Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

[Abarth_71]

Hi, I've been following this thread for a while now and I think you're the best person to ask my question.

I recently bought a GT DD Pro with the CSL Elite V3 pedals and the McLaren GT3 wheel after using a Thrustmaster T300RS for about a year. I dialed in your settings from a few posts ago (will try the settings above later today) and, while the wheel feels great, I'm having quite a lot of difficulties adapting to the Fanatec.

I feel like I need to turn my wheel much much more to actually get the car to turn. I already dialed in the sensitivity but it gets to the point that I need to adjust it for every car I drive. This is my main issue with the wheel and it's limiting my enjoyment of it at the moment. I'm actually debating with myself if I should buy a regular round Fanatec wheel and that the McLaren wheel wasn't the best choice.

Do you have any tips for me to get this to work properly? I'm using the wheel with GT7 on my PlayStation 5. Thank you so so much!

P.s.: maybe good to know but I haven't updated the firmware of the base, pedals and wheel since I got it (beginning of March 2023). Mainly because I don't have a PC, but a Mac

TBH leave the sensitivity set to auto, it'll stop you having to change it every time. The only times my hands really cross are at hairpin corners and I use the McLaren wheel all the time.
Can you borrow a windows laptop as I'd advise updating the firmware if you can. Luckily I've got an older Mac that I can run windows on.

 

[ron24]

Question for you guys. I've just ordered the GT Omega Prime Lite rig. I'd like to route the cables as out of site as possible but have a feeling the pedal cable might be a bit too short for this so am thinking I should buy a longer RJ12 cable in readiness. Has anyone done this on a similar sized rig, and was the standard cable long enough?

Cheers.

I have build several rigs that size and the stock cable isn't long enough. Here's what I got. 10ft cables.

 

[Nathaniel_Wu]

Hi, I've been following this thread for a while now and I think you're the best person to ask my question.

I recently bought a GT DD Pro with the CSL Elite V3 pedals and the McLaren GT3 wheel after using a Thrustmaster T300RS for about a year. I dialed in your settings from a few posts ago (will try the settings above later today) and, while the wheel feels great, I'm having quite a lot of difficulties adapting to the Fanatec.

I feel like I need to turn my wheel much much more to actually get the car to turn. I already dialed in the sensitivity but it gets to the point that I need to adjust it for every car I drive. This is my main issue with the wheel and it's limiting my enjoyment of it at the moment. I'm actually debating with myself if I should buy a regular round Fanatec wheel and that the McLaren wheel wasn't the best choice.

Do you have any tips for me to get this to work properly? I'm using the wheel with GT7 on my PlayStation 5. Thank you so so much!

P.s.: maybe good to know but I haven't updated the firmware of the base, pedals and wheel since I got it (beginning of March 2023). Mainly because I don't have a PC, but a Mac

For GT7 and GT Sport, just leave sensitivity to AUTO, the games have soft locks.

 

[Abarth_71]

I have build several rigs that size and the stock cable isn't long enough. Here's what I got. 10ft cables.

Thought so, thanks for confirming.

 

[Pixelatic]

TBH leave the sensitivity set to auto, it'll stop you having to change it every time. The only times my hands really cross are at hairpin corners and I use the McLaren wheel all the time.
Can you borrow a windows laptop as I'd advise updating the firmware if you can. Luckily I've got an older Mac that I can run windows on.

Chiming in to say that, with the settings you posted a few days ago, my issues with the wheel are mostly gone! I've just made a few tweaks to prevent some of the twitchiness, but it feels great now. I've also ordered a QR-1 because I don't want to deal with the electrical tape and such.

Thanks again!

 

[Daz555]

I feel like I need to turn my wheel much much more to actually get the car to turn. I already dialed in the sensitivity but it gets to the point that I need to adjust it for every car I drive. This is my main issue with the wheel and it's limiting my enjoyment of it at the moment. I'm actually debating with myself if I should buy a regular round Fanatec wheel and that the McLaren wheel wasn't the best choice.

