I recorded this little clip with my phone just an hour ago... Enjoy the ride, these twisties are made for the DD+
The FFB feels amazing and the driving experience is very real. So natural very much like driving in real life.
It just flows 😀


 
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So like I said here's my update and I have some pretty good news in regards of making my Wheelbase work properly.
I've done it.
It works.
Flawless.
No more issues.
Not a single disconnect after my long and investigative search.

So what was it?!
What was causing the issue.

It is a huge Software Bug with the Tuning Menu.
I'll explain it.
So today I fired up my Ps5 and my Wheelbase to do some testing.
I knew that it most probably wouldn't be working but I simy had to try it.

And of course after approximately a minute of driving the first disconnections have started.

I restarted the Wheelbase and tried it again, and of course this time it happened after a few seconds.
Rinse and repeat but no chance.
I was about to give up when I thought ok, let's check the Tuning Menu Settings.
I fiddled a bit here and there but nothing changed, it kept disconnecting.

Just when I was about to turn it off completely I decided to try another Tuning Menu Slot.
I changed to Slot 5, dialed in my settings and started to drive... and drive... and drive, but this time no disconnect.
I thought ok this is most probably just luck.
I switched back to my previously used Tuning Menu Slot 2.
I started to drive and boom, disconnect.

OK, I turned off the Ps5 and the Wheelbase too.
Fired them both back up and first thing I did BEFORE launching the game I selected Tuning Menu Slot 5.

I booted up the Game and drove as it never have bugged.
Not a single disconnect after 2hours of constant driving.
OK let's try turning menu slot 2 again, guess what... after a couple of corners it disconnected.

So that was the moment I realized that it must be related to some software issue within the Wheelbase Tuning Menu.

Next thing I did, I did a hard reset on the Tuning Menu by holding down the menu button until the Wheel displayed RST.
So now everything was back to Factory Settings within all of the 5 available Tuning Menu Slots.

I dialed in Slot 1 for ACC as before
Slot 2 for Motorfest / same slot as prior
Slot 3 for GT7 / same slot as prior

And finally ALL of the disconnections across each individual Slot have vanished.
I tried every game with its dialed in settings and no more bugs at all.

So, to sum it up Fanatec definitely have messed up something with their Tuning menu software algorithm.

I'm no expert but I'm absolutely convinced that this has to be addressed. @SimRacer925
I just hope that it doesn't return, if so I'll hard reset the tuning menu again, but it would just be a momentarily solution.

So until 457 hasn't hit the shelfes this will be my solution in case it happens again.
Assuming 457 will have this addressed, I'm quite sure that it will be history.

BTW, I recorded this little clip with my phone just an hour ago... Enjoy the ride, these twisties are made for the DD+
The FFB feels amazing and the driving experience is very real. So natural very much like driving in real life.
It just flows 😀



Thats GREAT news and well done for finding a solution - we all appreciate your efforts! As you say, hopefully 457 will address all of these issues....and not introduce new ones!!!
 
Thats GREAT news and well done for finding a solution - we all appreciate your efforts! As you say, hopefully 457 will address all of these issues....and not introduce new ones!!!
Yes we should all hope that Driver 457 will be the holy grale.
Because the DD+ is just an outstanding piece of kit.
And hopefully PD is working on finally implementing at least ITM support.

As someone who only drives in Cockpit View and no HUD in every game it would be definitely a game changer.

What I'm very curious about is how FullForce will be implemented and how it will effect the FFB experience.

Motorfest for example is using a very very interesting approach in letting you set up and customize the Wheel experience.

You basically have 3 different sliders to adjust.
The first one is for the physical Weight simulation of the FFB Signal.
The second one is for the actual turning resistance or the Wheel damper.
And the 3rd one is kind of a road texture, suspension, tires and engine/ transmission effects simulation.

Especially the last one mentioned could be used extremely well with FULLFORCE.

This Wheelbase is technically so far ahead of what current software is capable, it's just insane.

FullForce could be THE game changer and to me it is a highly anticipated feature which can't come soon enough.

BTW these are my settings for Motorfest :

Tuning Menu Settings
Sen: Auto
FFB : 100
NDP : 30
NFR: Off
NIN: Off
Int: 8
Everything else is default.

In game settings :
FFB: 60
Damper: 0
Vibration : 20
Acceleration Linearity : 60
Brake Linearity : 60

The FFB feels amazing and driving the cars is very natural and extremely fun.
Of course it's no ACC in terms of fidelity.
I would put it somewhere like GT7 but with a way way better feel for tire slip angle.
You can really feel the edge of the tire grip and when it's about to loose grip.
Weight transfer is simulated on par with GT7. Just incredible.
Very detailed and every car feels very different.
FR FF MR and AWD are well simulated and differences are obvious and immediately noticeable.

