Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel stettings

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I have been very pleased with the FF on my PWTS in GT5 other than at High Speed Ring which appears to be directly ported from GT5P - see sawing FF and all! No deadzone at all (20 at High Speed Ring - nice to be able to quickly adjust this stuff in game!).

Last night I tried to do the license test on Eiger with the yellow Lancer (downhill braking, I think) and although I had played it before with no problem on a controller, with the wheel I couldn't keep the car straight at all! The feedback was overpowering. On a normal paved track my settings are very generic: 10 on FF in GT5 and 100 on the PWTS, no deadzone, drift, or any other options. SHO at 60-70ish, ABS at 10-20ish. I love these normally - but even after turning the SHO and FF on the PWTS to 0 I still was fighting the wheel - seems odd for so much of a difference.

The SHO setting only effects how much vibration in the wheel is caused by the throttle pedal position (not the in-game throttle position). So, changing it isn't going to effect how "strong" or "weak" your FFB is. This seems to be a common misconception.

Try turning the in-game FFb down. Most on this forum agree that lowering it below 5 (in-game) hides some of the canned effects, and lets the wheel do the processing. It seems like your wheel and GT5 are trying to fight each-other for FFB processing duty.




;)
 
The SHO setting only effects how much vibration in the wheel is caused by the throttle pedal position (not the in-game throttle position). So, changing it isn't going to effect how "strong" or "weak" your FFB is. This seems to be a common misconception.

Try turning the in-game FFb down. Most on this forum agree that lowering it below 5 (in-game) hides some of the canned effects, and lets the wheel do the processing. It seems like your wheel and GT5 are trying to fight each-other for FFB processing duty.




;)
So you're telling me with SHO up you feel vibrations in the wheel with application of the the throttle? I just don't.
 
I was playing around with my PWTS settings last night and found that in GT5 with firmware 681 I do not need to use the deadzone setting I was at 20 in GT5P which felt fine then bumped it down to 10 on GT5 but last night I moved it down to 0 and the car was still fine. I could even let go of the wheel at times without an issue. a setting of 10 or 20 makes it more stable when you let go but I find that little bit of play was making it harder when I got into the FGT race.

btw with SHO on you will feel vibrations in the wheel from the throttle on the PS3 but if you also set ABS=100 you will no longer feel these vibrations even if Sho =100
On the Xbox the vibration is activated when running over rumble strips and rough pavement.
 
So you're telling me with SHO up you feel vibrations in the wheel with application of the the throttle? I just don't.

btw with SHO on you will feel vibrations in the wheel from the throttle on the PS3 but if you also set ABS=100 you will no longer feel these vibrations even if Sho =100

👍

On the Xbox the vibration is activated when running over rumble strips and rough pavement.

While this is true, it has nothing to do with the "SHO" setting on the wheel. As I said, the "SHO" setting deals only with vibration based on the position of the throttle pedal (on consoles). Rumble strips, crashes, etc... have to do with the FFB rumble effects coded into the game. Changing the "SHO" setting does not change the rumble or FFb effects. It just increases or decreases the amount of vibration caused by the throttle pedal position.



;)
 
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So if I set ABS to anything but 100 I'll regain SHO? In other words it's not an one or the other thing. It's some of one and some of the other?
 
If you set ABS=OFF the Sho works with the throttle on the PS3 If ABS is on then it does not. But really I think it is just anoying tied to the throttle anyway and the ABS does nothing on the PS3 or at least not with the standard pedals so I just set them both to 100 and forget about it.

On the Xbox it does not link to the throttle and the motors which do the vibration react to the game instead. On the PC the ABS setting gives you FF in your brake pedal, or at least it is supposed to with the club sport pedals when connected via USB to the pc in a game that supports this.
 