Do you have any tips for me to get this to work properly? I'm using the wheel with GT7 on my PlayStation 5. Thank you so so much!

P.s.: maybe good to know but I haven't updated the firmware of the base, pedals and wheel since I got it (beginning of March 2023). Mainly because I don't have a PC, but a Mac

Auto should work for GT7 and any other modern game. If yours is not working then perhaps it is down to firmware. Borrow someone's laptop for an hour and get the wheelbase, rim and pedals updated.

 

[m19hem]

Hey guys my order arrived today but didn't have the 90w power supply in the box ? I bought the upgraded 180w supply separate but surely I should have had the 90 power supply in the box with the base,wheel,peddles. Are they supposed to supply the original ?

 

[super_gt]

Hey guys my order arrived today but didn't have the 90w power supply in the box ? I bought the upgraded 180w supply separate but surely I should have had the 90 power supply in the box with the base,wheel,peddles. Are they supposed to supply the original ?

When you go to the page of the product you bought, there is a list with what is included at the bottom.
As far as I understand with these two bundles the 90W power supply is not included.

Gran Turismo DD Pro (8 Nm)

The official Direct Drive Wheel for Gran Turismo®. Combining PlayStation®5 console performance with FANATEC® Direct Drive technology for the smoothest and most dynamic force feedback sensations. Package includes steering wheel, wheel base, pedals, and Boost Kit 180.

fanatec.com

Gran Turismo DD Pro Premium Bundle

The official Direct Drive Wheel for Gran Turismo®. Combining PlayStation®5 console performance with FANATEC® Direct Drive technology for the smoothest and most dynamic force feedback sensations. Premium Bundle includes steering wheel, wheel base, pedals, Boost Kit 180, and CSL Pedals Load Cell Kit.

fanatec.com

 

[Abarth_71]

The standard PSU isn't included in the bundle with boost kit.

 

[m19hem]

The standard PSU isn't included in the bundle with boost kit.

Yeah miss read it. Was reading a forum that a guy was using both his 5nm and 8 nm guessing he brought the original version then purchased the boost kit after.

 

[ron24]

The tape did not last very long.
How is the metal trick working out?

Update #2 4/1/23 not a joke, noise is back. Frustrating. Looks like I be calling Endor Mon morning for 2 CS quick releases. UPDATE. This fixed my noise. The metal wasn't enough. Still had that noise. This fixed it, I did a second layer of metal and two way scotch tape. So it has two layers of metal and two way scotch tape. It's very snug but slides off and on tight but good. Going to do some races today hoping it fixes it. $1000 wheel setup shouldn't be doing this. I'm a long time Fanatec supporter. Since the Porsche 911 GT2 wheel. Might need to go the rout you guys went with the quick release. Has anyone contacted Fanatec about this? I will be.

 

[ron24]

Anyone have any good settings for The Crew 2 and Forza MS 7 and Forza Horizon 5?

 

[ron24]

I figured out you can use a Usb C to C to the ps5 no problems. or regular Usb C to the Ps5 or Pc. Fanatec's wire not needed. Also if you need longer shifter/pedal cables these work great 10ft.

 

[whiskeypit]

Just for information:
There are users in the forum who claim that the force feedback feels different again since today's update 1.31 in GT7 (one with Logitech G29, one with Fanatec CSL Elite). Unfortunately I won't be able to test the whole thing until the weekend.
The one with the Logitech G29 says he had to increase his ForceFeedback in the game significantly compared to the previous setting before the update.

