Fanatec Reveals Direct Drive ClubSport DD and DD+ Wheel Bases: Available to Pre-Order Now

  • Thread starter Famine
  • 464 comments
  • 56,935 views
No, hold the press. It is the QR2 causing the clunkiness. It's very obvious through Suzuka S Curves: it clunks to one direction and then on the next turn-in to the other. I can alleviate it by turning FFB down and adding some damping, but for example using wheel FFB at 60, in-game max torque at 5 and NDP at 5 gives that "clank" every time the turn is in opposite direction from the last. It's very obvious in the feel through the wheel and with the sound.

I am super confused. My understanding was that the QR2 eliminated this problem. Am I alone in this?
 
I have it at 15 on the wheel setting.
I play in socks, and sit in a semi f1 style sitting position.
20 is fine, but seems unnecessary. At 25 I'm really putting stress on my back/seat and the base of my Playseat is flexing at the pedals. I believe if I race at that level long term, I will eventually break this rig.
15 feels much safer. 20 will probably be where I settle in down the road maybe?
Embarrassing, but... maybe as the bushings break in, or I get used to the feeling, I can get it higher again.
I see. I wouldn't be able to play like that just from what I'm used to, which is why I wasn't sure what you meant in your post. I run my brake force around 80 percent; setting it to 15 or 20, I barely have to touch the pedals to spike the brake pressure/force to 100. I don't even run it that low for my nine-year-old when he's driving and he can easily apply full braking pressure if I set the force to about 45 or 50 percent via the steering wheel tuning menu. But as you say, you need a solid rig to allow for this.
 
Last edited:
I see. I wouldn't be able to play like that just from what I'm used to, which is why I wasn't sure what you meant in your post. I run my brake force around 80 percent; setting it to 15 or 20, I barely have to touch the pedals to spike the brake pressure/force to 100. I don't even run it that low for my nine-year-old when he's driving and he can easily apply full braking pressure if I set the force to about 45 or 50 percent via the steering wheel tuning menu. But as you say, you need a solid rig to allow for this.
Something is clearly off then.
I do not believe there are more than a dozen 9 year olds in the entire world that could fully depress the pedals I have right now if set at 45 or 50.

If set at 20, getting to 100% force in game will result in nearly 1" of deflection in the alley steel plate of my rig.

There are dozens of reddit threads about this, and entire kits designed for softer elastomers than the 65s that come preloaded.
 
If I get really close to the base I can hear a very small humming noise, which is actually even smaller than the same noise on my DD Pro.
Good to know you're pretty much hearing a similar vague sound. I never noticed my DD Pro making any slight noise, but I'll have to hook it up again just out of curiosity.
 
No, hold the press. It is the QR2 causing the clunkiness. It's very obvious through Suzuka S Curves: it clunks to one direction and then on the next turn-in to the other. I can alleviate it by turning FFB down and adding some damping, but for example using wheel FFB at 60, in-game max torque at 5 and NDP at 5 gives that "clank" every time the turn is in opposite direction from the last. It's very obvious in the feel through the wheel and with the sound.

I am super confused. My understanding was that the QR2 eliminated this problem. Am I alone in this?
I have the QR2 on 5 different wheels and I definitely have no clunking on any of them. I’m on a DD1.
 
I am super confused. My understanding was that the QR2 eliminated this problem. Am I alone in this?
Yes, it's supposed to, and this is the first time I've heard that a QR2 still has this same issue as a QR1. I have 4 QR2s and no issue with any of them. You should probably contact Fanatec support and ask for a replacement. Also, try the FFB test in the PC driver software (turn down the FFB scale to avoid damage), it should make very obvious metal clunking noises if there really is some "play" on your QR2. You can also send Fanatec support a video of the test as proof, otherwise they might be stubborn.
 
Something is clearly off then.
I do not believe there are more than a dozen 9 year olds in the entire world that could fully depress the pedals I have right now if set at 45 or 50.

If set at 20, getting to 100% force in game will result in nearly 1" of deflection in the alley steel plate of my rig.

There are dozens of reddit threads about this, and entire kits designed for softer elastomers than the 65s that come preloaded.
What? Are we talking about the same thing? What brakes are you running? I have the Fanatec V3 pedals and a TrakRacer TR8 Pro rig. No issues running the brake force at 100 percent if I want to, and I used to run near that, but I realized it was giving me less precise control of the brakes so I messed around and found that somewhere near 80 works and feels best for me. I also have the Brake Performance Kit installed and it is stiffer than the elastomers that come with the pedals out of the box. As for the kid, I'll have to check as it's been a while, perhaps I set it to 40 or 35 for him but I promise you it's more than 20. On my pedals--and this ain't my first set of Fanatec pedals, so I know they are functioning properly--20 percent brake force requires hardly any leg strength to hit full pressure in the game.
 