I want to let all of you know something. if you are having issues with the pedals not registering 100% input or showing slight brake input when you are not touching it etc, the way to fix it quickly without taking your pedals apart is to pause the game, disconnect the pedal cable from the steering wheel and reconnect it. This will reset the pedal calibration in the steering wheel. The next time you touch the brakes or the throttle pedal, they will register at 100% immediately. So be careful in the race. Just press each pedal all the way down gently and they will be calibrated. I found that after pressing the pedal too hard, the auto calibration thought that my limit moved so the only way i could get 100% input was by pressing really hard again, otherwise it would only register 95% or so. That's what happens when you have cheap plastic pedals i guess. I had to do the disconnect/reconnect/calibrate thing a few times now unfortunately. If there was only a pedal dead zone adjustment like there is in other games this wouldnt be an issue.
 
If you set ABS=OFF the Sho works with the throttle on the PS3 If ABS is on then it does not. But really I think it is just anoying tied to the throttle anyway and the ABS does nothing on the PS3 or at least not with the standard pedals so I just set them both to 100 and forget about it.

On the Xbox it does not link to the throttle and the motors which do the vibration react to the game instead. On the PC the ABS setting gives you FF in your brake pedal, or at least it is supposed to with the club sport pedals when connected via USB to the pc in a game that supports this.

Yeah I know it works better on that side.
Even if I'm getting a "fake" sensation on the PS3 side it'll be better than nothing. Just feels empty right now. As I have it (with clubsport pedals) I get the vibration under heavy braking but nothing on acceleration. From what you're saying I gotta choose between the two now. I guess I'd rather stay with the braking cues than some engine revs no matter how much it kills the experience. :( COME ON PD SUPPORT THIS WHEEL FOR REAL DAMMIT!!!!
 
Yes, exactly the same problem and what peeves me is that change gears in my little Nissan Note at the same speed and you know what? its fine!!!

I found that this isn't an issue with changing gears quickly.

If you move the shifter while the tachometer is in the red it will pop into neutral. If you move the shifter when it isn't in the red it will shift. So if you are in the red you need to wait a second. if you are not in the red you can shift fast.

Took me a lot of trial and error to figure it out. I was getting very frustrated. Whether or not this is true to life is another issue since I'll never even put my car into the red (let alone shift when I'm there).
 
Hi!

I've not noticed any difference at all when I change the "dpr" setting, no matter if it's -3 or 3. It feels the same. Is it just me?
 
IIRC from my mad search to find settings documentation "dpr" doesn't do anything in PS3 mode.
 
IIRC from my mad search to find settings documentation "dpr" doesn't do anything in PS3 mode.

Ok thx, good to know! PWTS just feels a bit too heavy to turn for my liking. I've played with the settings quite a bit but the wheel has a tad too much resistance. Lowering the amount of FF helps a bit but I'm afraid that just weakens the effects, I'd just like to lower the turning resistance.
It's not THAT bad, I think this is a great wheel nevertheless!
 
have you turned up the drift mode ("dri") ?
That's the only way to tinker with the force dampening in ps3 mode. If you turn it up it should make it so that the forces are strong when you turn the wheel slowly but weak when you turn quickly. makes it easier to counter steer (hence the drift mode name).
 
Kinda wish they would make the same wheel but without the Porsche branding. Don't get me wrong, I love Porsche (and really really REALLY wish I could get a Carerra GT in GT5), but it would just feel wrong to look at a Porsche logo while I'm driving an Enzo, Lambo, or NSX-R. ;)
 
I've now tried with my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S as well as my sons Fanatec Porsche 911 GT2.

I've now played with all the in game settings I can find and all the wheel settings that I can find and diddly squat.

I've tested both wheels with F1 2010 (XBox and PS3), Forza 3, Race Pro, and Ferrari Challenge. All the Force feedback on all of those games is fantastic, specifically noticable in F1 2010 on PS3 where the Firware update 681 has been installed for that game.

In GT5P there was a rumbling sensation when you went over a Kerb, one of the best places to feel it is on the inside Kerb as you exit the tunnel at High Speed ring. However in GT5 it just does not exist.

The only conclusion I can draw is that it's the game and put simply the Force Feedback in GT5 felt specifically on a Fanatec wheel is just.............BAD! A major thing to add to my ever increasing list of disappoinments with this game.

