Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

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220
Germany
Germany
@Zipperface do you have newer settings?
hi, sry for the delay, i didnt noticed that im not banned(reason was that i sayd my opinion to the fast&furious movis) anymore.

have not changed this settigs now for couple of months. to me, it feels good. personal sweetspot arrived.
there are 2 main settings, one race setting and one drift setting that i use on all games and platforms. pc, xbox, ps4* *via drivehub
i just change ffb strenght ingame to reach clipping point(13nm peak). wheel settings i didnt touch anymore.

race setting:
SEN 1170°
FFB 52
LIN off
NDP 75
NFR off
NIN off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR off
DPR off
BLI off
SHO off
BRF 90

drift setting:
SEN 900
FFB 50
LIN off
NDP 40
NFR off
NIN off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 10
BLI off
SHO off
BRF max
 
176
Australia
Sydney, Australia
Apart from the above from Zipperface, does anyone have any updated (firmware 400+) settings for the PS4 DD for GT Sport, F1 2020, or Dirt 2.0?

All the "recommended" Fanatec settings are pre-LIN/etc.
 
12
Australia
Australia
Apart from the above from Zipperface, does anyone have any updated (firmware 400+) settings for the PS4 DD for GT Sport, F1 2020, or Dirt 2.0?

All the "recommended" Fanatec settings are pre-LIN/etc.
Try this for GT Sport. Should give you a good base to work from. I tried to get as much detail as I could get from GT sport without the wheel getting too notchy and spiky.

FFB:22
LIN:embarrassed:ff
NDP:20
NFR:embarrassed:ff
NIN:embarrassed:ff
INT:5
FEI:100
FOR:100
SPR:embarrassed:FF
DPR:50
SHO:100
BRF:60

game settings
Controller: 7 (no idea if this matters)
Ffb Max torque: 5
Ffb sensitivity: 10 (lowest ingame damping setting. We want the detail!)

Lower FOR to 90 for less spikes if need be and increase INT to smoothen the notches out to your own taste.

Hope this helps
 
176
Australia
Sydney, Australia
I made a quick DIY power switch while I wait for my e-stop & LED power switch parts to arrive.

Mounted to a 4040 corner bracket (and yes it’s off centre!)

it works well, so I’m confident the final version will be good (and only cost $20)
 

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11
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Try this for GT Sport. Should give you a good base to work from. I tried to get as much detail as I could get from GT sport without the wheel getting too notchy and spiky.

FFB:22
LIN:embarrassed:ff
NDP:20
NFR:embarrassed:ff
NIN:embarrassed:ff
INT:5
FEI:100
FOR:100
SPR:embarrassed:FF
DPR:50
SHO:100
BRF:60

game settings
Controller: 7 (no idea if this matters)
Ffb Max torque: 5
Ffb sensitivity: 10 (lowest ingame damping setting. We want the detail!)

Lower FOR to 90 for less spikes if need be and increase INT to smoothen the notches out to your own taste.

Hope this helps
I've recently upgraded from a CSL Elite, and am now running on your settings :)
I'm assuming that they are based on having the Torque Key inserted in the back?

Any updates or are you still running the above?

Many thanks
Nick
 
1,465
United States
Illinois
rkzjb04
I made a quick DIY power switch while I wait for my e-stop & LED power switch parts to arrive.
Mounted to a 4040 corner bracket (and yes it’s off centre!)
it works well, so I’m confident the final version will be good (and only cost $20)
Really nice! A kill switch isn’t expensive, yet some marketing major decided there was money to be made. Is it common knowledge about which wires are used for the kill switch going into the DD?
I've recently upgraded from a CSL Elite, and am now running on your settings :)
I'm assuming that they are based on having the Torque Key inserted in the back?
. . .
Many thanks
Nick
I have used these settings also. I can attest that the torque key should be inserted. I have a larger diameter wheel (35cm), so I have the force feedback at 35 IPO 22. The main difference I found interesting about the set up is that the force feedback linearity is ‘off’. Of course, with the last software update this became default ‘on’. Setting it to ’0ff’ is a big difference to the set up that I was previously using with ffb linearity ‘on’. I definitely like it.
 