What? Are we talking about the same thing? What brakes are you running? I have the Fanatec V3 pedals
I stated I have the CSL Elite V2s.
If you're like me and are having a hell of a time getting the V2 brake pedal to 100% without destroying your back into your racing seat, or bending my pedal base to its absolute limits, I had to drop it down to 15-25% on the wheel setting so I could reliably get to 100% braking power without feeling like I'm leg pressing 300lbs. (With the three 65 bushings). But I've never had a load cell brake.
 
No, hold the press. It is the QR2 causing the clunkiness. It's very obvious through Suzuka S Curves: it clunks to one direction and then on the next turn-in to the other. I can alleviate it by turning FFB down and adding some damping, but for example using wheel FFB at 60, in-game max torque at 5 and NDP at 5 gives that "clank" every time the turn is in opposite direction from the last. It's very obvious in the feel through the wheel and with the sound.

I am super confused. My understanding was that the QR2 eliminated this problem. Am I alone in this?
Unless you have a weirdly faulty QR2 I don't believe it can be the QR2 causing the clunk - the design is 100% solid in my view. My concern for you is that you might have a fault somewhere else - the wheelbase shaft maybe - or are you just getting some weird FFB signal? Have you tried some other racing games for comparison?
 
Unless you have a weirdly faulty QR2 I don't believe it can be the QR2 causing the clunk - the design is 100% solid in my view. My concern for you is that you might have a fault somewhere else - the wheelbase shaft maybe - or are you just getting some weird FFB signal? Have you tried some other racing games for comparison?
That or try a metal QR1 and see if there is a similar clunk in the same places... that could answer the question. Or confuse the issue more. 🤷‍♂️
 
hmm. Ok. So in have the ghetto pedals with load cell on the dd stand from next level, which is tightly wedged between ottoman and sofa effectively immobilizing it during play.
After almost a year(may), no matter what i do, the pedal travel is about an inch. Maybe two. Consequently, i keep my brf around 25 which allows me to curl my toes and effectively trail brake etc. ive tried more brf but it makes finding the last 75%_100 more poke and hope than something i’d developed muscle memory for. The play in my pedal is nothing like what the original boosted media review shows, nor any vehicle i’ve driven.(granted no race car experience). Now im wondering if the new batch of v2’s have come out board stiff?

As for the chunking qr2 question. All the new wheels are running off of the old wheels sdk/api’s presently. I’ve read something to the effect on the fanatec boards that gt7 has clipping above ffb 4, but 5 is ok for the most part. Im wondering if your experiencing clipping and its a bit more dramatic because your wheel’s stronger now.

Have you tried in game ffb of 3 or 4 and tried to reproduce it?
 
I am not sure what it was, but the problem is gone. I took apart the whole thing, wheel, hub and opened up the QR. There were some chunks of grease where the locking pins of the QR travel, but that shouldn't have been a problem. Maybe something was still lose, I don't know. Anyway, just raced for a good two hours with rather higher FFB and absolutely no clunkiness. Thanks for the comments everyone, knowing this wasn't right got me working towards a solution. All good now, just waiting for FullForce patch and PS5 Pro (the latter might materialize first at this pace).
 
Thank you! First Fanatec, had no clue there were hidden settings options.

I tried what Super GT offered and it was mostly good, (other than his FFB, jesus that's strong...) but I had to adjust 2 things to make the wheel more friendly for... a new and far more casual Fanatec user, coming from a T300.

SEN Auto
FFB 60
FUL is irrelevant at the moment
NDP 3 (if you have this at 'off' the wheel does that weird oscillating thing when you are at center, which means you can't let go off the wheel or it will zip back and forth endlessly)
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 5 (this is interpolation. If you have this off, the wheel feels like garbage to me, as a casual player. It feels cheap and broken, clunky, almost like being back on a gear driven wheel, like my old-school driving force GT wheel.)
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100

In game settings I went with
Max Torque 5
Sensitivity 1

Basically I tried to get as close as I could to Super GTs settings, but put the FFB way lower cuz I'm a casual gamer. And I had to get rid of the crazy back and forth nonsense when the wheel is sitting at center untouched. And I couldn't stand the feel or noise of the wheel without a little interpolation smoothing out the game inputs. But I tried to use the lowest amounts to just get rid of the annoying parts, and keep the best of everything else.

If you're like me and are having a hell of a time getting the V2 brake pedal to 100% without destroying your back into your racing seat, or bending my pedal base to its absolute limits, I had to drop it down to 15-25% on the wheel setting so I could reliably get to 100% braking power without feeling like I'm leg pressing 300lbs. (With the three 65 bushings). But I've never had a load cell brake.