What I also like a lot is the fact to fine tune the linearity for Acceleration, Brake and Clutch.

YouTube Videos are 101% absolutely NO representative of how good this game feels with a Wheel.
No driving Assists at all provide an incredible authentic recreation of actually sitting behind a wheel.

At the end of the day it's an arcade racer or a decent simulation. It all depends on how you set it up.
 
@PirovacBoy With all your trials and tribulations lately on the DD+, I've been meaning to ask you. Now that you've sorted out your frequent disconnect issue, do you feel a difference between the DD Pro and the DD+ in terms of what you feel on the wheel turning in the pits or game menus?
Here's what I'm feeling:
In GT7 and ACC, if I'm in the pits and turn the wheel while stopped, the DD Pro just feels like there's a rubber like resistance. To me, that feels normal.
Using the DD+ doing the same thing, I feel a low frequency vibration on the wheel. The wheel doesn't shake or anything like that, but I feel the low frequency buzz on my hands. At dead center, there's nothing to feel, but as soon as I turn left or right, I feel it. It hasn't affected driving, but it's a feeling I'm not used to. Upon doing some research, it appears the DD1/2 bases have "TORQUE RIPPLE", which is something those bases have had to live with since day 1, but the new DD and DD+ "allegedly" have reduced "torque ripple". Is that what I'm feeling? Are you feeling the same thing?
 
OK Folks quick update the disconnection bug is back and my workaround doesn't do the trick anymore.
So it must have been some placebo effect or just luck.
So from now on it's just pure lottery if it works or not.
I'm running out of ideas.
Been testing today for hours trying to break it down to a specific point...unfortunately I came to the conclusion that this bug happens absolutely random.
It even happened while being on the home screen and not even playing anything actually.
So the only help should be the Driver/Firmware update.

Very very annoying 🙄

@FMW my Wheel feels absolutely smooth when turning it being in the pits.
No buzz or hum.
Might be down to interpolation values I'm not sure.
But anyway I don't feel anything close to what you ve described, be it GT7 or ACC or Motorfest.
 
@FMW - On the torque ripple, I'd try setting NDP, NFR, and NIN to zero and see if it goes away. It might just be the NDP setting, and you might just be feeling the normal amount of torque ripple. It isn't bad on this wheelbase but there is some. I feel it a little, but maybe I'm used to it or maybe it's worse on yours. I think the NFR setting is bugged and causes problems too, I think I remember Maurice saying something about that on the Fanatec forum. Not sure of 457 is going to address any of those issues.
 
OK Folks quick update the disconnection bug is back and my workaround doesn't do the trick anymore.
So it must have been some placebo effect or just luck.
So from now on it's just pure lottery if it works or not.
I'm running out of ideas.
Been testing today for hours trying to break it down to a specific point...unfortunately I came to the conclusion that this bug happens absolutely random.
It even happened while being on the home screen and not even playing anything actually.
So the only help should be the Driver/Firmware update.

Very very annoying 🙄

@FMW my Wheel feels absolutely smooth when turning it being in the pits.
No buzz or hum.
Might be down to interpolation values I'm not sure.
But anyway I don't feel anything close to what you ve described, be it GT7 or ACC or Motorfest.
Sorry to hear that but lets hope a combination of Fanatec firmware / PD updates resolves these sort of issues. Don't think its long before we see 457 released - fingers crossed!
 


Great video, I started with his settings for GT7 and tuned to my liking as soon as I got my DD+ and can’t recommend enough as well as the hard work put into the fanalabs profiles by Maurice for PC AC & ACC. I absolutely love it

Just to share here as well since it’s GT7 mainly and helpful
 
OK Folks quick update the disconnection bug is back and my workaround doesn't do the trick anymore.
So it must have been some placebo effect or just luck.
So from now on it's just pure lottery if it works or not.
I'm running out of ideas.
Been testing today for hours trying to break it down to a specific point...unfortunately I came to the conclusion that this bug happens absolutely random.
It even happened while being on the home screen and not even playing anything actually.
So the only help should be the Driver/Firmware update.

Very very annoying 🙄

@FMW my Wheel feels absolutely smooth when turning it being in the pits.
No buzz or hum.
Might be down to interpolation values I'm not sure.
But anyway I don't feel anything close to what you ve described, be it GT7 or ACC or Motorfest.
Regarding your disconnect issues. Do you frequently disconnect your base from the PS5? The reason why I ask is because I had a similar issue with my DD Pro about six months ago. In my situation, the culprit was a dirty USB connector. When I'm done playing I have to move my rig into another room. Therefore I have to disconnect the wheel base from the PS5 constantly. Well, I was getting a lot of wheelbase disconnects like you've been experiencing. What solved it was cleaning the USB connector from the PS5 side and the cable side with ISOPROPYL alcohol. No disconnects ever since. In my case, I didn't realize connecting and disconnecting the base caused both the port and cable side to get dirty. Just a thought. If you're not doing that, then I'm stumped.
 
