Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel stettings

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H shifter and clutch issue. I am running latest firmware and have calibrated wheel and shifter. Works perfectly on PC NFS Shift.

GT5 if I shift very slow it works, anything close to a normal speed shift it just goes into neutral. Then the only way it will work again is go back to first. Very annoying and worthless right now. Not impressed. Any thoughts and is everyone having this issue?

Yes, exactly the same problem and what peeves me is that change gears in my little Nissan Note at the same speed and you know what? its fine!!!
 
A bit OT....
I have an old Logitech DFP that I am not enjoying very much in GT5 due to lack of FFB effects. I want a better wheel for this game.

pardon my ignorance...
This Fanatec wheel can have adjustments made outside of any PC or PS3? Does it have a memory chip to hold settings that can then be used in GT5?
thanks!
:)
 
pardon my ignorance...
This Fanatec wheel can have adjustments made outside of any PC or PS3? Does it have a memory chip to hold settings that can then be used in GT5?
thanks!
:)

Yes. Its really the only wheel that lets you fine tune your settings out of game. Its saves your settings in up to 5 different slots. The settings it gives you can get the wheel to work the way you want for any game. They are truly awesome.
 
Yes. Its really the only wheel that lets you fine tune your settings out of game. Its saves your settings in up to 5 different slots. The settings it gives you can get the wheel to work the way you want for any game. They are truly awesome.

oh my word! that is an awesome feature!

thanks for the info.
👍
 
Has anyone heard anything about a possible clubsport shifter for the PWTS? I broke the cheap one that came with it shifting from 2nd-3rd, just snapped off, and am not spending $50 on another of these crappy shifters. :banghead:
 
Has anyone heard anything about a possible clubsport shifter for the PWTS? I broke the cheap one that came with it shifting from 2nd-3rd, just snapped off, and am not spending $50 on another of these crappy shifters. :banghead:

It's in development, supposedly there may be some word on the prototype next month. It's not due until some time next year though.

You should contact Fanatec about your PWTS shifter since it's still under warranty. It's at least worth a shot.
 
It's in development, supposedly there may be some word on the prototype next month. It's not due until some time next year though.

You should contact Fanatec about your PWTS shifter since it's still under warranty. It's at least worth a shot.

Dang, that's a long time to wait. Maybe they will let me test the prototype haha. I'm pretty sure they wouldn't cover this under warranty. It snapped off at the base and they would probably say it was cause by being too rough or something, even though I wasn't shifting that hard even.
 
Dang, that's a long time to wait. Maybe they will let me test the prototype haha. I'm pretty sure they wouldn't cover this under warranty. It snapped off at the base and they would probably say it was cause by being too rough or something, even though I wasn't shifting that hard even.

I too would love to be a test pilot for the ClubSport Shifters. Hopefully Fanatec will have a beta program in the future.
 
Well first off, I'd like to say the my 911 Turbo (no S) worked fine with GT5 off the bat.

My question is if there is a way to adjust the button assignments. It seems that the L3 and R3 buttons don't do anything. It would be nice if I could set one of those to the horn or windshield wipers.
 
Like the thread title says. Has anyone found any really good settings for the turbo s wheel?
 
does anyone have a problem with not getting full throttle? I can see in the HUD that there its a sliver from being 100%, sometimes flutters a little up there. Is there any way to correct this? I wish there was a deadzone for the pedals.

I have exactly the same problem. It won't go to 100%. If anyone has any idea how to fix this please let us know.

I have firmware 681 and am using standard pedals on my PWTS.

Forza 3 works just fine.
 
hmm.... I have the GT3 RS wheel and don't need a deadzone... just had to put it into compatibility mode and turn the FF below 100.
Feels loads better than the DFP did in GT4 but only about 80% as good as GTR-Evo on the PC.
 
In FM3 the same problem was there, but as I said, the game dealt with the problem in a different way. Watch a replay after a race of vigorous shifting, and you'll see (er....hear) what I mean. If you don't release the throttle all the way before depressing the clutch the engine over revs and bounces off the rev limiter. It's not very noticeable from the cockpit view, but on replay it's really annoying. Took me a bit to get used to that.

GT5 is just more strict with it's penalty for said action. Instead of over-revving, it just forces neutral (in most cases).

I see what you mean, i guess in FM3 we all got used to the gear change and yes the replays do highlight the revs increasing during a shift.



Pictures, you say?...

How about a complete comprehensive DIY guide? :sly:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129591


Enjoy.



;)

That was a pleasant surprise for a Monday morning!

Thank you for directing me to your DIY guide, I will definitely change the inversion of my CSP's, just need to work out a mounting for the play-seat.

All the best,

Nigel
 
That was a pleasant surprise for a Monday morning!

Thank you for directing me to your DIY guide, I will definitely change the inversion of my CSP's, just need to work out a mounting for the play-seat.

All the best,

Nigel

No problem...

You'll be glad you inverted them. They feel fantastic.




;)
 
Guys we know the Turbo S wheel has the main FF motor and 2 vibration motors. Are you guys saying you're getting use out of the vibration motors? I feel as if those motors aren't working in this game as they are in Forza 3. To be frank the wheel feels "hollow" in GT5 compared to Forza 3.
 
Guys we know the Turbo S wheel has the main FF motor and 2 vibration motors. Are you guys saying you're getting use out of the vibration motors? I feel as if those motors aren't working in this game as they are in Forza 3. To be frank the wheel feels "hollow" in GT5 compared to Forza 3.

If you're talking about the "SHO" setting....

I leave it off in every game (FM3 included). It's an incredibly unrealistic feature for most games... Very distracting, and doesn't add anything to the game for me.

If you're talking about the "rumble" (not setting related), then yes, I would say it feels far better than FM3.