This is for GT7, and for reference, I really only drive GT3 cars. I am normal human quick, but not an alien by any measure.

Hopefully that helps anyone in a similar situation as me. Basically as close to SuperGTs settings as I can, just with 2 QoL adjustments for casual racers. Everyone can adjust their FFB settings to their preference obviously, it's the other things that seem to matter for gameplay.

Good luck!
P.s. I have no done any software or firmware updates. Straight out of the box and into GT7.
It is interesting that you have wheel oscillation with the damper OFF. Is that "in game" or just by turning on the base and letting the wheel sit at rest out of game?

I have found the opposite. Sort of...With the latest firmware installed on everything, my wheel will slightly vibrate. I am talking like small left/right vibrations that are hardly noticeable. This is in game and out of game. The second you grab the wheel the vibration is not even strong enough for your hands to feel. Anyway, I was curious, so I started messing with the tuning menu. I chose one of the default FACTORY profiles and the vibration went away. What that told me is that one of my profile settings for GT7 was causing the vibration. In the end, it was NATURAL DAMPER. I had it set to 10. If turned off there is no vibration. Anything above off causes the wheel to vibrate at rest. This does not seem to affect gameplay but found it interesting. I am willing to bet updates to the firmware may eliminate it.
 
FMW
It is interesting that you have wheel oscillation with the damper OFF. Is that "in game" or just by turning on the base and letting the wheel sit at rest out of game?

I have found the opposite. Sort of...With the latest firmware installed on everything, my wheel will slightly vibrate. I am talking like small left/right vibrations that are hardly noticeable. This is in game and out of game. The second you grab the wheel the vibration is not even strong enough for your hands to feel. Anyway, I was curious, so I started messing with the tuning menu. I chose one of the default FACTORY profiles and the vibration went away. What that told me is that one of my profile settings for GT7 was causing the vibration. In the end, it was NATURAL DAMPER. I had it set to 10. If turned off there is no vibration. Anything above off causes the wheel to vibrate at rest. This does not seem to affect gameplay but found it interesting. I am willing to bet updates to the firmware may eliminate it.
In game only for me. (I've never played with anything outside of the game to be honest)
SuperGT alluded to it and specifically said "do not let go of the wheel" for his settings, so it seems to be consistent.

What I did was used the default settings on the A_S (before I knew how to access the advanced menu) for the entire weekend. Once I saw SuperGT list his settings, I instantly wanted to give them a shot, because he's obviously fast and has plenty of experience.

So I compared his settings to the default, to isolate the differences, and then started toggling them on and off 1 at a time to diagnose which one was causing each specific problem that I disliked.

Damper OFF as he advises, results is oscillating as the wheel won't just rest at center without me holding it still. I turned it on to 20 and theny wheel stays at zero. I slowly just backed it down until I found the lowest setting I could, without the wheel oscillating. I wouldn't be surprised if this was slightly different for every wheel, just for basic manufacturing tolerances, or maybe even in-car in-game differences? Again, I only really race GR3s on GT7, so my scope is admittedly very narrow. In a GR3 car I'm a high A, low A+ driver in GT7. Put me in a street car, and I'm a B at best 😂.

Turning on the INT, made the wheel feels and sound like my QR2 was broken, or something. I did not enjoy that at all. But everything is preference.

Please remember I did NOT update any firmware on my wheel. When it showed up, I plugged it into my PS5 and just started racing. This is my first Direct drive wheel and only 3rd wheel I've had in my life. I went from a very low end, gear driven wheel, the Logitech Driving Force GT. When PS4 came out I upgraded to the Belt Driver Thrustmaster T300, and then after 10 years on that wheel, I finally broke the pedals (wheel was still fantastic), but rather than dropping money on new pedals, I decided to just upgrade again to the DD Pro... but the DD+ was just getting announced, (as well as QR2) so I decided to wait, so I could future proof my investment, knowing that I don't burn through equipment or upgrade often, it was worth paying a bit more.

So full disclosure, my experience and... bar of expectations is probably lower than most. The DD+ is significantly nicer than anything I've had, but I didn't actually have any complaints about my T300 other than noise and some fade after extended play time due to heat I assume.

I probably overpaid for the DD+ given my needs, as I doubt I'm running anywhere near the 15nm it produces, but from an electronic standpoint, in regard to reliability and longevity, I feel more comfortable running the DD+ at ~8Nm than I would running the DD Pro at 100%, knowing I want it to last another 10 years. I believe the headroom of electronics and mechanical parts is very relevant when thinking long term, but that's just my personal opinion and justification.