BWX
@FMW - On the torque ripple, I'd try setting NDP, NFR, and NIN to zero and see if it goes away. It might just be the NDP setting, and you might just be feeling the normal amount of torque ripple. It isn't bad on this wheelbase but there is some. I feel it a little, but maybe I'm used to it or maybe it's worse on yours. I think the NFR setting is bugged and causes problems too, I think I remember Maurice saying something about that on the Fanatec forum. Not sure of 457 is going to address any of those issues.
I was thinking the same thing. Prior to last night, I had tried messing with NFR and NPR, like you mentioned. No luck. However, I accidentally solved the problem by messing around with something unrelated. A buddy of mine and I were talking about FFB strength as it relates to being able to feel the car properly and being able to go FAST. Specifically, as it relates to ACC and even GT7. The topic came about because of this video:

Anyway, I decided to up my FFB in GT7 to see if my lap times would improve or if I’d simply improve consistency. I was currently running the wheelbase FFB at 70% and the In Game Torque at 4 and Steering Sensitivity at 8. I bumped the FFB to 75%. Went on track to do a time trial event and my consistency improved with the FFB being bumped up 5%. My overall pace also improved. The curious thing form that little exercise was that the “torque ripple” had SIGNIFICANLTY been reduced to the point where I could not tell if it was even present anymore. Even turning the wheel in pause, in the pits or out of game itself, the ripple was gone.

This made me curious. Did raising the FFB make the ripple go away? Nah. Can’t be that simple! I run ACC at full FFB at 100%, and I feel the ripple in that game. With that said, I jumped into that game, and for laughs and giggles went on track. The grain was there, so I went to the game options then raised the GAIN FFB from 38 to 45, and bam! The grainy ripple feeling was gone! WTF!?? 2 for 2!

This leads me to believe that running the base too low has a side effect that I didn’t expect or realize. That grainy feeling is obnoxious. It detracts from the overall driving experience. Anyway, I think these higher-powered bases don’t necessarily like to be run at a lower power level. They maybe distort the FFB signal in some way? It’s like having a high-powered amplifier and high-powered speaker system that’s 500 amps, but you play the music at level 3. You will likely hear distortion. Pump up the volume to 9 or 10 and you will hear a clean music signal.

After this accidental discovery, I’m thinking the DD+ is likely best run at the higher spectrum of its overall power output. Maybe future firmware will let people run the bases at a lower power level, but for me, I don’t think I would ever go back to running the power even at the middle of its overall potential. The sweet spot seems to be the upper power level.

Hope this helps anyone who is experiencing the same grainy ripple feeling. Glad it’s 99% gone!
 
@FMW That's crazy! I do wonder if it has to do with something going on in FW that might fixed or ironed out with FW updates. I'm all over the place with my settings on wheel and in games. Pretty much for every car I end up with something different. I may try different "philosophies", such as a high sensitivity setting in GT7, or lower, higher FFB on wheel, lower in game, or the other way around, middle FFB in game and on wheel, etc.. Just all over the place right now.

I usually don't care about overall pace but trying to get it to feel like I think the real car would feel, correct or not. LOL It seems like with all the setting available, you can end up with an almost infinite number of different overall setting profiles.

Just to share here as well since it’s GT7 mainly and helpful

I like the way he describes it, I've been watching pretty much everyone's settings videos I can find, and every time I try their settings they feel great even if they're different from each other. It's hard to get this wheelbase to feel "bad" really unless you go to one extreme or the other on an important setting. But the best lap I ever did in a time trial was after trying this guy's settings that used a INT 1 and Sensitivity slider in GT7 at 10. I can't find the video on youtube, I'm sure it's there, just won't come up in a search. It was during the Ford roadster Grand Valley online TT and I had my best result in any TT using his settings.

This is from the vid you posted:
gt dd x settings 4-19-24 IMG_4597.jpeg


... and I'll be checking them out too. 😅


FMW
Regarding your disconnect issues. Do you frequently disconnect your base from the PS5? The reason why I ask is because I had a similar issue with my DD Pro about six months ago. In my situation, the culprit was a dirty USB connector. When I'm done playing I have to move my rig into another room. Therefore I have to disconnect the wheel base from the PS5 constantly. Well, I was getting a lot of wheelbase disconnects like you've been experiencing. What solved it was cleaning the USB connector from the PS5 side and the cable side with ISOPROPYL alcohol. No disconnects ever since. In my case, I didn't realize connecting and disconnecting the base caused both the port and cable side to get dirty. Just a thought. If you're not doing that, then I'm stumped.
And I also wonder if having the wheel connected when you power on the PS5 makes any difference, or "logging in" before you start GT7 rather than when already in game. Stuff like that, that shouldn't really matter, but might with the current support level for this wheel by Fanatec FW and also GT7's support for the wheel.
 