There is resistance, there is occaisional snatch back but in the places where it counts like when putting 2 wheels over a kerb at racing speeds, it's plain not there, racing on a track is a dull, heavy, lifeless experience. The rumble does appear if you go off track and drive on grass, so there no reason why it shouldn't be there on the Kerbs. I've not tried any rallying yet but am sure it'll be there as off road seems to activate it.

I'm going to dig my old Logitech Driving Force Pro out of the attic and see if the problem is there on that wheel too, but no time tonight.
 
Uxi
Kinda wish they would make the same wheel but without the Porsche branding. Don't get me wrong, I love Porsche (and really really REALLY wish I could get a Carerra GT in GT5), but it would just feel wrong to look at a Porsche logo while I'm driving an Enzo, Lambo, or NSX-R. ;)
Also the buttons and especially the D-pad could be put in better places if it wasn't for the Porsche licenses.
 
have you turned up the drift mode ("dri") ?
That's the only way to tinker with the force dampening in ps3 mode. If you turn it up it should make it so that the forces are strong when you turn the wheel slowly but weak when you turn quickly. makes it easier to counter steer (hence the drift mode name).

Yes, I've tested the drift mode 2 now qite a bit, perhaps the most suitable for me.
Also, I tried the powersteering option in game settings but it feels wierd. When you turn the wheel quickly, the powersteering aid is not smooth, it's kind of "jagged" and doesn't feel right. I prefer it turned off.
 
yeah, the power assist in game just confuses the forces. from what i and others have found you're better off leaving that off and the in-game force down @ 5 or below to let the fanatec handle and tune the FF.

btw... useful information originally from somewhere else that I edited.
Make sure you get the most upto date firmware from thomas's blog
http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/3580

S_1 to S_5 These are the five different groups of settings you can store. So
you could have one for each game or a couple for the same game but one for r
class cars (less steering rotation) and one for drifting.

Within each of the 5 settings groups there are 7 settings that can be changed
(only with the updated firmware, earlier firmware doesn't have as many),
these are:

SEn :
This is the maximum lock to lock rotation of the wheel and can be changed
from 90 to 900 degrees in 10 degree steps. I mainly use the 900 degree mode,
except with R class cars where 360 seems better to me. If you are going to use
900 degree mode, the wheel needs to be in 900 degree mode each time the wheel
connects to your xbox. Changing from any other rotation value to 900 degrees
whilst in game will result in the 900 degree mode not working properly. Easy
way to solve this is to put the wheel into 900 degree mode, power of the wheel
with the button on the side, power it back on , press the xbox guide button to
reconnect the wheel and xbox. Anothe general tip is to never turn the xbox on
with the wheel, always turn the xbox on via the button on the xbox first and
then turn the wheel on and then connect using the xbox guide button on the wheel.

ff :
This is the strength of the force feedback. It can be changed in 10 % steps
from 0 to 100. The wheel has strong forcefeedback and I normally set it to 40%.

sho :
This is the vibration function of two vibration fucntions motors in the wheel
rim and can be set in 10% steps form 0 to 100. It's linked to the accelerator
pedal in Forza and other general vibration stuff. I turn it off as it gets on
my tits!!

dri :
Fanatec call this drift mode as it was implemented to help drifting but is very
useful in general driving as well. It can be changed in single steps of 1 to 5.
What it does is reduces the damping of the wheel as the value increases.
Basically it reduces the amount of force required to counter steer. The motors
in this wheel are strong and with dri set to zero it actually takes quite a bit
of effort to conter steer when you get the back end out. Increasing this value
makes it much easier to counter steer. I set it 4 but I'm still learning about
the best way to use it, so that may change in the future.

AbS :
This is a clever little feature and changes depending on whether or not you have
the clubsport pedals or not. It is changeable in 1 % steps from 0 to 100 and
induces a vibration at the percentage of braking force you set. So if you set
the value to 50, vibration will occur when you reach 50% braking force. Without
the clubsport pedals the two vibration motors in the wheel rim vibrate and with
the clubsport pedals a vibration motor attached to the brake pedal vibrates. I
set this to 80% as I feel the wheels start to lock from about 82% onwards. So in
essence this enables you to feel when you are about to lock your brakes. Very
good feature of the wheel in my opinion.