In hindsight, I honestly think I would have been perfectly happy with my T300 for another 10 years, if I had just upgraded to a loadcell brake. But... life is short and since I no longer race in real life, sim racing is easy to justify the investment.

I assume with new firmware and updates, combined with more and more people sharing their DD+ settings, we'll find sweet spots on the coming weeks or months.

Zero idea what’s up with that. Are the V2s bugged in some way vs. the V3s?
I've never used the V3s so I can't say anything other than what I've seen online. The V3s use a soft foam system, and the V2s use a triple stack of elastomer. The internet seems to imply both load cells are rated for 90kg, (roughly 200lbs of pressure) based on the webpage it looks like the V3s also have an adjustment on the pedal, the red adjustment wheel? Perhaps yours is set in a way that alters the needed brake force?
Maybe I put my V2 together wrong?
But I see countless reddit and fantec forum threads about the stiffness of the V2 brake pedal, so I can't be completely crazy.

I'm not a body builder by any means, but I've raced karts/cars since I was 8 years old, and worked physical jobs the vast majority of my life, was an auto tech for 8 years, construction for plenty, etc. I'm athletic and in decent shape, at 38 years old now. I have no physical limitations, and other than some previously discussed limitations with the flex in my Playseat rig, I'm telling you, at 50% brake force on the wheel setting, I was using my racing seat as a backrest to try and achieve 100% on the in-game measurement, and it felt like I was trying to legpress the full 200lbs with my left foot. I could do it as means of achieving it, but there was no way in hell I could race like that, and reliably get to 100% for 10+ corners a lap without destroying my back, my seat, or my pedal plate at some point.

Here's a video from Boosted Media. If you skip to the 38 minute mark you can see him doing the calibration process, he's running them at 50% and his natural pressure gets him to about 80% braking power.



That's something I'll definitely have to explore, whether trying to reach 100% is actually a hindrance to speed and lap times? I've always tried to get 100% brake power coming into turns, so maybe I'm just doing it wrong, and if 80% is the goal, then obviously tuning brake force to 15-20% so I can hit 100% braking repeatedly every corner is actually just... wrong? I have no clue, trail braking isn't really something I've been able to do previously, but I am trying with the new load cell, and I think my lap times are improving at the high end, but my consistency is still questionable at best. Again, it's only been 4 days, and I had 6 months of no racing between my T300 pedals breaking and my DD+ actually showing up, so I'm probably just driving like rubbish, and need to put in the time and effort to get back in rhythm.

Anyone have the V2 and V3 that can compare the differences purely between brake force required?
 
In game only for me. (I've never played with anything outside of the game to be honest)
SuperGT alluded to it and specifically said "do not let go of the wheel" for his settings, so it seems to be consistent.

What I did was used the default settings on the A_S (before I knew how to access the advanced menu) for the entire weekend. Once I saw SuperGT list his settings, I instantly wanted to give them a shot, because he's obviously fast and has plenty of experience.

So I compared his settings to the default, to isolate the differences, and then started toggling them on and off 1 at a time to diagnose which one was causing each specific problem that I disliked.

Damper OFF as he advises, results is oscillating as the wheel won't just rest at center without me holding it still. I turned it on to 20 and theny wheel stays at zero. I slowly just backed it down until I found the lowest setting I could, without the wheel oscillating. I wouldn't be surprised if this was slightly different for every wheel, just for basic manufacturing tolerances, or maybe even in-car in-game differences? Again, I only really race GR3s on GT7, so my scope is admittedly very narrow. In a GR3 car I'm a high A, low A+ driver in GT7. Put me in a street car, and I'm a B at best 😂.

Turning on the INT, made the wheel feels and sound like my QR2 was broken, or something. I did not enjoy that at all. But everything is preference.

Please remember I did NOT update any firmware on my wheel. When it showed up, I plugged it into my PS5 and just started racing. This is my first Direct drive wheel and only 3rd wheel I've had in my life. I went from a very low end, gear driven wheel, the Logitech Driving Force GT. When PS4 came out I upgraded to the Belt Driver Thrustmaster T300, and then after 10 years on that wheel, I finally broke the pedals (wheel was still fantastic), but rather than dropping money on new pedals, I decided to just upgrade again to the DD Pro... but the DD+ was just getting announced, (as well as QR2) so I decided to wait, so I could future proof my investment, knowing that I don't burn through equipment or upgrade often, it was worth paying a bit more.

So full disclosure, my experience and... bar of expectations is probably lower than most. The DD+ is significantly nicer than anything I've had, but I didn't actually have any complaints about my T300 other than noise and some fade after extended play time due to heat I assume.