 

[Abarth_71]

There was nothing in the patch notes about changes for wheel users but who knows. I'm running max FFB on the wheel already and 5 in game, any higher supposedly results in clipping. Going to try it out this afternoon.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Big change in FFB.
Like really really big difference.
It feels like 1.13 or was it 1.15 where everyone said that the details were superb, but the overall FFB was too low, but this time the FFB Signal is very strong.
So overall I can say now we have the best of both Worlds.
Well done PD good Job 👍

 

[m19hem]

Big change in FFB.
Like really really big difference.
It feels like 1.13 or was it 1.15 where everyone said that the details were superb, but the overall FFB was too low, but this time the FFB Signal is very strong.
So overall I can say now we have the best of both Worlds.
Well done PD good Job 👍

So is it safe to update to the new patch as the previous one and profile settings was pretty sweet. Have been using both yours and Abarth's settings and afraid to update it just incase it screws everything up like the previous updates.

 

[Abarth_71]

So is it safe to update to the new patch as the previous one and profile settings was pretty sweet. Have been using both yours and Abarth's settings and afraid to update it just incase it screws everything up like the previous updates.

I'm just about to find out how it feels. I'll post if I make any changes.

 

[PirovacBoy]

So is it safe to update to the new patch as the previous one and profile settings was pretty sweet. Have been using both yours and Abarth's settings and afraid to update it just incase it screws everything up like the previous updates.

Sure, go for the update.
But prepare yourself for a huge difference.
The increase in Details and Torque differences are very pronounced.

 

[whiskeypit]

So is it safe to update to the new patch as the previous one and profile settings was pretty sweet. Have been using both yours and Abarth's settings and afraid to update it just incase it screws everything up like the previous updates.

You need to update the game, otherwise you only can play music rally

 

[m19hem]

You need to update the game, otherwise you only can play music rally

Ok so it's a ps GT7 Game update. Thought this was a Fanatec update 🤦🏽‍♂️

 

[YZRider926]

That’s good to hear. I actually didn’t start using this wheel until the 1.15 update. I agree that it did feel better feedback wise with less strength. This sounds promising.

 

[Abarth_71]

Been playing for a while and the only change I've made is to increase NFR to 10 for a bit more weight in the corners.

 

[RS60NR]

first impressions, my DD Pro settings are still good, but added 1 to NFR & NIN to go to 6 each for a bit more heft. Still on LINEAR and its strong enough, but the low forces seem to have gotten a noticeable boost - curbs and road surface and such. I think the PEAK setting takes energy from the lower end forces to give more strength to the higher forces so now going to give PEAK a try again.

Also trail braking seems easier - not so much abrupt steering loss under braking - and engine torque effect while down shifting in turns seems eased as well.

Race tire grip is reduced as well wear - RMs feel like RH used to. Street tires feel a bit less stiff so a bit more lively.

Overall I’m seeing this as an improvement so far

 

[Nathaniel_Wu]

Sure, go for the update.
But prepare yourself for a huge difference.
The increase in Details and Torque differences are very pronounced.

have you got the chance to tweak the settings?

 

[kembro]

My settings felt excellent today, on the Spa 24hr.
Really enjoying the weight shifting on the front end and extra curb feel on the apex. The rumble, before the tyre slips in understeer seems better as well.

 

[ebizoe]

first impressions, my DD Pro settings are still good, but added 1 to NFR & NIN to go to 6 each for a bit more heft. Still on LINEAR and its strong enough, but the low forces seem to have gotten a noticeable boost - curbs and road surface and such. I think the PEAK setting takes energy from the lower end forces to give more strength to the higher forces so now going to give PEAK a try again.

Also trail braking seems easier - not so much abrupt steering loss under braking - and engine torque effect while down shifting in turns seems eased as well.

Race tire grip is reduced as well wear - RMs feel like RH used to. Street tires feel a bit less stiff so a bit more lively.

Overall I’m seeing this as an improvement so far

question to All yet correlated to your post... RS: is it really the FFB nature we reckon has changed (as an undocumented one with 1.31) or more the result of suspension physics and tyres changes that influenced our perception on FFB behavior ?

 

[Nightwing24]

question to All yet correlated to your post... RS: is it really the FFB nature we reckon has changed (as an undocumented one with 1.31) or more the result of suspension physics and tyres changes that influenced our perception on FFB behavior ?

