Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

  • Thread starter super_gt
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I don't doubt there's a tangible difference, but for me there are two issues. Writing off the CSL Elite after 5 or 6 months of use just seems silly, and secondly, the bigger issue I have is the consistency of the CSL Elite Pedals. The load cell design seems to cause me more problems than anything else. Hopefully there's a Podium series pedal in the works that fits the bill. Otherwise I'm kinda leaning to spending on a set of Heusinkvelds.

I am so used to the csl elite pedals, that i have kept them.
If they break someday, I'll think about buying Clubsport V3, but i like to brake using the pedal distance (csl) and not pressure/force. (v3/loadcell)
Hope you guys can understand what I mean.
 
Its not the pedals who are crap, its the game.
Everyone know that Gran Turismo Sport is the worst crap game on console, if it comes to Wheel settings and options.
You cant even adjust simple min/max deadzones for pedals. Or a proper cockpit view, or a FoV slider.

Sorry, I play iRacing almost exclusively now (and still think GT Sport is the best console game), but my issue is definitely the CSL LC pedals. However to be fair, I actually like the pedals' feel and the way they work outside of the perfect foot placement needed with the fulcrum point so high on the pedals. A few millimeters high placement on the pedal and you are adding 10-15% more brake on accident (similarly the same with a low purchase on the pedal). For the longest I thought I had car setup issues, but now I know what the issue was. Aside from that, the pedals are great, but that's a pretty big deal for me.
 
Im sorry, i mixed the both posts above. Tought you talk about GT-S and the problem with the brakepedal. Because there so many people who have problems to reach max brakeforce cause of lack off setup options possibilitys ingame.
 
Little changes since last gt-s patch.
Now little more reactive and more details:)
Understeer rattle is slightly more noticable but thats the price to reach more fined ffb details and some road feel.
Maybe you guys like it too!

gt-s ingame:
strenght 3
sensivity 1

DD1 base:
sen 880°
ffb 64
lin off
ndp 70
nfr 4
nin 20
int 2
fei 100
for 100
spr off
dpr off
abs off
sho off
brf max
 
@Fanatec shop whats wrong with you? :)

300€ rim alone but with hub just for 50€ ??

damn the plus i make with your stocks are getting neutralized with this kind of prices LOL
hjgjhg.jpg
 
Little changes since last gt-s patch.
Now little more reactive and more details:)
Understeer rattle is slightly more noticable but thats the price to reach more fined ffb details and some road feel.
Maybe you guys like it too!

gt-s ingame:
strenght 3
sensivity 1

DD1 base:
sen 880°
ffb 64
lin off
ndp 70
nfr 4
nin 20
int 2
fei 100
for 100
spr off
dpr off
abs off
sho off
brf max

Good setup. I need it for my DD1 PS4 with FormulaV2.
I only changed brf to 40.

Driver Version: 352
Base FW Version: 669
Motor FW Version: 38

Has anyone a good setup with FormulaV2 Rim?
 
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Can anyone post the height of the Podium base? The documentation at the site only lists the dimensions of the packaging which is strange. How much taller is it than the CSW V2? Thanks
 
Im sorry, i mixed the both posts above. Tought you talk about GT-S and the problem with the brakepedal. Because there so many people who have problems to reach max brakeforce cause of lack off setup options possibilitys ingame.

This isn't a problem at all. It's extremely easy to adjust the braking force on a Fanatec wheel base with CSL Elite LC pedal.
 
In Gran Turismo Sport i use this setting:

Fanatec DD1 PS4 - FormulaV2 - Load Cell Brake

Driver Version: 352
Base FW Version: 669
Motor FW Version: 38

SEN: AUTO
FF: 45
LIN: ON
NDP: 60
NFR: 10
NIN: 5
INT: 6
FEI: 70
FOR: 100
SPR: OFF
DPR: OFF
ABS: OFF
SHO: OFF
MPS: AUTO
BRF: 40 LC

In Game: 2 - 5 - 5
 
Thanks for the dimensions of the DD2, it is not that much taller than my V2 so it fit perfectly under my monitor.

I am enjoying the DD2 but I do have a couple of issues. I can't get my Fanatec Formula Carbon wheel to attach to the base. It will go on about 3/4 the way but no further and then trying to get the rim off takes a ton of force even using grease. I contacted support and they mentioned loosening the screws in the QR of the rim and I did that but it didn't help at all. Anyone else able to attach this rim?

Also I can't get the first Dirt Rally to recognize my wheel. It lists the wheel by a generic name and I can map the controls but it still doesn't work in game. I have it set to V2.5 compat mode. It works great in DR 2 but I noticed that I had to be in compat mode in order for my H-Shifter to work correctly. If I set it to PC mode then the gears would not shift correctly, I'd shift to 3rd and it would register 1st, shift 2nd register 4th, and just random sometimes, once I went back to compat mode it started working perfectly.
 