I probably overpaid for the DD+ given my needs, as I doubt I'm running anywhere near the 15nm it produces, but from an electronic standpoint, in regard to reliability and longevity, I feel more comfortable running the DD+ at ~8Nm than I would running the DD Pro at 100%, knowing I want it to last another 10 years. I believe the headroom of electronics and mechanical parts is very relevant when thinking long term, but that's just my personal opinion and justification.

In hindsight, I honestly think I would have been perfectly happy with my T300 for another 10 years, if I had just upgraded to a loadcell brake. But... life is short and since I no longer race in real life, sim racing is easy to justify the investment.

I assume with new firmware and updates, combined with more and more people sharing their DD+ settings, we'll find sweet spots on the coming weeks or months.


I've never used the V3s so I can't say anything other than what I've seen online. The V3s use a soft foam system, and the V2s use a triple stack of elastomer. The internet seems to imply both load cells are rated for 90kg, (roughly 200lbs of pressure) based on the webpage it looks like the V3s also have an adjustment on the pedal, the red adjustment wheel? Perhaps yours is set in a way that alters the needed brake force?
Maybe I put my V2 together wrong?
But I see countless reddit and fantec forum threads about the stiffness of the V2 brake pedal, so I can't be completely crazy.

I'm not a body builder by any means, but I've raced karts/cars since I was 8 years old, and worked physical jobs the vast majority of my life, was an auto tech for 8 years, construction for plenty, etc. I'm athletic and in decent shape, at 38 years old now. I have no physical limitations, and other than some previously discussed limitations with the flex in my Playseat rig, I'm telling you, at 50% brake force on the wheel setting, I was using my racing seat as a backrest to try and achieve 100% on the in-game measurement, and it felt like I was trying to legpress the full 200lbs with my left foot. I could do it as means of achieving it, but there was no way in hell I could race like that, and reliably get to 100% for 10+ corners a lap without destroying my back, my seat, or my pedal plate at some point.

Here's a video from Boosted Media. If you skip to the 38 minute mark you can see him doing the calibration process, he's running them at 50% and his natural pressure gets him to about 80% braking power.



That's something I'll definitely have to explore, whether trying to reach 100% is actually a hindrance to speed and lap times? I've always tried to get 100% brake power coming into turns, so maybe I'm just doing it wrong, and if 80% is the goal, then obviously tuning brake force to 15-20% so I can hit 100% braking repeatedly every corner is actually just... wrong? I have no clue, trail braking isn't really something I've been able to do previously, but I am trying with the new load cell, and I think my lap times are improving at the high end, but my consistency is still questionable at best. Again, it's only been 4 days, and I had 6 months of no racing between my T300 pedals breaking and my DD+ actually showing up, so I'm probably just driving like rubbish, and need to put in the time and effort to get back in rhythm.

Anyone have the V2 and V3 that can compare the differences purely between brake force required?

I only own the Clubsport V3's using the brake performance elastomers with the hardest setting and further modification to make it harder still. Here's a recent video that may answer your question though. It's insightful. DIGIT RACING V2 Vs. V3's Keep in mind, he's comparing a ClubSport "LITE" V2 pedal system to a full fledged ClubSPort pedal set up. There's also this guys take on the same sets. Random Call Sign V2 Vs. V3 pedals
 
In game only for me. (I've never played with anything outside of the game to be honest)
SuperGT alluded to it and specifically said "do not let go of the wheel" for his settings, so it seems to be consistent.

What I did was used the default settings on the A_S (before I knew how to access the advanced menu) for the entire weekend. Once I saw SuperGT list his settings, I instantly wanted to give them a shot, because he's obviously fast and has plenty of experience.

So I compared his settings to the default, to isolate the differences, and then started toggling them on and off 1 at a time to diagnose which one was causing each specific problem that I disliked.

Damper OFF as he advises, results is oscillating as the wheel won't just rest at center without me holding it still. I turned it on to 20 and theny wheel stays at zero. I slowly just backed it down until I found the lowest setting I could, without the wheel oscillating. I wouldn't be surprised if this was slightly different for every wheel, just for basic manufacturing tolerances, or maybe even in-car in-game differences? Again, I only really race GR3s on GT7, so my scope is admittedly very narrow. In a GR3 car I'm a high A, low A+ driver in GT7. Put me in a street car, and I'm a B at best 😂.

Turning on the INT, made the wheel feels and sound like my QR2 was broken, or something. I did not enjoy that at all. But everything is preference.

Please remember I did NOT update any firmware on my wheel. When it showed up, I plugged it into my PS5 and just started racing. This is my first Direct drive wheel and only 3rd wheel I've had in my life. I went from a very low end, gear driven wheel, the Logitech Driving Force GT. When PS4 came out I upgraded to the Belt Driver Thrustmaster T300, and then after 10 years on that wheel, I finally broke the pedals (wheel was still fantastic), but rather than dropping money on new pedals, I decided to just upgrade again to the DD Pro... but the DD+ was just getting announced, (as well as QR2) so I decided to wait, so I could future proof my investment, knowing that I don't burn through equipment or upgrade often, it was worth paying a bit more.

