FITT Adaptability Challenge. Finished congratulations toTheInfamousJEW6, Ale67 & Lionheart2113.

  • Thread starter Otaliema
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If you build a custom transmission and only adjust the final for top speed, the gear ratios would still work out the same. The tricky bit is, for every part the tester adds or takes away from the tuners build, that might raise or lower the RPM range and possibly torque.
Example....
My Death Valley RX-7 has a speed of 154mph @ 7,500RPM using a Final of 2.500.
If I adjust only the Final to say 3.500, it then becomes a speed of 110mph @ 7,500RPM. The gear ratios stay the same, as well as the RPMs at shift and RPM drop (auto transmission).
If I was to add the cat converter (great part for HP & RPM increase) and adjust the power limiter to get back to 480pp, that would decrease the RPM drop for the lower gears (almost 200RPM) but by the time you get to gears 5 & 6 they get closer (90-100RPM difference) as well as increase the redline from 7,500 to 7,700RPM. So you might have to take a stab at guessing what parts the tester might use to get to the high or low performance points range.
Clear as mud right?:lol:
That's how I read it...

Or did I totally balls that one up?

Edit: I should also mention that I believe the gear ratio min and max range do change when parts are added or taken away. Will have to take a closer look at that...



 
Last edited:
Lionheart2113
If you build a custom transmission and only adjust the final for top speed, the gear ratios would still work out the same. The tricky bit is, for every part the tester adds or takes away from the tuners build, that might raise or lower the RPM range and possibly torque.
Example....
My Death Valley RX-7 has a speed of 154mph @ 7,500RPM using a Final of 2.500.
If I adjust only the Final to say 3.500, it then becomes a speed of 110mph @ 7,500RPM. The gear ratios stay the same, as well as the RPMs at shift and RPM drop (auto transmission).
If I was to add the cat converter (great part for HP & RPM increase) and adjust the power limiter to get back to 480pp, that would decrease the RPM drop for the lower gears (almost 200RPM) but by the time you get to gears 5 & 6 they get closer (90-100RPM difference) as well as increase the redline from 7,500 to 7,700RPM. So you might have to take a stab at guessing what parts the tester might use to get to the high or low performance points range.
Clear as mud right?:lol:
That's how I read it...

Or did I totally balls that one up?

Edit: I should also mention that I believe the gear ratio min and max range do change when parts are added or taken away. Will have to take a closer look at that...


Click to expand...

A lot of thinking :mad:, I would just use stock gearbox :dopey:
 
I have reworded the transmission options in the OP to hopefully clear up any confusion that is existing. Here is the updated transmission information.

The transmission could be an interesting challenge this time around. There are four options.
1: Tune a gear box. In this case the Tester would build per instructions. Than adjust the final to suit the track they picked and the PP they have been assigned.
If you want to tune one here are basic instructions here in the Non-Drag Racing Transmission tuning guide.
2: You can install a adjustable gear box but use ONLY THE TOP SPEED slider.
In this case the tester installs parts to reach the assigned PP and than sets the top speed to the track they have picked. No other changes are allowed.
3; You can install the close ratio gear box that's available. The tester simply resets defaults after installing parts.
4; Use the stock gear box. Like the close ratio gear box, the tester would simply reset defaults after installing parts.
 
To clarify what I see in a logical order, 1. you can use a stock/close ratio transmission, 2. allow the tester to adjust the top speed for his track choice, or 3. you can go through the work to build a custom trans that works for all part options where the tester adjusts the final gear for his track choice.

Here is a more exact version of what I was saying earlier:
Initial final gear: 4.100
Top Speed: 174
First gear: (2.641-3.587) (2.972-4.036)
Second gear: (1.855-2.452) (2.087-2.758)
Third gear: (1.391-1.747) (1.565-1.965)
Fourth gear: (1.093-1.321) (1.229-1.487)
Fifth gear: (0.900-1.048) (1.012-1.179)
Sixth gear: (0.660-0.871) (0.742-0.979)

The available ranges would then be:
First gear: (2.972-3.587)
Second gear: (2.087-2.452)
Third gear: (1.565-1.747)
Fourth gear: (1.229-1.321)
Fifth gear: (1.012-1.048)
Sixth gear: (0.742-0.871)
 
Lets see. I knew this car was fast. But I didn't think 370+ km/h was do able with in the restrictions and track options but it is....
 
@Otaliema, thanks for picking the Premium car 👍

Much nicer to look at during the replays of all the driving I've been doing in it. :D

Here a blurry picture of mine.

image.jpeg
 
coryclifford
@Otaliema, thanks for picking the Premium car 👍

Much nicer to look at during the replays of all the driving I've been doing in it. :D

Here a blurry picture of mine.

View attachment 521173
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That's a good look'in car other than the eye bleeding yellow color.

Ridox2JZGTE
The Efini FD3S loves to drift, it's natural ability :P

View attachment 521181
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That's quite a drift, looks like you're at Willow on the big rounder at the end of the track. Good place to let it all hang out.

I do hope everyone is having fun with this one and finding it an interesting challenge, with the uncertenty of the actual tire and power your car will be driven at.
 
Otaliema
That's a good look'in car other than the eye bleeding yellow color.


That's quite a drift, looks like you're at Willow on the big rounder at the end of the track. Good place to let it all hang out.

I do hope everyone is having fun with this one and finding it an interesting challenge, with the uncertenty of the actual tire and power your car will be driven at.
Click to expand...

That's the 2nd corner, the best place there to test high speed road holding and of course high speed entry drift to exit :D

I'm abusing the car, putting max torque setup with mid turbo on comfort tire and SH tire :lol:

At 526PP, mid turbo, max power parts, lots of limiter, 400+lb ft, on SH, real car weight - close to 1300kg, did 1:18s at Midfield on SH with stock gearbox.
 
@Ridox2JZGTE 👍 keep at it.
I'm getting the thing stable at 300+ km/h it will fall into place after that.
Running 484 ft-lbs of torque on CS tires, man that's tough to keep from spinning.

@DolHaus I'll take your word for that. I can't drift for anything. Miss ya in the challenges sir, if you ever get a new (used) PS3 you're always welcome back.
 
DolHaus
Weird car to drift, its got lovely balance but its hard work to keep it loose and stay on the power band. At first it feels great but the harder you try to push it the more difficult it becomes to manage :crazy:
Click to expand...

A bit more weight at the rear helps a little 48/52 ( Road & Track test data ), and lots of practice, it's hard indeed to maintain long drift, a single mistake usually ends in spin or going opposite direction from over correction :lol:
 
DolHaus
Yeah its much easier with a controller :lol:
Click to expand...
Agreed it is. I can get a slide started but catching it is proving the hard part on the wheel I can't spin it around fast enough and it goes into a un receivable spin.
I think I need to learn a quick ditch turn trick
 
Ridox2JZGTE
Further tweaks on ARB, now i got into 1:17s at Midfield with same power setup 526PP, 480+lb ft, on SH and stock gearbox. This car is really responsive to ARB changes, previously was on soft street setup ARB.
Click to expand...
Nice time. Sounds like your car us coming along well.

Running 1:30's at Trial Mountian on SS right now need to sorta some snap oversteer I've got at speed right now.
 

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