Thanks for the dimensions of the DD2, it is not that much taller than my V2 so it fit perfectly under my monitor.

I am enjoying the DD2 but I do have a couple of issues. I can't get my Fanatec Formula Carbon wheel to attach to the base. It will go on about 3/4 the way but no further and then trying to get the rim off takes a ton of force even using grease. I contacted support and they mentioned loosening the screws in the QR of the rim and I did that but it didn't help at all. Anyone else able to attach this rim?

Also I can't get the first Dirt Rally to recognize my wheel. It lists the wheel by a generic name and I can map the controls but it still doesn't work in game. I have it set to V2.5 compat mode. It works great in DR 2 but I noticed that I had to be in compat mode in order for my H-Shifter to work correctly. If I set it to PC mode then the gears would not shift correctly, I'd shift to 3rd and it would register 1st, shift 2nd register 4th, and just random sometimes, once I went back to compat mode it started working perfectly.
The Formula Carbon should fit the DD2. Please continue to communicate with support and I'm sure they will resolve this for you.

Regarding Dirt Rally, running in COMP V2.5 mode should allow the game to see the base as a ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5, it shouldn't be listed as a generic name. It's important to switch to V2.5 mode before you launch the game. Maybe creating a new profile might help too.
 
@Fanatec Would you like to build Force Feedback Pedals? :)

gas, brake, clutch are direct connected to a servo. no springs or loadcells. This would be revolutionary!!!
imagine the possibilitys of simulating a clutch by forcefeedback! or the brake! and even the gas pedal!
everythink can adjusted in feel and behavior like the dd bases.
diffrent profiles for each car, imagine game devs will support it and every car feels like you would press the pedals in reallife :)

with somethink like this...ffs3.jpg
 
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I always wondered why car manufacturers haven't turned to sim-racing, to make simulated H-shifters for cars with double-clutch/automatic gearboxes or electric cars, thus eliminating the gigantic price premiums for supercars with manual gearboxes (Porsche GT3 Touring, Ferrari 599GTB etc.).
 
@Fanatec Would you like to build Force Feedback Pedals? :)

gas, brake, clutch are direct connected to a servo. no springs or loadcells. This would be revolutionary!!!
imagine the possibilitys of simulating a clutch by forcefeedback! or the brake! and even the gas pedal!
everythink can adjusted in feel and behavior like the dd bases.
diffrent profiles for each car, imagine game devs will support it and every car feels like you would press the pedals in reallife :)

with somethink like this...View attachment 885531

It makes absolutely no sense to use a servo for pedals. It wouldn't feel anything like a pedal does in real life as no car pedal uses servos. It makes much more sense to replicate a proper hydraulic system for brake pedal, and clutch pedal can easily be simulated with correct configuration of springs, as clutches operate via sprung clutch pack. Throttle pedals all operate via normal spring as well.
 
I always wondered why car manufacturers haven't turned to sim-racing, to make simulated H-shifters for cars with double-clutch/automatic gearboxes or electric cars, thus eliminating the gigantic price premiums for supercars with manual gearboxes (Porsche GT3 Touring, Ferrari 599GTB etc.).

Manual gearboxes are BY FAR the cheapest possible gearboxes to make. What world is everyone living in recently haha.
 
It makes absolutely no sense to use a servo for pedals. It wouldn't feel anything like a pedal does in real life as no car pedal uses servos. It makes much more sense to replicate a proper hydraulic system for brake pedal, and clutch pedal can easily be simulated with correct configuration of springs, as clutches operate via sprung clutch pack. Throttle pedals all operate via normal spring as well.

I think you didnt get behind the idea of ffb pedals if you start talking about springs and hydraulic stuff.
 
Hi all

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between TMP motor & driver? Also, is there anyone to control the fan speed on the DD2?

Thanks.
 
Hi all

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between TMP motor & driver? Also, is there anyone to control the fan speed on the DD2?

Thanks.
Motor is the temperature of the motor itself, and Driver is the temperature of the PCB that is controlling the motor. The fan profile is carefully calibrated and isn't something that the user can or should adjust.
 
Motor is the temperature of the motor itself, and Driver is the temperature of the PCB that is controlling the motor. The fan profile is carefully calibrated and isn't something that the user can or should adjust.
Thank you for the reply Dom.

Can you tell me at what temperature is too hot for the motor and driver? Or does the wheelbase never get to that temperature.

I typically find the driver goes up to 60 degrees. I am wondering is that too hot with longer durations of simulation.

Thanks
 
Thank you for the reply Dom.

Can you tell me at what temperature is too hot for the motor and driver? Or does the wheelbase never get to that temperature.

I typically find the driver goes up to 60 degrees. I am wondering is that too hot with longer durations of simulation.

Thanks
60 degrees is normal. The temps have to reach 120 degrees before it starts to reduce its strength (then it can continue beyond that without damaging itself).
 
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