So full disclosure, my experience and... bar of expectations is probably lower than most. The DD+ is significantly nicer than anything I've had, but I didn't actually have any complaints about my T300 other than noise and some fade after extended play time due to heat I assume.

I probably overpaid for the DD+ given my needs, as I doubt I'm running anywhere near the 15nm it produces, but from an electronic standpoint, in regard to reliability and longevity, I feel more comfortable running the DD+ at ~8Nm than I would running the DD Pro at 100%, knowing I want it to last another 10 years. I believe the headroom of electronics and mechanical parts is very relevant when thinking long term, but that's just my personal opinion and justification.

In hindsight, I honestly think I would have been perfectly happy with my T300 for another 10 years, if I had just upgraded to a loadcell brake. But... life is short and since I no longer race in real life, sim racing is easy to justify the investment.

I assume with new firmware and updates, combined with more and more people sharing their DD+ settings, we'll find sweet spots on the coming weeks or months.


I've never used the V3s so I can't say anything other than what I've seen online. The V3s use a soft foam system, and the V2s use a triple stack of elastomer. The internet seems to imply both load cells are rated for 90kg, (roughly 200lbs of pressure) based on the webpage it looks like the V3s also have an adjustment on the pedal, the red adjustment wheel? Perhaps yours is set in a way that alters the needed brake force?
Maybe I put my V2 together wrong?
But I see countless reddit and fantec forum threads about the stiffness of the V2 brake pedal, so I can't be completely crazy.

I'm not a body builder by any means, but I've raced karts/cars since I was 8 years old, and worked physical jobs the vast majority of my life, was an auto tech for 8 years, construction for plenty, etc. I'm athletic and in decent shape, at 38 years old now. I have no physical limitations, and other than some previously discussed limitations with the flex in my Playseat rig, I'm telling you, at 50% brake force on the wheel setting, I was using my racing seat as a backrest to try and achieve 100% on the in-game measurement, and it felt like I was trying to legpress the full 200lbs with my left foot. I could do it as means of achieving it, but there was no way in hell I could race like that, and reliably get to 100% for 10+ corners a lap without destroying my back, my seat, or my pedal plate at some point.

Here's a video from Boosted Media. If you skip to the 38 minute mark you can see him doing the calibration process, he's running them at 50% and his natural pressure gets him to about 80% braking power.



That's something I'll definitely have to explore, whether trying to reach 100% is actually a hindrance to speed and lap times? I've always tried to get 100% brake power coming into turns, so maybe I'm just doing it wrong, and if 80% is the goal, then obviously tuning brake force to 15-20% so I can hit 100% braking repeatedly every corner is actually just... wrong? I have no clue, trail braking isn't really something I've been able to do previously, but I am trying with the new load cell, and I think my lap times are improving at the high end, but my consistency is still questionable at best. Again, it's only been 4 days, and I had 6 months of no racing between my T300 pedals breaking and my DD+ actually showing up, so I'm probably just driving like rubbish, and need to put in the time and effort to get back in rhythm.

Anyone have the V2 and V3 that can compare the differences purely between brake force required?

OH, I see. I thought we were talking about the Clubsport pedals, which is what I have. Totally different. I previously had the CSL Elites but I had V1 and not the new V2 set. Didn't have the problems described with the V2 in terms of achieving brake pressure. I wonder what Fanatec changed to cause it.
 
Once I saw SuperGT list his settings, I instantly wanted to give them a shot, because he's obviously fast and has plenty of experience
I think you have mistaken forum member @super_gt for the somewhat popular Gran Turismo Youtuber Steve "SuperGT" Brown. It's not the same person.

Edit: I'm not saying @super_gt isn't fast or experienced, but through the years I've only seen him post about sim-racing equipment, mainly of the Fanatec brand.
 
Last edited:
Question, I still haven't found time to do my own setup and I'm currently using the @FMW setup and it's quite good for me, but I've noticed that when I take a corners, every now and then the steering wheel starts to vibrate and if I turn the steering wheel further I get like blows from the opposite side, this thing happened to me with all the setups I tried, with some more, with others less like the one from @super_gt . Now I remember that I also had these types of vibrations on the DD Pro, but they weren't that strong, I don't understand if they are due to the loss of adhesion or it's clipping
 
Last edited:
Question, I still haven't found time to do my own setup and I'm currently using the @FMW setup and it's quite good for me, but I've noticed that when I take a corners, every now and then the steering wheel starts to vibrate and if I turn the steering wheel further I get like blows from the opposite side, this thing happened to me with all the setups I tried, with some more, with others less like the one from @super_gt . Now I remember that I also had these types of vibrations on the DD Pro, but they weren't that strong, I don't understand if they are due to the loss of adhesion or it's clipping
Based on what you're describing, that's the loss of front traction while steering. GT7 has a peculiar way on how it handles loss of front traction. When I feel what you're describing, I will usually brake a little sooner to take the corner with less entry speed. Different wheel setting usually make the loss of front traction feel slightly different.
 