Lin :
This is how linear the wheel is across it's rotation. It's change in 1 % steps
from 0 to 100. It's not easy to explain but basically means you can set the wheel
to be less sensitive at its centre than at it's outside. This means you can have
the rotation set to say 360, but at 30 degrees either side of the centre position
turning the wheel results in only a slight rotation of the wheel in game. The
further you get from the centre point the more the wheel turns in game relative
to the lin percentage you set. Rubbish explanation I know.

dEA :
This is a feature that lets you set a deadzone at the centre of the wheel and is
changeable in 10% steps from 0 to I don't know actually! It's been introduced in
this firmware release because of the lack of a mechanical deadzone at the centre
of the wheel due to it being belt driven rather than gear driven. All gear driven
wheels have a slight mechanical deadzone at the centre as a result of the teeth
of the gear cogs. This has caused issues with GT5P in particular where with the
wheel centred driving in a straight line would result in the wheel swinging from
side to side due to force feedback effects becasue PD had not tested the game
with the wheel so were not aware it had no dead zone. All wheels PD tested had
some inherent mechanical deadzone which meant at it's centre positon the wheel
did not report any values and a forcefeedback response from the game did not
result. With the Fanatecs lacks of deadzone it is very difficult to keep it
exaclty centred. This would result in the wheel reporting a small steering
angle to the game and the game, taking into account the expected deadzone, would
thing a much larger steering angle was in effect would send a force feedback
signal back to the wheel to centre it even though it was close to centre. This
force feedback effect would send the wheel off centre the other way creating
another steering angle the game would see as larger than it was resulting in an
even bigger force feedback signal being set to the wheel. This would all
snowball resulting in the wheel swinging from sise to side when trying to drive
in a straight line. Thomas has assured us that PD have tested the wheel with GT5
and the issue will not be present when released. I haven't tested it enough to
know what a good value is but I would imagine 10 - 30 would be enough.
 
^ I recently got upgraded to the CSPs... Is there really a vibration motor in the brake pedal? I never felt that, an I wouldn't know where that motor is...
 
^ I recently got upgraded to the CSPs... Is there really a vibration motor in the brake pedal? I never felt that, an I wouldn't know where that motor is...

Look behind your brake pedal, you'll see a semicircular magnet on a small motor, that's the vibration motor, but frankly now that I have exhausted all settings with GT5, the Force Feedback is so poor that you'll barely feel it, it is there if you set your ABS rumble setting in the wheel low enough, you'll feel it....barely.

But it seems that the FFB in GT5 is so poor, dull and lifeless anyway (certainly with a Fanatecwheel so far, I've not tried my Logitech) that braking feedback is a minor consideration, I'm more worried about the lack of feel of rumble strips, kerb riding, understeer and torque steer which is completely conspicuous by it's absence in this game.
 
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I have had the 911 Turbo S and Clubsports for about a year now.

Yesterday I finally got around to adjusting the brake pedal travel by moving the pivot point up one notch.

What a huge difference this made, feels just like a well bled firm brake pedal, I have a Spec Miata as a track car.

All you need to do is loosen the set screw, press out the rod, No need to take the pedals apart.
 
I have a couple of questions that you might be able to help me with!!!

I like the "Sen" setting to be quite low, so the lock to lock movement is small, like with a quick rack fitted to a rally car. BUT, I think I may need to adjust some of the associated settings so that the wheels on the car don't turn quite so much!! Does anyone know what the "other" settings should be if using a low "Sen" setting?

I also find that the throttle dead zone is all wrong. I'm not getting use of the full distance of travel. I find that I go from 0 to 100% throttle within the first 25% of the pedal's travel. Does anyone know how I can calibrate the pedal to use the full distance of travel rather than just the first 25%?

thanks,

Andrew
 
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