Just had this discussion adding my point of view in a different thread. I agree it’s not FFB, but the physics change;

On 8nm DD Pro as well and agree.

I’d go further and add the difference in FFB in wheels we are feeling seems to me to be 2 things, both connected to adding unsprung car weight into the physics when they seem to have been absent before, rather than changing FFB itself:

1- wheels now feel more “real” via the steering where before they felt “fake” and had no realistic weight feel as you do while trying to overcome the friction of rubber on tarmac to turn the wheel.

2- the weight of the car and it’s balance of weight transfer is now communicating via steering FFB. Before we had the total weight of the car to turn but with new physics it seems to me we now have the play and balance of top car weight dancing with the balance of the unsprung car weight now affecting momentum much closer to reality.

 

[RS60NR]

Just had this discussion adding my point of view in a different thread. I agree it’s not FFB, but the physics change;

Agree its mostly physics - tires and suspension. But I feel slight change in FFB bumping up low forces abit so just a really minor tweak to my settings. Weight transfer was previously most noticeable in older road cars on comfort tires, but race tires and suspension was too stiff to feel much - now its been adjusted and refined.

 

[FMW]

I'll add to this since I was able to do some testing last night after loading the patch. Firstly, I am using the DD Pro with boost kit and Fanatec V3 pedals. I don’t use the plastic fantastic, licensed GT PRO wheel. I bought the base by itself then slapped on my trusty Fanatec BMW GT V2 rim with metal QR1. With that said, for sure, the FFB is much improved. Like PirovacBoy stated earlier, it’s like what PD did in version 1.13, but in my opinion, better! You can feel the curbs now and you can feel them much more consistently. You can also feel the little nuanced spikes in FFB forces at slow speeds. I couldn’t before this patch. The road feel felt flat before. Yes, a lot of this is due to physics, tire and suspension changes PD implemented this time, but those changes alone don’t increase FFB strength. Feel for sure, but not strength…Maybe to a degree…

Anyway, there is something people may know or not know. The improved FFB feel/strength may vary depending on your set up. My buddy and I belong to a GT7 racing league. For comparison sake, we jumped into a race lobby from our last round, since we had recent muscle memory from that event. Curious thing happened…he did not feel much difference in the FFB feel as it came to the curbs. In fact, he said, “I don’t feel anything”. I found that odd as I noticed a significant and noticeable difference. So, I had him load my Fanatec wheelbase settings to compare apples to apples. I currently use PirvovacBoy’s wheelbase settings. He said he could barely feel the curbs. He uses the boost kit as well, so I knew it wasn’t an 8nM vs 5nM thing. Then it struck me. He’s using the plastic fantastic GT Pro wheel rim with the plastic coupler. I’m convinced people who are using the plastic coupler and plastic wheel are losing some or significant detail/strength because of the flex in the plastic quick release and plastic wheel. It’s a theory we are testing this weekend when he comes over to try my rig.

Also, in case no one has mentioned it. The two in game wheel settings have changed. That being Force Feedback Max Torque and Force Feedback Sensitivity. Pre-Update, I was using FFMT: 5 and FFS: 6. I believe PirovacBoy uses 5/1 (which works for me too depending on car) That being said, these values need to be changed as they seem too strong and obtrusive. As of last night, I’m at 4/1

Last thoughts…

Trail braking…much easier to do consistently. =)

Cars tend to have less grip on throttle, which I love! No more stabbing the throttle exiting mid corner. That was so unrealistic to me.

Cars tend to have a slight understeer. =)

Cars seem to have more weight on them.

Cars seem to have more nuanced low speed bounce to them, but that’s probably the physics tweaks.

I really hope PD doesn’t change the FFB in any future “fixes”. IMO, the feel on this latest update has woken up the game a lot. It’s a welcome change and a happy medium to what ACC on PS5 offers, which I also play a lot on.

Cheers!