I spent an hour with my DD X wheelbase doing some testing. When I first unboxed it, I did run a firmware update on it. Now I'm feeling some cogging that I think is more pronounced vs when I first noticed it centering the wheel rim.

However, when I'm actually driving I don't feel anything and I'm intentionally looking for it. Instead, I come to find out if, what seems to be me adding lateral motion to the tires (in either direction), or they are being asked to do too much I get this sudden vibration coming from my rig (not clipping, I've felt that before). It's very pronounced. I triple checked that everything is locked down and snug on my wheelbase plate. I do have a slab of wood between the wheelbase and plate to raise it up for my lanky frame, but it was the same arrangement with my Podium wheelbase and no vibrating.

I tried tweaking some settings to mitigate it, but no luck unfortunately. I did buy a spare DD+ so I think tomorrow I'm going to just calibrate it on my PC and hook it up and see if it does the same thing, or if the firmware update did something. Unlikely, but we'll see.

Has anyone else mentioned this issue? Oh, also, I have my motion sim powered on, but not active, so nothing there is causing the vibrations.

Otherwise, my only complaint with the DD X wheel rim is the inner part of the pleather where they come together sticks out a little and rubs the inside of my thumbs. I think I can build up calluses, but just an fyi.

Also, I can't wait for the update to roll out so I can customize these buttons (I don't see the DD X in the GT Menu yet).

If I can just get rid of this vibrating issue, I'd at least be where I left off with the Podium wheelbase and could go up from there when they finish the FFB 2.0 integration.


Jerome
 
Last edited:
FMW
Based on what you're describing, that's the loss of front traction while steering. GT7 has a peculiar way on how it handles loss of front traction. When I feel what you're describing, I will usually brake a little sooner to take the corner with less entry speed. Different wheel setting usually make the loss of front traction feel slightly different.
Ok, thanks, I'll try
 
I spent an hour with my DD X wheelbase doing some testing. When I first unboxed it, I did run a firmware update on it. Now I'm feeling some cogging that I think is more pronounced vs when I first noticed it centering the wheel rim.

However, when I'm actually driving I don't feel anything and I'm intentionally looking for it. Instead, I come to find out if, what seems to be me adding lateral motion to the tires (in either direction), or they are being asked to do too much I get this sudden vibration coming from my rig (not clipping, I've felt that before). It's very pronounced. I triple checked that everything is locked down and snug on my wheelbase plate. I do have a slab of wood between the wheelbase and plate to raise it up for my lanky frame, but it was the same arrangement with my Podium wheelbase and no vibrating.

I tried tweaking some settings to mitigate it, but no luck unfortunately. I did buy a spare DD+ so I think tomorrow I'm going to just calibrate it on my PC and hook it up and see if it does the same thing, or if the firmware update did something. Unlikely, but we'll see.

Has anyone else mentioned this issue? Oh, also, I have my motion sim powered on, but not active, so nothing there is causing the vibrations.

Otherwise, my only complaint with the DD X wheel rim is the inner part of the pleather where they come together sticks out a little and rubs the inside of my thumbs. I think I can build up calluses, but just an fyi.

Also, I can't wait for the update to roll out so I can customize these buttons (I don't see the DD X in the GT Menu yet).

If I can just get rid of this vibrating issue, I'd at least be where I left off with the Podium wheelbase and could go up from there when they finish the FFB 2.0 integration.


Jerome
I’ve felt the vibration as well. I almost thought the wheel was trying to replicate engine hums for a second. Swapped wheels to my 330mm with qr2 and it disappeared. There was mention of the nuts on the gt wheel being barely tight from someone swapping a qr2 on so that will be checked first thing when i get back to play later.
 
I’ve felt the vibration as well. I almost thought the wheel was trying to replicate engine hums for a second. Swapped wheels to my 330mm with qr2 and it disappeared. There was mention of the nuts on the gt wheel being barely tight from someone swapping a qr2 on so that will be checked first thing when i get back to play later.
I'll try on my other wheel rim too.