With a lower in-game FFB setting (wheel set at 100FFB) I can feel all the rumble strips, understeer, tires going off the pavement, etc...




;)
 
Guys we know the Turbo S wheel has the main FF motor and 2 vibration motors. Are you guys saying you're getting use out of the vibration motors? I feel as if those motors aren't working in this game as they are in Forza 3. To be frank the wheel feels "hollow" in GT5 compared to Forza 3.

I don't think so. I was wondering about this too. The dirt tracks give a lot of surface feedback but I couldn't quite tell if there was anything happening with the vibration motors or if it was just the FFB motors. Anyway, at Toscana I turned the wheel 'FF' setting all the way down and left the 'Sho' at 100 and didn't get any vibration effects from the track. I do get the vibration from the brake pedal but that's not from any signal in the game.
 
I don't think so. I was wondering about this too. The dirt tracks give a lot of surface feedback but I couldn't quite tell if there was anything happening with the vibration motors or if it was just the FFB motors. Anyway, at Toscana I turned the wheel 'FF' setting all the way down and left the 'Sho' at 100 and didn't get any vibration effects from the track. I do get the vibration from the brake pedal but that's not from any signal in the game.

The "SHO" setting is ONLY for throttle vibration (vibrates with engine revs), and is only supported by some games/systems (Xbox 360). It has nothing to do with what is happening on the track.



;)
 
The "SHO" setting is ONLY for throttle vibration (vibrates with engine revs), and is only supported by some games/systems (Xbox 360). It has nothing to do with what is happening on the track.



;)

Well I guess I need some fake SHO then. lol. I don't think it's that or only that. It's just you can tell something is missing from the experience. When you say it has nothing to do with what's happening on the track do you mean it's something that the pedals and wheel work out without game info or do you mean in real life it wouldn't be there? I know for a fact that I have the Civic SI 87, well had :( that's in the game and I'd be damned if I didn't feel my engine through the wheel and stick and ears (hole in muffler, lol). They got kinda close with the feeling of that car even though I can't get in the cockpit :grumpy:👎
 
The "SHO" setting is ONLY for throttle vibration (vibrates with engine revs), and is only supported by some games/systems (Xbox 360). It has nothing to do with what is happening on the track.

Very interesting. I noticed that some of the lower amplitude curb FFB effects were hard to detect. I'll try lowering the SHO setting tonight. I don't need harsh vibration effects anyway, as it's unrealistic for the earlier production cars. Now, a vibrating shifter may be more realistic, especially one with a direct linkage! ;)
 
Guys, are there any way I can get rid of the "sawing right and left" on the straights without opdating my Fanatec Turbo S wheel?
 
Well I guess I need some fake SHO then. lol. I don't think it's that or only that. It's just you can tell something is missing from the experience. When you say it has nothing to do with what's happening on the track do you mean it's something that the pedals and wheel work out without game info or do you mean in real life it wouldn't be there? I know for a fact that I have the Civic SI 87, well had :( that's in the game and I'd be damned if I didn't feel my engine through the wheel and stick and ears (hole in muffler, lol). They got kinda close with the feeling of that car even though I can't get in the cockpit :grumpy:👎

The "SHO" setting has nothing to do with FFB (force feedback) effects. It only effects how much vibration is caused by engine revolutions. Raising the "SHO" will not change the FFB strength, or allow you to feel more of the FFB effects (i.e rumble strips, collisions, loss of traction, etc...).

"SHO" is really only supported by Xbox 360 (and also PC, I believe).

I have it turned off in all 5 wheel settings. It's easier to feel the FFB effects without that silly rumble. If it was well implemented, I might give it a shot more often, but as it is, it just doesn't feel realistic (in my opinion) and muddles the feel of the other effects.


Now, a vibrating shifter may be more realistic, especially one with a direct linkage!

I believe Fanatec has been toying with these ideas for the Clubsport Shifter. I wouldn't be surprised if the vibration function made it to the production version.



;)
 
Guys, are there any way I can get rid of the "sawing right and left" on the straights without opdating my Fanatec Turbo S wheel?

Is this happening for you on all tracks or just high speed ring? I had same issue on high speed ring but doesn't seem to impact other tracks at all!
 
Guys, are there any way I can get rid of the "sawing right and left" on the straights without opdating my Fanatec Turbo S wheel?

Well your choices without dead zone, or linearity are limited... (or dpr?)
Using 900 deg will lessen it, as will reducing ffb ... and you will notice it more/less on different tracks..
Bare in mind the problem is not the wheel, its just the wheel is more sensitive, and powerful (ie no dead zone and strong ffb are the cause)

It could be, that pd will add more steering adjustments, as other wheel users are complaining .


Why not update the firmware? It's very simple, just follow the instructions carefully.
 
No problem...

You'll be glad you inverted them. They feel fantastic.




;)

Really looking forward to it!

I remember on FM2 I used the MS Xbox wheel and a chap with the gamertag: BADGAMER from the USA posted a mod that changed the cheap plastic bush MS used when building the wheel for a sealed metal bearing. The guy was a legend, it changed a really cheap feeling wheel into an enjoyable experience.

Hope i am not bugging you with questions, but do you know the difference between the Fanatec CSP firmware updates you directed me to?

When updating my pedals on Sunday, I noticed there were a selection to choose from based on dead-zone settings. I chose No.1 but there were approximately 5 to chose from. (0,1,2,3,10 from memory?)

Thanks in advance,

Nigel
 
Guys, are there any way I can get rid of the "sawing right and left" on the straights without opdating my Fanatec Turbo S wheel?

Are you running the latest firmware update found on the Fanatec site?

If not then read some of the earlier threads mate, a number of us had the same problem.

Good luck
 
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