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12
Australia
Australia
I've recently upgraded from a CSL Elite, and am now running on your settings :)
I'm assuming that they are based on having the Torque Key inserted in the back?

Any updates or are you still running the above?

Many thanks
Nick
Yes, I use the torque key.
Increase or lower the FFB to your liking. It also varies car to car I've found.

I have used these settings also. I can attest that the torque key should be inserted. I have a larger diameter wheel (35cm), so I have the force feedback at 35 IPO 22. The main difference I found interesting about the set up is that the force feedback linearity is ‘off’. Of course, with the last software update this became default ‘on’. Setting it to ’0ff’ is a big difference to the set up that I was previously using with ffb linearity ‘on’. I definitely like it
I was driving with linearity on for a long time. It was OK. Never really thought anything was wrong with it. Then one time I noticed someone recommending having it off. As soon as I changed over I found I could feel the road more and the car just felt more real in my hands. I liked it.

I will say to everyone. Test out all the different parameters on the wheel one by one and get a feel for what each setting does. Go high and then low with each setting. You'll know straight away if you like or hate a feel a certain setting gives you. Everyone is different so you may end up with settings different from mine which is OK. As long as you are happy with what you feel. Happy driving.
 
916
Germany
Rego Park - Germany
PRO_TOO
Really nice! A kill switch isn’t expensive, yet some marketing major decided there was money to be made. Is it common knowledge about which wires are used for the kill switch going into the DD?

I have used these settings also. I can attest that the torque key should be inserted. I have a larger diameter wheel (35cm), so I have the force feedback at 35 IPO 22. The main difference I found interesting about the set up is that the force feedback linearity is ‘off’. Of course, with the last software update this became default ‘on’. Setting it to ’0ff’ is a big difference to the set up that I was previously using with ffb linearity ‘on’. I definitely like it.
thats one of the first things i did, when i started using my Podium like 2-3 month ago.
i read a lot of settings comments at the fanatec forums or other places... and a lot of users advice to turn linearity off, for a more detailed FFB expirience! ...and it makes sense!
i am racing in ACC and AC on PS5 only.
 
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1,465
United States
Illinois
rkzjb04
i dont want to disassemble my F1 Podium wheel but maybe i'm better of that way. just taking the F1 rim off (the one with the blue grips) and install another rim to the Podium QR plus APM (d-shape GT or GT3). that would be much cheaper. but i'm not sure if i want to tinker with those valueable wheels and mix and match parts of it... hm!

but as i'm not a pro by now and dont switch wheels that often (never probably) maybe thats the way to go. the F1 Podioum would lay around for nothing if i'm satisfied with a good GT3 or GT Alcantara wheel. and thats a lot of euros laying around.

another option would be just selling the complete F1 Podium (its like new) for around 500 euro and take that money to get the Porsche 911 GT3 R (while spending 150 euro extra on that).

i'm really not sure and would appriciate some input and thoughts from you guys again! 😉
(I thought a drag this over to this DD forum as the M4 wheel forum wasn’t exactly fitting). Much of how you describe your wheel situation fits with my experience. I have the F1 DD1 but do not use the F1 wheel much. I should sell it but just can’t pull the trigger. I have a 35cm GT wheel (aftermarket, something like $40) mated with the podium hub and ClubSport magnetic paddle module. This is my favorite set up that I run 95% of the time as I love street cars and some Gr4. (Believe it or not, I started with the advanced magnetic paddle module and then ‘downgraded’ to the clubsport! But the clubsport is better suited to bigger wheel/rims, so an upgrade in my eyes!) I also have a 38cm aftermarket classic wheel on Podium hub (no paddles as it’s for vintage cars). I don’t use it often as I should. I have a few other aftermarket wheels with which I’ve experimented but they lay around as they didn’t pass muster. Don’t be afraid to buy a Podium hub and paddle module and experiment with rims. I don’t get the fascination with the small diameter wheels that are typically pushed by the sim manufacturers. We have arm shredding Direct Drives and then pair them with these tiny wheels? Uh, not in my house. I have the Porsche GT3 from Fanatec, bought great condition off eBay, and never used the rim. Bad purchase because only ever used the Podium hub.
@VFOURMAX1
 
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