Jerome
 
After almost a year(may), no matter what i do, the pedal travel is about an inch. Maybe two. Consequently, i keep my brf around 25 which allows me to curl my toes and effectively trail brake etc. ive tried more brf but it makes finding the last 75%_100 more poke and hope than something i’d developed muscle memory for. The play in my pedal is nothing like what the original boosted media review shows, nor any vehicle i’ve driven.(granted no race car experience). Now im wondering if the new batch of v2’s have come out board stiff?
When I got my V2 I could only run then at about 30 on my play seat challenge with the 65/65/65 soft spring. Only once I had them bolted to something that didn't move was I ale to up it.

First I bolted the entire playseat to a piece of board so it would not tip in the center. This improved the braking and allowed be to up to 45 with 65/75/85 soft spring. Once I actually got my beefy rig though, I was able to go 80 with 85/85/85 firm spring. I've since actually lowered it back down to 60 for firmness and I realized I was injuring my ankle with the pressure.

So I would say that what you have sounds about right. You will only get full travel if it is bolted to something serious.
 
So I removed the 3/4in. wood plate and installed my other wheelbase after only calibrating it on PC first. It has the same vibration issue, only worse, I feel that coggy feeling like those two shaft parts I read about are 'doing stuff in there'. I'm thinking this has to do with the firmware update as I never had the issue on the first wheelbase as I did the firmware update right away. So to anyone who is feeling that coggy-ness, try a firmware update(?)

Its what I expected, but I'm a little miffed as I don't want that vibrating at all. I'm surprised @F4H Super GT didn't mention it in his review that it vibrates when the tires are under heavy load. Now, if that is straight telling me I'm taking the tires over the limit and I will undoubtedly lose time when it happens, then thats a great/easy way to help me ride the limit. However, I kind of doubt that is the case. Are there any aliens out there with a DD X that could verify this theory?

And, if anyone knows which setting to use to remove it, I'm all ears and thx in advance!


Jerome
 
Last edited:
This sounds like the understeer vibration in GT7 which is felt all over the cockpit with the CS DD+ and is quite strong and aggressive.
 
Last edited:
So I removed the 3/4in. wood plate and installed my other wheelbase after only calibrating it on PC first. It has the same vibration issue, only worse, I feel that coggy feeling like those two shaft parts I read about are 'doing stuff in there'. I'm thinking this has to do with the firmware update as I never had the issue on the first wheelbase as I did the firmware update right away. So to anyone who is feeling that coggy-ness, try a firmware update(?)

Its what I expected, but I'm a little miffed as I don't want that vibrating at all. I'm surprised @F4H Super GT didn't mention it in his review that it vibrates when the tires are under heavy load. Now, if that is straight telling me I'm taking the tires over the limit and I will undoubtedly lose time when it happens, then thats a great/easy way to help me ride the limit. However, I kind of doubt that is the case. Are there any aliens out there with a DD X that could verify this theory?

And, if anyone knows which setting to use to remove it, I'm all ears and thx in advance!


Jerome
I use int to help it feel more wheelish. There will always be a little brap brap brap. Hopefully pd does some additional work as they prepare Full Force.
 
So I removed the 3/4in. wood plate and installed my other wheelbase after only calibrating it on PC first. It has the same vibration issue, only worse, I feel that coggy feeling like those two shaft parts I read about are 'doing stuff in there'. I'm thinking this has to do with the firmware update as I never had the issue on the first wheelbase as I did the firmware update right away. So to anyone who is feeling that coggy-ness, try a firmware update(?)

Its what I expected, but I'm a little miffed as I don't want that vibrating at all. I'm surprised @F4H Super GT didn't mention it in his review that it vibrates when the tires are under heavy load. Now, if that is straight telling me I'm taking the tires over the limit and I will undoubtedly lose time when it happens, then thats a great/easy way to help me ride the limit. However, I kind of doubt that is the case. Are there any aliens out there with a DD X that could verify this theory?

And, if anyone knows which setting to use to remove it, I'm all ears and thx in advance!


Jerome
That heavy vibration you mentioned could be PDs' Understeer Simulation Signal.
It was the same with the DD Pro.
Hence you have the possibility to smoothen in out by simply raising the INT Value. Just click up step by step until it blends in with the tire load under heavy braking.
This is very personal preference and correlates with the Sensitivity in game Setting in GT7.
The Goal should be to have as much rattle as needed and the lowest possible to not overlay the tire deflection/compression under heavy load or while cornering and turning the Wheel simultaneously.
Give 3/7 Torque / Sensitivity a go Baseside 95% FFB
You'll be surprised how well it all blends together 😉
You will virtually feel the Rubber Tire Deflection building up load and de- compression whilst coming off the brakes. All of that with a subtle rattle indicating the tires' max available grip levels EXACTLY where it should be.
Not too early and distracting but perfectly timed... Trust me 😉
 
Back