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BWX
@FMW That's crazy! I do wonder if it has to do with something going on in FW that might fixed or ironed out with FW updates. I'm all over the place with my settings on wheel and in games. Pretty much for every car I end up with something different. I may try different "philosophies", such as a high sensitivity setting in GT7, or lower, higher FFB on wheel, lower in game, or the other way around, middle FFB in game and on wheel, etc.. Just all over the place right now.

I usually don't care about overall pace but trying to get it to feel like I think the real car would feel, correct or not. LOL It seems like with all the setting available, you can end up with an almost infinite number of different overall setting profiles.



I like the way he describes it, I've been watching pretty much everyone's settings videos I can find, and every time I try their settings they feel great even if they're different from each other. It's hard to get this wheelbase to feel "bad" really unless you go to one extreme or the other on an important setting. But the best lap I ever did in a time trial was after trying this guy's settings that used a INT 1 and Sensitivity slider in GT7 at 10. I can't find the video on youtube, I'm sure it's there, just won't come up in a search. It was during the Ford roadster Grand Valley online TT and I had my best result in any TT using his settings.

This is from the vid you posted:
View attachment 1348292

... and I'll be checking them out too. 😅
@BWX I know right!? I was beside myself for weeks regarding the "grainy/torque ripple" feel. I was convinced my base needed another RMA, on top of the "whine/whistle" sound I'm still waiting to hear back on from the support team. Anyway, I agree. I think and hope future firmware make it so you can go down on FFB strength, but for now, this seems to be an excellent work around. :D
 
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@PirovacBoy what kind of disconnects are you getting? Is it like the disconnect with 456 where the base itself hangs and has to be power cycled off then on? Or just a controller disconnect? I experienced a disconnect this evening, I was in the menus and was powering on my VR headset when I saw the usb controller disconnected notification. I just pressed the PS button to log in again then did 4 of the weekly challenges without any issues. By the way I’m using your settings, it feels great, much better than the default settings
 
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Is the nerf something you'd feel if you never use 100% FFB? I wonder if I just compensated for it by just upping the overall FFB in game or on wheel. I noticed the wheel felt more like my GT DD Pro 8nm after that nerf update, but I mess around with setting so much I almost forgot about it. Something is missing compared to before but I can't quite pinpoint what exactly is missing. To me it feels like the FFB doesn't ramp up as much or as fast in GT7 as before the nerf.
 
@PirovacBoy what kind of disconnects are you getting? Is it like the disconnect with 456 where the base itself hangs and has to be power cycled off then on? Or just a controller disconnect? I experienced a disconnect this evening, I was in the menus and was powering on my VR headset when I saw the usb controller disconnected notification. I just pressed the PS button to log in again then did 4 of the weekly challenges without any issues. By the way I’m using your settings, it feels great, much better than the default settings
Loss of FFB and shifter paddles not responding.
Funky switch doing ghost inputs.
Oled Display not showing anything or just a random gear number or velocity value.
Sometimes the FFB comes back and Paddles, but the Wheel Display stays blank.
But eventually it breaks down again and I have to powered it off and on.
Sometimes 10 or more times, unless I just give up and shut it off.
At this point the Wheelbase is useless.
I'm currently just waiting for 457.

Sometimes I can play for hours, and today for example it was just a pita.
I tried anything...

But anyway, just very strange that it developed after 5 or 6 weeks without a single issue and grew into this disastrous situation.
 
BWX
Is the nerf something you'd feel if you never use 100% FFB? I wonder if I just compensated for it by just upping the overall FFB in game or on wheel. I noticed the wheel felt more like my GT DD Pro 8nm after that nerf update, but I mess around with setting so much I almost forgot about it. Something is missing compared to before but I can't quite pinpoint what exactly is missing. To me it feels like the FFB doesn't ramp up as much or as fast in GT7 as before the nerf.
I’d imagine so, you just would have to be more sensitive. I can tell the difference between 4 and 6oz and 50 and 55lbs(etc) so it was pretty dramatic. Also, it 15nm seems to be the threshold where my brain really bought the ffb in vr. The loss of intensity and softening(?) of the gradients has led the ffb of gt7 to be very disappointing compared to pre 1.43.

The wheel is great. Don’t get me wrong. Just not what it was and can be.

Ps. Ive always run the wheel at 100

Pps. My gripes are with feeling tire directionality, suspension loads, while maintaining a realistic wheel weight in various scenarios.
 
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